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Over the past couple of weeks, we have been drinking more Beaujolais. Why? Because the wines are very enjoyable and represent outstanding value.

The production of Beaujolais wines is located north of Lyon in the Saône River Valley in Southern Burgundy. The principal grape is Gamay, which was widely grown in Burgundy during the Middle Ages. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, issued an edict banning the cultivation of Gamay in the Côte d'Or which he believed to be inferior to Pinot Noir. This pushed the production of Gamay further south in the region now known as the Beaujolais.

Despite the Duke's opinions, Beaujolais remained popular. Much was shipped to England and Beaujolais became a staple beverage in Parisian bistros. The wines are typically generous and finely fruited, yet elegant. The best wines come from the "Crus."named after the villages where they are produced:

Fullest-Bodied - Chénas, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent

Medium Bodied - Fleurie, Côte de Brouilly, Saint-Amour

Lightest-Bodied - Regnié, Brouilly, Chiroubles

The soils of the Crus, are typically granitic, which contributes to the intensity of the wines, with interspersed clay and gravel. For more, see the Beaujolais AOC article in Wikipedia.

Recent Vintages

2018 - An excellent vintage, a bit lighter than 2017, but with considerable depth and fruit.

2017 - An exceptional year. Ideal harvesting conditions, resulted in wines of much depth and strength.

2016 - A less than stellar year. The wines are pleasant but without the depth and complexity of the 2017s and 2015s.

2015 - The vignerons in Beaujolais claim this is their greatest vintage since 1945. The best wines have much power and complexity. 

Here are my notes on Crus Beaujolais we have tasted recently.

2018 Jean-Marc Bourgaud Morgon, Côte du Py ($27.99 - wine.com) - This wine possesses a deep ruby-crimson color and an intense, perfumed nose of wild raspberries, black cherries, black currants, crushed rose petals, sweet tobacco, lilac and wood smoke. The flavors are vigorous and mouth-filling, with notes of licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals macerated berries, roasted nuts, and framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a ripe tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+20 points. 

2018 Domaine Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly, Vieilles Vignes ($28.99 - wine.com) - Purple-crimson colored, this wine emits ripe aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, bayberry, lilac, anise and incense. The flavors are deliciously juicy yet well defined, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and pink granite. The back picks up kirsch and cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and pencil shavings, followed by a pleasing finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly ($29.99 - wine.com) - From a higher elevation site above Brouilly, this shows a ruby-crimson color and a seductive nose of fraises de bois, raspberries, currants, rose petals, sweet tobacco, lilac, anise and white incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with medium bodied but vigorous red fruits that are imbued with licorice, Swiss chocolate, chamomile tea and schist minerals. On the back, the wine turns elegant with sensations of framboise, fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and pencil lead, followed by a satiny tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Domaine de Marrans Morgon "Corcelette" ($23.99 - wine.com) - Deep purplish colored, this possesses lovely aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, bayberry, violets and incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with vivid red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs and a bit of spritz (from carbonic maceration) followed by a pleasingly juicy finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.

Below are some recommended Crus Beaujolais that have been previously reviewed and which are still available.

2017 Yohan Lardy Fleurie, "Le Vivier" ($24 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This lovely wine possesses lovely, perfumed aromas of strawberries and currants, with alluring supple red fruits and hillside minerals. The finish is long and velvety. Reviewed 7 January. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Yohan Lardy Chénas, "Les Deschamps" ($25 - The Thief) - This one offers enticing aromas of wild fruits, lilac and white incense. The flavors are pure Gamay, with notes of licorice, cocoa and pink granite.], followed by a pleasingly juicy creme de cassis infused finish. Reviewed 7 January. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas, "Tradition" ($21.99 - wine.com) - This is medium-bodied but substantial and focused, with wild fruit aromas and generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and high elevation minerals. The back picks up toasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a satisfying finish. Reviewed 2 December. 18.5/20 points. 

