Cabernet Franc: Washington's Chinon?

Cabernet Franc is widely thought of as being a "Bordeaux" varietal, usually for blending with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, both here in Washington and in the Bordelais. But, as a varietal wine, the flavor profile, to me (and some winemakers have agreed) seems to be more like a Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

Chinon, located on the bank of the Loire tributary, the Vienne River, southeast of Saumur, produces medium-bodied, yet robust, earthy and chewy wines. Rabelais was from Chinon and called them "taffeta wines," meaning that they possessed well-woven textures. Also known as Cabernet Breton, the wines show a distinct minerality from the scree and gravel soil as well. These characteristics recur in many of the Washington Cabernet Francs that I have tasted. Here are some examples, with my tasting notes.

2008 Laurelhurst Cellars Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($28) - October 2010 issue

Sourced from the Kiona, Boushey and Burgess vineyards, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and a rich raspberry, cherry and currant nose with scents of dried rose, tobacco and burning incense. The palate reveals roasted berry flavors that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, scorched earth, minerals, coffee grounds and cinnamon bark. The chewy “taffeta” texture recalls a Chinon from France’s Loire Valley. Moderate tannins and acids make it approachable now; yet will merit aging another year or two. 18.5/20 points.

2007 Hard Row to Hoe Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope ($28) - November 2010 issue

Our second stop [in September] on Lake Chelan’s North Shore was with Don and Judy Phelps. Their Cab Franc displays a brilliant ruby color and aromas of raspberries, cherries, smoke and forest carpet. The medium-full bodied flavors are deliciously ripe and juicy, accompanied by distinct components of licorice and cocoa, underlain with notes of basalt, graham cracker, dried berries, Italian roast and ripe tannins. The chewy, taffeta-like texture on the back recalls a Chinon from the Loire Valley. 18.5/20 points.

2008 Nefarious Cellars Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope, Riverbend Vineyard ($28) - November 2010 issue

This comes from the Wade family vineyard. It exhibits a ruby-crimson color with smoky aromas of blackberries, black cherries and black currants with scents of oriental perfumes. The dark fruits are well saturated and juiced, like macerated berries, underlain with licorice, minerals and graphite, and infused with kirsch liqueur. Tangy cherry and currant juices that are matched by a chewy ripe tannin finish enliven the back. 18.5/20 points.

2008 Cave B Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($28)  - To be in the February 2011 issue

Blended with 8% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this wine shows a deep ruby color and sultry, smoky aromas of raspberry, blackberry, cherry, dried roses, lavender and rubbed sage. On the palate, the flavors are thick and chewy, intermixed with notes of licorice, cocoa powder, minerals and earth. On the back, the flavors turn ripe and juicy, with touches of dried orange peel, pomegranate juice and ripe, chewy tannins. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Substance “Cf” Cabernet Franc, Wash. ($20) - To be in the February issue

This wine resembles a young Chinon from France’s Loire Valley, with its deep ruby color and rich, smoky raspberry and cherry nose and crushed rose scents. The bright flavors are well saturated up front, underlain with a taffeta-like texture and intermixed with notes of cocoa, licorice, earth and coffee grounds. The roasted berries persist on the back and lead into a lingering moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2008 Fjellene Cellars Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley ($28) - To be in the March issue

Sourced from the Waliser Vineyard (Beresan), this is an exemplary Cab Franc. It offers a rich raspberry and black cherry nose with aromas of tobacco, dried roses, smoldering incense and rubbed sage. The medium-bodied flavors are ample, yet well-structured, showing an earthy, tafetta-like texture that recalls a Chinon from the Loire Valley. The background is interwoven with notes of licorice, bittersweet chocolate and French roast. A finely fruited, nutty character persists on the lingering finish. 18.5/20 points.

Here, I think, is a situation were a Washington wine relates more closely to its French origins than most New World wines. I have found California Cabernet Francs to be highly aromatic, smoky and spicy, with notes of green pepper, characteristics that are more restrained in our state's counterparts. As such, Washington Cabernet Francs I find more interesting, and sometimes seductive, wines.

Cabernet Franc and Food Pairings - Washington Cabernet Franc being a savory red lends itself well to many dishes, particularly chicken (roasted, grilled or sauteed), pork (particularly tenderloin) and lamb (especially when braised in Cabernet Franc wine). Note: this is an addendum to the original posting of 25 January.

Next Week - Washington, French and Argentina Malbecs