More French Wines: Rosé and Red
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Over the past couple of weeks, we have been trying some new French wines, red and rosé. Most are from Provence and Southwest France. Here are my notes and scores.
2019 Château Thivin Beaujolais-Villages Rosé ($21 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This presents a brilliant peach-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, red currant, orange, pink peach, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, wit6h pink fruits dancing on the palate, intermixed with stony minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Rose, "Gris de Gris" ($19 - The Thief) - Light copper-grey colored, this possesses an intriguing nose of wild strawberries, pink cherries, currants, tangerine, orange blossoms, pink roses and orange incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skins, orange peel and Languedoc-Roussillon minerals. The back picks up touches of kirsch and cerise liqueurs on the way ro a nicely juiced dry finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points. See below for the 2018 Corbières Rouge.
2019 Château Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - This displays a brilliant copper color and intriguing aromas of fraise de bois, pomegranate, red currants, blood orange, crushed roses, orange blossoms, lavender and orange incense. The flavors are more extracted than usual for a rosé, yet stay restrained, with notes of grape skins and stony minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis, pomegranate seeds and orange peel, followed by a generous, pleasing finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine de la Blaque Pierrevert Alpes de Haute Provence Rosé ($20 - The Thief) - Produced from Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault and Vermentino grapes grown in the hills above Provence, this shows a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, peach, tangerine, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, deftly extracted, with notes of peach stone and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and kirsch liqueurs and tangerine peel, followed by a refreshing finish. A real "gem." Lynn: 3 stars (highest rating). 18.5+/20 points.
2019 Fleurs de Prairie Côtes de Provence Rosé ($19.99 - Safeway) - Brilliant pink-peach colored, this possesses intriguing aromas of strawberry, currant, orange peel, lavender and Provençal herbs. The flavors are softly extracted yet well delineated, with red and orange fruits that are accented by Mistral-blown earth and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, orange peel and a bit of spritz, followed by a pleasing, juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Fleur de Mer Côtes de Provence Rosé ($18.99 - Safeway) - From near St. Tropez, this Rosé presents a brilliant copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, watermelon, tangerine, pink roses, lavender, Provencçal herbs and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with bright pink fruits that ate accented by grape skins and Côte d'Azur minerals. The vivacity continues on the back with fraise liqueur, tangerine peel and pomegranate seeds, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Cuvée d'Esclans" ($24.99 - Safeway) - This version shows a light pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, currant, tangerine, pink flowers, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are light and fresh, yet deftly extracted, with notes of pink fruits and stony minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs and tangerine peel, followed by a finely fruited finish. Comes on as being in the lighter but elegant style. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Peyrasol Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Cuvée de la Coimmanderie" ($29 - The Thief) - Composed of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, this offers a brilliant, light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberries, red currants, tangerine, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are beautifully fresh and well delineated, with notes of grape skins and hillside minerals. The allure continues on the back with sensations of fraise and cassis liqueurs, tangerine peel and a bit of spritz, followed by a lightly spiced finish. 18.5+/20 points.
N.V. Je T'aime Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé ($20 - The Thief) - This is a delightful methode traditionelle sparkling wine from Southwest France. It displays a brilliant light copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and lovely aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, orange, pink roses, lavender and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are fresh, enlivened by the CO2, and accented by grape skins and Limoux minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and orange peel on the way to a crisp true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny ($30 - The Thief) - Deep ruby colored, this Cabernet Franc emits smoky aromas of black cherries, black currants, black plums, black roses, tobacco, a hint of mint and whiffs of incense. The flavors are bold and forward, with dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, cocoa, French roast, and Saumur alluvial minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated berries, kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a rich, chewy finish. Packs a lot of flavor for the price. 18.5+/20 points.