2017 Daniel Boiuland Chiroubles "Chatnay" ($37 - The Thief) - This is relatively pricey for a Cru Beaujolais (most are under $30) but is worth it. It features a purplish color and lovely aromas of wild fruits, crushed roses, violets and incense. The flavors are velvety and generous yet well structured, with notes of licorice, cocoa and minerals, followed by a lingering a creme de cassis and toast finish. Reviewed 24 October. 19/20 points.

While on the subject of Beaujolais, we should take note of the passing of the French wine shipper Georges Duboeuf a few weeks ago. He was largely responsible for the increased popularity of Beaujolais in the 1980's with his flower label wines. He also pioneered the export of estate grown Cru Beaujolais. I met him once in Seattle at a promotional tasting of his wines. He was quite personable. As a tribute, we recently had the following wine, one of the Domaine wines.

2015 Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-à-Vent - This vintage is sold out (the 2017 is the current vintage at wine.com). The 2015 shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberries, currants, plums and a hint of fig, with scents of semi dried roses, mulberry, tobacco,  sandalwood and whiffs of spiced incense. The flavors are simultaneously velvety and muscular, marked by licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine is rounding out beautifully with notes of roasted berries and nuts, mocha, toffee, coffee grounds and graphite, followed by a lingering smooth tannin finish. 19/20 points.

 

 

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Not Just for Summer

Conventional wisdom has it that Rosé wines are for summer and that the current vintage should be drunk up by Labor Day. Quite to the contrary, Rosés can be drunk the year around. The French do that and at home, we do, too. Here are some that we have had recently that are still available. 

2018 Isabelle Garrault Sancerre Rosé, "Les Grands Monts" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Sancerre Rosé is made from Pinot Noir (unlike Sancerre Blanc which is Sauvignon Blanc). This one sports a bright pink-ruby color and lovely aromas of strawberry, raspberry and currant, with lively, nicely extracted flavors. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé, Pfalz ($13.99 - wine.com) - This German Rosé's a crowd pleaser (we had it at a luncheon with smoked ham). Light pink colored, it has attractive aromas of strawberries, cherries and currants with juicy, lightly extracted red fruit flavors that are accented by a distinct Pfalz minerality. A bargain at 13.99. 18+/20 points.

2018 Domaine de la Modorée Tavel Rosé ($31.99 - wine.com) - Tavel is situated near Avignon and the Rosés are predominately Grenache. We had this at our luncheon and everyone loved it. Copper-pink colored, it has enticing aromas of raspberry, currant and orange peel with beautifully balanced and extracted flavors. A great all-around Rosé. I ordered three more bottles. 19/20 points. Lynn - three stars, highest rating. 

2018 Maison L'Envoyé Beaujolais Rosé, "Le Saint Pâle" ($17.99 - wine.com) - Made from the Gamay Noir grape, this presents a light brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberries, red currants, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are moderately extracted and nicely juiced on the dry finish. 18.5/20 points. Lynn, 2 stars.

2018 La Fleur de Mer Côtes de Provence Rosé ($16.99 - Safeway) - Predominately Grenache, this a charmer. Light copper colored, it shows expressive aromas of wild strawberries, orange peel, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with dustings of herbs and spices on the dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 AIX Côteaux d'Aix en Provence Rosé ($18.99 - Safeway) - This, too. is an attractive Rosé. Light copper-pink colored, it shows floral aromas of raspberry, currant, orange peel, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lively and mouth-filling, with vivid red fruits and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the lightly spiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Conde Valdemar Rioja Rosé ($20 - Valdemar Estates) - We had this recently at Valdemar Estates in Walla Walla with tapas. Light copper colored, it possesses rich aromas of raspberry, orange peel and wildflowers. The flavors are deft and nicely crafted. Produced from Garnacha (70%) and Viura (30%). 18.5/20 points. 

2018 Lagana Cellars Pinot Noir Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Breezy Slope Vineyard ($20 - winery) - Light copper colored, this offers enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, red roses and whiffs of pink incense. The moderately extracted flavor are bright and juicy, finishing crisp and dry. 18+/20 points. 

2018 Seven Hills Dry Rosé, Columbia Valley ($18 - winery) - Predominately Cabernet Franc, this presents a light copper color and attractive aromas of raspberry, cherry, cranberry and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are light and deft, with nice fruits and a pleasing dry finish. 18+/20 points.

