I've been tasting quite a few 2010 Washington reds as more wineries deplete their inventory of 2009's and move into the next vintage. As you may recall, 2010 saw a protracted harvest through sometimes cool weather and occasional showers. It was in mid November that the last grapes were harvested.

One thing I have heard winemakers say is that the 2010's show more phenolic compounds than the 2008's and 2009's (from warmer vintages). The main phenolic compounds are flavenoids which give red wines flavors and tannins, mainly from the skins. As a consequence, the aromas and flavors are more on the dark fruit (e.g. blackberry, black currant) than the red fruit (e.g. raspberry, cherry) part of the spectrum. Also, the phenols impart more bush-like aromatics (mulberry, brambles, etc.) than in warmer vintages. I recently retasted Rotie Cellars' 2010's (first reviewed in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines). Here are my notes:

2010 Rotie Cellars, Southern Blend, Columbia Valley ($40)

Deep ruby-garnet colored, this blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre emits rich aromas of blueberry, cherry, cassis, licorice, coffee beans, brambles and incense. The medium-bodeied flavors show a moderate richness, with notes of licorice, cocoa powder and earthy minerals. The back reveals notes of dried cherries, bitter orange peel, roasted walnuts and moderate toasty oak, followed by a chewy, sweet-dry tannin finish. Approachable now. Straddles the "old" and "new" world style. 19/20 points.

2010 Rote Cellars Northern Blend, Columbia Valley ($40)

Composed of 95% Syrah, co-fermented with 5% Viognier, this displays a purplish ruby color and a dark nose of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, burnt orange peel and smoldering incense. The dark fruit flavors mirror the aromatics, with a penetrating direct intensity that is reinforced with notes of dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans, dried currants, and vanilla bean, followed by a squeeze of macerated blueberry juice and a touch of leather, all leading into a slightly nutted sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Here, with these two wines, the phenolic aromatics (burnt orange peel, brambles, incense) are forward, and the fruits are dark (e.g. black currant) rather than ripe, and are focused, rather than ample. Ester-oriented aromatics such as roasted nuts and macerated fruits emerge on the back of the nose.

Another thing I have heard some winemakers say is that the 2010"s are more "Old World" than usual for Washington wines. That is to say that they are more structured and classically styled. They sometimes straddle the old and new world styles (as indicated in the last sentence of my notes on the Rotie Southern Blend). Along these lines, here's another review of a 2010 "Rhone Style" blend:

2010 Murphy & Ott "Double Bluff" Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills ($18.99 at Esquin)

According to the back label, this Syrah/Grenache/Cinsault blend is "Inspired by the great everyday wines of Southern France." Deep ruby colored, it offers a nose of black cherries, black currants, anise, tobacco, dried roses and mulberry. On the palate, the fruits are direct and focused, with notes of coffee beans, Horse Heaven earth and minerals, continuing on the back with notes of dried cherries, bitter orange peel and cinnamon bark, followed by a dryish tannin finish, with just a touch of ripeness. More old world than new world. 18/20 points.

Will the 2010's be more ageworthy than, say, the 2008's and 2009's? My answer would be yes and no. Some wines that I have tasted from the barrels have shown great potential (including a killer Petit Verdot from Sleight of Hand). But the best are yet to come. Some wines, such as the Murphy & Ott above, are much like the "value" wines of Spain and Southern France, well-structured but not highly complex, ones for near to mid term consumption.

Best Buys for August

Here are some great values, found at Esquin and other places, that should not be missed.

2010 Waters Syrah, Columbia Valley ($18.99 at Esquin)

Deep purplish colored, this shows an attractive nose of blackberry, blueberry and cherry, with scents of anise, black roses, lavender and rubbed sage. The aromas are echoed by the dark fruit flavors, intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, espresso and minerally earth. The wine's directness continues on the back with notes of squeezed berry juices, tart cherries, roasted chestnuts and bright fruit acids on a moderate tannin finish, marked by savory spices and herbs. Almost an 18.5 points wine. 18+/20 points.

In view of the above discussion of the 2010 vintage, it is interesting to note that the Waters back label states: "From some of the best cool-climate vineyards that Washington State has to offer, this Syrah offers natural balance and generous acidity that one would expect in a Syrah from the "Old World."

