The WSLCB Stings Walla Walla Winery Tasting Rooms

When we were in Walla Walla the past few weeks, there was a lot of talk about the Washington State Liquor Control Board inspectors' sting of several winery tasting rooms. Liquor Board inspectors have the authority to use under age decoys to check on how well licensees do in asking for proof of age before serving and or selling alcoholic beverages. This is a legitimate function of the Board's inspection system. But it seems the inspectors overstepped their authority is some respects.

One of the ruses used was to have a young woman come up to the tasting room table with a bag containing wine to make it appear that the person had already been i.d.'d, leading the tasting room server to think asking for proof of age wasn't necessary. Then comes the "sting" and citation. However, possession of liquor by a minor is a misdemeanor, so the "decoys" and their handlers were breaking the law. The Liquor Board enforcement office has admitted the inspectors had overstepped their authority and the citations were reduced to warnings. For more about this sting and comments, go to Sean Sullivan's Washington Wine Report (wawinereport.com) and Paul Gregutt's paulg's blog.com.

What is absurd about this episode is that underage drinkers do not ordinarily go to wine tasting rooms to procure alcohol. Generally they go after cheaper products, especially beer. As one commenter put it, "The problem they are trying to prevent is real, and should be monitored but I would like to see the high school or college party at which underage people are consuming alcohol, that the primary source of booze is $20-$80 bottles of wine." The Liquor Board's Enforcement division should be putting its focus on convenience stores and the like rather than small boutique wineries.

Charles Smith Wines to Open a Tasting Room Downtown

Charles Smith Wines (which includes K Vintners as well as Charles Smith Wines) is opening its long-awaited tasting room on South Spokane Street, off Main. The target date is for "Cayuse Weekend" - April 8 - 10. When I drove by a few weeks ago, it looked like a lot of work still needed to be done. But I have heard that the project is still on target. The design work is by Olson Kundig Architects of Seattle and the drawings for the facility look fabulous.

The Young Guns Wine Society Organizes

A group of young Walla Walla winemakers have organized the Young Guns Wine Society. In late 2010, Justin Basel, age 26 (Basel Cellars), Cameron Kontos, age 31 (Kontos Cellars), Josh McDaniels, age 22 (Sweet Valley Wines) and Greg Makito, age 25 (Skylite Cellars) banded together to form this organization. Their mission statement: "The Young Guns Wine Society is dedicated to Defining the next generation of winemakers." For more information, go to the Young Guns's website and Facebook page.

A Couple More Super Buys in Washington Wine from Esquin

Last week, I listed several wines at new, deep discounts that were exceptional buys. Here are two more that have not been previously reviewed. They are real steals.

2008 Fidelitas Semillon, Columbia Valley (Was $20 - Now $9.99)

This 100% varietal white displays a brilliant gold color and an attractive nose of pear, cantaloupe and peach with scents of lilac, orange peel and sandalwood. The white fruit flavors are rich and viscous, with tones of anise, basaltic minerals, and fig. On the back, mandarin orange juices give the wine a tangy component which is counterpointed by touches of vanilla oak (from barrel fermentation) and beeswax, all adding up to a sensuous, flavorful white. 18+/20 points.

2007 Ash Hollow Reserve Malbec, Walla Walla Valley (Was $42 - Now $17.99)

Deep ruby colored, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and a rich, spicy nose of roasted blackberries and blueberries, with scents of dried roses, lavender and smoldering incense. The flavors are deep and well saturated, underlain with silty minerals, black licorice, bittersweet chocolate and coffee grounds. The flavors expand on the back, oozing with ripe, semi-macerated berry juices that pick up notes of mocha, spices, dried orange peel, roasted nuts and a grinding of black pepper on a savory ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.