Washington, French & Argentinan Malbecs

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Is Malbec Washington's Cahors?

 

The Malbec grape is largely identified with Argentina, where the variety was transplanted from the Bordeaux region of France. But Washington Malbec, I believe, has a closer identity with another French wine district, Cahors which is situated in the Lot Valley southeast of Bordeaux.

 

There were significant plantings of Malbec in Bordeaux until 1956 when a deep frost killed many vines. Afterwards little Malbec was replanted there, and the variety dwindled into near extinction. But the variety persisted around Cahors where it was locally known as "Cot" or "Auxerrois" and sometimes blended with Merlot. It was known as the "black wine" of Cahors for its dark color and intensity.

 

Cuttings of Malbec were exported to Argentina in the mid 19th century, but subsequently were replaced by cheaper more productive varieties until the late 20th century when Malbec became replanted. Today, Argentina is identified with the Malbec grape. Much of it is exported to the U.S. as a popular wine that usually sells for under $10 a bottle. Here is an example:

 

2008 Bodega Belgrano "Conoisseur Select" Malbec, Mendoza ($10)

Deep purplish colored, this wine offers smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, blueberry and anise. The flavors are dense and darkly fruited, fairly direct, and laced with bittersweet chocolate, coffee grounds and licorice. The back shows notes of bitter almonds and dried cherries on a moderate tannin and acid finish. 17/20 points.

 

There are, to be sure, more serious examples of Argentinian Malbecs such as those from Lujan de Cuyo which is considered the best district in Mendoza for that varietal. But the bulk of Malbec exported from Argentina is commercial.


In the Cahors A.O.C., the terroir consists of alluvial deposits along the Lot River, with limestone substrate. The wines are typically full-bodied and darkly fruited, with notes of spice a nd coffee. The www.cahorsmalbec.com website for "The French Malbec" describes Cahors as having three distinct styles: "tender and fruity;" "feisty and powerful;" and "intense and complex."


Washington State Malbec began to be planted in the 1990's, notably in the original Seven Hills Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. I would identify most Washington Malbecs as being from the latter two of the above styles of Cahors. They are robust and full flavored and the better ones, complex and nuanced, as in the last style. Here are my reviews of six Washington Malbecs from recent issues of the Review of Washington Wines.


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2008 Cave B Malbec, Columbia Valley ($32)

This is a fine rendition of Washington Malbec. It displays a deep purplish color and an intense nose of blackberry, blueberry and black currant with scents of lavender and sage. The black fruits come on strong up front, spreading out like preserves. The back shows admixtures of licorice, chocolate, alluvial minerals, coffee grounds and graphite, followed by a squeeze of blackberry and blueberry juices on the ripe tannin finish. It resembles a French Cahors more than an Argentinean Malbec. 18.5/20 points.


2009 El Corazon “Supernova” Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills ($23)

From the Phinny Hill Vineyars, this wine has a dark purple color (indicative of a young red) and an intense blackberry and blueberry nose with scents of violets and whiffs of black pepper. The flavors are supersaturated, and spread out like blueberry preserves, intermixed with chocolate, licorice, and Horse Heaven scorched earth laid on a savory texture. The spicy, peppery finish is ripe and juicy, with sweet young tannins. Mighty tasty now, but will benefit from at least another years’ aging. 18.5/20 points.


2008 Flying Trout Malbec, Columbia Valley ($36)

Ashley Trout states, “This is one of the most floral malbecs I’ve made to date.” I agree. It exhibits a deep ruby color. The nose emits an intermixture of wild berries (cranberry, mulberry and raspberry) and scents of oriental perfumes (jasmine, hyacinth, attar of rose) and incense with hints of herbs and mint, and whiffs of black pepper. The dark fruit flavors are mouth encompassing, interwoven with licorice, minerals, graphite, mocha and coffee grounds. On the back, there are sensations of lightly roasted macerated berries, mixed with notions of toffee and squeezed berry juices. Unlike many Malbecs, which tend to be strong and direct, this is seamless and elegant, showing touches of roasted nuts, pain grille, coriander, and a final burst of exquisite fruit-acid juices on the lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.


2008 William Church Malbec, Yakima Valley, Gamache Vineyard ($30)

Deep ruby colored, this wine offers rich, sultry aromas of wild blackberries, currants, Damson plums, lavender, sage and oriental spices. The dark fruits are well saturated and chewy, imbued with tones of graphite, licorice, baker’s chocolate and roast coffee. On the back, squeezed blueberry and raspberry juices emerge, accented by touches of orange peel, toffee and spices, then glide into a ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.


2008 Reasons “Black Magic” Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills ($35)

Reasons is a new winery located in the Artifex facility, and is co-owned, with others, by Susie and Ned Morris (he is also winemaker at Canoe Ridge), This Malbec is impressive. It exhibits a dark ruby color and intense aromas of cherries, wild blackberries, blueberries, fennel, tobacco and dried rose petals. The intensity continues on the palate and is underlain with Horse Heaven scorched earth, roasted coffee beans, bittersweet chocolate and mocha. The back recalls the vigorous traditional-styled “black wine” of Cahors with its spicy (cinnamon, clove) earthy, dried fruit and chewy tannin character. 18.5+/20 points.


2007 Brian Carter Cellars “One” Malbec, Wahluke Slope, Stone Tree Vineyard ($48)

This is a stunning expression of terroir-driven Malbec. It displays a dark ruby color and an intoxicating nose of wild raspberries, cranberries, cherries, lavender, rubbed sage and violets. On the front, the dark fruit flavors are deep, savory and mouth encompassing. The penetration continues on the back, with sensations of licorice, bittersweet chocolate, scorched earth, cinnamon bark and spices (nutmeg, clove and pepper), all bathed in thick juicy roasted berries and kirsch liqueur. The fruit acids show superb equipoise with the sweet fine-grained tannins. Almost a 19.5-point wine. 19+/20 points.

 

Like Cabernet Franc in last week's blog (Loire Valley and Washington), our state's  Malbecs come on as being closer to its provincial France origins than those of the "New World." While Malbec continues to be identified with Argentina, Washington Malbecs, I think, are closer in character to the "black wine" of Cahors.

 

 


Malbec and Food Pairings - Washington Malbec, being a robust wine, goes best with hearty fare. Steak and Cahors wine is the classic combination in France's Lot Valley, and for Washington Malbec as well. Other good pairings are with a savory lamb stew or leg. I have found Malbec to go well with full flavored cheeses such as cheddar and Ossau-Iraty (from southwest France).