2018 Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Rouge ($14.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 10% Syrah, this shows a ruby-crimson color and rich aromas of raspberry, black currant, plum, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender and incense. The flavors are generous and full, yet focused, with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and Languedoc-Roussillon earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and graphite, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2018 Maxime Magnon Corbières "La Démarrute" ($39 - The Thief) - This is an upscale Corbières, produced from 50% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah from 50-60 year-old vines. It features a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberries, black currants, plums, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, with loads of up front fleshy, yet substantial red and black fruits that are infused with licorice, black tea and schist and limestone minerals. The back picks up macerated fruits, smoked meats and creme de cassis, followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Château Oilleux-Romanis Corbières, "Le Petit Fanet d'Hippolyte" ($20.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this wine emits intense aromas of blackberry, black currant, black plum, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with supple yet thick and focused dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, black tea and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a spiced sweet-dry moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2016 Château Peyros Madiran ($15.99 - wine.com) - Madiran is an appellation situated in Southwest France. This version is composed of 60% Tannat (an indigenous grape) and 40% Cabernet Franc. It shows a deep ruby color and an engaging nose of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco and stick incense. The flavors are direct and muscular, yet accessible, with up front dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, dark chocolate, roasted coffee bans and earth. The penetration continues on the back with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, toffee and charcoal, followed by a tannic (tannin) yet smoothed out by lanolin, ripe finish. 18+/20 points.
The Life Celebration of Doug Roskelley
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- Written by Rand Sealey
On Thursday, August 13, a Celebration of Doug Roskelley, co-owner and winemaker of Tero Estates, was held via Zoom. The event was organized by Jodi Rozonowski, general manager of TR Wines. At 3:00 p.m., the virtual event went live on the internet. Lynn and I saw 5 frames off 25 participants on our computer screen. Jodi started off the celebration with Jan Roskelley, Doug's wife. Tributes were made, including Barb Nordin, neighbor of the Roskelley's in Woodinville 30 years ago.
In recognition of Doug's love for chamber music, especially that of the Walla Walla Chamber Music Festival, a Mahler composition was played by 18 musicians. Then more tributes were made, including that of Mike Tembruell, partner in Tero Estates who described Doug as a visionary of many talents, as a builder, architect, winemaker and more. Then there was a slide show of many pictures of Doug - in the winery and vineyard, at Chamber Music events, with Jan and with their son, Kyle, and more, including one of Doug holding our Bengal cat, Harlow, and one of Doug and me with cigars. Doug was so beloved by so many friends.
Another chamber music composition, by Tchaikovsky, was played and then the Walla Walla Chamber Festival director, Timothy Christie praised Doug for his and Jan's support since the founding in 2007, including hosting recitals at Tero Estates, dinners and more. More tributes followed, and then Jan and Jodi wrapped up the celebration with a heartfelt thanks to all.
Lynn sent the following email to Jodi, Jan and Tim:
"Dear Jodi,
What a perfectly orchestrated virtual Celebration of Life it was for Doug. The program was perfect and those who spoke including you and Jan provided insights into Doug's remarkable personality. He, as many voiced, was a bigger-than-life individual - brilliant, highly capable in so many endeavors through his life, and beloved by anyone who ever met him.
Tim: You and your musicians were astounding. How you brought 16-18 for your finest playing together in sync from their living rooms was quite miraculous. The selections were lovely.
We will never forget the many wonderful TERO Estates gatherings over the past 12 years."
For more about Doug, see the blog posting of 25 July, 2020 below.
Wine Tasting During Phase 1.5
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- Written by Rand Sealey
The COVID-19 Pandemic has certainly changed the way things are being done, especially in wine tasting rooms. The days of Spring and Fall Release Weekends with packed tasting rooms are gone. With the restrictions of what is being called Phase 1.5, here's what we've been encountering.
On July 22 and 23, we visited several wineries in Woodinville. We had appointments lined up beforehand. Our first visit was at Brian Carter Cellars. We tasted out on the patio. At Avennia, we were the only visitors, so Andrew Bradshaw took us through the lineup inside the spacious tasting room.
