Highlights of Visits in the Yakima Valley
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- Written by Rand Sealey
A week ago, Friday, August 17th and Saturday the 18th, we made an overnight excursion to Red Mountain, Kennewick and Prosser. Here are the highlights.
Our first stop was at the end of Sunset Road on Red Mountain. At Hightower, we tasted top one Estate wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Red Blend to be reviewed in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines. At Tapteil, there were five Rhone and BDX reds. Then we went on down to Fidelitas for some fine 2015 reds and Frichette for new 2016 BDX reds, all to be in the October Review of Washington Wines.
After Red Mountain, we drove back to Kennewick to have or VW Beetle Convertible serviced while visiting the Bartholomew Winery. There, we tasted two distinctive reds that are nearly sold out. Here are the reviews.
2015 Bartholomew Malbec, Columbia Valley ($29) - Sourced from the Lawrence Vineyard, this shows an inky purplish-ruby color and seductive aromas of blackberry, blueberry, wild currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco and violets. The flavors are velvety yet precise, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and Royal Slope alluvial minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts and graphite, followed by a long, dryish ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Bartholomew Tannat, Rattlesnake Hills, Konnowac Vineyard ($33) - Tannat is a grape originating in Southwest France. This version shows a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, tobacco, and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, with loads of forward dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and Rattlesnake Hills scorched earth. The intensity continues on the back with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, toffee, dried cherries and charcoal, followed by a robust yet smooth ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
After Kennewick, we drove back to Prosser to check in at the Best Western Inn at Horse Heaven. We had dinner at Wine O'Clock, a restaurant we highly recommend, run by Susan Bunnell, featuring wines made by her husband, Ron Bunnell. If you ever go East on I-82, be sure to get off at exit 80 into Prosser. The restaurant is fantastic, using fresh local ingredients and fine wines. The wine bar was featuring two terrific half price deals: a flight of three 2011 Syrahs for $19, from a greatly underrated vintage from three AVAs, Yakima Valley (Boushey) Horse Heaven and Red Mountain, and a 2015 Cabernet at half off from $24 to $12, a steal of a deal.
The next morning, we drove up north of Prosser on Gap Road to visit for the first time, Barrel Springs with owner-winemaker Jim Madison and tasting room manager Annette Alfsonnett. The 2015 Chardonnay at $15 (18.5/20 points) and the 2014 Estate Syrah at $25 (18.5/20 points) are super bargains. Watch for them in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
We then returned to the Winemakers' Village in Prosser to taste at Gamache Vintners (lovely 2017 Viognier and Semillon and tasty 2014 reds) and Milbrandt (outstanding 2014 Estate reds from the Northridge Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. For lunch, we returned to Wine O'Clock for a tasty wood oven baked pear and bacon pizza, with three featured Wine O'Clock wines, a 2017 Pinot Gris, a non-vintage Snipes Creek Redd and a bargain $24 Syrah.
After lunch, we stopped at WIT Cellars for the newly released Malbec and Petit Verdot Dessert Wine and Alexandria Nicole Cellars for the 2017 Viognier, 2016 Jet Black Syrah and 2016 Little Big Man Petit Verdot. After that, we headed back to Walla Walla.
Watch for these wines in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line September 25.
More on Heat Wave and Marie-Eve Gilla
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- Written by Rand Sealey
This week's posting is a follow-up to last week's where I wrote about the Heat Wave in the Walla Valley and about Marie-Eve Gilla's retirement from Forgeron Cellars.
More on the Heat Wave and a Correction
Last week, I got an email from Rick Johnson, owner of Johnson Ridge winery and vineyard:
"I always enjoy reading your blog. I know that accuracy is important to you as you always have me check your reviews of my wine. I thought I would let you know about an inaccuracy in your Heat Wave in the Valley paragraph. You mention that the vines shut down when the temperatures reach 105 degrees. Actually, the vines shut down when the temperatures reach 95 degrees. Over 95 degrees the vines are shut down, and there is no photosynthesis or evapotranspiration. In fact, when calculating growing degree days, only temperatures between 50 and 95 degrees are used in calculating the total number of growing degree days.
You are correct that this year is a warmer than normal year (although normal seems to be changing as our planet keeps heating up). At our location in Walla Walla Valley, we have accumulated 2,032 growing degree-days this year from April 1 to August 8. In 2014, we had 1,991 growing degree-days on August 8 and in 2015, we had 2,196 growing degree-days. This year we are next to only 2015 in terms of growing degree-days by this date. Last year, we started out fast like this year, but growing degree-days really slowed down in September and October with cooler weather. It will be interesting to see this season if the heat continues through September and October, or if it tails off like it did last year."
