Last night, October 17, Lynn and I attended the Whitehouse Crawford Restaurant's Walla Walla Chef and Artisan Dinner. Last August, we attended a similar dinner which presented courses prepared by outstanding chefs using local artisan products (see the 16 August blog posting below). Again, I took on the job of matching wines to the menu. Here's what we, and the Milton-Freewater contingent accompanying us - the Roskelleys, Browns, Capps and Kennedys - had for the dinner.
Hors d'oeuvres for reception - Anchovy and almond crostini and heirloom tomato tartare toasts, prepared by Daisley Gordon, Café Campagne and Jason Wilson, E'ritage Resort.
2016 Gramercy Cellars Picpoul (Whitehouse Crawford welcome wine)
Champagne Michel Maillard Brut, "Cuvée Gregory" Brut
These wines made perfect foils to the savory appetizers, especially the ultra precise Champagne.
First Course - Winter luxury pumpkin soup with chanterelle mushrooms by Jamie Guerin of Whitehouse Crawford.
2012 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu, "Les Chaillées de L'Enfer"
Cultivating Viognier vines on the steep slopes of Condrieu, is a hellish job. This one, aged in oak (unusual for Condrieu) matched the savory soup. Autumn in the glass and in the bowl.
Second Course - Halibut quenelle in Dungeness crab velouté, by Daisley Gordon
2014 Domaine Duc de Magenta Chassage-Montrachet, 1er Cru Morgeot, Monopole Clos de la Chapelle
2012 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru
Quenelles are composed of seived fish thickened with white sauce, and then poached. This was an exquisite dish, accompanied by elegant white Burgundies (Chardonnay). The Morgeot was steely and laser-like, with notes of toast and hazelnut. The Criots-Bâtard-Montachet (from a small Grand Cru parcel in Chassagne) was superb, complex and penetrating.
Third Course - Roasted lamb saddle, spiced sausage and braised shanks, by Jason Wilson
2012 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Lavaux-St. Jacques
2013 Domaine Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin, Grand Cru
2011 Domaine Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin, Grand Cru
I decided that the lamb and spiced sausage called for full-bodied red Burgundies such as those of Gevrey-Chambertin, near the north end of the Côte de Nuits. This trio matched the course beautifully. The Lavaux-St. Jacques was big and muscular, the Chapelle-Chamberlin, extremely elegant and complex, the epitome of Pinot Noir, and the Latricières-Chambertin, rich and velvety, yet admirably structured.
Dessert - Bourbon-vanilla rice pudding with poached quince, walnuts and quince sorbet, Tina Meyer, Whitehouse Crawford
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series Madeira, "Savannah" Verdelho Special Reserve
In the days of George Washington, Madeira (produced on the Portuguese island of Madeira) was popular in America. And rice pudding was a favorite dessert of that time. So this pairing was made to order. Verdelho is a slightly sweet dessert wine which matched it beautifully with the creamy texture of the rice and the tang of the quince.