More About the Cadaretta Southwind Vineyard

In last week's blog, I erroneously reported the name of the Cadaretta Winery's vineyard in the South Walla Walla Valley as "Windsong." How I came up with that, I don't know, but it is Southwind, the new name that was given to the Middleton lumber schooner when it was put into government service during World War II. Another elaboraton supplied to me by Cadaretta's winemaker, Brian Rudin, is that there are fractured basalt soils above the 1250 foot level called "Lickskillet" which is classifed as very stony loam. A Middleton Family Wines Synopsis on the "F Block" describes it as "a 7.8 acre swath of land untouched by the Missoula Floods." To render this block plantable, deep soil ripping was done to break up the rock and incorporate the weathered minerals into the upper soil profile. The resultis a truly unique terroir, and it will be exciting to see what results from it.

A Rosé Wine Tasting

Last Wednesday, May 30, our tasting group got together for a tasting of International Rosé Wines. The top wine was the 2011 Domaine La Bastide Blanche Bandol from Provence. A close runner up was Maison Bleue's 2011 Rosé of Mourvedre, made from the same grape variety as used in Bandol. It was a nearly dead ringer, with a pale copper color, wonderful aromatics and a dry, minerally finish. A full review of Jon Martinez's wine will be in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines. Honorable Mentions go to Trey Busch's 2011 Sleight of Hand "The Magician's Assistant" Rosé of Cabernet Franc and 2011 Renegade Wine Co. Rosé (reviewed in the June issue). Both offer teriffic value, being priced at $17 and $10, respectively.

Speaking of Rosés, I happened to be in Tertulia Cellars this afternoon and winemaker Ryan Raber poured me his new 2011 Rosé Wine from th Lonesome Spring Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, A blend of 73% Mourvedre, 24% Counoise and 3% Grenache, it shows a brilliant copper color and well extracted, but not overly so, lively, yet dry fruit flavors. The Counoise lifts the aromatics with notes of jasmine, litchee nuts and exotic perfumes. A full review will be in the July issue.

Liquor Privatization: Day One

Today, June 1, Washington State is out of the liquor business. The state stores are now under private ownership. There is still a lot of speculation as to how it will affect prices. A check in Walla Walla of a few supermarkets and the one and only freestanding liquor store (now Walla Walla Liquor Mart). Safeway had Johnny Walker Black Label Scotch for $40.99 (Club Price), only a dollar more than the WSLCB price. Albertson's had Hennesy VS Cognac for the 34.48, 53 cents more than WSLCB. At Super 1, though, I found the most self-serving and hypocritical situation. Instead of showing the consumer price on the shelf, the store showed the before taxes prices, with the taxes to be added at checkout. There was a sign in the liquor department showing the various taxes, wholesaler and retailer and liquor excise taxes. I shall not be buying my liquor at that store. The Liquor Mart purchased the state store's inventory and was selling liquor at the same state prices (with the same price tags). At the supermarkets, I saw no evidence of reduced shelf space for wine, an issue that some opponents of Initiatve 1183 pointed to.

I also checked Esquin's website (now Esquin Wine & Spirits). The front page of the pdf version of the June newsletter featured Northwest Craft Spirits and below were other spirits at what appear to be competitive prices, for example, Johnny Walker Black at $34.99. Who says liquor prices are going up? And as time goes on the liquor business will get more competitive, especially with retailer direct purchasing from distillers. It will be the self-serving hyprocrites, including the greedy middlemen, who will be the losers.

Yesterday (Thursday, May 24) Lynn and I visited the Cadaretta Winery's Windsong Vineyard in the south part of the Walla Walla Valley. To get there, we drove down into Oregon on Highway 11 to Sunnyside Road, where we met Cadaretta's winemaker, Brian Rudin. From there, we drove to County Road and then up a gravel road to the top of the vineyard.

The Windsong vineyard comprises a unique terroir. The top sits high above the valley below, known as "The Rocks' for its cobblestone laden soil from the old Walla Walla riverbed before it changed to its present course. Windsong, therefore, is situated above the Missoula Floodlands. Here, on top, there are two to five foot deposits of loess silt loam which typifies the Walla Walla Valley in general, but below are basalt rock deposits, sometimes outcroping above the soil. During the course of 17 million years, some of this iron rich rock has decomposed into calcium oxide, along with silica and magnesium. Brian also took us to a trench cut on the side of the slope, showing the layers of soil and rock though which the vines will take root. Growing grape crops here is a costly proposition, as water has to be pumped up to the vineyard for irrigation (there is not enough rainfall for dry farming).

The south facing slope is planted with two French clones of Syrah. The purpose is to stress the vines by planting in poor soil, thereby reducing crop yields with small berries that produce high quality Syrah. The north facing slopes are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Beause of the high elevation, exposure is optimal as the course of the sun sweeps in an arc for much of the daytime. Brian is very excited about the prospect of making wines from these new sites. The first crop from these vines will be harvested next year (2013). We, too, are looking forward to the results of this project.

The Windsong Vineyard, by the way, takes its name from the renamed Cadaretta, the Middleton Lumber company's shipping schooner, which was conscripted during World War II and rechristened Windsong.

See the Review of Washington Wines Facebook page for pictures taken at the Windsong Vineyard.