2018 Julia's Dazzle Rosé, Columbia Valley ($17.99 - Safeway) - From Pinot Gris grapes given extra hang time to produce a copper-tinged Rosé, this possesses enticing aromas of raspberry, melon and orange peel, with vibrant fruit flavors, marked by bright acidity and a brisk, dry finish. 18.5/20 points. Lynn 3 stars. 

2018 College Cellars Rosé of Grenache, Columbia Valley ($18 - winery) - This is a delightful slightly sparking Rosé. It shows frothy bubbles, and a pink color and rose and lavender scents, along with lively red fruit flavors (strawberry, raspberry, currant) and touches of spice and minerals that finish nice and juicy. 18.5/20 points. Lynn 3 stars.

2018 Stoller Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley ($19.99 - Safeway) - This Oregon Rosé offers a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, cranberry, currant and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, nicely extracted, especially on the crisp finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Rosé, Russian River Valley, Sonoma ($16.99 - Safeway) - We tried this California Rosé and liked it. It displays a brilliant copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, red currant, red roses and pink incense. The flavors are lively and nicely extracted, with a hint of spritz and sweet fruit on the finish. 18.5/20 points. Lynn 2 stars.

 

 

 

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Here are a few recent news items about goings on in the Walla Walla Valley.

Barrel Full of Money Raises $55,000 for the Food Bank

On December 12th, Barrel Full of Money held its annual reception and auction to benefit the Blue Mountain Action Council which operates a Food Bank and provides other services for the needy in the Walla Walla Valley Community. Over 55 thousand dollars was raised, which will buy a lot of meals for those who need them. Many wineries participated by donating wines, mostly magnums, for the silent auction. And other businesses donated travel and other packages for the live auction. Thanks to all who helped this event, the most successful one yet.

Marcus Rafanelli Named L'Ecole No. 41 Winemaker

In December, it was announced that Marcus Rafanelli, a lead instructor at the Walla Walla Community College Institute for Enology and Viticulture would become L'Ecole No. 41's winemaker. Marcus is a 2006 graduate of Boise State College with a degree in biology. He enrolled in the Walla Walla Community College Institute for Enology and Viticulture and worked the 2007 crush at L'Ecole. Then five years at the William Church winery in Woodinville where I first met Marcus. After a year in Australia, he returned to Walla Walla as an instructor at Community College. The faculty is happy to see him move on to L'Ecole. 

Rockgarden Vineyard Acquired by Force Majeure

It was announced this week that Rockgarden Vineyard in the Rocks of Milton-Freewater was purchased from the Buty Winery. This increases the presence of Force Majeure, which previously sourced most of its wines from Red Mountain, in the Walla Walla Valley, in addition to the newly constructed winery in The Rocks and the Stellar Vineyard.

Todd Alexander Now Winemaker at The Walls

Another development related to Force Majeure is Todd Alexander's taking over the winemaking at The Walls Winery. He is also winemaker at Force Majeure and his wife, Carrie is now marketing director for both wineries. Former Walls winemaker, Ali Mayfield has departed to start her own winery. 

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Over the past few weeks, we've been sampling some wines from France and Spain. They were acquired from a variety of sources to expand our exploration of European wines. Here are our notes and scores.

French Wines

2017 William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons ($59.99 - Esquin) - We had this with Shigoku oysters on my birthday. It showed a brilliant gold color and floral aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, apple blossoms and lemon verbena. The flavors were crisp and saline, with a distinct flintiness that made the wine a great accompaniment to the small oysters. 19/20 points.

2017 William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru, Les Preuses ($109.99 - Esquin) - This was a fabulous accompaniment to the oysters. It had the high tones of high elevation Chablis, along with a laser-like intensity and notes of oyster shell and saline minerals. The racy yet rich finish kept on coming. 19.5/20 points.

