More Best Buys from Esquin

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 July 2020

Two weeks ago, I listed some wines from Esquin Wines & Spirits that were great buys. Last week, we stopped by Esquin on Fourth Avenue South in Seattle and picked up some more value wines, including some tasty Rosés.

2019 La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova, Toscana ($15.99) - This 50% Sangiovese, 50% Prugnolo Gentile combination shows a brilliant copper color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink peach , orange, cantaloupe, orange blossoms, summer flowers and orange incense. The flavors are deliciously crisp and lively, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and Tuscan hillside minerals. The back picks up strawberry liqueur and orange peel, followed by a brightly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Calvachina Bardolino Chiaretto ($17.99) - Bardolino is the town and Chiaretto is the Veronese name for Rosé. This versions shows a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, tangerine, pink roses, orange blossoms, summer flowers and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Lake Garda minerals. The back picks up raspberry and currant liqueurs and tangerine peel on the was to a crisp dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Fabre en Provence Côtes de Provence Rosé ($13.99) - Brilliant copper pink colored, this Rosé possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, red currant, tangerine peel, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with notes of grape skins, tangerine peel and Côte d'Azur minerals. On the back, the wine is enlivened by fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel on the nicely juiced finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Les Hauts du Vallon Bandol Rosé ($23.99) - Composed of 52% Mourvèdre, 22% Grenache and 26% Cinsault, this exhibits a brilliant light copper-pink color and perfumed aromas of strawberries, red currants, orange, pomegranate, orange blossoms, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are striking as well, with red fruits that are imbued with grape skins, pomegranate seeds and argil-calcareous minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel on the way to a beautifully extracted and vivid finish. The best Bandol for the price we've run across so far. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé ($20.99) - Marsannay is situated at the north end of Burgundy's Côte d'Or and is made from Pinot Noir. This version shows a brilliant copper-pink color and seductive aromas of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate red roses, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with bright red fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rosé, "Terre de Maimbray" ($27.99) - Sancerre Rosé is produced from Pinot Noir. This one shows a brilliant copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currants, cherry blossoms, orange peel and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with deftly extracted pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and calcareous minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a lingering, balanced finely fruited dry finish. 19/20 points.

2018 San Felice Chianti Classico ($14.99) - Composed of 80% Sangiovese and 10% each of Colorino and Pugntello, this is a serviceable Chianti. It shows a medium ruby color and aromas of cherry, red currant, plum, mulberry and stick incense. The medium bodied flavors are engaging, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, black tea and hillside earth. The back picks up squeezed currants and tart cherries, followed by a sweet-dry moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna ($16.99) - Cannonau is the Sardinian name for Grenache. This version shows a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and currant with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, orange peel, and spiced incense. The flavors are supple yet firm, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and volcanic minerals. The chewy textured back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a spice and pepper dusted moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhone, "Les Abeilles" ($13.99) - Les Abeilles ("The Bees") is composed of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It displays a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are supple, yet vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and stony earth. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts and charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Domaine Nôtre Dame des Pallières Gigondas, "Mourres" ($24.99) - Most Gigondas costs upwards of $30, so this is a great buy. Composed of 80% Grenache with 10% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah, it shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, black currant and orange peel, with scents of crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and incense. The flavors are supple yet substantial, with notes of licorice cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The back picks up framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a ripe chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

In Memoriam: Doug Roskelley

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 25 July 2020

It was shocking to learn that Doug Roskelley, co-owner and winemaker of Tero Estates, died of a heart attack on Thursday, July 16 at the age of 71. He will be greatly missed. Our sympathy goes out to his wife, Jan, and son, Kyle. We got to know the Roskelleys in 2008 when we visited the winery near Milton-Freewater; Jan come down from the balcony to greet us. We have been friends ever since.

In 2007, the Roskelleys, with Mike Tembruell, purchased the Hendricks' Windrow Vineyard, first planted in 1981, with Bordeaux grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. But Doug was a visionary who looked beyond the classic BDX varieties and planted blocks of Nebbiolo, the classic Piedmont grape, and Charbono, an ancient Savoie variety. The parent company, TR Wines, expanded its repertoire with the acquisition of the Waters and Flying Trout brands. All Doug's wines have been first-rate and have received high scores in the Review of Washington Wines. His winemaking and vision were first developed when he and John Bigelow in Woodinville made wine together. 

