This week, I have a couple of recent tastings to report on.

 

The Sons of Bacchus Rosé Tasting

Last night, July 23rd, the Sons of Bacchus (SOBs for short) convened, along with a Daughter of Dionysus, for a tasting of rosé wines. Wines from all over the world were tasted, including ones from Washington, Oregon, California, Provence, Corsica, and Nothern Italy. Twelve wines were tasted in three flights of four, and then the top wines in each flight in a final four flight. The top wines, with my notes, were:

Fourth Place - 2012 Skylark "Pink Belly' Rosé, Mendocino County - Light salmon color, with scents of Rainier cherry, orange peel, wisteria and delicate flavors with grapeskin extracts. 18.5/20 points.

Third Place - 2012 Seven Hills Winery Rosé - This was an experimental blend of 50% Malbec and 50% Petit Verdot. It showed a pale pink/salmon color and a seductive nose of wild cherry, peach, orange peel and oriental perfumes. The flavors were finely wrought and elegant. This was my second favorite. 19/20 points.

Second Place - 2011 Dom. Comte Abbatucci "Faustine" Ajaccio Rosé, Corsica - This showed a light hued copper color and an ethereal nose of oriental perfumes and jasmine, with delicate pear, peach and cherry flavors. This was my first choice. 19/20 points.

First Place -2012 Renegade Rosé, Columbia Valley - Trey Busch's Rosé of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault came out on top on the overall scoring. Copper hued, it had a floral nose of raspberry, Rainer cherry, orange peel and spices, with well extracted flavors. I ranked this third and scored it 18.5+ points. At $10 a bottle, this was clearly the Best Buy, a steal of a deal.

It was interesting in going through the three flights to see the various hues of rose that were seen ranging from pale copper to nearly crimson, with a range of delicate, complex flavors to deep, uncomplicated flavors. Some Rosés were well extracted (from longer skin contact), but straightforward. An interesting example was a 2010 Alois Lageder Lagrein Rosato from the Italian Alto Adige which had a almost tawny color and highly extracted but uncomplex flavors. It seems that today's Rosé winemaking trend veers toward the pale colored, perfumed, delicately complex style.

Congratulations to Trey Busch for his winning Best Buy Renegade Rosé!

 

Tasting Library Wines from the 1990's at the Seven Hills Winery

A week ago, I was at the Seven Hills tasting room with Casey and Vicky McClellan and Erik McLaughlin to assess the recently released 2011 reds which will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines. After tasting these, I was treated to a tasting of older vintages from the 1990's. The wines came through remarkably well, showing maturity, but without being "over the hill." Here are my notes, tasted from youngest to oldest.

1999 Seven Hills Merlot Reserve, Columbia Valley - Medium garnet colored, this showed a sultry, smoky nose of wild berries, crushed roses, orange peel, dried herbs and violets. The flavors were deep and round, showing only a hint of drying on the long finish. Holding well, and could go two or three more years. Who says Washington Merlot doesn't age well? 19+/20 points.

1998 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard - Deep garnet colored, this offered an intriguing nose of dried berries, tobacco, dried roses and incense. The flavors were mature and dryish, yet holding, with a grainy, cedary texture and considerable elegance, some tannin still remaining. 19/20 points.

1995 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley - This displayed a maturing garnet color and smoldering aromas of dried berries, aged cigar, crushed roses and dried herbs. The wine showed rermarkable fruit for an 18 year old. The strength was also reflected in the residual fruit extracts and long finish. 19+/20 points.

1993 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Oregon (100% Seven Hills Vineyard) - This showed a maturing garnet color and a deep, smoky nose of dried berries and tobacco. The primary fruits were fading out, entering an oxidative phase. There was some complexity still evident, though, which would satisfy those who like well aged wines. 18.5/20 points.

1992 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard - The color showed a medium garnet with slight cloudiness. The mature nose offered dried fruits and orange peel, and dried herbs, with a  bit of bell pepper. Some fruit and acid was still present, though mature. Still holding, but in a fading stage. 18.5/20 points.

1990 Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard - Medium garnet colored, this had a spiritous nose, indicative of aging, where fruit fades, leaving alcohol behind. The other aromas were complex, consisting of cedar, orange peel, pipe tobacco and clove. The flavors were dried, although some acid was present. For the aromatics, it gets 19 points, for flavors, 18, averaging out to 18.5/20 points.

Overall, this was a remarkable tasting that shows how well Walla Walla Valley wines can age. While some obviously were past their peaks, none were clearly "gone." Thanks, Casey, Vicky and Erik for this wonderful opportunity.

 

Next Week: The August Issue of the Review of Washington Wines will be on line, July 31st. It will include a vsiit to Prosser, recent releases, 2012 whites and four Highly Recommended 19.5 points wines. The Review Blog will report on recent winery news.