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Since last week's Blog posting, we've tasted some more French wines. Here are my notes and scores.

2020 Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhone Rosé ($10.99 - Safeway) - This shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink peach, tangerine, pink lilac and pink lavender. The flavors are light and fresh yet well delineates, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and stony minerals. The back picks up fraise liqueur and orange peel, followed a crisp, nicely fruited dry finish. Lynn - two stars, Best Buy. A steal at $10.99. 18+/20 points.

See below for the Famille Perrin Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc and Rouge.

2020 Domaine de la Modorée Côtes du Rose Rosé, "La Dame Rousse" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 10% each of Cinsault and Carignaon, this displays a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of wild strawberry, red currant, blood orange, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are attractive, with bright orange and pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and mas minerals. The appeal continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a dry nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Miraval is a popular upscale brand in France. This vintage shows a brilliant salmon-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink peach, tangerine and pink currant, with scents of orange blossoms, pink lavender and whiffs of herbs and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with precise extraction and vibrant fruits that are accented by peach stone and hillside minerals. The charm continues on the back with gently pressed fruits and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a lingering, faintly honeyed dry finish. Shows balance throughout. Lynn: 3 stars, highest rating. 19/20 points.

2020 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé ($28 - The Thief) - Brilliant copper-gold colored, this emits intriguing aromas of wild raspberries, pomegranate, orange peel. lavender, orange blossoms and orange tea. The flavors are mouth-filling, with bright pink and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and Mediterranean hillside minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens with squeezed fruits, framboise liqueur and recurring orange peel, followed by s brisk finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rosé ($27.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Sancerre Rosé is made from Pinot Noir. This one shows a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, peach, pink cherry, tangerine, cherry and orange tree blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, the essence of Pinot Noir Rosé, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a precise, finely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Franck Besson "Rose Granit" Sparkling Rosé, Methode Traditionelle ($20 - The Thief) - Produced from Gamay and disgorged in 2020, this presents a pale salmon-pink color, tiny bubbles and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry and pink grapefruit, with scents of pink roses, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors are delightfully bright and sprightly, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and rose granite minerals. The back is enlivened by CO2 and grapefruit zest, followed by a bracing Brut finish. Terrific value. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Figuère "Atmosphere" Sparkling Rosé, Extra Brut ($30 - The Thief) - This 50/50 Cinsault, Grenache combination offers a brilliant light copper-pink color, pin point bubbles and enticing aromas of wild strawberries, pink peach, orange peel, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing with bright, lively pink fruits that are enlivened by grape skins, peach stones, CO2 and stony minerals. The resonance continues on the back with fraise and pêche liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a lingering, bracing Extra Brut finish. A real gem. 19/20 points.

See last week's posting for the still 2020 Figuère "Signature Magli" Rosé.

2019 Schoffit Chasselas, Alsace, "Vieilles Vignes" ($21.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Most Chasselas comes from the Swiss Valais where it is called Fendant. This version shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Bosc pear, gooseberry, Crenshaw melon, Key lime, pear blossoms and green incense. The flavors are vivid, almost laser-like, with green and white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and saline minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with sensations of poire William liqueur, butternut, lime custard and melon rind, followed by a crisp yet silky finish. A real "find." 18.5/20 points. 

2018 Guy Breton Chiroubles ($36 - Foodscape) - This Cru Beaujolais displays a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, cranberries, red currants, crushed red roses, wild violets and whiffs of oriental incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet deep and mouth filling, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine rounds out yet stays focused, with fraise and cassis liqueurs, toasted nuts and light charcoal, followed by a satiny yet well defined finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Famille Perrin Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Les Sinards" ($43.99 - wine.com) - Most Châteauneuf du Pape is red, but a small amount of white wine is made. This one shows a brilliant gold color and rich aromas of ripe pear, white peach, honeydew melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine, butternut and yellow incense. The flavors are simultaneously viscous and bracing, with yellow and green fruits that are intermixed with pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The richness continues on the back with pressed fruits, toasted nuts, poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of creme fraiche, ginger and lemon zest, followed by a lingering lightly spiced finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Famille Perrin Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, "Les Sinards" ($41.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this wine emits seductive aromas of wild raspberries, blueberries, black currants, wild roses, tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous yet deep cored black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice root, cocoa powder, black tea and mas minerals and earth. On the back, the wine takes a chewy textured turn with macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha, framboise and cassis liqueurs, lanolin, kidskin and pepper, followed by a savory, lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