The news of Doug's passing produced an outpouring of appreciation for his legacy which is bigger than life. As Jodi Rozonowski, the TR Wines Operations Manager, put it, under his "tough exterior was a heart of gold." It was Doug who encouraged Jodi and Josh Rozonowski to launch their own winery, Smoky Rose Cellars. Doug, who was also a contractor, helped John and Peggy Bigelow build their JM Cellars winery in Woodinville. There were many instances where Doug lent a helping hand. The Roskelleys also supported non profits and community events such as the Rypien Foundation, the Walla Walla Chamber Music Festival and The Anatolian Shepherd Rescue Network. He worked with the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance and the Oregon Winegrowers Association as well. 

Lynn and I have warm memories of Doug - dinners with the Roskelleys, followed by Cognac and cigars, the fabulous TR Wines Holiday Dinners at the Marcus-Whitman, the vineyard Block Tours and more. Doug was always the generous and convivial host who took pride in his achievements, yet was modest. He will be missed, but never forgotten.

More French Wines: Rosé and Beaujolais

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 16 July 2020

In our continuing exploration of values in French wines, here are our latest discoveries in Rosés and Beaujolais with my notes and scores. Most of these wines came from the Thief Wine Shop in Walla Walla, a fine source for French wine values.

2019 Château de Campuget Costières de Nimes Rosé ($12.99 - Safeway $11.99 - Esquin) - This 70% Syrah, 30% Grenache combination shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of raspberry, cherry and currant, with scents of cherry blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and brisk with red fruits and stony minerals, lifted by fresh acidity on the finish. Great value. 18/20 points.

2019 J. Mourat "Collection" Val de Loire Rosé ($11 - 375 ml - The Thief) - This comes in a cute pot bottle. It shows a brilliant pink-rose color and a floral nose of strawberries, pink cherries, tangerine and red currants with scents of pink roses, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, imbued with fraise and kirsch liqueurs and stony minerals. The wine enlivens on the back with fresh juices on the crisp finish. "I love it," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château Soucherie "L'Astrée" Rosé de Loire ($23 - The Thief) - This wine presents a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of raspberry, pink cherry, red currant, tangerine, pink roses, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors are bright and sprightly, with light but well delineated fruits that are accented by cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with cassis and cerise liqueurs and tangerine peel, followed by a zingy lightly herbed finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Yves Cuilleron "Sybel" Syrah Rosé ($20 - The Thief) - Made by the saignée technique of bleeding off juice from red must, this shows a light copper-pink color and an expressive nose of strawberry, pink cherry, currant, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with bright fruits that are accented by grape skins and cherry stones. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs on the way to a lightly spiced dry finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Château de Manissy Tavel Rosé ($20 - The Thief) - Produced from organic grapes, this shows a brilliant copper-tinted pink color and intriguing aromas of wild raspberries, currants, pomegranate and blood orange, with scents of roses petals, orange blossoms, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a lightly spiced dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé ($27 - The Thief - $24.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant copper-pink colored, this Rosé emits striking aromas of wild strawberries, brambly currants, blood orange, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, orange peel and minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens, with fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a lightly spiced dry finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château Pradeaux Bandol Rosé ($35 - The Thief) - This is a top-notch Bandol Rosé. Brilliant copper-pink colored, it emits intriguing aromas of raspberry, cherry, blood orange, musk melon, rose petals, lavender and orange incense. The flavors, as well are dramatic, with full blown red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, melon rind and minerals. The wine intensifies further on the back with sensations of framboise and kirsch liqueurs, orange peel and light spices, followed by a textured lingering sweet-dry finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Domaine Paul Janin & Fils Moulin-à-Vent, "Vignes du Tremblay" ($24.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais displays a deep purplish ruby color and rich aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, crushed roses, mulberry, violets, anise and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously thick and generous, with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and schist minerals. The wine invigorates on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and kirsch liqueurs, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Les Marrans Fleurie, "Les Marrans" ($24.99 - wine.com) - From a single block, this offers a purple-crimson color and lovely aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, blood orange, crushed rose petals, sweet tobacco, anise, violets and whiffs of incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with bright red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a deliciously ripe yet firm tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Thillardon Chénas, "Les Blemonts" ($34 - The Thief) - Deep ruby colored, this wine emits intense aromas of raspberry, blueberry, and black currants, with scents of crushed black roses, bayberry, pipe tobacco, violets and smoldering incense. The flavors are thick, almost voluptuous, with layers of red and black fruits that are infused with licorice, black tea and schist minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with sensations of framboise and cassis liqueurs and sweet nuts, followed by a moderate tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie, "Les Labourons" ($38 - The Thief) - The back label states: "A south-western exposure, a soil of pink granite and an altitude of 400 M give elegance, minerality and tension." Produced with natural yeasts and unfiltered, it shows a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of raspberries, blueberries, black currants, black roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously fleshy yet forceful, with layers of black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee beans and granitic minerals. The well-textured wine intensifies on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a lingering persistently  minerally finish. 19/20 points.

