A few days ago, in regard to my February reviews of Angel Vine Washington Zinfandels (some of which were over 15% alcohol) a subscriber emailed me writing, "I'm always concerned when I see alcohol approaching over 15%. Maybe I was ok with it when I was younger, but I can taste the heat and frankly don't care for it - it's tiring - and that's true of any high alcohol California Zinfandels. My in laws love when it's almost 16% and I can't take  more than a glass....but they love it. You mention in your notes they are not 'hot' but I'm not sure how that can be. Any insight?"

I replied that "High alcohol is often a trait of Zinfandel, a variety that can stand up to higher alcohol. Petite Sirah and to some extent Syrah can also stand up to higher alcohol. When high alcohol puts a wine out of balance is when the fruit acid levels are lower, or if it's a lighter bodied varietal. Hotness is relative, some wines can have high alcohol and not seem hot, others do. So structure and acidity are the keys to whether a high alcohol wine is balanced or not. I don't ordinarily report alcohol content unless it's relevant. And I don't recommend wines if they are out of balance. I have noted lower alcohol levels, especially in regard to the cooler vintage 2011's."

What happens when a high alcohol wine gets out of balance is when, during harvesting, the sugar (Brix) levels in the grapes starts rising while at the same time, acid levels drop. The result is a "flabby" high alcohol wine. The fruit may still be there, but the wine comes out as a ripe, high alcohol, low acid "fruit bomb." I've run across of lot of these and they're not really pleasant to drink. Generally, when a wine gets over 15% alcohol, it has to have pretty good structure (body and acidity) to stand up to the "heat." Some time ago, I ran across a Carmenère that was 16.2% alcohol and the heat was evident even though it was full-bodied. There is a limit to how high alcohol can go before it gets overpowering.

It is no secret that Washington reds are fairly high in alcohol. In order to maximize the phenols that give wines aromas and complexity, the grapes need extended "hang time." Last year, for example, was a more "normal" harvest, yet many growrers held on into mid October to pick grapes. If you check the labels of Washington wines, you will usually see alcohol contents between 14 and 15 percent. It is with the cooler 2011 vintage, that you will see more wines coming in under 14%, which, along with drier tannins, gives the wines more of an "old world" character, something I have noted in reviews of wines from that vintage.

The subscriber who emailed me also asked about Washington Zinfandel, "Is it trending as a varietal. Is it an experiment or something serious in Washington." My reply was that there are a few areas in Washington that are suited for Zinfandel. One is the Wahluke Slope (Stone Tree Vineyard) and the Horse Heaven Hills (Alder Ridge). Both are warm areas. Besides Angel Vine (actually located in Carlton, Oregon, but making wines from Washington grapes), a few other wineries make Zinfandel (and Primitivo, a closely related clone), including Forgeron and Trio Vintners. But Washington Zinfandel is more of a novelty than a mainstream varietal.