 

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In our continuing quest for affordable French wines, here are some we've tasted recently.

2020 Gavoty "Récital" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($23 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This presents a brilliant copper-tinged pink color and lovely aromas of wild strawberry, pomegranate, tangerine, red currant, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with deftly extracted grape skins, pomegranate seeds and Provençal hillside minerals. The resonance continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel on the dry, lightly spiced finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Figuière "Signature Magali" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($23 - The Thief) - Composed of 35% Grenache, 35% Cinsaulkt, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet, this features a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, pomegranate, tangerine, red currants, rose petals, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are pleasingly juicy, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seeds and stony minerals. The back picks up strawberry and currant liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel on the way lightly brisk finish. 18.5/20 points.

The above two wines are quite similar, with the Gavoty a bit spicier and the Figuière a bit crisper.

2019 Domaine Fenouillet Ventoux Rosé ($19 - The Thief) - Ventoux is situated in the southeast section of the Rhone Valley. This Rosé shows a light copper color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, pink cherry, tangerine, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted yet well delineated, with notes of gently pressed fruits and wind-blown (ventoux) earth. The back picks up gently pressed fruits, kirsch and framboise, and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a fresh, dry finish. 18/20 points.

2019 Domaine Michel Chignard Fleurie, "Les Moriers" ($26.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais is a real charmer. It displays a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, wild violets and stick incense. The flavors are mouth encompassing and vigorous yet supple, with delicious black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The penetration continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted nuts and framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a savory, slightly grainy ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, "Côte de Py" ($27.99 - wine.com) - This is another nice Cru Beaujolais. Deep ruby colored, to emits rich aromas of raspberry, currant, bayberry, crushed roses, tobacco, wild violets and whiffs of incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine intensifies with pressed fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a thickly juicy moderate tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Guy Breton Chiroubles, "Cuvée Léa" ($35.99 - wine.com) - This is Burgundian style Cru Beaujolais at it's best. It displays a deep brick red color and intense aromas of wild fruits - raspberries, cranberries, black currants - with scents of wild roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, lavender and oriental incense. The flavors show considerable old vine (60 years) character, with generous yet deep and penetrating fruits that are infused with licorice root, cocoa powder, black tea and hilltop granitic minerals. The wine intensifies further with macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and touches of kidskin and graphite (traits of old vine Gamay) followed by a lingering chewy yet smooth ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine de la Chapelle Pouilly-Fuissé, "Vieilles Vignes" ($37 - The Thief) - This comes from Catherine and Pascal Rollet's property (57 year-old vines) in Soulutré, one of the best climats in Pouilly-Fuissé. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, white peach, lemon custard, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors show wonderful Chardonnay character, with vivid white fruits that are accented by pear skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The textured back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of creme fraiche, lemon zest and butternut on the way to a silky lingering finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Côte d'Or ($35 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Magnien is a respected grower in Morey-St. Denis. Aged in amphorae, this exhibits a brick red color and a rich, smoky nose of dark fruits - blackberries, black currants and old tree cherries - with scents of black roses, pipe tobacco, black herbs, anise and incense. The flavors show considerable intensity for Pinot Noir, with dark fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The saturation continues own the back with macerated fruits, grilled nuts, kitsch and creme de cassis, followed by a deliciously thick, satisfying finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas, "Vieilles Vignes" ($32.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this possesses rich, smoky aromas of semi-dried fruits - raspberries, black currants, bayberries, orange peel - with scents of crushed rose petals, tobacco, garrigue, roasted meats and sultry incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, marked by licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and Montmirial minerals. The chewy textured back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha, framboise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a savory ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf du Pape, "Le Miocene" ($56.99 - Esquin) - It was during the Miocene Epoch that modern flora and Fauna emerged, including grape vines and cats. Composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre and other varieties, this exhibits a deep ruby-crimson color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, black currant, black plum, crushed black roses, sweet tobacco, lavender, sandalwood and smoldering spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous and deep cored, with red and purple fruits that are infused with licorice root, cocoa, black tea and argillocalleus minerals. On the back, the wine takes a precise turn with macerated fruits, roasted pecans, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and touches of suede leather and charcoal, followed by a lengthy, spiced (nutmeg, clove) warm (15% alcohol) sweetish tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

