Growing White Grapes in the Walla Walla Valley

Details

A few days ago, I ran across an article by Sean Sullivan in the Wine Enthusiast (Sean reviews Washington wines for that publication) titled "A White Wine Revolution is Underway in Washington's Reddest Appellation." It points out that 95% of the grapes grown in the Walla Walla Valley AVA are red. The fact that only 5% of the production is white is largely a matter of economics with red grapes commanding much higher prices. But there is growing interest in white grapes in an area dominated by red. The article includes interviews with Marty Clubb (L'Ecole No.41), Chris Figgins (Leonetti) and Tim Donohoe (College Cellars) and indicates that white grapes are now being taken more seriously. To see the article, go to www.wawinereport.com for a link. 

This article brought to my mind having seen new vines being planted at Tranche Estate's Blue Mountain Vineyard in 2011. I asked what varieties were being planted and was told they were Rhone white varieties: Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul. Today, grapes from these vines are components of Tranche's Pape Blanc Rhone-style white wine. 

There are other instances of newer planting of Rhone white grapes. When Sean and Conor Boyd planted the Rotie Rocks Estate Vineyard, the varieties included Viognier, Roussanne and Viognier which go into the Southern White Blend. Saviah Cellars has a Viognier from the winery's estate vineyard in The Rocks.

But what about other white varieties? It used to be believed that the Walla Walla Valley was too warm for Chardonnay and Riesling, both cool climate varieties. But when Justin Wylie planted the Eritage Vineyard north of Walla Walla, he picked out a high elevation site for Chardonnay and Leonetti has a parcel of Riesling on the estate vineyard. Also, the Aluvé winery has planted Chardonnay at the Menozzi Vineyard, whose proximity to the Blue Mountains make it suitable for that variety. The "White Bordeaux" varieties, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon do well at the Seven Hills Vineyard in the South Valley. 

So there are the resources for the emergence of high quality white wines in the Walla Walla Valley as well as reds. Here are some noteworthy examples. 

2018 L'Ecole No 41 "Luminesce" White Wine, Estate Seven Hills Vineyard ($21) - This 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon blend offers fresh aromas and combines the crispness of the Sauvignon with the creamy texture of the Semillon. Reviewed December 2019. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Queen's Road" White Wine ($65) - This is an outstanding 65% Viognier, 35% Marsanne from "The Rocks." It display a cornucopia of semi-tropical fruits and exquisite balance. Reviewed December 2019. 19.5/20 points.

2019 Rôtie Cellars Northern Southern White Blend ($32) - This blend of 65% Viognier, 20% Roussanne and 15% Marsanne has lovely aromatics and fresh, vibrant flavors. A full review to be in the April issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 19/20 points.

2018 College Cellars Chardonnay, Eritage Vineyard ($20) -This bargain priced Chardonnay is attractively styled and true to variety. To be reviewed in April. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Aluvé Chardonnay, Menozzi Vineyard ($35) - The proximity to the Blues make this a good site for Chardonnay. Lovely aromas and exquisite flavors. Reviewed October 2019. 19/20 points.

2018 àMaurice Cellars "Sparrow" Estate Viognier ($38) - This is a striking Condrieu-like Viognier which shows great precision and balance. Reviewed October 2019. 19+/20 points.

2018 Saviah Cellars Estate Viognier ($30) - Whole cluster pressed and aged in a concrete egg, this has viscous yet well balanced flavors. Reviewed October, 2019. 19/20 points.