Last night (February 18th) the Sons of Bacchus and a Daughter of Dionysus met at the home of Jerry Solomon (Sleight of Hand) for a tasting of Gran Reservas. To be labeled Gran Reserva (principally Termpranillo, with a bit of Garnacha or Graciano) the wine must be aged two or more years in cask and three in bottle. All the wines tasted were 2001 or older, so it was a remarkable opportuntiy to tasted aged Riojas. Except for one corked wine, all the wines had held up remarkably well. There were three flights, and there was broad consensus among the tasters as to which wines were the best of each grouping. Here they are, with my notes and scores.

2001 Vina Olabari Gran Reserva - This was a tasty, tautly-structured classic Tempranillo, deep ruby colored, with sultry, smoky aromas of tobacco and cedar with deep, penetrating flavors. 19+/20 points.

1999 Puelles Gran Reserva - This showed a medium garnet color with aromas of roasted berries and nuts, tobacco, dried orange peel, and really classy medium-bodied flavors. This is a fine representation of the elegant style of Rioja. 19+/20 points.

1994 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva "904" - Medium garnet colored, this showed a mature bouquet of dried roses, berries and nuts, elegantly styled, medium=bodied. Drying out a bit, so this is a bit past its peak, but still showing remarkably well. 19+/20 points.

Other noteworthy wines:

2001 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva "904" - Nearing its peak, this showed a nose of crushed roses, orange peel and tobacco, with medium-bodied flavors, a bit more dry than sweet, with a long, elegant finish. 19/20 points.

1987 Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva - This was the oldest wine tasted and it showed remarkably well for its age. The mature nose showed roasted nuts, dried roses, tobacco and cedar. The flavors were dry and austere, yet still quite drinkable. 19/20 points.

1996 Vina Tondonia Rioja Blanco Reserva- This white was poured during an interlude. Composed of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia, it was remarkable for its age. Brilliant gold colored, it showed a smoky nose of apricot and toasted nuts, dry, yet fleshy, just slightly oxidized. 19/20 points. (Provided by Steven Maxood).

2005 Chateeau Suduiraut, Sauternes - After the tasting, Trey Busch provided a this. Deep golden colored, it was thick nutty and apricoty, but never cloying, with superb fruit acid balance. 19+/20 points.

 

A Couple of Noteworthy Wines

These two are out of the range for inclusion in the monthly Review of Washington Wines, but are worthy of mention. Both are worth having on hand for spring and summer drinking.

2013 Seven Hills Dry Rosé, Columbia Valley ($17) - This is too limited in supply to appear in a future issue of the Review. A shipment has gone out to Seattle and is already being snapped up. It is now being offered to the wine club, then to the public in a couple of weeks. It will go fast, so buy now. Composed of 70% Cabernet Franc and 15% each of Petit Verdot and 15% Malbec, it displays a pale copper color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink peach, pink grapefruit and papaya, with scents of white lilac and white violets. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skin and peach stone. The juiciness continues on the back with sensations of squeezed berries and tangerine peel, followed by a light dusting of spices (cardamom, coriander) on the nearly bone dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2012 Flying Trout Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina ($19) - This was made at Bodegas Don Bosco by Ashley Trout and Doug Roskelley, along with the winery crew, during their stint in Argentina last spring. Torrontes is a crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and other unknown varieties. This version is a bright, refreshing white. It offers a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, melon, apple blossoms, jasmine and stone. The flavors are crisp and lively, with notes of grape skin, peach pit, melon rind and Andean mountain minerals. The richness continues on the back with touches of creme fraiche and nougat, counterpointed by bracing fruit acids on the vibrant, dry finish. 18.5/20 points.