Thanks, Rick, for this highly informative commentary. It will, indeed, be interesting to see how the 2018 harvest turns out.
Marie-Eve Gilla's Future Plans Revealed
Last week, I reported that Marie-Eve Gilla has announced her retirement from Forgeron Callars. No reason other than more time with family was given until very recently. Her next job will be with Valdemar Estates, owned by Bogegas Valdemar in the Rioja district of Spain. No, Marie-Eve is not moving to Spain. She will be the winemaker for Valdemar Estates' new winery in the Walla Walla Valley, off Peppers Bridge Road, next to Waters and Flying Trout. The new winery is under construction and it looks like it will be an impressive facility. The best of luck to Marie-Eve!
Tomorrow, Lynn and I will be driving over to Red Mountain and Prosser to see what's new over there. I will be reporting on our visits in next week's Review Blog on Friday, August 24, along with the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
Walla Walla Valley News and Events
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- Written by Rand Sealey
There has been a lot going on in the Walla Walla Valley in the middle of summer. Here are the latest news and events.
Heat Wave in the Valley
For over two weeks, there have been one hundred plus days of heat. Yesterday (Wednesday) the high was 107, today's forecast is for 109 degrees. A cooling trend is predicted for the weekend, with temperatures in the 'eighties, and then back up to over 100 next Wednesday. What does this do to the vines? When temperatures reach 105, vines start shutting down for self protection. Also, there is the issue of sunburn which scorches grapes. Verasion, which is the stage where grapes start to turn colored, is already under way. The growing heat days are way above normal, and another early harvest is expected. The 2018 growing season is being compared to 2014, another hot year. I'll keep you posted.
The Eritage Resort now Open
A few weeks ago, the Eritage Resort, owned by Scott Knox of Vista Ventures and Justin Wylie, owner of the adjacent Heritage Vineyard and Va Piano Vineyards, opened for business. This destination resort is located north of Walla Walla on Bergevin Springs Road, off Lower Waitsburg Road. There is a restaurant, and guest room suites on the premises amid vineyards and wheat fields. Ten villas will be opened in 2019. Lynn and a couple of friend stopped by there last week and was showed around by Events Manager Deb Carter. Lynn was given the restaurant menu and wine list, all items reasonably priced. The wines are not much above normal retail, and the entrees quite affordable. We will go up there in the near future. When we've done so, I'll write a report in an upcoming Review Blog posting.
Marie-Eve Gilla Retires from Forgeron
A couple of weeks ago, Marie-Eve Gilla announced her retirement as winemaker for Forgeron Cellars. No reason for the retirement was given except that she looks forward to more time with her family, a son and a daughter, and husband Gilles Nicault, winemaker at Long Shadows. She will have an on line blog in the near future, reporting on her post retirement activities. Right now, she is vacationing in France with her children. All the best for Marie-Eve!
Mauro Golmarvi Presents an Assaggio Pop-Up Dinner
Last Friday, August 3, Mauro Golmarvi and Connie Blumenthal, owners of Assaggio Restaurant in Seattle (and our next door neighbors in Walla Walla), put on the First Annual Pop-Up Dinner at Bacon & Eggs on Main Street in Walla Walla. All the proceeds went to the Cannara Sister City Exchange program which hosts and trains Italian culinary students in Walla Walla. It was a great event. Lynn and I put together a table of six. The four course menu consisted of choices of primo, insalata, secondo and dolce plates. I chose bruschetta, Franceasca salad, brasata - slow cooked short ribs - and gelato. What could be more Italian? We went through three bottles of Brunello di Montalcino for the dinner. Can't wait for the second annual.
In Praise of Pink Wine - Also Merlot
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Last Saturday, July 28th, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of Merlot wines (see below). After the tasting, a bunch of additional wines, including whites and rosés were opened go with the appetizers. The temperature outside was 105 degrees and chilled rosés were the refreshment of choice. After the appetizers, some of us went outside for cigars, and guess what rosé was still the beverage of choice. Sparkling Rosé and Tavel Rosé were the ones that hit the spot.
But you know what else? Rosés are not just for summer. They are versatile and interesting wines that can go with a lot of things. And the range of styles is amazing, ranging in color from pale (such as Bandol) to deep pink (as in Tavel) and in complexity from delicately exquisite to full and vigorous. Lynn and I have tried over 50 Rosés from around the world and most of them have been very enjoyable. They're great wines with food and with enjoyable conversation.
