Review of Washington Wines Blog
A Loire Wine Tasting & More Rosés
Written by Rand Sealey   
Tuesday, 28 July 2015 14:34

The Whitehouse Crawford Loire Wine Tasting

On Sunday, July 26th, the Whitehouse Crawford Restaurant in Walla Walla resumed its series of tastings with wines from France's Loire Valley. General manager Jenna Bicknell selected the wines and provided tasting sheets. Here are the most outstanding wines.

2013 Domaine Lucient Crochet Sancerre ($35) - From the Upper Loire, this 100% Sauvignon comes from Bué, Vinon and Crézancy and is organnically grown. Fermented and aged sur lie, this wine showed a pale gold color and aromas of pear, citrus, quince, blueberry, and wet stone, with scents of white flowers. The flavors comprised the crisp essence of Sauvignon Blanc, with fresh, well extracted fruits. 18.5/20 points.

2011 Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Pouilly Fumé ($120) - The late Didier Dagueneau was legendary for his intense, pure Sauvignon Blancs from across the river from Sancerre. This top of the line cuvée, exhibited a brilliant gold color and intense perfumes - white flowers, white lavender and smoke - with a mélange of intense, laser-like, yet soft and delicate flavors that showed piercing limestone minerality, yet again, warm and elegant. 19.5/20 points.

2012 Nicolas Joly Savennieres, Clos de la Coulée de Serrant ($120) - Coulée de Serrant is dry Chenin Blanc of extraordinary depth and intensity. This one biodynamically grown, showed a deep gold color and an intoxicating nose of pear, peach, apricot, honeysuckle, pear blossoms and white incense. The mouth encompassing flavors were highly extracted, rich, yet dry, with piercing minerality, perfectly ripened, with precise natural acidity on the endless fine ground spice (nutmeg, cardamom, clove) finish. 20/20 points.

2002 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon ($69) - Coteaux du Layon produces sweet Chenin Blanc. This one, from 20% underipe, high acid grapes and 80% late harvested grapes (for as long as 120 days) which go through a slow fermentation process. resulting in wines of extraordinary oulence. This one showed a brilliant gold color and intense aromas of pear, peach, apricot, butternut, honeysuckle and wildflowers. The flavors were lavish and super ripe, with fine acidity, and notes of pêche melba, butternut, citrus and créme brulée, followed by a long, long leesy, unctrous, yet elegant and precise sweet finish. 19.5/20 points.

The Whitehouse Crawford French Rosé Tasting

The next evening, July 27th, Jenna Bicknell put on another inpromptu tasting of French Rosés. Here are my top picks.

2014 Domaine Sorin Côtes de Provence Rosé ($13) - This was the best value of the wines tasted. It showed a light copper color and attractive aromas of raspberry,cherry and melon, with a nice, delicate mouth feel and good acidity and length. 17.5/20 points.

2014 Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé ($19) - Tavel is situated across the Rhône River from Chateauneuf du Pape and produces only rosés. Composed of 45% Grenache, 24% Cinsault, 15% Clairette, 10% Mourvèdre and 6% Syrah, this showed a pink color and a fresh, lovely nose of strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate, pink flowers and white incense. The flavors were lively and well delineateed, with a persistent dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2014 Domaine de la Chanteleusserie Bourgeuil Rosé ($16) - Produced from Cabernet Franc, this Loire Rosé offered a light pink color and fresh ("frais") aromas of strawberry, cherry, wildflowers and light smoke. The flavors were light and well fruited with a crisp, vivacious finish. 18/20 points.

2014 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Rosé ($20) - Chinon is situated next to Bourgeuil, and also grows Cabernet Franc. This possessed a copper-pink color and a lovely, perfumed nose of raspberry and cherry with wildflowers and a whiff of smoke. The crisp, well-defined flavors danced on the palate, with grape skin extracts and minerals, followed by a fine, persistent finish. 18.5/20 points.


A Few More Rosés

Here are a few wines that I tasted over the past few weeks.

2014 Chateau de Campuget, Costierès de Nimes Rosé ($10) - I purchased this at Safeway for $8.99. Not the best Rosé, but a bargain at the price. It showed a light pink copper color and an attractive nose pf raspberry, cherry and red corrants, with scents of Mediterranean wildflowers. The flavors was light, right, juicy and dry. 17.5/20 points.

2014 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé ($23) - Bandol is located in Provence, and is produced from Mourvèdre. This one showed a brilliant light copper color and intriguing aromas of strawberry, cherry. pomegranate, and tangerine, with scents of cherry blossoms, meadow flowers and Provençal herbs. The flavors were ripe and vivid, with notes of grape skin, fraise liqueurs and bright fruit acids on the lingering spice ad herb accented finish. The depth and terroir gives ths a plus. 18.5+/20 points.