Two Winemaker Dinners

Early May saw two great winemaker dinners in Walla Walla.

The first was the Third Annual Winemakers Dinner featuring Flying Trout and Tero Estates on Saturday, May 5. The menu was created by the Marcus Whitman master chef Antionio Campolio to complement the wines. The menu:

Hamachi Crudo with a Pineapple Carpaccio - 2010 Flying Trout Torrontes (from Argentina, made by Ashley Trout)

Iberico Pork Belly and Aligator Vol-au-Vent with Blue Mountain Morels - 2009 Flying Trout Mary's Block Malbec

Roasted Rack of Cerveza Farms Venison Chop with Hand Rolled Black Truffle Gnocchi - 2009 Tero Estates "S.T." Red

Eye of Montana Bison Rib Eye with Crater Lake Blue Cheese Puddding - 2008 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley

Chocolate Souffle with Macerated Strawberries and Hazelnut Toffee - 2008 Tero Estates Merlot, Walla Walla Valley

The new releases from the two wineries will be reviewed in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

A week later, on May 12, Reynvaan Family Vineyards hosted the La Porte Brune Underground Dinner, a venue that was not revealed until the day before. It was held on the patio in front of the winery in the foothills of the Bue Mountains. Here is the menu prepared under the direction of Andrae Bopp (Andrae's Kitchen) with the wine pairings.

Passed appetizers - 2011 Fjellene Cellars Rose of Syrah

Arugula, Bacon, Kimchi Apples and Goat Yogurt Salad - 2007 Reynvaan Queens Road White, Walla Walla Valley

Andouillettes with Grilled Onion and Frittes - 2010 Reynvaan Reserve, Foothills in the Sun Vineyard

Five Spiced Seared Duck Breast - 2008 Reynvaan "The Contender" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley

Braised Lamb Shank with Parsnip, Chorizo and Rhubarb Hash - 2007 Reynvaan "In the Rocks" Syrah

Cherry Claflouti with Cocoa - 2009 Reynvaan "The Unnamed" Syrah

The 2010 Foothills in the Sun will be reviewed in the June issue

Mark Ryan to Open a Walla Walla Tasting Room

A few weeks ago, there was a rumor that the Mark Ryan (Mark McNeilly) Winery of Woodinville was going to open a tasting room in Downtown Walla Walla, a reversal of the usual situation of opening of a tasting room in Woodinville by a Walla Walla winery. The rumor was confirmed when an orange Liquor License Application was posted on the window of the space next to Starbuck's formerly occupied by Tru Cellars. Nobody seems to know why Tru Cellars left, but I wonder if a winery could make it in Walla Walla only with sparkling wines and Gewurztraminer. The Mark Ryan tasting room opening is expected in June.

Countdown to Liquor Privatization

Yesterday, I was in Safeway on East Rose and saw workmen taking merchandise off shelves for a major rearrangement of the store's shelf space, evidently to make room for spirits. At Super 1, shelves had been erected in the space opposite the checkout lines. Product tags were being attached. The section was partitioned off by a wall of bathroom tissue, but I could see a corner with tags for Hennesy and Courvoisier Cognacs. I went across the street to the WSLCB store and found the employees upbeat. They most likely are going to be kept on by the new owner. The shelves were well-stocked, and indication the owner is buying the inventory as well. Privatization, commencing June 1st is only 15 days away

Spring Release Weekend in Walla Walla, May 4 - 6, was one of the busiest in recent years. The tasting rooms everywhere were busy and sales were brisk. Here are some highlights.

On Friday morning, Lynn and I first stopped at Bunchgrass, where we tasted the new 2009 Founder's Blend and 2009 Malbec, to be reviewed in July. In the afternoon, we went to Long Shadows where we met up with Bob Kaplan, a Lakeside School classmate (our class will be getting together for our 50th Reunion in June). There, we tasted a fine 2011 Poet's Leap Riesling and 2008 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon (July issue). After that, we went to Abeja where we sampled the new releases: 2011 Chardonnay, 2010 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (July). Then we drove out to the end of Cottonwood Road to Reynvaan where we revisited the 2010 Syrahs, along with the newly previewed Foothills in the Sun Estate Reserve (to be reviewed in June). Later in the afternoon, we attended the Corliss Winery Event. In the evening, we attended the Robison Ranch Cellars Club Party where a good time was had by all.

The next morning, Bob and I went to Leonetti where we tasted the 2010 Merlot and 2009 Cabernet, and Bob picked up his allocation. Then we drove out on Mill Creek Road to Walla Walla Vintners (new 2010 Sangiovese and Cab Franc) and aMaurice (2010 Viognier, 2009 Syrah, Malbec and "Cummings" Red), all to be reviewed in July. After that, we went to Figgins (a new Figgins family project - see the May issue for the 2008 Red, July for the 2009 vintage). We had learned that Canoe Ridge had reopened in the old Railroad Freight Station on West Cherry Street, so we checked that out. In the evening, we went to the Tero Estates / Flying Trout Winemakers' Dinner at the Marcus Whitman Hotel. The five course dinner, created by Master Chef Antonio Campolio, was sumptuous, paired with both wineries' new releases (watch for the June issue). After dinner, we walked back under the fullest new moon of the year.

Watch for the June and July issues of the Review of Washington Wines for reviews of the above wines.