Winemaker Comments on My Reviews
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Winemaker Comments on My Reviews
In the process of producing each issue of the Review of Washington Wines, I email copy of the reviews to the winemakers to check for accuracy. The replies I receive often have comments on my reviews. Here are some that I received about reviews that will be in the November issue which goes on line October 25.
From the Mongata Winery on the South Fork of the Walla, I got this from Scott and Vicki Nokleby, Founders and Partners: "For both Scott and I, reading and experiencing this has been fantastical. We wouldn't want to change or add a single thing in this beautiful music to our ears. We love and appreciate the thoughts and so many awesome textured words.I want to open a bottle of each right this minute!" Vicki added, "...how amazing to see the sensory experience you drew up for the Resurgent vineyard place of wines."
I replied, "Thanks for your kind words. For me, the most rewarding aspect of being a wine writer is making discoveries of new wineries that are dedicated to quality such as yours."
Here are comments from a couple of other winemakers.
Rich Funk, Saviah Cellars: "Your wine descriptions sound like a beautifully written poem, thanks for the excellent write up of our first Tempranillo from The Stones Speak vineyard."
Devyani Gupta, Valdemar Estates: "Thank you so much for visiting us this weekend. I love your copy on the 2019 Klipsun Cabernet. Many of your descriptors match a rather daring food pairing we will be doing for fall release dinner (spoiler - it includes olive...and chocolate!)."
A Visit to the Mongata Winery
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- Written by Rand Sealey
One of the most talked about new wineries in the Walla Walla Valley is Mongata. Our next door neighbors had visited there and recommended it to us. So we thought we should check it out.
On Sunday, October 9, we drove down to Milton-Freewater and the five miles east to the South Fork of the Walla Walla River where we found the Mongata Winery, located in the Resurgent Vineyard by the River. There, we met Scott and Vicki Nokleby, Founders and Partners. We already had some familiarity with the Resurgent Vineyard from wines made by Canvasback and Prospice Cellars, but this was the first time we've had wines from Mongata which owns the vineyard. Situated at an elevation if 1440 feet, 17 acres of vines are planted, 5 of Chardonnay (the first vintage to be 2022), 5 of Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 of Syrah and 2 of Viognier. Soils are composed of riverbed cobblestone and basalt in a canyon formed by river erosion. The production of the 2020 vintage was 380 cases and in 2021, 850 cases, with projections going to 1500 cases. The winery has an active club. "The Strawberry Moon Club" and "Blue Moon Club." There are wedding and private events as well as Winery events. The winery is in a barn built in 1912. Peter Devison is the winemaker, Damon Lalonde the vineyard consultant and Lance Bullock the vineyard manager.
During our visit, we tasted the winery's inaugural vintages. Here are capsule tasting notes. Full reviews to be in the November issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
2021 Mongata Estate Rosé of Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Resurgent Vineyard ($28) - This 100% Syrah presents a copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, currant and orange with floral scents and bright, vivid flavors that pick up creme fraiche and orange peel on the lingering dry finish. 19/20 points.
2020 Mongata Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Resurgent Vineyard ($48) - This is a dramatic Syrah with perfumed aromas and black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, black tea and cobblestone minerals, along with orange peel, glove leather and a savory moderate tannin finish. 19+/20 points.
2020 Mongata Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Resurgent Vineyard ($54) - Co-fermented with 10% Syrah and blended with a bit of Cab Franc, this offers intense aromas of blackberries, black cherries and plums, with bold yet refined dark fruit flavors that keep on going into a lingering satiny tannin finish, marked by precise fruit acids. 19+/20 points.
The name Mongata, by the way, is a twist on the Swedish word "Mangata," meaning "path of the moon." The winery's card says, "There's a new Winery in town well, just a little out of town...it's worth the drive." Yes, it's a reward to visit. Go to mongatawinery.com for more information and appointments.
Wine News & A Medley of International Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Harvest 2022 Under Way
This year's grape harvest is now well under way. This year's crop is still two to three weeks later than normal due to the cold spring and hot summer. But things are looking hopeful as moderate temperatures in the 80's, easing into the mid 70's are forecast for the next two weeks. And growers and winemakers are happy with what they're bringing in.