2014 Mansion Creek Cellars "The Rocks" Vino Rosado, Walla Walla Valley ($16) - This an attractive Rosé of Sangiovese. It offered a light copper hued color and intriguing aromas of Rainier cherry and tangerine peel, with scents of dried roses and herbs and flavors of grape skin, cherry liqueur and recurring tangerine peel. followed by a dry finish. 18/20 points.

2014 Bunchgrass Grenache Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - Here, Tom Olander has come up with a winner. Pink salmon colored, it possessed attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, pomegranate, and watermelon, with scdents of wildflowers and cherry blossoms. The flavors were enticing, with fresh, lively fruits, intermixed with grape skins and pomegranate seeds and followed by a dry, lightly herbed and spiced Provemçal like finish. 18.5/20 points.




Last Updated on Tuesday, 28 July 2015 16:13
More Walla Walla Valley Wine News
Written by Rand Sealey   
Wednesday, 22 July 2015 14:13

In my posting of 8 July, I reported on a number of Walla Walla Valley wine news items. Here are a few more.


The Heat Wave Abates, but Weather Stays Tinder Dry

Last week and this week has seen more normal temperatures, with highs in the eighties and nineties. But the tinder dry conditions remain a concern. On Monday, a wildfire in the Blue Creek area consumed 3,000 acres, and forced the evacuation of residents on Biscuit Ridge and in Scott Canyon. Rainfall this month has been negligible. This means wine growers still have to constantly monitor the watering of the vines. The vines survived last month's heat wave, but will still need irrigation to keep them going.

Another indication of the impact of this summer's drought is the report that the quality of this year's winter wheat crop is below average. The grains have developed more protein to carbohydrate than normal, making them less suitable for milling into flour for baking.


Lagana Cellars Opens New Tasting Room

In my post of 8 July, I reported that Jason Fox's Lagana Cellars would be opening a new tasting room on East Rose Street, in the location formerly occupied by Glencorrie. The tasting room opened two weeks ago. I stopped by a few days ago and tried the 2013 Breezy Slope Pinot Noir, which was a pleasurable wine, with ripe aromas and supple, yet well defined medium bodied flavors. 18.5/20 points. A full review to be in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines. See the June issue for reviews of previous releases.


The Woodward Canyon Reserve House now Open for Summer

Last Saturday, we had lunch at the Woodward Canyon Reserve House restaurant. It features local, natural ingredients, prepared flavorfully. Sager Small, Rick and Darcey's son is the chef. At out table, two of us had the Ditalini e Ceci, tube pasta with chickpeas, pomodoro, pimenti and rosemary, the other two, Torchiette with Local Peas, ribbon pasta in a sauce of mint, geeen onion and grana padano. I had my ditalini with a glass of 2013 Estate Dolcetto (to be reviewed in the September issue). This restaurant is highly recommended.


Walla Walla Gears Up for Gentlemen of the Road

The biggest event this summer in Walla Walla will be the two days of rock concerts produced by Gentlemen of the Road, featuring Mumford & Sons, Foo Fighters, and other ensembles. To be held Friday and Saturday, August 14 and 15, this even will being thousands into Walla Walla. Downtown businesses, restaurants and wine tasting rooms have Gentlemen of the Road posters on their windows. Tasting room staffs will be beefed up in expectaction of the crowds.




Last Updated on Wednesday, 22 July 2015 17:48
Mid July Wine and Food Miscellany
Written by Rand Sealey   
Wednesday, 15 July 2015 14:51

Wine Country Heat Wave Ends

The heat wave with triple digit temperatures has come to an end. Now highs are a more seasonable upper 'eighties and low 'nineties, with nightime lows in the 'fifties. This is a great relief to wine growers, as it enables the grapes to resume maturing after shutting down in the high temperatures.


The Walla Walla Community College Capstone Kitchen Reopens with Wine

The Capstone Kitchen at the Center for Enology and Viticulture has reopened for the Summer quarter with a new lunch menu and wines from the Center's College Cellars. The menu features tasty dishes created by Robin Leventhal, Dan Thiessen and the Center's culinary students. The College Cellars wines are available in red and white flights. This is the match up that we have been waiting for.


A Visit to the Yakima Valley

The August issue of the Review of Washington Wines, which goes on line July 28th, includes a report on our visit to the Yakima Valley, with reviews of wines from Owen Roe, Dineen Vineyards, Chinook and Alexandria Nicole.

While in Yakima, we had lunch at the Cowkche Canyon Kitchen on East Yakima Avenue. It features an eclectic combination of American and Vietnamese cuisines. If you want a 'burger, with all the fixings, you and have it; it you want a Bahn Minh sandwich, you can have it. The wine list is also eclectic, with local and French bottlings.


Also Coming Up: Seattle's SODO Wineries

The August issue will also report on the SOuth of DOwntown winery scene, which also includes a couple of microbreweries and craft distilleries. The wineries reviewed are Bartholomew, Scarborough, Kerloo Cellars, O S, Cloudlift, and Laurelhurst Cellars.

