Which grape varieites grown in Washington are trendy and which ones aren't? Here's my guide to them. I have indicated their directional positions using the face a clock. Twelve or one o'clock indicates a very trendy grape, Two o'clock is moderately so. Three o'clock is neutral and four or five o'clock means declining popularity. Here's my rundown:

White Varieties

Chardonnay - Three o'clock. The state's most widely planted variety is neither trendy nor declining in popularity. There are some highly impressive Chardonnays from specialists such as Array and Ashan, though.

Vioginier - Four o'clock. The trend for this grape has past its peak due to proliferation and quality variability. Some, suck as àMaurice and Reynvaan do continue to impress.

Riesling- Four o'clock. This is an underated variety and continues to be so. Most fans prefer the sweeter versions. But there are some fine Alsace-style dry ones. I recently tasted a superb version from Chris Dowsett (to be reviewed in December).

Sauvignon Blanc - Four o'clock - This variety produces fine dry wines, but tend to be eclipsed by the more prestigious Chardonnay grape.

Semillon - Four o'clock - Like Sauvignon Blanc, there are some noteworthy wines, but generally low profile.

Gewurztraminer - Three o'clock. This is another low profile grape that doesn't stant out. But for cognoscenti, some specialists such as Dowsett and Annalema turn out attention-getting wines.

Chenin Blanc - Three o'clock. - This variety remains in neutral, although L'Ecole No. 41 and Waitsburg Cellars make some fine ones, and excellent value.

Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul - Two o'clock. These are too recent to be really trendy, but there is growing interest in varieties originating in the Rhone Valley

Red "BDX" Varieties

Cabernet Sauvignon - One o'clock. Cabernet Sauvignon is still considered the "king" of red wines. The best ones continue to burnish that variety's reputation. There are, however, a lot of mediocre commercial ones.

Merlot - Three o'clock. This variety was highly trendy two decades ago, but now remains in neutral, taking a back seat to Cabernet Sauvignon. There are wineries making very fine Merlots, but few are staking their reputations on it.

Cabernet Franc - Two o'clock. This is somewhat trendy, but not catching on fire.

Petit Verdot - Two o'clock. This has been billed at a Bordeaux variety and often put in "BDX" blends. But hardly any Petit Verdot is grown in Bordeaux, but the grape does grow well in Washington State.

Malbec - Two o'clock. This, too has often beem represented as a "Bordeaux" grape, although little is grown there. It is grown principally in Cahor, in France's Lot Valley. There are some Malbec specialists such as Ashley Trout and Anna Schafer (àMaurce) to make it a noteworthy grape.

Red Rhone Varieties

Syrah - Two o'clock. This is considered the "king" of Rhone varietals, not as much so as Cabernet Sauvignon, but enough to make it trendy. The cult Syrahs from Cayuse, No Girls and Reynvaan are on waiting lists and register at twelve o'clock.

Grenache - Two o'clock. This is somewhat trendy, mainly as a niche medium bodied wine. The cult versions - Cayuse God only Knows, No Girls, K Vintners "The Boy." register one o'clock.

Mourvèdre - Two thirty o'clock. This seems to be just semi-trendy, not as exciting as Syrah or Grenache, but, from some wineires, well regarded. Used more in "GSM" blends than as a varietal.

Cinsault, Counoise - Three o'clock. These two Rhone varietal are so low profile, that they are in neutral. There are some interesting versions.

Petite Sirah - Two o'clock. This isn't either a Rhone variety or a Syrah, but Duriff, originating in South France. But it grows well in Washington and makes interesting robust wines, such as those from Thurston Wolfe and Dusted Valley.

Other Varieties

Pinot Noir - Three o'clock. Oregon's Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs are eclipsing those from elsewhere. But there are some fine ones from the Columbia Gorge and some small pockets of the Walla Walla Valley.

Sangiovese - Three o'clock. Tuscany's premier grape, is more of a niche variety here. Mostly medium bodied wines, without great popularity. There are some nice ones, though.

Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera - Three o'clock. Not much of these Piedmont varieties are grown in Washington State, so there is not enough to indicate a trend.

Tempranillo - Two thirty o'clock. Spain's premier grape has made limited impact in Washington State, so just semi-trendy. Gramercy Cellars, Kerloo Cellars and Salida (Doug McCrea) make some noteworthy ones.