Over the past couple of weeks, we have been drinking more Beaujolais. Why? Because the wines are very enjoyable and represent outstanding value.
The production of Beaujolais wines is located north of Lyon in the Saône River Valley in Southern Burgundy. The principal grape is Gamay, which was widely grown in Burgundy during the Middle Ages. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, issued an edict banning the cultivation of Gamay in the Côte d'Or which he believed to be inferior to Pinot Noir. This pushed the production of Gamay further south in the region now known as the Beaujolais.
Despite the Duke's opinions, Beaujolais remained popular. Much was shipped to England and Beaujolais became a staple beverage in Parisian bistros. The wines are typically generous and finely fruited, yet elegant. The best wines come from the "Crus."named after the villages where they are produced:
Fullest-Bodied - Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent
Medium Bodied - Fleurie, Côte de Brouilly, Saint-Amour
Lightest-Bodied - Regnié, Brouilly, Chiroubles
The soils of the Crus, are typically granitic, which contributes to the intensity of the wines, with interspersed clay and gravel. For more, see the Beaujolais AOC article in Wikipedia.
Recent Vintages
2018 - An excellent vintage, a bit lighter than 2017, but with considerable depth and fruit.
2017 - An exceptional year. Ideal harvesting conditions, resulted in wines of much depth and strength.
2016 - A less than stellar year. The wines are pleasant but without the depth and complexity of the 2017s and 2015s.
2015 - The vignerons in Beaujolais claim this is their greatest vintage since 1945. The best wines have much power and complexity.
Here are my notes on Crus Beaujolais we have tasted recently.
2018 Jean-Marc Bourgaud Morgon, Côte du Py ($27.99 - wine.com) - This wine possesses a deep ruby-crimson color and an intense, perfumed nose of wild raspberries, black cherries, black currants, crushed rose petals, sweet tobacco, lilac and wood smoke. The flavors are vigorous and mouth-filling, with notes of licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals macerated berries, roasted nuts, and framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a ripe tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+20 points.
2018 Domaine Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly, Vieilles Vignes ($28.99 - wine.com) - Purple-crimson colored, this wine emits ripe aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, bayberry, lilac, anise and incense. The flavors are deliciously juicy yet well defined, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and pink granite. The back picks up kirsch and cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and pencil shavings, followed by a pleasing finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly ($29.99 - wine.com) - From a higher elevation site above Brouilly, this shows a ruby-crimson color and a seductive nose of fraises de bois, raspberries, currants, rose petals, sweet tobacco, lilac, anise and white incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with medium bodied but vigorous red fruits that are imbued with licorice, Swiss chocolate, chamomile tea and schist minerals. On the back, the wine turns elegant with sensations of framboise, fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and pencil lead, followed by a satiny tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Domaine de Marrans Morgon "Corcelette" ($23.99 - wine.com) - Deep purplish colored, this possesses lovely aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, bayberry, violets and incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with vivid red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs and a bit of spritz (from carbonic maceration) followed by a pleasingly juicy finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.
Below are some recommended Crus Beaujolais that have been previously reviewed and which are still available.
2017 Yohan Lardy Fleurie, "Le Vivier" ($24 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This lovely wine possesses lovely, perfumed aromas of strawberries and currants, with alluring supple red fruits and hillside minerals. The finish is long and velvety. Reviewed 7 January. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Yohan Lardy Chénas, "Les Deschamps" ($25 - The Thief) - This one offers enticing aromas of wild fruits, lilac and white incense. The flavors are pure Gamay, with notes of licorice, cocoa and pink granite.], followed by a pleasingly juicy creme de cassis infused finish. Reviewed 7 January. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas, "Tradition" ($21.99 - wine.com) - This is medium-bodied but substantial and focused, with wild fruit aromas and generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and high elevation minerals. The back picks up toasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a satisfying finish. Reviewed 2 December. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Daniel Boiuland Chiroubles "Chatnay" ($37 - The Thief) - This is relatively pricey for a Cru Beaujolais (most are under $30) but is worth it. It features a purplish color and lovely aromas of wild fruits, crushed roses, violets and incense. The flavors are velvety and generous yet well structured, with notes of licorice, cocoa and minerals, followed by a lingering a creme de cassis and toast finish. Reviewed 24 October. 19/20 points.
While on the subject of Beaujolais, we should take note of the passing of the French wine shipper Georges Duboeuf a few weeks ago. He was largely responsible for the increased popularity of Beaujolais in the 1980's with his flower label wines. He also pioneered the export of estate grown Cru Beaujolais. I met him once in Seattle at a promotional tasting of his wines. He was quite personable. As a tribute, we recently had the following wine, one of the Domaine wines.
2015 Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-à-Vent - This vintage is sold out (the 2017 is the current vintage at wine.com). The 2015 shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberries, currants, plums and a hint of fig, with scents of semi dried roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and whiffs of spiced incense. The flavors are simultaneously velvety and muscular, marked by licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine is rounding out beautifully with notes of roasted berries and nuts, mocha, toffee, coffee grounds and graphite, followed by a lingering smooth tannin finish. 19/20 points.