Notes on Recent Winery Visits

During the past few weeks, we've been here and there around the wine country: Walla Walla, the Columbia Gorge and Woodinville. I will be reporting on these visits in the April and May issues of my Review of Washington Wines. Here, I'm giving you a preview of what's coming up soon and later.

The Columbia Gorge

On our way back from Bend, Oregon to Walla Walla, we stopped at Domaine Pouillon. I will be reviewing Alexis' and Juliet's new 2010 Gewurztraminer and 2008 Pierre Red in April. We also tasted a superb 2008 McDuffee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon which will be released this summer. Later, there will be a fine 2008 Tablas Creek clone Syrah and a sensational 2010 Viognier Ice Wine that comes in at 16% Residual sugar, balanced by bracing acidity (3.7 ph). Syncline Cellars will soon release a delicious Rose composed of one-third Pinot Noir and two-thirds Rhone varietals.

Walla Walla Valley

At Buty (named for Caleb's wife, Nina) I picked up samples of Caleb Foster's stellar new reds: 2009 Merlot-Cabernet Franc, 2008 Champoux Vineyard and 2008 Rediviva of the Stones, all scoring 19 points or higher. Watch for the reviews in the April issue.

Woodinville

Last Saturday (March 19) we drove to Woodinville and visited several wineries. One of them was Guardian Cellars where we tasted with owner-winemaker Jerry Riener. Two wines (2008 Syrah and 2008 Gun Metal) will be reviewed in April. The knockout wine was the 2008 "The Wanted" Red. Only 14 cases were remaining, not enough to put in the May issue (April had already been wrapped up), so here is my review.

2008 Guardian Cellars "The Wanted" Red, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($37)

This 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Cabernet Franc, comes from the Frenchman Hills near Othello. It is one of the thickest, suavest, most sensuous blends I've run across. Deep ruby colored, it emits a seductive wild berry nose with scents of lavender, rose petals, orange peel and oriental incense. The flavors are svelte, yet well-saturated, constituting a lavish intermix of ripe fruit, Swiss chocolate, licorice and earthy minerals. The back picks up notes of dried berries and cherries, recurring orange peel, creme brulee and spices (nutmeg, coriander, clove) on the way to a lingering toasty oak-laced (86% new French) supple tannin finish. This definitely a wine to be "wanted." 19.5/20 points.

We also visited Adams Bench where we tasted the 2008 Red Willow Cabernet Sauvignon. It came close to the 2007 which got 20/20 points last year. It will be reviewed in the May issue (19.5+/20 points). We also had the opportunity to compare the 2007 and 2008 Reckoning Red Blends (the 2008 reviewed in March - 19.5 points). The 2007 was showing better than the 2008 at the time, but I thought (and Tim Blue agreed with me) the 2008 had greater potential.

While in Woodinville, we visited a craft distillery in the Wine Warehouses district. It was the Project V Distillery and Sausage Company. It produces a vodka called "Single Silo," distilled from Washington winter wheat grown Joe and Anita Sprauer's family farm outside Withrow. Although most vodka is fairly neutral, this one was very clean and crisp and showed hints of toasted grain with a bracing hint of lemon. It is ideal for vodka martinis.