Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend Preview

Next weekend, May 2-4 is Spring Release Weekend, the Walla Walla Valley's biggest wine event of the year. Many wineries will be pouring new releases. For suggested wineries to visit, check the March, April and May issues of the Review of Washington Wines. In addition, I recommend three other wineries that will be reviewed in June: Gramercy Cellars (new whites, a rosé and two reds), El Corazon (some knockout reds) and Rotie Cellars (Northern and Southern Red and the new 2013 Southern White).

There are some new tasting rooms in Downtown Walla Walla to visit: Tre Nova (Gino Cuneo, whose wines have been reviewed in the March issue), Precept Brands, representing Browne Family, Cavatappi, Ross Andrew and Waitsburg Cellars (Paul Gregutt's wines which are made at Precept), Mansion Creek (Julia Russell), Su Lei Cellars (Tanya Woodley and Elaine Jomwe), and Gallery Two Zero Two (202 East Main) representing Ardor Cellars (Brandon Kubrock) and Aryn Morell's wine portfolio (Alleromb, Tenor, Matthews Cellars and others). This year's Spring Release Weekend witll be bigger and better than ever.

Our First 20/20 Points White Wines

The May issue of the Review of Washington Wines has two firsts - the first two white wines scoring 20 out of 20 points. Hitherto, all 20 points wines have been reds. They are the 2013 àMaurice Cellars "Sparrow" Estate Viognier and the 2012 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Queen's Road" White from the In the Rocks Vineyard. Both are compelling wines that meet the U.C. Davis 20 Point System criteria for 20 points, flawless and balanced wines, including 4 points for "Wines of 'noble' quality, with distinct and distinguishing character."

Does this signal a new direction toward higher quality Washington whites? Well, yes and no. There are outstanding white wines already being made in Washington State, so this is not something really new. There are already a goodly number of exceptional 19 points Chardonnays from the Conner Lee (Guardian Cellars, Bookwalter, Buty), French Creek (Maison Bleue, Sleight of Hand) and Celilo (Tranche) vineyards. The Dowsett Family Cellars' 2012 Gewurztraminer from the Celilo Vineyard scored a highly impressive 19.5/20 points (August, 2013). Abeja and Mark Ryan have excelled with Viognier, and Chateau Ste. Michelle's Eroica and Long Shadows Poet's Leap are outstanding old vine Rieslings. Maison Bleue and Rotie Cellars have been making extraordinary Rhone-style whites from Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. Stellar Sauvignon Blancs have been made by Efesté and Tenor. On the other hand, there seems to be more serious interest in white wines from the winemaker and consumer standpoints. Two wineries, Array and Ashan are dedicated to making outstanding Chadonnays. See the March 2013 issue for reviews of Array's Charodnnays. I have samples on order of the Ashan Chardonnays (made by Chris Gorman), and the wines will be reviewed in a future issue. Another winery which has stirred considerable anticipation is Charles Smith in Walla Walla which hired Brennon Leighton from Efesté to make white wines at the former Whitman Cellars facility. Given Brennon's talents, the wines are expected to be stunning. Jason Fox's Lagana Cellars is also focusing on whites and his 2013 Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc (to be reviewed in June) mark an auspicious debut for a young winemaker. All this suggests that there is, indeed, a new direction for Washington whites, one that is more focused and dedicated to high quality. More later!