Ste Michelle Wine Estates Realigning
This week's big news was the announcement that Ste Michelle Wine Estates (SMWE) is being realigned into three divisions: Washington, Oregon and California. David Dearie has departed as CEO of SMWE. Toby Whitmoyer will be President of the Washington division. According to Ryan Pennington, VP of communications, "We've got three distinct businesses with three distinct sets of challenges and opportunities." Here, "challenges and opportunities" are the key words. It will be interesting to see how this plays out.
For more about this realignment, see Sean Sullivan's northwestwinereport.com.
A Medley of International Wines
Here are some interesting wines from around the world that we've tasted recently.
French Wines
N.V. Lillet Aperitif Wine ($28 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Produced in Podensac, south of Bordeaux, from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes and fortified to 17% alcohol, this is a delightful wine. It offers a brilliant straw-gold color and aromas of pear, peach, melon, lime, with scents of pear blossoms and meadow flowers. The flavors are brisk and lively, with white fruits that are accented by notes of herbs, ginger, quinine and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with poire William liqueur and lemon custard on the moderately sweet finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Bouvet Rosé Brut "Excellence" ($22.99 - Safeway) - Bouvet is a popular brand of sparkling wine in France. This shows a brilliant copper color, streaming bubbles and aromas of strawberry, cherry, orange, cherry blossoms, and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are bright and lively, marked by grape skins, cherry stones and alluvial minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with kirsch and Cointreau liqueurs, followed by a crisp true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Charles Jouget Chinon Rosé ($26 - The Thief) - Produced from Cabernet Franc, this Loire Rosé displays a brilliant copper-tinged pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, blood orange, pink roses and pink lilac. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with vivid pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and alluvial minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and kirsch liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a lingering dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Château de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé ($23.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This is a striking Rosé. Flamingo colored, it emits intriguing aromas of wild strawberry, blood orange, persimmon, orange blossoms and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with mouth filling red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, orange peel and stony minerals. The back picks up fraise and Cointreau liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a well extracted dry finish. One of the most interesting Rosés tasted so far this year. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Delas Côtes du Rhône ($16.99 - Safeway) - From a respected producer, this offers a medium ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, red roses, tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs) and whiffs of spiced incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, medium roast coffee beans and earth. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed berries, roasted nuts, kirsch and soft charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.
2020 Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières Lirac ($21.90 - Foodscape) - Lirac is situated across the Rhône River, west of Châteauneuf du Pape. This shows a ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, currant, red plum, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa. black tea and minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a supple, acid lifted moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Domaine Notre Dame des Pallierès Gigondas ($31.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah, this displays a deep ruby color and a rich nose of raspberry, brambly currant, plum, crushed roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with thick, generous red and purple fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and Montmirial earth and minerals On the back, the wine intensifies, with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by s spiced (nutmeg, clove) ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine du Terme Gigondas ($32.99 - wine.com) - This South Rhône shows a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, crushed roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine takes a vigorous turn, with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a firm yet ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
Italian Wines
2021 Pieropan Soave ($26.99 - Albertson's) - This is an attractive Veronese white, produced from the Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. It displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, white peach, Casaba melon, pineapple, lime, apple blossoms elderflowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are exquisitely wrought, with notes of pear and peach stones, melon rind and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs and touches of almond and lime curd on the finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 La Scola Gavi, "Valentino" ($20.99 - Safeway) - Produced from the Cortese grape in the Piedmont, much Gavi is drunk in Liguria with seafood. This version shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, pineapple, melon, citrus, pear blossoms, jasmine and whiffs of wintergreen and yellow incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with notes of grape and pear skins and hillside minerals. The resonance continues on the back with pear liqueur, melon rind and lemon zest, followed by s brisk, dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Livio Felluga Friulano, Collio Orientale ($30.99 - wine.com) - This is a striking white from the northeastern corner of Italy. It shows a brilliant gold color and a richly aromatic nose of pear, peach, mango, grapefruit, pear blossoms and hints of wintergreen and butternut. The flavors are simultaneously crisp and viscous, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs and touches of almond, ginger and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp, resonant finish. 19/20 points.
Greek Wine
2017 Domaine Karydas Naoussa ($32.99 - wine.com) - Produced from the Xinomavro grape, this red wine exhibits a deep ruby color and intense aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, black roses, Latakia tobacco, Grecian lavender and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with fleshy yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with licorice root, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, nougat and ground charcoal, followed by a supple tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
New Zealand Wines
2021 Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke's Bay ($18 - The Thief) - This offers a light straw color and floral aromas of apple, melon, grapefruit, passion fruit, apple blossoms, meadow flowers and a hint of wintergreen. The flavors are brisk, yet well fruited, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with with apple liqueur and a bit of grassiness, followed by a crisp, juicy finish. 18+/20 points.