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Last Friday, June 11, Lynn and I drove over to Red Mountain and Prosser to see what's new there. The wines we tasted there will be reviewed in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line June 25). Here's a preview of some of our discoveries.

Red Mountain: The Place for Merlot?

Red Mountain is nor generally thought of as a place for the Merlot grape. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are considered the signature varieties, largely due to the reputation of the Ciel du Cheval and other vineyards. But in our visit, we tasted some highly impressive Merlots.

2017 Tapteli Merlot, Red Mountain ($38) - This is an engaging Merlot with aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, red roses, cedar and stick incense. The flavors are medium bodied nut substantial, with copious red fruits and a savory, satisfying finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Fidelitas Red Mountain Merlot ($45) - This 100% Merlot possesses bright aromas of raspberries, cherries, black roses, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are suave and accessible yet deep and focused and the appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits and a lingering spice and herb dusted sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Frichette Merlot, Red Mountain ($45) - Sourced from the Scooteney Flats and Quintessence vineyards, this offers rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, black currant, black roses and sultry incense. The flavors are simultaneously chewy and silky with integrated oak and suede leather on the long, slightly grainy finish. 19/20 points.

The "Black Wines" of Malbec

On Red Mountain and in Prosser, we came across some Malbecs that reminded us of the "black wines" of Cahors in central France where the grape originated. 

2018 Fidelitas Red Mountain Malbec ($45) - This displays an inky purple color and intense aromas of blackberries, blueberries, black currants and smoldering incense. The flavors are dark and brooding, yet accessible with loads of black and blue fruits and scorched earth. The back picks uo roasted berries and nuts, creme de cassis, followed by a firm yet sweetish finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Frichette Malbec, Red Mountain ($45) - From the Quintessence and Scooteney Flats vineyards, this boasts an opaque ruby-crimson color and intoxicating aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, juniper berry and sweet incense. The flavors are dramatic, with loads of black and blue fruits that are infused with cacao and scorched earth, followed by a saturated back and ripe tannins. 19/20 points.

2017 Wautoma Springs "Lil Inky" Malbec, Wahluke Slope, Stone Tree Vineyard ($28) - Nearly opaque ruby-crimson colored, this emits intense aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, crushed roses and spice incense. The flavors are thick and generous, followed on the back by roasted berries  and nuts, mocha and creme de cassis, followed by a savory finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Wautoma Springs "Inky" Malbec, Wahluke Slope, Stone Tree Vineyard ($48) - This lives up to its name with an inky (squid) color and intense aromas of blackberries, blueberries, black currants, purple lilac, anise and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and mouth encompassing and the saturation continues on the back with macerated berries and roasted nuts, followed by a powerful velvety finish. 19+/20 points.