2016 Domaine Poisot Pernand-Vergelesses, Premier Cru, En Caradeux ($59.99 - Esquin) - The En Caradeux Vineyard is across the road from the Grand Cru Corton and this is a beautiful Burgundy. It exhibits a brilliant brick red color and lovely aromas of fraises de bois, raspberries, wild currants, wild roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of exotic incense. The flavors are deliciously velvety, yet forceful, with layers of red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea, forest carpet and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine intensifies, with sensations of pressed fruits, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a lingering, suave, again velvety finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Frédéric Berne Beaujolais-Latigné, "Granit Rose" ($15 - Last Bottle) - Last Bottle is an on line retailer specializing on end of lot deals. This shows a deep purplish color and enticing aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, crushed roses, mulberry and white incense. The flavors show Gamay varietal purity, with notes of licorice, cocoa, tea and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and kirsch liqueurs on a pleasingly juicy finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Yohan Lardy Cru Fleurie, "Le Vivier" ($24 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This Cru Beaujolais shows a brick red color and lovely aromas of strawberries, wild currants, cranberries, crushed red roses, sweet pea flowers and pink incense. The flavors are alluring, with supple red fruits that are endowed with licorice, cocoa and hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by bright fruit acids on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Yohan Lardy Cru Chénas, "Les Deschamps" ($25 - The Thief) - From a vineyard planted in 1940, this displays a purplish crimson color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, currants, red roses, lilac and whiffs of white smoke. The flavors are generous yet focused, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa black tea and minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis, followed by a pleasing juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Sergurier Chateauneuf du Pape, "Tradition" ($26 - Last Bottle) - Although the 2017 vintage in CdP is less spectacular than 2016 or 2015, this is a super buy. Mostly Grenache, it offers a ruby color and attractive aromas of raspberries, blueberries, red currants, red roses, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are appealing, with generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola and mas minerals. The back picks up cassis and framboise liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf du Pape, "Vieilles Vignes" ($35 - Last Bottle) - Deep brick red colored, this possesses sultry aromas of raspberries, strawberries, black currants, crushed roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco, lavender, fines herbs and spiced incense. The flavors are massive, yet mouth caressing, with loads of black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice root, cocoa, black tea and mas minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nut and a touch of caramel, followed by a long, ripe spicy finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Laurent Combier Crozes-Hermitage ($29 - The Thief) - This 100% Syrah displays a deep purplish ruby color and a rich, spicy nose of blackberry, black cherry, black currant, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are bold and direct, true to variety, with up front fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and stony minerals. The vigor continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, creme decassi and charcoal, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Château d'Arsac, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois ($25 - Last Bottle) - Composed of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, this Bordeaux offers a semi opaque ruby color and rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, black roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, cedar and wood smoke. The flavors, as well, are attention getting, with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts and toffee, followed by a dryish yet ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Spanish Wines

Lately, we have been trying some wines from the Rioja district of northwest Spain. Made from the Tempranillo grape, sometimes with a bit of Graciano, Mazuelo or Garnacha, they range from the modern to the traditional style. 

2016 Cune Rioja, Crianza ($12.98 - Super 1) - This entry level Rioja offers a ruby-garnet color and a nose of raspberries, cherries, currants, semi dried roses, tobacco and wood smoke. The flavors are medium bodied, yet well delineated, with notes of licorice, chicory coffee and earth. The back picks up roasted berries and nut, tart cherries and mocha, followed by a soft dryish tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2015 Marqués de Murrietta Rioja Reserva, "Finca Ygay" ($25.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 80% Tempranillo, 12% Graciano, 6% Mazuela and 2% Garnacha, this steers a mid course between the modern and traditional styles. It shows a ruby-garnet color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, cherries, plums, crushed roses, tobacco, cedar and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with ample yet focused semi-dried fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up roasted berries and almonds and touches of almonds and American oak, followed by a ripe moderate sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva ($27.99 - wine.com) - Bodegas Muga produces wines in a modern yet traditional style. Deep ruby colored, this emits rich, smoky aromas of blackberries, black cherries, black currants, mulberry, maduro wrapper and incense. The flavors are full and bold, with notes of black licorice, cocoa, chicory coffee and alluvial minerals. The vigor continues on the back with sensations of macerated berries, tart cherries and roasted almonds, followed by a sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. 

