An Update on Nicholas Cole Cellars

Back in March of 2009, I did a Focus write-up on Nicholas Cole Cellars. I found owner-winemaker Mike Neuffer's Estate wines to be highly impressive, rating them 19+ points. Recently, I revisited these wines at the Nicholas Cole tasting room in Walla Walla with General Manager Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz. The ratings remain the same, but the prices have been reduced considerably in the light of today's wine market. As such, these wines now represent exceptional value for their high quality levels.

My notes (August 16, 2010) in order of tasting:

2005 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Camille," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($35)

This blend of 45% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cab Franc and 1% Petit Verdot offers a smoky, exotic raspberry, boysenberry and cassis nose with scents of dried roses and tobacco. The chewy, textured flavors show a dried fruit character, with tones of licorice and mocha that lead into a ripe, chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. (Not reviewed 3/2009 - new addition).

2006 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Juliet," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($34)

This 53% Sangiovese, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cab Franc blend, with dashes of Merlot and Petit Verdot, exhibits a rich berry nose with scents of tobacco, sandalwood and clove. The flavors are medium-bodied, but show a classy character, with lovely supple fruits that lead on to a long, complex pomegranate and orange peel finish. 19/20 points.

2005 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Michele," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($38)

A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this is a head-turner. It emits an exotic bouquet of raspberry, cassis, sandalwood, crushed roses, oriental perfumes and cigar box. Finely-fruited and focused, it displays an exoticism that continues through the back, laced with orange peel, silty minerals, mocha and licorice, supported by chewy tannins and fine acidity on the lingering finish. 19.5/20 points.

2006 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Dauphine" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Estate ($36)

Deep purplish colored, this wine offers a sensuous blackberry and cassis nose with whiffs of lavender, incense, spice and pepper. On the palate, the flavors are lush and chewy, yet well-focused - the essence of Syrah. A juicy back is accompanied by licorice, coffee grounds, chocolate, semi-dried fruits and silty earth minerals, followed by a seductive lingering, lightly spiced finish. 19/20 points.

2005 Nicholas Cole Estate Reserve, Walla Walla Valley ($75)

This blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot is a stunning wine. It shows an exotic, intoxicating nose of wild semi-dried berries, with scents of lavender, rose petals and oriental perfumes. The flavors are deliciously silky, yet well-defined, flowing seamlessly through a ripe, berried backdrop, marked by nuts, silt earth and vanilla bean. The oak is subtle, never obvious, even though 100% new Taransaud barrels, and is accompanied by spices, orange peel, toffee and pomegranate on a long, fine-grained tannin finish. 19.5+/20 points.

A Subscriber Comment on Last Week's Blog, "Is Walla Walla going to be the next Napa?"

A few days ago, I received this email from Rick Johnson, owner of Walla Faces winery and Walla Faces Inns in Walla Walla.

"I have to agree with most comments in this article. I think that the remoteness of Walla Walla is why it will never be another Napa. I grew up in Seattle and never travelled to Walla Walla until five years ago. Walla Walla is on the way to nowhere. It has not been a destination until the recent wine industry success. However, that being said it is still not easy to get here. As mentioned in your blog it is a 4.5 hour drive from either Seattle or Portland. Airline access is extremely limited. Horizon currently has only two flights a day coming from Seattle.

I see Walla Walla not as a future Napa. But rather, I see it as a unique wine area in the state of Washington. It has many boutique wineries, scenic interest with the Blue Mountains, and as Debbie says a "cute Downtown" that harkens back to days of old. I know that there are some locals that are afraid of seeing this remote corner of the state changing. I don't think they need to worry too much."

(To see last week's blog, scroll down.)