I usually taste wines for the Review of Washington Wines at home, one at a time. This enables me to analyze each wine on its own merits, apart from stylistic qualities which can be partly subjective. Everyone has preferences for particular syles of wines. But my purpose is to score wines qualitatively, on the basis of how well they reflect their varietal character and overall complexity. At Lynn's suggestion, we tried comparing two wines of the same variety, tasted blind. We did this twice, both times with interesting results.

The first pairing consisted of two Malbecs of the same vintage, 2011. Here are the notes taken while tasting both blind.

2011 Malbec A

This Malbec offers a deep purplish color and smoky, spicy aromas of blackberries, cherries, blueberries, mulberries, crushed roses, and black violets. The medium full-bodied black and blue fruit flavors are deep and direct, marked by notes of red licorice, cocoa and minerals. On the back, the wine turns supple textured, with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, kirsch liqueur and dried cherries. The moderate fruit acids and sweet-dry tannins on the lithe light spice (coriander, cardamom) dusted finish makes for immediate appeal. 18.5/20 points.

2011 Malbec B

This wine displays a deep purplish color and rich aromas of wild blackberry, cherry, persimmon, crushed roses, bayberry, damp earth and rubbed sage. The palate presents a thick blanket of chewy textured flavors, with notes of chocolate, black tea and silty earth. The intensity continues on the back with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts abd dried cherries, followed by a long, savory dryish tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Qualitatively, both wines were nearly equal, but stylistically different. Malbec A was more perfumed and elegantly styled, while B was more bold and earthy. Tasting them blind served to point up these differences more than otherwise would have been.

The second pairing was of two Syrahs.

2011 Syrah A

This wine displays a deep purplish color and rich aromas of raspberry, mountain blueberry, persimmon, crushed roses, cigar tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. On the palate, the flavors are bold and direct, redolent of spiced fruits, intermixed with licorice, cola, roasted coffee beans, and scorched earth. The back revals sensations of roasted berries and nuts, and fruit confit., followed by a ripe, chewy sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2011 Syrah B

Deep pruplish ruby colored, it emits seductive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, lavender and violets. On the palate, the black and blue, true to variety, flavors are thick and decadently lavish, intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and scorched earth minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy, yet svelte, with gently squeezed fruits and notes of framboise liqueur, dried orange peel and pomegranate seeds. The richness continues on the spiced (nutmeg, clove) dryish yet smooth tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Both are meritorious, true to variety, Syrahs, qualitatively set apart by a half point. It was the perfumed aromatics that gave wine B the the edge over A.

Here, I have omitted references to the vineyard sources and AVAs for this article, in order to focuses on the stylistic diffferences which can be functions of both terroir and winemaking techniques. Full reviews of these wines will be in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines.