A couple of days ago, Lynn and I returned from a trip through Upstate New York. During this trip, we spent a day, on September 15, from Ithaca to the Finger Lakes to stop af a few wineries in that American Viticultural Area (AVA). Our itinerary was based on recommendations from Sabrina Lueck of the Walla Walla Community College Enology an Viticulture program. She is a graduate of Cornell University, where she developed her interest in winemaking through courses there.

Up until the 1960's and 1970's, most New York wines were produced from native (labrusca, such as Concord) or hybrid (such as Cayuga abd Vignobles) varieties. It was believed that only native and hybrid grapes could survive the bitter winters of the region. But in the early 'sixties, Dr. Konstatin Frank proved that vinifera grapes would be sucessfully grown in the Finger Lakes. Now many wineries produce vinifera varieties as well as hybrids.

Our first stop was at Fox Run Vineyards (established 1990) near the northwest end of Seneca Lake. The winemaker Peter Bell, taught enology classes at Cornell, and Sabrina was one of his students. The winery is situated on a slope and is surrounded by vineyards. After our tasting, we walked over to the winery to talk with Peter Bell. Here are the most noteworhy wines tasted.

2014 Fox Run Dry Riesling ($18) - Light gold colored, this showed a steely nose of apple, pear, peach and wildflowers and crisp, spice and lemon zest accented flavors. 18/20 points.

2014 Fox Run Silvan Riesling ($25) - This wine was fermented in oak barrel, adding an intriguing element. Light gold colored, it offered ripe aromas of apple, peach and vanilla, with a silky mouth texture, counterpointed by a steely dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2013 Fox Run Cabernet Franc ($20) - Medium ruby colored, this wine showed a smoky, berried nose, with scents of tobacco and cedar. The medium bodied flavors were pleasingly supple, with touches of dried fruits and ripe tannins. 18+/20 points.

2012 Fox Run Reserve Cabernet Franc ($45) - This wine exhibited a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberry, cherry and plum, and well structured true varietal flavors. The back picked up notes of roasted berries and nuts on the ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2011 Fox Run Dry Riesling ($30) - This showed a brilliant gold color and a rich, floral nose of pear, peach and minerals, along with mouth filling, well structured flavors, followed by a fine tuned back, accented by spices and semi dried fuits on the medium dry (2.2% residual sugar.) 19/20 points.

After Fox Run, we drove back southwest to Penn Yan down to Keuka Spring Vineyards at the north end of Leuka Lake. The winemaker, August Dimel, was a fellow student at Cornell, and noted that Sabrina liked taking graduate level courses. The winery produces a wide range of hybrid and vinifera wines.

2012 Keuka Spring Humphreys Riesling ($22) - This offered a light gold color and a floral nose pf pear, peach and anise. The flavors showed good varietal chaacter and expract, accented by notes of spices, minerals and butternut on nearlu dry finish. 18+/20 points.

2014 Keuka Spring "Dynamite" Gewürztraminer ($22) - This was a fine rendition of this grape. It showed a medium gold color and a floral, spicey nose with scents of litchi nuts. The flavors were medium bodied with a lingering, slightly nutted dry finish. 18+/20 points.

2014 Keuka Spring Cabernet Franc ($19) - This was a tasty young Cab Franc. It showed a medium crimson color and a ripe nose of raspberry and cherry, with a hint of smoke. The medium bodied flavors were pleasingly grapy, with a slighty nutted finish. 18/20 points.

2014 Keuka Spring Miller's Cove Red ($22) - This Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend offered a deep purplish color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry and plum, with nice, juicy, direct flavors with a hint of minerality. 18/20 points.

Then we drove south along the east shore of Keuka Lake to Ravines Wine Cellars, which Sabrina described as "being a cut above the rest." We found it worth stopping by.

2012 Ravines Dry Riesling ($18) - This showed a medium gold color and a floral, spicy nose of pear, peach and apricot, with bright, racy yet textured, dry flavors, with a touch of orange peel. 18+/20 points.

2012 Ravines Pinot Noir ($25) - This resembled a cool climate Pinot such as a Bourgogne Hautes Cotes. It showed a light brick color and engaging aromas of cherries and plums, and pleasant, direct flavors of cola, earth and spices. 18/20 points.

2012 Ravines Dry Riesling, Argetsinger Vineyard ($30) - From one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the Finger Lakes and barrel aged, this displayed a greenish gold color and intriguing aromas of apple, pear, peach, wet stone, clover and spice. The flavors were intense and well defined, marked by chalky limestone minerality and racy acidity, tempered by a ripe pure fruit finsh. 19/20 points.

Our last stop was at Dr. Konstantin Frank, just northwest of Hammondsport. The winery overlooks a spectacular view of Keuka Lake. Dr. Frank was legendary for introducing vinifera wine growing in New York. Today, the winry is run ny Dr. Frank's grandson, Fred Frank and grandaughter Barbara Frank.

2009 Dr. Konstatin Frank Brut Rosé ($35) - This sparking wine displayed a nice pink color, fine bubbles and vivid strawberry and peach flavors that led into a lively, lingering true brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

2013 Dr. Konstatin Frank Rkatsiteli ($15) - From the oldest grape known to man (3000 BC in what is now Georgia), this wine offered a brilliant gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, anise and bark, with bright, well delineated flavors and a crisp, faintly honeyed finish. 18/20 points.

2013 Dr. Konstatin Frank Grüner Veltliner ($15) - Pale gold colored, this showed intriguing aromas of grapefruit, wildflowers, lemongrass and anise, and medium bodied flavors that showed a hint of kiwi. 18/20 points.

2013 Dr. Konstatin Frank Riesling Reserve ($25) - This offered attractive aromas of pear, peach and citrus, with scents of orange blossoms and wet stone. The flavors were fresh and racy, with a lingering faintly honeyed finish. 18.5/20 points.