The Limited Production Washington Varietals

 

A few days ago, I was looking at the U.S. Department of Agriculture 2009 Washington State wine grape production figures, and was struck by how limited the production of red varietals other than Cabernet Sauvignon (27,600 tons) Merlot (24,800 tons) and Syrah (10,000 tons). Cabernet Franc comes in fourth at 2,600 tons, followed by Malbec at 1,000 tons and Sangiovese at 900 tons. All the rest are under 500 tons each.

 

So I thought I'd give you a rundown on those varietals producing 1,000 tons or less, and what they represent, including those wineries that specialize in them.

 

Malbec - This varietal originated in France. A small amount is grown in Bordeaux, but it is Cahors in the Lot Valley that produces most of France's Malbec. A large amount is produced in Argentina. Washington Malbec is typically aromatic and dark fruited (ranging from red to blue to black). The best areas for growing Malbec in Washington are the Wahluke Slope, the Horse Heaven Hills and the southern part of the Walla Walla Valley. Specialists: Flying Trout, aMaurice (Ashley Trout and Anna Schafer b oth spend part of the year in Argentina making wine there) Beresan and El Corazon.

 

Sangiovese - This is the principal grape of Tuscany, and is used to make Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino (Sangiovese Grosso). Washington winemakers like to call it "Sangio" and use it to make gracefully-styled, aromatic, medium-bodied wines. Some is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon for "Super Tuscan" style wines. Specialists: Walla Walla Vintners (varietal and "Bello Rosso" Sangiovese-Cabernet blend) Columbia Winery (Red Willow Vineyard) Flying Trout.

 

Petit Verdot - This varietal is generally used for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc both in Bordeaux and the U.S. to add aroma and texture. Petit Verdot requires warm growing sites in order to yield ripe grapes. Little is produced as a varietal wine. When done so in Washington, the result is a highly aromatic, fleshy wine with much flavor interest. Specialists: Januik Winery, Seven Hills Winery (McClellan Estate) Five Star Cellars (Petit Verdot/Cabernet Franc blend) and Saviah Cellars.

 

Grenache - Principally used for blending with Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault in the South Rhone Valley, Grenache generally produces well-textured, ripe, medium-bodied wines. In Washington, it is usually used for "Rhone style" blends such as Rotie Cellars' "Southern Blend." Only a few wineries make it as a varietal. Specialists: Maison Bleue ("La Montagnette," "Le Midi") Isenhower Cellars ("Rara Avis").

 

Barbera - Originating in the Pedmont region of Italy, this grape produces robust, cherry-like reds. In the early days of California and Washington winemaking much Barbera was planted by Italian-Americans. Now only limited plantings exist in Washington state, but they make tasty pasta wines. Specialists: CAVU Cellars, Forgeron, Woodward Canyon (this winery also makes a juicy, robust Dolcetto from an even more limited production varietal).

 

Tempranillo - This is the principal grape of Spain, grown in the Rioja and Ribera del Duero districts, producing elegant, aromatic medium to full bodied reds. It is used to a similar effect in limited quantities in Washington. Specialists: Castillo de Feliciana, Thurston-Wolfe, Gramercy Cellars. Waterbrook makes a fine one that is only available at the Walla Walla Wine Works tasting room on Main Street.

 

Carmenere - This is the "lost" grape of Bordeaux, wiped out by the Phyloxera devastation of the 1870's and not replanted. Much is grown in Chile today and in small quantities in Washington state. Typically is a robust, aromatic, "peppery" wine that has possess much elegance. Specialists: El Corazon ("Tiger's Blood") Beresan, Otis Kenyon, Tertulia Cellars, Reininger.

 

Petite Sirah - This is called Durif in France and is considered a common varietal there. A fair amount is planted in California and only a small quantity in Washington where it produces a robust, dark, berry-like and somewhat peppery wines. Specialists: Thurston-Wolfe (Zephyr Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills) and Bunnell Family Cellar (varietal, and in blends) Milbrandt (Wahluke Slope).

 

Roussanne - There is one limited production white varietal worth noting, and that is Roussanne which originates in the north Rhone Valley. It is an aromatic white, but less floral and tropical than Viognier. There are some fine examples produced in Washington. Specialists: SuLei, Maison Bleue, Forgeron Cellars.