About a year ago, I was at a multi-winery tasting in the Artifex winemaking facility. While I was at the first table sampling a Viognier, a woman of a certain age came up and was offered a pour of the same wine. She replied, with a surly tone of voice, "I'm only tasting red wines," and walked off. Numerous times, I have seen people come up to tasting room counters and skip the whites, going straight to the reds. When is Washington white wine going to get respect?

First of all, it is evident that many consumers have the perception that only Washington reds are to be taken seriously. After all, aren't Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot the "signature" varietals? But that doesn't mean there isn't an important place for Washington whites. Here's a rundown:

Chardonnay - This is the most widely planted variety in the state, so why isn't it more respected? Granted there is a dreary sameness to many Washington Chardonnays, not unlike their California counterparts. I recently had a bottling from a respected Washington producer that was pleasant but lacked much varietal character. To show character, Chardonnay needs to come from cooler sites with distinguishable terroir. Some of the better vineyards and the wineries producing from them are: Conner-Lee (Buty); French Creek (Maison Bleue, Sleight of Hand); Canoe Ridge (Ch. Ste Michelle).

Riesling - This is the second most widely planted variety with many thirty-plus year old vineyards. But I think Riesling suffers from the perception that it is "sweet." Actually the wines range from dry to sweet. The top contenders for world class Riesling are Long Shadows' Poet's Leap and Chateau Ste. Michelle's Eroica, a cooperative venture with Dr. Loosen.

Gewurztraminer - The Columbia Gorge is the best source for this variety. Celilo Vineyard (Dowsett Family) and Jewett Creek (Domaine Pouillon).

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon - There are two distinct styles. "Bordeaux" is generally a combination of about 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Blanc is an elegant example and Cadaretta's SBS is also very fine. The other style is modeled after the Sancerres and Pouilly Fumes of the upper Loire. A top example is Woodward Canyon's Estate Sauvignon Blanc. Varietal Semillons are also made, the L'Ecole No. 41 Fries Vineyard being a notable example.

Other White Varietals - There are respectable whites being made from Pinot Gris (although Oregon is more noted for this variety) and Chenin Blanc (Hestia, Cedergreen, L'Ecole No. 41).

Then there are the white varieties that originate in the Rhone Valley, which are gaining attention, along with the red varieties such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Plantings of Rhone whites are continually increasing, following those of Dick Boushey, the Olsen family and others. Here's a rundown on those.

Viognier - This is the most widely planted "Rhone" variety (sometimes used in small percentages to co-ferment with Syrah for a "Cotie Rotie" style red). Rich and aromatic, the finest examples are those of àMaurice, McCrea Cellars, William Church and Maison Bleue.

Marsanne - The principal grape of Hermitage in the North Rhone, this produces a full-bodied white, with a steely character that lends itself well to Washington State. Again, the Rhone Specialists, McCrea and Maison Bleue are at the forefront.

Roussanne - This is sort of the "exotic" new-wave variety, big, aromatic and sensuous in character. Rhone Rangers McCrea and Maison Bleue are the leaders. DeLille Cellars' Doyenne bottling is also impressive.

Grenache Blanc and Picpoul - These South Rhone varieties were first planted by Dick Boushey, and more are coming into production, including the recently-planted vines, along with the above whites, at Corliss/Tranche's Blue Mountain Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley.

White "Rhone" Blends - There is a bevy of blends of variations of the above varieties, such as DeLille's Metier Blanc, Rotie Cellars Southern White and McCrea's Sirocco Blanc. Others are sure to follow.

In the final analysis, it may be the "Rhone style" whites that will bring Washington whites back into respectability. Washington wine consumers seem to be obsessed with trends and these whites which have links to the trendy Grenache, Mourvedere and other varieties, point the way to a brighter future for Washington whites.