2010 Idilico Garnacha, Washington State ($18.99 at Esquin)

Garnacha is the Spanish name for Grenache, so named here because the owner-winemaker, Javier Alfonso, is from Spain. Purplish ruby colored, it emits an intriguing nose of black cherry, Damson plum, anise, brambles and black roses. The flavors are medium-bodied, yet reveal a black fruited intensity, intermixed with licorice, dark roasted coffee beans and loamy, minerally earth, followed by sensations of dried cherries and orange peel on a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. Again, more old world than new in style. 18.5/20 points.

2010 Array Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($23.99 at Esquin)

The Array winery makes only Chardonnay. This one comes from three highly-respected vineyards: 41% Conner-Lee, 33% Dionysus and 26% Stillwater Creek. Brilliant gold colored, it offers an attractive nose of pear-apple, white peach, apple blossoms, acacia flowers, flintstone, citrus, and a wafting of toasted oak. The flavors are true to variety and well extracted (from full cluster fermentation in oak barrels) and equipoised, integrating apple, stone fruit and stony minerals. The back picks up notes of peach pit and a touch of cream (from full malolactic) counterpointed by a squeeze of lemon zest on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Cor Cellars "Momentum" Red, Horse Heaven Hills ($14.99 at Esquin)

Composed of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 24% Petit Verdot and 14% Malbec, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and rich, sultry aromas of raspberries, plums, cherries, brewed coffee, black roses and loamy earth. The medium-bodied flavors are generous and fleshy, marked by chocolate, mocha and wind-blown Horse Heaven earth and minerals. The ripeness continues on the back with notes of macerated plums and spiced cherries on a supple moderate acid and tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2011 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Cold Creek Vineyard ($15.49 at Thriftway)

From one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the state (planted in the 1970's) this displays a brilliant greenish-tinted gold color and fragrant aromas of green apple, white peach and grapefruit, with scents of honeysuckle, clover and wet stone. On the palate, the white fruit flavors are fresh and lively, accented by notes of peach stones, grape skin extracts and alluvial minerals. The back picks up touches of citrus, passion fruit, flintstone and honey on a lingering, racy medium-dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard ($20.99 at Thriftway)

This Merlot shows a deep ruby color and an intense nose of raspberry, cherry, plum, rose petals, sandalwood and sweet spiced incense. The flavors are generous and full, abounding with ripe fruits that are intermixed with licorice, Swiss chocolate, roasted coffee beans and Horse Heaven earth and minerals. The richness continues on the back, with notes of squeezed plum juice, mocha and toasted almonds on a lingering, moderately oaked sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

The Tero Estates "Block Party"

On August 11th, Lynn and I attended the Tero Estates "Block Party" at the winery and Windrow Vineyards, west of Milton-Freewater. The event consisted of a walking tour of the vineyard, with stations where a wine from that vineyard block was served along with appetizers prepared by the Walla Walla Community College's culinary school. All the wine-food pairings were spot on.

After assembling at the winery while sipping prosecco, accompanied by smoked salmon and cheeses, we walked to Herb's Block (named for Dr. Herbet Hendricks who planted the original Seven Hills Vineyard, which was split up in 1994). There, winemaker Doug Roskelley talked about the vineyard while guests sampled the 2009 Herb's Block Merlot along with lamb rillettes, preserved cherries and onion jam on crostini.

Next, we walked up a slope to the Plateau Block, planted in 1996 to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, on a bench composed of deep soils, scoured from the hillside. The smoked bacon and chevre on chile blini made a fine pairing with the Tero 2009 Cabernet Franc.

Our next stop was at the edge of the Old Block, planted from 1981 on, composed of loess soil. There, we sampled the 2009 Windrow Red, a co-fermented field blend, composed of the same percentages of grapes as the Windrow Vineyard: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec. This was accompanied by braised short ribs of beef on slices of mushroom polenta.

We then returned to the winery for a dessert of bacon-huckleberry-thyme chocolate macaroons, accompanied by Ashley Trout's 2009 Flying Trout Mary's Block Malbec, while Ashley discussed her wine.

Afterwards, Tero Estates" 2008 Single Block Cabernets were available for tasting: Hill Block (planted 1998), Plateau Block (1996) and Old Block (1981). These will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines. The 2009 reds are to be reviewed in the October issue. For pictures of this event, see the Review of Washington Wines on Facebook.

The Mark Ryan Winery Tasting Room Opening

On Friday, August 10th, the Mark Ryan Winery held the Grand Opening of of its tasting room on Main Street in downtown Walla Walla. It represents a reversal of the usual scenario of a Walla Walla winery opening a tasting room in Woodinville, in that Mark Ryan already has a facility in Woodinville. It was also the occasion of the release of the winery's 2010 reds. Owner-winemaker Mark Ryan McNeilly was on hand and many guests came: winemakers, growers and other locals and semi-locals (including ourselves). The 2010 reds will be reviewed in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines. See the Review of Washington Wines Facebook page for pictures.