2010 La Rioja Alta "Vina Ardanza" Rioja Reserva, Selection Especial ($32.99 - wine.com) - Rioja Reservas can age well and this is a fine example. Composed of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha, this shows a ruby-garnet color and rich aromas of semi dried fruits - raspberries, cherries, currants, and a hint of fig - with scents of dried roses, tobacco, orange peel, sandalwood and wood smoke. The flavors have smoothed out with barrel aging along with notes of licorice root, chicory coffee and dusty earth. The textured  back reveals sensations of roasted berries and nuts, cherry liqueur and recurring orange peel, followed by a lingering dryish finish whose tannins are beginning to resolve. 19/20 points.

The following wines were tasted at Valdemar Estates winery in Walla Walla which features the Estate's Rioja wines as well as those of the winery.

2016 Conde Valdemar Rioja Crianza ($22) - Composed of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Mazuelo and aged 16 months in American oak, this offers a ruby color and an aromatic nose of raspberry, cherry, currant, black roses, mulberry, vanillin and wood smoke. The flavors are generous yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa. chicory coffee and earth. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted coconut, tart cherries and burnt toast, followed by a ripe dryish moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2012 Conde Valdemar Rioja Reserva ($30) - This is 85% Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 5% Garnacha, aged 26 months in American and French oak. It shows a semi-opaque ruby color and intoxicating aromas of dark fruits - cherries, plums, black currants - with scents of black roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood, a hint of basaltic, and spiced incense. The flavors are bold and direct, yet complex, with notes of licorice, coffee beans and dusty earth. The intensity continues on the back with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, toasty oak and graphite, followed by a deep sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points. 

2010 Conde Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva ($50) - Composed of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Matura from old vines in Rioja Alavesa and aged 32 months in 75% French and 25% American oak, this exhibits a semi opaque ruby-garnet color and rich, sultry aromas of black cherries, plums, black currants, tobacco, vanillin, cedar and spiced incense. The flavors are full and mouth encompassing, with notes of black licorice, dark cocoa, dark roast coffee and black earth. The penetration continues on the back with roasted fruits, grilled almonds, mocha, ground charcoal and toasty oak, followed by a long, full yet elegant sweet-dry tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

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As 2019 comes to a close, here's what's coming up in the wine world and in the Review of Washington Wines in 2020.

 

More Wineries and Vineyards 

In 2019, the number of registered wineries in Washington State passed the 1000 mark. The number may well surpass 1200 next year. More vineyard acreage will be planted. Thomas- Hennick-King, Director of Enology and Viticulture at Washington State University has stated that there is plenty of available land suitable for planting wine grape vines in the state. Also look to more in state and out of state investment in land and wineries. Some of these transactions will be facilitated by investment counselors such as METIS of Portland and Walla Walla. There will be major players in these developments.

More New American Viticultural Areas

The last two AVAs in Washington State and contiguous states were approved in 2015 - The Lewis-Clark Valley (Idaho-Washington) and The Rocks of Milton-Freewater (a sub-AVA of the Walla Walla Valley). It is high time new sub AVAs of the Columbia Valley were approved. There are proposed AVAs that meet the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms requirements for these areas, including the Royal Slope and the Burn of the Columbia River. 

Coming Up in Future Review of Washington Wines Issues

We are in the process of evaluating wines for upcoming issues of the Review of Washington. In the February issue, on line January 24, there will be more Winter releases from the Walla Walla Valley, and other wines from around the state, plus an expanded Best Buys section, including Oregon wines. March will have wines from around the state and in April there will be a report on Woodinville wineries. In the Spring, we will make a loop through Spokane, Coeur d'Alene, the Lewis-Clark Valley and Boise. Upcoming Review Blogs will include tastings of French, Italian and Spanish wines and wine industry news.

Happy New Year!

  1. Best Buys of 2019
  2. Top Wines of 2019
  3. Holiday Barrel Weekend 2019 in Walla Walla
  4. More New Wines Recently Tasted