Where to Buy Rosé Wines
Rosé wine is not a mainstream product like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. To appreciate Rosé wine requires a significant degree of sophistication. The fine Rosés are a far cry from White Zinfandel. In Walla Walla, The Thief Wine & Beer has an admirable collection from around the world (see below). Esquin Wine & Spirits in Seattle has a bevy of Rosés from Provence and Southern France as well as ones from Washington and Oregon. And Safeway has the best selection of supermarkets, including ones from the Côtes de Provence.
More Rosés Recently Tasted
2017 Mansion Creek Cellars Rosado, Columbia Valley ($26) - Just released, this is a Spanish style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Touriga Nacional. Brilliant light copper-pink colored, this possesses a brilliant copper-pink color and aromas of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, orange peel, cherry blossoms, lavender and spiced incense (from the Mourvèdre). The flavors are pleasingly light and sprightly, with notes of grape skin, pomegranate seeds and recurring orange peel, followed by a dry finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Bieler Pere & Fils "Sabine" Aix en Provence Rosé ($11.99 - Safeway) - Light pink colored, this possesses attractive aromas of raspberry, cherry, watermelon, tangerine, lavender and white incense. The flavors are lightly extracted and with notes of framboise, orange peel and melon rind, followed by a crisp, dry finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Domaine Sorin "Terra Amata" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($11.99 - Safeway) - This shows a copper tinged pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, cherry blossoms, pink lilac and white incense. The flavors brisk and lively, with fraise and cerise liqueurs on the back, followed by a finely fruited dry finish. 18+/20 points.
The following six wines were purchased at the Thief Wine & Beer shop on Main Street in Walla Walla.
2017 Pico Maccario "Lavignone" Piemonte Rosato ($19) - Produced from the Barbera grape, this shows a brilliant pink-copper color and enticing aromas of cherry and red currant with scents of rose petals, cherry blossoms and incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of raspberry and cherry liqueurs, orange peel and saline minerals, followed by a slightly tart dry finish. Great value. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Loimer Rosé vom Zweigelt / Pinot Noir, Niederösterreich ($19) - Zweigelt is a crossing of St. Laurent and Blaufranckich and this one is blended with 20% Pinot Noir. Niederösterreich is Lower (i.e. downriver) Austria. This wine shows a brilliant pink color and a floral nose of wild strawberries, cherries and red currants with scents of cherry blossoms and wildflowers. The flavors are nicely extracted with bright fruits and a crisp, lively finish. A charming low alcohol (11.5%) Rosé, not highly complex but pleasing, which gives it a plus. 18+/20 points.
2017 Jurtschitsch Rosé vom Zweigelt, Langenlois ($25) - From Northern Austria, this version shows an iridescent pink color and an intriguing nose of strawberry, cherry, rhubarb and red currant, with scents of pink roses, orange blossoms, jasmine and white incense. The flavors are exquisitely wrought and lightly extracted, with fraise and cerise liqueurs and orange peel prefacing a dry, faintly puckery finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Finca Jakue Getariako Txakolina Rose ($25) - Getariako Txkolina is located in the Basque Province of Spain. This is produced from the indigenous Hondarrabi Zuri white grape, blended with a bit of red Hondarrabi Belta. It shows a brilliant copper color and intriguing aromas of cherry, pomegranate, pink peach, cherry blossoms, pink lilac, lavender, orange peel and Basque herbs. The flavors, as well, are striking, with a slight fizziness which enlivens the wine, accented by notes of tart cherries, dried pomegranate seeds and recurring orange peel. Low alcohol (11.5%) makes it quaffable. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé ($22) - This comes from the North end of Burgundy's Côte de Nuits and is made from Pinot Noir. It shows a pretty pink-salmon color and enticing aromas of strawberries, cherries and red currants with scents of cherry blossoms, wildflowers, pink lilac and white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing with vibrant red fruit flavors that are imbued with red licorice, orange peel, kirsch and creme de cassis, followed by a deliciously fruited yet dry finish. The balance gives it a plus. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Chateau de la Bonnelière "Rive Gauche" Chinon Rosè ($17) - Produced from Cabernet Franc, this Loire Rosé is made in a light, fresh style, it sports a light pink-salmon color and floral aromas of wild strawberry, red currant, cherry. pink lilac and whiffs of white pepper and incense. The flavors are deft and dry, taffeta textured, comprised of freshly squeezed red fruit juices, followed by a bit of dried currants and cherries on the finish. 18/20 points.