At just about every wine get together - tastings or dinner parties - the conversation comes around to how best to promote Washington wines in order to grow the industry. Recently, the Washington Wine Commission announced a new Five Year Strategic Plan focusing on the trade and media, especially print, broadcast and internet.

Whenever I've had an opportunity to comment on the subject of Washington wine promotion, I point out that one key is an emphasis on quality. Governor Christine Gregoire's comment that "They [California] make jug wines. We make fine wine." is particularly apt and telling. While California makes much more wine than Washington, the bulk of its overall production is lower and mid tier wine. Washington has a much higher ratio of premium wine to overall production than does California.

Knowledgable wine writers, especially ones with publications that are influential with the well-educated and well-informed are not interested in writing about mass market wines. Last Jaunary, I noted that Washington wines are getting increased media exposure, a trend that would continue to grow. Check out the monthly "Washington Wine Roundup" in Sean Sullivan's Washington Wine Report to see what's being written about Washington wines around the country. There's a lot of interest in Washington wines out there, and cultivating the media is the key to getting the message out.

As for the trade (restaurants, supermarkets, retailers), this is largely preaching to the choir. But there is still work to be done. In my Review Blog posting of April 16, I noted our mixed experience in finding Washington wines in Santa Fe, New Mexico. One upscale restaurant's list was devoid of Washington wines and one restaurant/wine bar offered a few. Washington needs to overcome the notion among some sommeliers and wine merchants that somehow European and California wines are the only ones worth paying attention to.

In the wine industry, even the big players, new and established, see the benefits of positioning Washington as a producer of quality wines. Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest already have built a reputation for offering high quality-price ratios. And most observers agree that Gallo's acquisition of the Columbia Winery and Covey Run (whose future is uncertain) will be a plus for the industry as a whole.

So, in conclusion, I predict that Washington State will have a bright future as a producer of quality wine. And the Washington Wine Commission is on the right track in focusing on that through nation-wide and world-wide media and trade exposure. There is more work to be done, but we're heading in the right direction.

On Saturday, July 28th, Lynn and I went to the La Porte Brune Underground Dinner #18 which was held at the home of Dick and Luanne Boushey in Grandview and featured the wines of Jon Martinez's Maison Bleue Winery. The setting next to the Boushey's County Line Road Vineyard was spectacular, with a view of the Yakima Valley and the Horse Heaven Hills in the distance. Andre Bopp (Andrae's Kitchen) prepared a superb dinner and the food and wine pairings were spot on. Here is the menu and my comments.

Roast Cauliflower, Pickled Local Green Tomato, Fresh Mint, Toasted Pine Nut

2010 Maison Bleue Notre Vie Viognier, Arthur's Vineyard, Yakima Valley

This highly aromatic (pear, peach, lilac, honeysuckle), lush, yet dry wine complemented the acidty of the green tomato.

Seared Diver Scallop, White Gazpacho, Toasted Almond, Grape, Lardo

2010 Maison Bleue Petite Joie Marsanne, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley

This highly extracted, viscous white paired well, making a fine counterpoint to the sweet-dry gazpacho, grapes and toasted almond.

Roast Local Pork, Farro, Roasted Local Peach, Pickled Green Tomato

2011 Maison Bleue La Famille Rosé of Mourvedre, Yakima Valley

The slow braised nutty pork, sweet peach, and the recurring green tomato were nicely counterpointed by the full, dry raspberry and cherry flavors of the Rosé.

Braised Lamb Shank, Grape Gremolata, Curry Aioli, Pita

2010 Maison Bleue, Le Midi Grenache, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley

The thick, meaty lamb shank was braised to perfection. The lovely aromas (raspberry, cassis, lavender, violets) and mouth filling flavors paired beautifully with the grapes and spices.

Dark Chocolate Brownie, Bacon Cream, Salted Caramel Sauce

2009 Maison Bleue Liberté Syrah, Boushey Vineyard, Yakima Valley

This powerful Syrah (blackberry, blueberry, cassis) complemented the fat, chocolate and caramel of this dessert.

For pictures of the dinner, go to the Review of Washington Wines Facebook page.

The new releases from Maison Bleue will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines. For information about La Porte Brune, go to www.laportebrune.com.