The next day, we tasted at Efeste with Principal Winemaker Mark Fioré, then Guardian Cellars. In the afternoon, we joined Noah Fox Reed for a tasting of the lineup of the Tinte Cellars, William Church and Cuillin Hills collective. After Tinte, we made a quick stop at WIT to try the new Sparkling Rosé.
On Friday, July 24, on our way back to Walla Walla, we stopped in Prosser to visit the new Wautoma Springs Winery at the end of Port Avenue in the Winemakers Village. We sat out on the patio under an umbrella, and owner-winemaker Jessica Munnell poured us their current releases.
After we returned to Walla Walla, I set up appointments at local wineries, including some new ones: Kinhaven on Merlot Drive, off Braden Road in the Southside; Alton on Peppers Bridge Road, across from Amavi; and Hoquetus, north of Highway 12. Other wineries visited were Seven Hills, Grosgrain, Va Piano, Forgeron and others.
Watch for the September issue, on line, August 25 for reviews of the wines from the above wineries.
In Downtown Walla Walla, there have been major changes. For a couple of weeks Main Street was blocked off to enable restaurants and tasting rooms open up out to the street. But the lack of street parking was hurting other businesses, so Main Street was reopened to traffic and "parakeets" constructed out from the curbs to create more outdoor restaurant and wine tasting space. I drove down Main Street yesterday and saw pavers being put down. It's all looking good.
New Washington Rosés and New Wineries
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- Written by Rand Sealey
On Wednesday, July 22 and Thursday, the 23rd, we visited some wineries in Woodinville. There, we ran across a couple of impressive Rosés. Here are brief notes (full reviews to be in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines).
2019 Avennia "L'Egerie" Rosé Wine, Columbia Valley ($25) - This 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre shows a brilliant pink-copper color and lovely aromas of strawberries, orange, watermelon, red currant, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are appealing, accented by grape skins, melon rind and stony minerals and finishes nicely juiced. 18.5+/20 points.
2019 WIT Cellars "Unleashed" Rosé Sparkling Wine, Columbia Valley ($28) - Produced from 100% Syrah, this displays a brilliant pink-rose color, frothy rim and scents of strawberry, rhubarb, watermelon and citrus. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, enlivened by the CO2. The back picks up fraise liqueur, melon rind and orange peel, followed by a zingy, dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.
New Wineries, New Rosés
On the way back from Woodinville, we stopped at Wautoma Springs new winery at the end of Port Avenue in Prosser.
2019 Wautoma Springs Rosé, Columbia Valley ($17) - Produced from 100% Syrah, this shows a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberries, cranberries, currants, orange peel and pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and bright with a round mouth feel and a spiced dusted dry finish. (Full review to be in the September issue). 18.5/20 points.
In the Walla Walla Valley, more new wineries have opened up recently. Here are their new Rosés. Reports on these wineries and their other wines will be in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
2019 Kinhaven Estate Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($28) - Produced from estate grown Merlot, this is a striking Rosé. Deep copper colored, it possesses aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, Rainier cherry, watermelon, orange blossoms and orange incense. The flavors are bold but not overbearing, with grape skins, melon rind and silty minerals and a lingering finish lifted by bright fruit acids. 19/20 points.
2019 Alton Rosé, Columbia Gorge ($25) - Produced from Pinot Noir, this shows a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, red currants, tangerine, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are deftly extracted with lovely pink fruits that are accented by volcanic minerals, followed by fraise and kirsch liqueurs and a twist of tangerine peel ob the nicely fruited finish. 19/20 points.
2019 Hoquetus Cabernet Franc Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Blue Mountain Vineyard ($25) - Light pink-peach colored, this possesses attractive aromas of wild strawberries, Rainier cherries, watermelon, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are light, fresh and deftly extracted and the back picks up fraise and kirsch liqueurs, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.
From another new winery, see the 2019 Itä Primitivo Rosé in the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
And here are a couple more new Washington Rosés that will be in the September Review of Washington Wines.
