Grenache - The Next Salmon Wine?

All of you, I am sure, are aware that Pinot Noir has been touted as the red wine to have with salmon. But I have found that this combination works with only a few Pinots, especially those from Oregon. Many have turned out to be too dull to stand up to the richness of salmon.

Recently, I have heard some makers of Washington Grenache (the first to do so was Jon Martinez of Maison Bleue) advocate that varietal as an alternative to Pinot Noir. I have been told (by Sean Boyd of Rotie Cellars) that Grenache has a medium-bodied flavor profile that is similar to Pinot Noir, but in a different way: Grenache has more aromatics and better fruit-acid structure. So I have tried pairing Grenache with salmon several times and found it to work very well. I have tested the following Grenaches successfully:

2007 Isenhower Cellars "Rara Avis," Columbia Valley (reviewed in the November issue)

2008 Maison Bleue "La Montagnette," Horse Heaven Hills, Alder Ridge Vineyard (to be reviewed in March)

2008 Maison Bleue "Le Midi," Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard (ditto)

2008 Rotie Cellars Southern Blend, Columbia Valley  - 70% Grenache, 15% each of Syrah and Mourvedre (to be reviewed in March)

At this time of year, most wild salmon - King and Sockeye - is frozen. And Atlantic salmon is too bland. But I have found fresh farm raised Steelhead (a salmon-like trout) to be quite good. The fat content (the "good" Omega fats) is high since the fish are raised seasonally in cold waters. It is by far to be preferred to Atlantic or frozen fish. I have tried Steelhead with Grenache and found it to work beautifully. Also, when this year's catch of Kings and Sockeyes come on to the market, be sure to try them with Grenache.

Some Real Deals on Washington Wines

In my Blog of January 11th, I wrote about how wines were being offered at "Fire Sale" price reductions of up to 50 percent or more, and how many of them were flawed or unbalanced. I received Esquin's February newletter last week and tried these three wines which are real bargains.

2008 L'Ecole No. 41 Semillon, Columbia Valley ($11.99 - Regular $16)

L'Ecole makes one of the best Semillons in the state. This one yields rich pear and fig aromas with a waxy fruit texture that is counterpointed by citrus undertones, all gliding into a rich, leesy, honeyed yet dry finish. 18/20 points.

2005 O S Winery "M," Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard ($16.99 - Regular $30)

This 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon combo offers a rich, smoky black cherry and black currant nose with loamy earth smells. The dark fruit flavors are mouth encompassing, imbued with a chewy texture, Red Mountain minerals, licorice, milk chocolate and spices, all gliding into a long finish that shows tones of dried fruits. 18.5/20 points.

2006 Zero One "The Wild Sky" Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($23.99 - Regular $30)

Sourced from the Spofford Station Vineyard southwest of Walla Walla, this Cabernet delivers a rich wild berry and cherry nose, with scents of tobacco and rubbed sage. The rich berry fruit follows through on the palate along with a backdrop of licorice, chocolate, earth and graphite tones, and finishes off with ripe tannins and a vanilla bean note. 18.5/20 points.