About a week ago, Sean Sullivan who publishes the on-line Washington Wine Report (www.wawinereport.com) sent me an email asking me about my experience with Washington Chenin Blanc and my perception of it. Here is my reply:

 

Chenin Blanc, in my experience, was never any more than a bit player in the Washington Wine scene. It, I believe, is one of Washington's most undervalued varietals. Chenin Blanc makes more interesting wines than a lot of Chardonnay which has a pervasive sameness. I think the wines compare favorably to those of France's Loire Valley. The drier versions resemble Savennieres. McKinley Springs makes a fine dry Chenin. L'Ecole No. 41 makes a fine off-dry version which originated in the early '80's as Jean Ferguson's tribute to her cherished Vouvrays. Other good producers are Cedergreen and Hestia.

 

I don't know of any specific Chenin Blanc vineyards being pulled out. But it would not surprise me to learn that some did get pulled out. This is unfortunate, as much of the plantings of Chenin Blanc are over 30 years old and exhibit the floral aromatics, body and minerality that make the wines so distinctive.

 

I think the decline in consumption of Chenin Blanc is the result of an image problem. Chenin Blanc comes on as being a "cheaper" variety than Chardonnay or even Riesling. It is also being perceived as somewhat "sweet." These are not images that help widen the appeal of Chenin Blanc. To make a real comeback, it would need to become more prestigious. The quality is there, and there is the potential for even better wines, but given the market, there doesn't seem to be a lot of incentive. I think Chenin Blanc will continue to be a "niche" variety. It's main appeal would be to customers who buy off-beat wines such as those offered by Full Pull, as in Paul Zitarelli's "Save the Chenin" offerings.

 

Here are a few Chenin Blancs that I have recommended in previous issues of the Review of Washington Wines. As crisp, aromatic medium-full flavored wines, they would lend themselves well to lighter fare such as shellfish and chicken.

 

2009 Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($15) - May 2010 issue

This is a delightful Chenin (a highly underrated varietal). It offers an enticing nose of Asian pear, peach, lilac and honeysuckle with a hint of fennel. The white fruit flavors are well extracted, with undertones of wet stone and peach pit that extend into a ripe, dry finish that shows tones of orange peel and almonds on a faintly honeyed yet dry finish. 18+/20 points.

 

2009 L'Ecole No. 41 "Walla Voila" Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($14) - August 2010

"Walla Voila" originated as Jean Ferguson's tribute to her cherished Vouvrays, and it continues to be one of Washington's best renditions of Chenin Blanc. This vintage shows a brilliant gold color and enticing pear, peach and nectarine aromas with scents of honeysuckle. The well-extracted flavors are deliciously lively, with the slightly honeyed papaya and pineapple counterpointed by a crisp, citrusy finish. 18/20 points.

 

2009 Cedergreen Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($17) - October 2010

Kevin Cedergreen sources his Chenin Blanc from 30 year-old vines at Willard Farms. This vintage exhibits an enticing nose of pear, melon and honeysuckle with an aroma of melon peel. The white fruit flavors show a definite stony minerality and old vine character, counterpointed by a supple texture. The back palate picks up grape skin, pear peel and leesy creaminess (from sur-lie aging) on the way to a crisp, lively finish. 18/20 points.

 

2009 McKinley Springs Chenin Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills ($12) - April 2011

This has to be one of the biggest bargains in white wine, from an undervalued varietal. Made in a dry style that recalls a Savennieres from Anjou, this Chenin shows a brilliant straw color and fresh aromas of pear, peach, honeysuckle and orange blossoms. The bright fruit compote flavors are ripe and well extracted and pick up tones of Horse Heaven minerals along with subtle spices, followed by a crisp, flinty dry finish. 18/20 points.

 

Some 2010 Chenin Blancs have already been released and others will come on the market in the coming months. Watch upcoming issues of the Review for reviews of these.

 

The next Review Blog to go on line May 2nd. - The May issue of the Review of Washington Wines goes on line Monday, May 2, and that week's blog will go on line simultaneously.