2019 Va Piano Cabernet Franc Rosé, Yakima Valley, Chelle den Millie Vineyard ($22) - Brilliant copper-pink colored, this possesses intriguing aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, watermelon, pink grapefruit, pink roses, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors are deftly extracted, enlivened by framboise and kirsch liqueurs, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Browne Family Vineyards Grenache Rosé, Columbia Valley ($24) - This shows a light pink color and attractive aromas of strawberries, red currants, watermelon. lavender, orange peel and white incense. The fresh young red fruits are accented by fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel on the lightly spiced finish. A light, but refreshing Rosé. 18.5/20 points.
More Best Buys from Esquin
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Two weeks ago, I listed some wines from Esquin Wines & Spirits that were great buys. Last week, we stopped by Esquin on Fourth Avenue South in Seattle and picked up some more value wines, including some tasty Rosés.
2019 La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova, Toscana ($15.99) - This 50% Sangiovese, 50% Prugnolo Gentile combination shows a brilliant copper color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink peach , orange, cantaloupe, orange blossoms, summer flowers and orange incense. The flavors are deliciously crisp and lively, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and Tuscan hillside minerals. The back picks up strawberry liqueur and orange peel, followed by a brightly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Calvachina Bardolino Chiaretto ($17.99) - Bardolino is the town and Chiaretto is the Veronese name for Rosé. This versions shows a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, tangerine, pink roses, orange blossoms, summer flowers and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Lake Garda minerals. The back picks up raspberry and currant liqueurs and tangerine peel on the was to a crisp dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Fabre en Provence Côtes de Provence Rosé ($13.99) - Brilliant copper pink colored, this Rosé possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, red currant, tangerine peel, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with notes of grape skins, tangerine peel and Côte d'Azur minerals. On the back, the wine is enlivened by fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel on the nicely juiced finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Les Hauts du Vallon Bandol Rosé ($23.99) - Composed of 52% Mourvèdre, 22% Grenache and 26% Cinsault, this exhibits a brilliant light copper-pink color and perfumed aromas of strawberries, red currants, orange, pomegranate, orange blossoms, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are striking as well, with red fruits that are imbued with grape skins, pomegranate seeds and argil-calcareous minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel on the way to a beautifully extracted and vivid finish. The best Bandol for the price we've run across so far. 19/20 points.
2019 Domaine Collotte Marsannay Rosé ($20.99) - Marsannay is situated at the north end of Burgundy's Côte d'Or and is made from Pinot Noir. This version shows a brilliant copper-pink color and seductive aromas of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate red roses, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with bright red fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2019 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rosé, "Terre de Maimbray" ($27.99) - Sancerre Rosé is produced from Pinot Noir. This one shows a brilliant copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currants, cherry blossoms, orange peel and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with deftly extracted pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and calcareous minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a lingering, balanced finely fruited dry finish. 19/20 points.
2018 San Felice Chianti Classico ($14.99) - Composed of 80% Sangiovese and 10% each of Colorino and Pugntello, this is a serviceable Chianti. It shows a medium ruby color and aromas of cherry, red currant, plum, mulberry and stick incense. The medium bodied flavors are engaging, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, black tea and hillside earth. The back picks up squeezed currants and tart cherries, followed by a sweet-dry moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna ($16.99) - Cannonau is the Sardinian name for Grenache. This version shows a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and currant with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, orange peel, and spiced incense. The flavors are supple yet firm, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and volcanic minerals. The chewy textured back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a spice and pepper dusted moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2017 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhone, "Les Abeilles" ($13.99) - Les Abeilles ("The Bees") is composed of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It displays a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are supple, yet vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and stony earth. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts and charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Domaine Nôtre Dame des Pallières Gigondas, "Mourres" ($24.99) - Most Gigondas costs upwards of $30, so this is a great buy. Composed of 80% Grenache with 10% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah, it shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, black currant and orange peel, with scents of crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and incense. The flavors are supple yet substantial, with notes of licorice cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The back picks up framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a ripe chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
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