2021 Te Mata Gamay Noir, Hawkes Bay ($25 - the Thief) - This is almost a ringer for a Cru Beaujolais. Brick red colored, it emits engaging aromas of strawberry, currant, plum, orange, red roses, mulberry, tobacco and whiffs of incense. The flavors are ripe and round with notes of red licorice, cola, orange pekoe tea and earth. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed fruits, strawberry liqueur, orange peel and toast, followed by a ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
Harvest 2022 Update & Looking Ahead to November
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Harvest 2022 Update
As of this writing, the 2022 grape harvest is still two to three weeks behind normal. A cold, wet spring led to late flowering and a hot summer with many days with 100 plus degree temperatures also slowed the grapes' development. At this point, most grapes harvested are white, with some Merlot and Syrah. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon still have a ways to go yet. Winemakers are constantly checking brix, Ph and acid levels on a block by block basis. The fruits can still be ripe even if the numbers are not what they should be. What winemakers are looking for are flavor metrics that indicate what the wine will taste like when made. So far, the grapes' quality levels are high, so the vintage looks promising. The weather forecast looks good, with mild temperatures and fair skies. So let's keep our fingers crossed, and hope to avoid a compressed harvest like 2011.
Fruit Acids: A Glossary
Because fruit acids play an important role in wines' flavor profiles (especially in 2022), here's what different acids add to wines.
Citric Acid - This is present in citrus fruits: lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruits and in wine adds citrus aromas (especially in whites) and sometimes in red wines (orange and or orange peel).
Malic Acid - This is the acid that is present in apples and pears and in wines impart "appley" aromas and flavors. It can be a precursor of lactic acid which occurs from malolactic fermentation (see below).
Lactic Acid - This is the 'dairy" acid, occurring in milk, cream and cheese. In higher levels, it can be sour (as in "sour cream"). Malic acid can be reduced to lactic acid through malolactic fermentation to lower the overall acidity and to add a "creamy" texture to a wine.
Tartaric Acid - This is widely present in grapes. Sometimes it can precipitate out into crystals which look like broken glass. In wines, tartaric acid adds tartness. A typical wine that is high in tartaric acid is Barbera, an Italian Piedmont variety that can be described as tasting like tart cherries.
Looking Ahead to November
I am now working on the November issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line October 25. In it, there will be many new releases from the Walla Walla Vally, including Aluvé, Bergevin Lane, The Walls, Isenhower Cellars and others. Coverage will be expanded with reports on VanArnam Vineyards in the Yakima Valley and Amos Rome in Chelan. There will be a goodly number of 2020 reds. For more abut that vintage, see below for the 02 September posting, "Here Come the 2020 Reds."
A Medley of European Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Frequently, in addition to American wines, we drink ones from the Old World as that is where winemaking began. Here, we have a medley of wines from France, Italy, Austria and Greece.
France
2021 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay ($16.99 -Safeway) - The Mâconnais is where Chardonnay originated (there is a village named Chardonnay in that region). This one from a highly respected Burgundy negociant offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and aromas of apple, white peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are pure, unbaked, with notes of grape and apple skins and Mâconnais minerals. The back picks up apple and peach liqueurs and a twist of grapefruit peel on the way to a pleasingly juicy finish. 18/20 points.
2021 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($16.99 - Safeway) - Produced from the Gamay grape, Beaujolais is fun to drink. This version shows a purplish ruby color and ripe aromas of strawberry, cherry, blood orange, red currant, red roses, lilac and orange pekoe tea leaves. The flavors are medium bodied yet mouth filling, with red fruits that are mixed with red licorice, cola, tea and earth. The back picks up cerise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by as pleasingly juicy finish. 18/20 points.