Lynn's Three Star Rosés
My wife, Lynn, has a simple but highly useful system of rating wines. She gives one star to very good wines, two stars to excellent ones, and three stars to outstanding ones. Here is a list of the Rosés we have tasted that scored three stars. The are listed in reverse order of tasting, with the most recent ones first.
2017 Picco Maccario Piemonte Rosato ($19) - See above.
2017 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé ($22) - See above.
2017 Domaine Sorin Côtes de Provence Rosé ($11.99 - Safeway) - See above
2017 Caves d'Esclans "Whispering Angel" Cotes de Provence Rosé ($24.99 - Safeway) - 10 July Blog (scroll down to see)
2017 Fleur de Mer Côtes de Provence Rosé ($17.99 - Safeway) - 10 July. Great value.
2017 Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol Rosé ($29.99 - wine.com) - 10 July. Bandol produces some of Provence's best Rosés.
2017 Rôtie Cellars Rosé, Washington State ($22) Review August issue - recently retasted, scoring 19/20 points up from 18.5+/20. This is the most Bandol-like Washington Rosé tasted.
2017 Château de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé ($17.99 - wine.com) - 10 July. Beautiful color and flavors.
2017 College Cellars Rosé of Grenache, Columbia Valley ($20) - June Review. This is a delightful slightly effervescent Rosé.
2017 Minuty Côtes de Provence Rosé Rose ($12.99 - Safeway) - 10 July. Terrific value.
2017 Aluvé Rose of Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - May issue. Now sold out.
The PAWS Merlot Tasting
This was an interesting and educational tasting by the PAWS (Perfectly Aged Wine Sippers), a seniors wine tasting group on July 28 (see first paragraph above). There were six Merlots, poured blind, three from Washington, one from California and two from Bordeaux. Participants were asked to guess where each wine was. No taster got all the wines right. Most got half of them right. Two got four out of six (66%) right, Philippe Michel (METIS Consulting) and I. This went to prove that even the wine industry "experts" can be wrong. My tasting notes and scores below
2015 Château Bellevue, Saint Emilion Grand Cru ($59.99 - Total Wine) - This showed a semi opaque ruby-garnet color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberry, plum, black currant, tobacco and smoldering incense. The flavors were bold, powerful and multi layered with a long, sweetish, minerally finish. I correctly identified it as a Bordeaux - Saint Emilion. 19/20 points.
2015 Otis Kenyon Merlot, Walla Walla Valley ($39) - Ruby-garnet colored, this possessed a rich nose of Boysenberry, cherry and plum, with scents of roses, tobacco, orange peel and incense. The flavors were supple and minerally, with lanolin ("legs") and moderate tannins and bright acids. Coming on as a typical Walla Walla Valley Merlot, I correctly identified is as a Washington Merlot. A full review will be in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Château La Pointe, Pomerol ($54.99 - Total Wine) - Philippe and I got this one wrong. With a ruby color and medium bodied raspberry, cherry and plum flavors and aromas and moderate tannins. it came on more like a Washington Merlot than a Bordeaux. 18.5+/20 points.
2014 Gundlach-Bundschu Merlot, Sonoma Valley ($21.99 - Total Wine) - This showed a deep ruby color and aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, tobacco, orange peel, with full and generous flavors and ripe tannins. With the earmarks of a Sonoma Merlot, I correctly identified it as being from California. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Pepper Bridge Merlot, Walla Walla Valley ($50) - This was far and away the top wine of the tasting. Deep ruby colored, it possessed sultry aromas of raspberry, cherry plum, tobacco and cedar with brightly, elegantly fruited medium full bodied flavors and a long, complex finish. Philippe and I correctly guessed an architypical Walla Walla Merlot (along with Leonetti). Reviewed in the August issue. 19.5/20 points.
2015 Revelry Reserve Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, Alder Ridge Vineyard. ($42) - Ruby garnet colored, this showed a sultry nose of raspberries, cherries, plums, truffles, roses and incense. The flavors were comprised of roasted berries and nuts, toffee, graphite and plum preserves, followed by a long, supple minerally finish. Philippe and I got this wrong. What threw us off was the truffles and distinct ferruginous minerality (traits of Pomerol) of this wine. To be reviewed in the September issue. 19+/20 points.
This tasting was a great educational experience. All the participants appreciated the wines and are loyal Merlot fans, unlike Sideways' Miles.
Visiting the Columbia Gorge
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Last Thursday, July 19th, Lynn and I drove from Walla Walla to the Columbia Gorge to visit wineries around Lyle, Washington. The Gorge is a transitional microclimate, between the cooler West Columbia River and the warmer, drier East. The climate is especially suited for growing wine grapes.