2019 Thurston Wolfe Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills, McKinley Springs Vineyard ($30) - This presents a semi-opaque color and an intense, smoky nose of blackberry, blueberry, rosebuds, lavender, sagebrush and incense. The flavors are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate and Horse Heaven wind-blown earth. The wine intensifies on the back with roasted nuts, creme de cassis and blueberry preserves. 18.5+/20 points.

Wade Wolfe's Thurston Wolfe Winery offers terrific value. Most of the wines are $20 or less and are real bargains. Noteworthy is the 2020 Lemberger Rosé which shows a copper-pink color and perfumed aromas of pink cherries, pomegranate, pink grapefruit and deftly extracted flavors. 18.5/20 points. A steal for $15. This and other Thurston Wolfe wines will be in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 

 

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Walla Walla Wine News

Recently, there have been a few noteworthy wine industry events in the Walla Walla Valley. Here's the rundown.

Casey McClellan Retires from Seven Hills - This week it was announced that Casey McClellan was officially retiring from the Seven Hills Winery which the and his wife Vicky founded in 1988. The Crimson Wine Group of California purchased the winery in 2016 with Casey McClellan agreeing to stay on as winemaker until 2021. The McClellan family retains ownership of the vineyards, first planted in the 1980's. Casey has had over 30 years experience grown grapes and making wines and has deep roots in Oregon agriculture as a fourth generation farmer. In retiring, he is leaving a great legacy.

Southwind Vineyard Purchased by Sagemoor

The Southwind Vineyard was planted by the Middleton Wine Group in 2007 for the Cadaretta Winery. Located in the South Walla Walla Valley on the high slope also occupied by Ferguson Vineyard and Doubleback. The vineyard is also noted for the "Glass House" situated at the top ridge of the vineyard. The Cadaretta winery closed in 2016 when Middleton's properties were sold to Vintage Wine Estates. The Southwind Vineyards continues to contract with wineries for the sale of grapes. The new owner of Southwind is Horizon Vineyards, a partnership of Sagemoor Vineyards and Resource Land Holdings. This purchase expands Sagemoor's holdings beyond the Sagemoor, Dionysus and Weinbau properties. 

Basel Cellars to become Yellowhawk Resort

A couple of days ago, Dan Theisen co-partner in the group that owns Basel Cellars on the Old Milton-Freewater Highway, announced that the property would be called Yellowhawk Resort, expanding the winery's hospitality operations for weddings and receptions, beginning in July. There also are plans for the winery to focus on producing sparkling wines under the direction of George-Anne Robertson, a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program. 

Value Pinot Noirs

Over the past few weeks, we have been exploring affordable Pinots Noirs that can be purchased for under $25 at supermarkets. Here's what we discovered. 

From Oregon, we found three Pinots that represent different approaches to producing entry level wines.

2019 Firesteed Pinot Noir, Oregon ($16) - Firesteed was founded in 1992 as a concept in affordable Pinot Noir by Howard Rossbach who used to sell wines to Esquin before then. The winery purchases wines from around Oregon and blends them in a facility in Mattawa, Washington. This vintage offers a medium brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds and a bit of sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet characterful, with supple red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola and earth, continuing on the back with pressed berries, roasted nuts and a soft, juicy finish. Purchased for $11.98 at Super 1. 17.5+/20 points.

2018 A to Z Pinot Noir, Oregon ($24) - A to Z contracts with growers all over Western Oregon for grapes and produces the wine at the Winery. Ruby colored, this wine possesses rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds, tobacco and light incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with notes of red licorice, cola, orange peel, tea and a bit of dusty earth. On the back, the wine turns slightly chewy textured with pressed fruits, toasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a nicely fruited soft tannin finish. Purchased for $19.98 at Super 1. 18/20 points.

2018 Ken Wright Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($25) - Ken Wright is known for its Estate Pinots from various vineyards. The entry level bottle is made from various lots and purchased wine. This shows a medium ruby-crimson color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, rosebuds, tobacco and incense. The flavors are direct and medium bodied yet substantial, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts mocha, framboise and creme de cassis, followed by a chewy moderate tannin and acid finish. Purchased for $16.99 at Safeway. 18+/20 points.