While we were in Georgetown, we heard talk about the new Charles Smith Winery that is to be opened July 25th. so we decided to have a look. It is located on South Albro Place, across from the north boundary of Boeing Field. The winery is in a big black building and it will feature a restaurant and a rooftop deck. The Logo atop the building will say "Charles Smith Wines Jet City." See the Charles Smith website for more.



Walla Walla Valley Wine News
Written by Rand Sealey   
Wednesday, 08 July 2015 13:46

As summertime gets under way, here are a few news items about the Walla Walla Valley wine scene.


The Valley Heat Wave Continues

Last week, I reported on the effects of the triple digit temperatures in the wine country. Since then, the high tempratures have continued, with temperatures around 100. June turned out to be the hottest on record, with a high of 113 on June 28. Rainfall was a scant .07 inches, way below the normat of 1.28 inches. Some abating of the high temperatures is ahead, with a much more normal 89 degrees predicted for Saturday.


G. Cuneo and Salida Join in the "Latin Corner"

One of the latest developments in the Downtown Walla Walla winery scene is the formation of Gino Cuneo Cellars' and Doug McCrea's Salida Wine's Latin Corner tasting room at the corner of 2nd Street and Rose Street. It now offers an elegant setting for sampling Washington wines produced from Italian and Spanish varieties such as Nebbiolo and Tempranillo. It is a shared facility, with both wineries sharing the costs. And it brings together the winemaking experience of Gino Cuneo a 25 year veteran of Italian-style winemaking, and Doug McCrea, a pioneer of Rhone and Spanish varieties, both using fruit from unique Washington vineyards.

The Latin Corner is a truly unique tasting room, unlike any other in town. Doug McCrea states, "We take pride in the fact that we've created for wine lovers an unprecedented 'one of a kind' experience. So essentially, that's the driving factor regarding the location and we want to be certain that the folks who visit Walla Walla know of our very special location and of our efforts to promote grape varietals outside of the plethora of wines primarily of French origins."

The Latin Corner is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday. The current releases from Salida are reviewed in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines. The G. Cuneo wines will be in the August issue.


It's a Wrap for Trio Vintners

On Friday July 3rd, Karen LaBonte held an "It's a Wrap" party for Trio Vintners which will be closing in August. Karen and Darwin will be moving to the Oregon Coast, necessitated by the Walla Walla Valley environment which has agravated her hearing loss. It was a big event where much Trio Vintners wine was poured, and a live rock band - with Karen's beau, Darwin, playing the bass guitar - performed. It was held at the Main Street Studio and the place rocked. Our best to Karen and Darwin for their future!


Lagana Cellars to Open Tasting Room Downtown

Jason Fox plans to open a tasting room on East Rose Street, where Glencorrie was formerly located (that winery's tasting room has moved to Old Highway 12). The Lagana tasting room is expected to open late summer.


Tertulia Cellars now Features a Petanque Terrain

In May, the Walla Walla Petanque Club inaugurated a boules terrain behind Tertulia Cellars, and held its first tournament there on June 21st. On Sundays, many members congregate there to play and to sip Tertulia Cellars wine. Kudos to Tertulia's Ryan Raber and to the WWPC's Philippe Michel and Ted Cox for putting this together.



Last Updated on Wednesday, 08 July 2015 16:42
The Wine Country Mid-Year Heat Wave
Written by Rand Sealey   
Wednesday, 01 July 2015 13:28

Last Saturday, we drove out to the Yakima Valley to visit a few wineries (to be reviewed in the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines). When we left Walla Walla at 8 a.m., the temperature gauge on our car registered 79 degreees. When we reached Yakima, it was 94. We packed a cooler in to trunk to put our wine purchases into. Interestingly enough, most of the wineries had surprisingly good turnouts despite the 100 plus degree temperatures. The next day, Walla Walla hit a high of 113 degrees, the likes of which hasn't been seen in years.

The heat wave is now into its third week. Wildfires have been spreading around eastern Washington, with thousands of acres scorched.

What does all this mean for the vineyards? It's not good. When temperatures reach about 95 degrees, wine grape vines start to shut down in order to protect themselves. This means the plants' energy is going into the vines rather than the grapes, shutting down their maturation. Grapes can also become sunburned. In this situation, watering is critical and requires constant vigilance. Young vines with less leaf canopy are particularly vulnerable. Certain grapes react differently. Syrah shuts down and leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese handle heat better. (For a more complete report see Andy Perdue's posting of June 30 in greatnorthwestwine.com).

The end of the heat wave is nowhere in sight. The current weather forecast is for temperatures hovering around 100 degrees for the next two weeks. More later!

Last Updated on Wednesday, 01 July 2015 14:12

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