Cabernet Franc Moves into the Forefront

Details

In wrapping up the March Review of Washington Wines (to go on line February 24), I noticed that there are six Cabernet Francs in that issue. This is a remarkably high number for a varietal that until recently played, for the most part, a supporting role as a blending grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and other "Bordeaux" varietals. Why this new interest in Cabernet Franc as a stand-alone or a predominat varietal?

Historically, Cabernet Franc has been regarded as a secondary "cousin" of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is grown in Bordeaux, especially on the Right Bank (St. Emilion and Pomerol), but is seldom more than 50% of the cepage. Only in the Loire Valley does it play a primary role as a varietal in the appellations of Anjou-Saumur, Chinon and Bourgeuil. It is a lighter bodied, earlier ripening (one or two weeks) variety than Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are small and blue-black in color with fairly thin skins (hence less tannic). In the U.S., significant plantings of Cabernet Franc were made in California in the 'seventies, and in Washington in the 'eighties. The first varietal bottlings in Washington were by the Columbia Winery in 1991 and Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1992. Since then, more varietal bottlings have emerged, to the point where there are a siginificant number.

Part of the increased interest in Cabernet Franc may be its acessibility, compared to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Being less tannic, they are drinkable at an earlier age. Often, they also show a distinct earthiness and berry-like fruitiness that make them food-friendly. For instance, the Tero Estate winery in the Walla Walla Valley makes a Cabernet Franc from the Windrow Vineyard which sells out not long after release. Other significant players are Seven Hills (McClellan Estate), L'Ecole No. 41 (Seven Hills Vineyard) and Owen Roe (Union Gap Vineyard in the Yakima Valley). And there is a bevy of other producers.

Watch for the March issue of the Review of Washington Wines a week from now for reviews of six new Cabernet Francs. And next week's Blog, also to go on line Februay 24, will report on a tasting of Loire Valley Cabernet Francs.