On the way to Lyle, on Highway 14, we noticed plumes of smoke arising from a canyon on the Oregon side, between Biggs and The Dalles. It was a brush fire scorching the hills and producing lots of smoke, but no flames. We hoped this was not the beginning of a smoky wildfire season like last year's.
Our first stop in Lyle was at Memaloose, just east of town. There, we tasted some 2015 and 2014 reds from the Idiot's Grace Vineyard above Lyle, including some nice Dolcetto and Barbara wines, a winery specialty. The wines will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
After lunch at the Country Kitchen, we drove up the Lyle-Balch Road (Old Highway 8) top Syncline. From the nearby Lyle-Balch Cemetery, we could see a spectacular view of Mount Hood across the river. At Syncline, we tasted a bevy of 2017 whites and 2016 and 2015 reds with owner-winemaker James Mantone. Most of the wines are from Rhone varietals - Syrah, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Mourvèdre, including the rare Cinsault - plus Pinot Noir, a Gorge specialty. All these to be reviewed in September.
Our next stop was at COR Cellars (Latin for heart) founded in 2004 by Luke Bradford. With Catherine - "Cat" - Kaczynski, we tasted a variety of wines, including the new AGO line from grapes sourced from the Columbia Gorge AVA, including a charming 2016 Chardonnay blended with 26% Tocai Friuliano, a rarity outside of Italy's Venezia. To be reviewed September.
We then swung around and back up to Alexis and Juliet Pouillon's Domaine Pouillon. With Juliet, we tasted a couple of fine Rosés (see below) and some tasty Rhone style white and reds, including an admirable 2015 Grenache. These will be reviewed in September.
After Domaine Poullion, we drove across the Columbia River on the Bridge of the Gods to Hood River where we stayed at the Best Western Hood River Inn. At the Riverside Restaurant we had a dinner of Columbia River salmon with a pleasing Sinneann Y'East Vineyard Pinot Noir.
The next morning, we drove back across the Columbia River to Tetrahedron in Lyle. Tetrahedron is the shape of a water molecule. We tasted a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé (see below) and a fine 2016 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay and an Oregon Mountain Pinot Noir (September).
We then drove East and then across the river to The Dalles where we had lunch at La Petite Provence where we had sandwiches with a local Pinot Gris. As we drove on east, we saw the site of the previous day's brush fire. It had burned out, leaving scorched earth, but no smoke. The Gorge got lucky this time. Let's hope there are no more fires like last year's.
While in the Columbia Gorge, we tasted some very nice Rosé wines. Here are our reviews.
2017 Memaloose "The Gorge" Estate Rosé Wine ($21) - Composed of 58% Grenache and 42% Syrah, this shows a light copper color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry and rhubarb, cherry blossoms, lavender, tangerine peel and incense. The flavors are nice and juicy, lightly extracted, with notes of framboise, kirsch and toasted nuts prefacing a dry finish. 18+/20 points.
2017 Syncline Rosé Wine, Horse Heaven Hills ($24) - This blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 33% Grenache and 27% Counoise, crushed direct to press offers a light copper color and enticing aromas of strawberry, rhubarb, watermelon, blood orange peel, wildflowers and incense. The flavors are crisp and dry, Provence like, with notes of grape skin, melon rind and minerals. The back picks up touches of toffee, fraise liqueur and recurring orange peel on the dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Pouillon Pinot Noir Rosé, Columbia Gorge ($27) - Brilliant pink-copper colored, this emits intriguing aromas of fraises de bois, peach, Rainier cherry, orange peel, forest carpet, cherry and orange tree blossoms and white incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, with notes of grape skin, pêche and cerise liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a light alcohol (11.7%) lip smacking dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Pouillon Estate Syrah Rosé, Columbia Gorge ($29) - With a three hour maceration, this is a more extracted than usual Rosé. It shows a copper hued color and an intense nose of wild raspberries, cranberries, watermelon and currants, with scents of pink lilac, lavender, orange peel and spiced incense. The flavors are pleasingly juicy and nicely extracted, with notes pf melon rind, recurring orange peel and crème de cassis, followed by a lingering, faintly honeyed herb and spice dusted finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Tetrahedron Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Columbia Gorge, Graves Vineyard ($24) - This is made in a "bigger" style than most Rosés. It shows a copper color and intriguing aromas of strawberry, cherry, plum, vanillin (from oak aging) cherry tree blossoms, wildflowers and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with notes of grape skin, fraise and cerise liqueurs and toasted nuts prefacing a dry, structured finish. Will age well. 18.5/20 points.
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