2020 Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas "Tradition" ($22.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais displays a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, red currant, plum, crushed red roses, lilac, sweet tobacco and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors are robust, yet accessible, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine tightens up a bit, with macerated fruits, mocha and framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a deliciously ripe yet focused moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine des Marrans Fleurie, "Les Marrans" ($26.99 - wine.com) - This is another delightful Cru Beaujolais. It offers a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of raspberry, black currant, crushed black roses, lilac, sweet tobacco, lavender, olive, sage and sweet incense. The flavors are simultaneously lavish and well structured, with black and red fruits that are underlain with red licorice, bittersweet chocolate, French roast and granitic minerals. The appeal continues on the back with framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha and toffee, followed by a ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Domaine Besson Givry 1er Cru, Le Petit Prétend ($44.99 - wine.com) - This is a lovely Pinot Noir from the Côte Chalonnaise. It displays a deep ruby-crimson color and a perfumed nose of strawberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, lilac, sweet tobacco, anise, violets and sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with lavish red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and Saone Riverside minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, nougat, kirsch and crème de cassis liqueurs and a bit of soft charcoal on a lingering, silky moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2019 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirial" ($40.99 - wine.com) - From 45 year-old vines, this is an estimable South Rhone red. It displays a deep ruby-crimson color and intoxicating aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender, olive and spiced sweet incense. The flavors are simultaneously supple and vigorous, with layers of red and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, cacao, black tea and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine takes a lavish turn, with framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, nougat, lanolin and stick charcoal, followed by a spiced (nutmeg, clove) grainy yet smooth tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2020 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($46.99 - wine.com) - We have liked previous vintages and this is be best yet. Composed of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% barrel fermented Roussanne, it displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, nectarine, Casaba melon, citrus, apple blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and sweet white incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, with yellow fruits that are interwoven with grape and pear skins and minerals. On the back, the wine takes a dynamic turn with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and lemon custard, followed by a lingering, ultra precise fruit acid finish. 19.5/20 points.
2020 Famille Perrin Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Les Sinards" ($42.99 - wine.com) - Not much white CdP is produced and this is a real find. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and a highly aromatic nose of Bosc pear, white peach, pineapple, citrus, pear tree blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and whiffs of white incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with intermixtures of yellow fruits, grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. On the back, the wine takes both crisp and viscous turns, with poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon custard, followed by a bright, juicy finish. 19/20 points.
2019 Famille Perrin Châteauneuf de Pape, "Les Sinards" ($45.99 - wine.com) - Aged in 50% stainless steel and 50% oak, this offers a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, crushed roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and mas minerals. The back reveals pressed berries, roasted nuts and framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by s thick, generous yet focused finish. 19/20 points.
2019 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape, Cuvée Speciale, "Les Hauts Brusquières" ($79.99 - wine.com) - This is a stellar CdP. It exhibits a brilliant ruby-crimson color and intoxicating aromas of fraises de bois, mure, cassis noir, blood orange, crushed back roses, tobacco leaf, lavender, sandalwood, olive tapenade and spiced oriental incense. The flavors are simultaneously bold and velvety, with layers of red and black fruits that are infused with black licorice, Swiss chocolate, French roses and high elevation old vines minerals. On the back, the wine takes a lavish turn with fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and orange peel, all followed seamlessly by a lingering spiced (nutmeg, clove) ripe finish, marked by precise tannins and fruit acids. 19.5/20 points.
Italy
2021 Cantina Zaccagmini Pinot Grigio, Colline Pescari ($19.98 - Super 1) - This is quite a cut above the usual Pinot Grigio. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of green pear, Casaba melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, white lilac, lemongrass and yellow incense. The flavors are brisk and lively, with yellow and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with gently pressed fruits and touches of nougat, melon rind and grapefruit peel, followed by a juicy fruit acid lifted finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti, "Le Orme" ($26.99 - Safeway) - Deep ruby colored, this wine emits rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, brambly currant, black roses, tobacco, black olive and stick incense. The flavors are robust, yet well rounded, with generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, Italian roast and hillside earth. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted hazelnuts and tart cherries (a trait of Barbera) followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Austria
2020 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner "Federspiel" ($20.99 - Safeway) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this emits intriguing aromas of green pear, Casaba melon, lemon custard, pear blossoms, pea flowers, fennel and lightly spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting with yellow and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, melon rind and minerals. The back picks up pear liqueur, hazelnut and a touch of lemon custard on the way to a dry ("trocken") finish. 18.5/20 points.
Greece
2021 Gaia "14 - 18" Agiorgitiko Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - Agiorgitiko is the principal red grape of the Peleponese and, here, made into a Rosé with 14 to 18 sous skin contact. It shows a brilliant copper color and lovely aromas of wild strawberry, pomegranate, red currant, orange, red roses Grecian lavender and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with strawberry and currant liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a dry, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
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