Great Buys from Esquin Wine & Spirits

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 09 July 2020

Esquin Wine Merchants has always been a supplier of great wine buys as well as the classics. When I started in 1969, we had Gigondas, Beaujolais, Zinfandel and more. Today, under the ownership of the LeFevre family, Esquin continues to make great wine deals. There is a large section in the store for special purchases that offer terrific value. In my last shipment from Esquin, I had Arnie Millan, the wine buyer, put together a selection of Best Buys for review in this blog.

2019 Board Track Racer "The Vincent" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($14.99) - BTR is a Mark Ryan brand. This Syrah-Merlot combination sports a light copper-pink color and aromas of strawberry, cherry, tangerine, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and light minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Magician's Assistant" Cabernet Franc Rosé, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($17.99) - One of the best Cab Franc Rosés of the vintage, this is sold out at the winery, but Esquin still has it. Light copper colored, it possesses attractive aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms, and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with grape skins, cherry stones and Yakima Valkley alluvial minerals. The back reveals framboise and kirsch liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel on the finely fruited finish. Very likable, 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Cadaretta "SBS" White Wine, Columbia Valley ($12.99) - Cadaretta has closed down and the properties sold. This was $23 last year, now almost half price. SBS stands for 66% Sauvignon Blanc and 34% Semillon. It shows a brilliant straw-gold color and expressive aromas of pear-apple, Crenshaw melon, citrus, apple blossoms, meadow flowers and lemongrass. The flavors are lively but well textured, with notes of pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and a touches of beeswax and melon rind followed by a BDX-like dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($13.99) - This sells for $20 at the winery, but Esquin made a deal for $6 off. It offers a ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, sage and incense. The flavors are generous and direct, yet substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, and toffee followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2016 Red I.Q. Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($12.99) - This was produced and bottled by the Pamplin Family Winery ibn Sherwood, Oregon. A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot, it offers a ruby color and rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, black roses, tobacco, cedar and incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted nuts and graphite, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2018 Soléna "Grande Cuvée" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($22.99) - This one of the best Oregon Pinots for Under $25 that I've run across. This shows a deep brick red color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, cherries, brambly currants, crushed roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with medium bodied yet substantial red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, French roast and earth. The appeal continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha, toffee and integrated moderate tannin on the solid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga ($20.99) - This is a super "find." Verduno is a small town north of Barolo and Pelaverga is an ancient indigenous red grape. The color is medium garnet-rosé and the aromas are intriguing, redolent of red and orange fruits - raspberry, cherry, blood orange - with scents of semi dried rose petals, tobacco leaf and incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive with light medium bodied yet mouth filing red fruits with notes of red licorice, cola, herbal tea and hillside minerals. The back picks up cherry liqueur, orange peel and a touch of amaro, followed by a ripe finish that is lifted by a bit of fruit acid. Goes nicely with chicken. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Valdo Prosecco "Mara Oro" Brut ($13.99) - This a better Prosecco at the same price as popular brands such as La Marca. It offers a bright gold color, frothy bubbles and floral aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and stone. The flavors are fresh and zesty, with touches of hazelnut and toast on the dry true Brut finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Crous St. Martin Gigondas, "Les Espalieres" ($24.99) - Most Gigondas runs from $30 to $40, so this is a super buy. Composed of 80% Greanace and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, it shows a ruby-crimson color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, brambly currant, black roses lavender, olive and spiced incense. The flavors are generous yet focused, with red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cola, black tea and Montmirial minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Tridente Tempranillo, Castilla y Leon ($17.99) - This Spanish red displays an inky purple-ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of black fruits, black roses, Spanish lavender and incense. The flavors are thick and bold, with loads of dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, chicory coffee and Zamora Valley sand and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and mocha, followed by a warm sweet-dry tannin finish. Packs a lot of flavor for the modest price. 18.5/20 points.