An Oyster and Chablis Tasting Plus More Burgundies

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 08 December 2021

An Oyster and Chablis Tasting

On Friday, December 3, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of oysters and Chablis. Six wines were served: one Chablis, three Premier Crus and two Grand Crus. The wines were accompanied by Kumamoto and Kushi oysters from Foodscape and jambon persillé (a parsley aspic which, according to my research, makes an excellent accompaniment to Chablis besides oysters). Here are my notes.

2019 Lamblin & Fils Chablis ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This communal appellation wine shows a light gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, melon, pear blossoms and hillside wildflowers and a hint of wintergreen. The flavors are delicate, yet well delineated, with notes of grape and pear skins and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Sylvain Chablis Premier Cru, Forêts ($39.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This is the first Premier Cru Chablis for under $40 I've seen in a long time (most are $50). It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, orange peel, apple blossoms, hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors are crisp and resonant, yet accessible, with notes of grape and pear skins and hillside minerals. The back picks up apple and peach liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Louis Moreau Chablis Premier Cru, Vau Ligneau ($45.90 - Foodscape) - This shows a brilliant gold color and aromas of green apple, Crenshaw melon, grapefruit, apple blossoms,  hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors combine green and yellow fruits with oyster shell stones and and melon rind. The back reveals Calvados liqueur and grapefruit peel on the way to a bracing, steely finish. Goes great with Kumamotos. 19/20 points.

2019 Fevre-Fevre Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume ($48.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses a steely, floral nose of pear, peach, lime, pear blossoms, wildflowers, and wet stone. On the palate, the wine is dynamically styled, with ripe fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and Kimmeridgian calcareous minerals. The finish is especially exquisite for a Premier Cru, with a long, balanced finish. Judged the best 1er Cru by most tasters. 19+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($99.99 - wine.com) - This is a great step above Premier Cru. It displays an iridescent gold color and rich, floral aromas of old tree pears, peach, melon, lime, apple blossoms, wildflowers and gunflint. The flavors are steely, pure high elevation Chardonnay, marked by grape and apple skins and oyster shell minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, followed by a persistently minerally finish. 19.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($109.99 - wine.com) - This is made in an elegant, crisp negociant style. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it presents floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, wildflowers and wet stone. The flavors are a bit less focused than the Louis Michel Le Clos, with charming white and green fruits that are accented by grape skins and calcareous minerals. The wine finishes crisp and minerally. 19+/20 points. 

Other New Burgundies

2020 Roux Pere & Fils Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse ($18.99 - wine.com) - This offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are fresh and bright, showing considerable Chardonnay purity, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. Fine value. 18+/20 points.

2019 Laurent Perrachon & Fils Saint-Amour "La Gagière" ($19.99 - wine.com) - This is a lovely Cru Beaujolais. It displays a brilliant ruby color and perfumed aromas of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate, red roses, sweet pea flowers and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are charming, with red fruits that are imbued by red licorice, chocolate, black tea and granitic minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a pleasingly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent ($24.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a brick red color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, brambly currants, black roses, tobacco, bayberry and stick incense. The flavors are thick and vigorous, with generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine enriches further with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a warm (14% alcohol) chewy ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

The following three wines come from a Domaine in Morey-St. Denis, that of Frederic and Michel Magnien, that has extensive holdings in the Côte de Nuits. The wines are aged in amphorae, which make them quite distinctive.

2019 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir ($28.99 - wine.com) - From vineyards outside of the Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis and Vosne-Romanee, this shows a brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, blood orange, red roses, purple lilac, sweet tobacco and brambles. The flavors are ample yet deep, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside earth. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côteaux Bourguignnons Pinot Noir ($29.99 - wine.com) - This comes from a small vineyard above the Côte de Nuits. It displays a deep crimson color and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, black roses, juniper berry, a hint of mint, and incense. The flavors are strikingly deep and full (sealed in by the amphorae) with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côte de Nuits Villages ($49.99 - wine.com) - This comes from Brochon which is situated between Fixin and Gerry-Chambertin. It shows a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild strawberries, red cherries, red currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously ripe and mouth-filling, with lavish red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted pecans, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a long, supple slightly grainy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

More Sparkling & French Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 November 2021

In last week's blog, I wrote about the differences between Champagne and other sparkling wines. Since then, we've been trying other sparkling wines from Europe and the U.S. Here are our finds.

N.V. Domaine Ste Michelle Brut Sparkling Rosé, Columbia Valley ($11.99 - Safeway) - This sparkler sports a light copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and pink lilac. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, mouth-filling, with red fruits that are accented by cherry stones, orange peel and minerals. The back enlivens with red fruit liqueurs, orange peel and CO2 on the way to a tangy nicely fruited finish. At $11.99, this is a steal. 18+/20 points.