We also picked up a couple of California Pinot Noirs.

2018 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($32) - Medium brick red colored, this offers attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, red roses, mulberry, tobacco leaf and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with supple red fruits that are imbued with licorice, milk chocolate, pekoe tea and dusty earth. The soft textured back reveals gently pressed fruits, fraise and cassis liqueurs and No. 2 pencil lead, followed by a slightly grainy soft tannin finish. Purchased at Safeway for $21.99. 18/20 points.

2018 Meiomi Pinot Noir ($32) - This is composed of 60% Monterey, 27% Santa Barbara and 13% Sonoma counties. It shows a deep purplish color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, red roses, purple lilac and lightly spiced incense. The flavors are pleasingly supple, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola, black tea and coastal earth. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, creme de cassis and soft charcoal, followed by a juicy, chewy moderate tannin finish. Purchased for $22.99 at Safeway. 18/20 points.

 

 

 

 

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In reorganizing our wine collection, I found some 2019 and 2018 Rosé wines lying around. So I decided to open them up and see how they were doing. I am of the opinion that Rosé wines are not just for summer and do not have to be drunk by Labor Day. But that does not mean they they are as good a year or two later after release. My evaluations of the 2019's and 2018's bear this out. Here's my report.

One of the Rosés that held up the best was Ashley Trout's 2019 Brook & Bull. Composed of 47% Mourvèdre, 31% Cinsault and 22% Grenache, it still showed some good fruit and balance despite the low alcohol (11.1%). Two more were from Fiona Mak's SMAK Wines, The 2019 Pinot Gris Summer Rose was still fairly lively another summer later. I think that may because it came on like a copper-tinged white wine. The 2019 Fall/Winter Syrah Rosé had a somewhat subdued nose, but still holding up although it would have been better last winter. The 2019 Nefarious  Rosé from Lake Chelan was starting to dry up, but still drank well (70% Syrah, 30% Pinot Noir). 

We had three 2018 Rosés. The one from the Rioja district of Spain was drinkable but lacked freshness. A 2018 Tavel was beginning to dry up but the fruit was still holding on. Two years' aging is a stretch for most Rosés. One surprise was the 2018 L'Ecole No 41 Grenache Rosé from the Alder Ridge Vineyard on the Horse Heaven Hills. Still bright and nicely fruited (possibly helped by the Nomacorc synthetic closure). Whatever the winemaking formula was, it worked. 

In conclusion, Rosés can last a year or two, but are at their best when drunk young. There's nothing more pleasurable than opening up a bright, fresh Rosé wine in summer.

More 2020 Rosés Preview

Here are some more 2020's that will be reviewed in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line June 25).

2020 Hoquetus Cabernet Franc Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($26) - This is attractively styled, with wild strawberries, Rainier cherries, watermelon, tangerine, herbal tea and basalt and silt minerals and a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Grosgrain Vineyards "Blush" Rosé, Yakima Valley, Angolina Farm Vineyard ($20) - As the name suggests, this is light colored and light bodied, but well-delineated, with touches of nougat and cranberry skins. 18+/20 points.

2020 Grosgrain Vineyards "Pet-Nat" Lemberger, Red Mountain, Kiona Vineyard ($30) - This is a striking light copper-rose colored frothy bubbly, with fresh aromas and juicy flavors, enlivened by the CO2. 19/20 points.

2020 Alson Rosé, Columbia Gorge ($27) - This is a lovely Rosé, made from Pinot Noir. It has a perfumed aromas and fresh and sprightly flavors, accented by grape skins, orange peel and volcanic minerals. 19/20 points.

Others to be tasted over the next two weeks. 

  1. More Rosés and Other Wines
  2. More International Rosés
  3. Spring Release Weekend 2021 in Walla Walla
  4. More New French Wines