An Oyster and Chablis Tasting

On Friday, December 3, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of oysters and Chablis. Six wines were served: one Chablis, three Premier Crus and two Grand Crus. The wines were accompanied by Kumamoto and Kushi oysters from Foodscape and jambon persillé (a parsley aspic which, according to my research, makes an excellent accompaniment to Chablis besides oysters). Here are my notes.

2019 Lamblin & Fils Chablis ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This communal appellation wine shows a light gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, melon, pear blossoms and hillside wildflowers and a hint of wintergreen. The flavors are delicate, yet well delineated, with notes of grape and pear skins and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Sylvain Chablis Premier Cru, Forêts ($39.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This is the first Premier Cru Chablis for under $40 I've seen in a long time (most are $50). It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, orange peel, apple blossoms, hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors are crisp and resonant, yet accessible, with notes of grape and pear skins and hillside minerals. The back picks up apple and peach liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Louis Moreau Chablis Premier Cru, Vau Ligneau ($45.90 - Foodscape) - This shows a brilliant gold color and aromas of green apple, Crenshaw melon, grapefruit, apple blossoms,  hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors combine green and yellow fruits with oyster shell stones and and melon rind. The back reveals Calvados liqueur and grapefruit peel on the way to a bracing, steely finish. Goes great with Kumamotos. 19/20 points.

2019 Fevre-Fevre Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume ($48.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses a steely, floral nose of pear, peach, lime, pear blossoms, wildflowers, and wet stone. On the palate, the wine is dynamically styled, with ripe fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and Kimmeridgian calcareous minerals. The finish is especially exquisite for a Premier Cru, with a long, balanced finish. Judged the best 1er Cru by most tasters. 19+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($99.99 - wine.com) - This is a great step above Premier Cru. It displays an iridescent gold color and rich, floral aromas of old tree pears, peach, melon, lime, apple blossoms, wildflowers and gunflint. The flavors are steely, pure high elevation Chardonnay, marked by grape and apple skins and oyster shell minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, followed by a persistently minerally finish. 19.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($109.99 - wine.com) - This is made in an elegant, crisp negociant style. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it presents floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, wildflowers and wet stone. The flavors are a bit less focused than the Louis Michel Le Clos, with charming white and green fruits that are accented by grape skins and calcareous minerals. The wine finishes crisp and minerally. 19+/20 points. 

Other New Burgundies

2020 Roux Pere & Fils Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse ($18.99 - wine.com) - This offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are fresh and bright, showing considerable Chardonnay purity, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. Fine value. 18+/20 points.

2019 Laurent Perrachon & Fils Saint-Amour "La Gagière" ($19.99 - wine.com) - This is a lovely Cru Beaujolais. It displays a brilliant ruby color and perfumed aromas of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate, red roses, sweet pea flowers and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are charming, with red fruits that are imbued by red licorice, chocolate, black tea and granitic minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a pleasingly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent ($24.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a brick red color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, brambly currants, black roses, tobacco, bayberry and stick incense. The flavors are thick and vigorous, with generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine enriches further with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a warm (14% alcohol) chewy ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

The following three wines come from a Domaine in Morey-St. Denis, that of Frederic and Michel Magnien, that has extensive holdings in the Côte de Nuits. The wines are aged in amphorae, which make them quite distinctive.

2019 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir ($28.99 - wine.com) - From vineyards outside of the Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis and Vosne-Romanee, this shows a brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, blood orange, red roses, purple lilac, sweet tobacco and brambles. The flavors are ample yet deep, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside earth. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côteaux Bourguignnons Pinot Noir ($29.99 - wine.com) - This comes from a small vineyard above the Côte de Nuits. It displays a deep crimson color and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, black roses, juniper berry, a hint of mint, and incense. The flavors are strikingly deep and full (sealed in by the amphorae) with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côte de Nuits Villages ($49.99 - wine.com) - This comes from Brochon which is situated between Fixin and Gerry-Chambertin. It shows a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild strawberries, red cherries, red currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously ripe and mouth-filling, with lavish red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted pecans, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a long, supple slightly grainy tannin finish. 19/20 points.