2017 Argyle Vintage Sparkling Wine, Willamette Valley ($24.99 - Safeway) - This vintage is comprised of 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier. It displays an iridescent gold color, pinpoint bubbles and aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, white lilac, orange peel and white incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant ("disgorged on demand") with white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lees and brioche, followed by a CO2 enlivened Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Chandon, Blanc de Pinot Noir Brut Sparkling Wine, California ($18.99 - Safeway) - This copper-tinged gold colored wine offers streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink chewy, grapefruit, pink roses, cherry blossoms and wildflowers. The flavors are brisk yet well textured, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The slightly leesy textured back picks up touches of toasted nuts, brioche and creme fraiche, followed by a true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Chandon Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, California ($18.99 - Safeway) - A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this shows a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and fragrant aromas of strawberry, cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, comprised of red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and kirsch liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 La Marca Prosecco Rosé ($13.99 - Safeway) - La Marca is the best selling Italian Prosecco in the U.S., but is surprisingly good for a commercial brand. This vintage (check the date on the back) offers a copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and fresh aromas of strawberry pink cherry and orange peel. The flavors are brisk, enlivened by CO2 and accented by grape skins and cherry stones, followed on the back by strawberry liqueur and recurring orange peel on the crisp low alcohol (11%) finish. A Lynn favorite. 18+/20 points.

2020 Jeio "Bisol 1542"  Prosecco Brut Rosé ($18 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Light copper colored, this possesses streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink peach, Mandarin orange, pink roses, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are nicely fruited, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with strawberry and peach liqueurs and recurring orange peel, enliven by CO2 on the crisp, juicy low alcohol (11%) finish. 18+/20 points.

N.V. Loosen Bros "Dr. L" Sparkling Riesling ($19 - The Thief) - This German Sekt shows a brilliant lemon-gold color, streaming bubbles and fragrant aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and crisp, with white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape and, pear skins, CO2 and steely minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens further with pear and peach liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a dry, persistently minerally finish. "This is delicious - has character," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points. 

N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d'Alsace, Brut Réserve ($19 - The Thief) - Brilliant gold colored, this emits streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of apple, pear, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, white lilac and wet stone. The flavors are bright and resonant, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens further burgh poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon custard and toast, followed by a lively Brut finish. "So delicious," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Louis Boulliot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé, "Perle d'Aurore" ($23.99 - Safeway) - This is Pinot Noir with a bit of Gamay. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles, enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currant, blood orange, rose petals, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are nicely balanced, with pink fruits that are enlivened by grape skins and CO2. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a true Brut finish. "So festively pretty," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Laherte Frères Champagne Extra Brut ($52 - The Thief) - Here, Extra Brut means 4.5 g/L dosage instead of 6) Composed of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, it displays a light copper color, a frothy mousse and lovely aromas of Anjou pear, pink peach, blood orange, pear and orange tree blossoms and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are dramatic, with yellow and white fruits that are infused with grape and pear skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, recurring orange peel, lees and brioche, all counterpointed by CO2 on the dry, steely finish. 19/20 points.

New French Wines

Here are three Burgundies we've run across recently.

2021 Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Nouveau ($19.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Made in carbonic maceration "nouveau" style, this displays a crimson color and ripe, young aromas of strawberry, red red currant, pomegranate, red roses, purple lilac and whiffs of ground spices. The flavors are deliciously young and fresh, with copious red fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and a bit of earth. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and a bit of toasted nuts on the juicy finish. 18/20 points. 

2020 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village ($13.99 - Safeway) - This is an attractive new vintage. It offers a deep crimson color and engaging aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds, purple lilac and whiffs of ground spices. The medium bodied flavors are bright and fresh, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola and earth. The back picks up fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs in the way to a supple soft tannin finish. A tasty quaffable Beaujolais. 18/20 points.

2018 Justin Girardin Santenay Blanc, "Les Terrasses de Bievaux" ($32.99 - Esquin) - Santenay is situated at the southern end of the Côte d'Or. This Chardonnay presents a brilliant gold color and lovely aromas of Bosc pea, white peach, citrus, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and a hint of butternut. The flavors are vivid and true to variety, wish crisp yet viscous with white fruits that are imbued with grape skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and recurring butternut, followed by a lingering, finely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.

What is Champagne?

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 22 November 2021

"Would you like some more Champagne?" says the host, even when pouring an American sparkling wine. There is a difference between Champagne from the Champagne district of France and other sparkling wines. Anything else is not Champagne, even if it is bottle fermented. This is a critical issue for the Comité Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC). Legally, in the European Union, sparkling wines from outside Champagne can only be called "methode traditionelle" or "methode classique." In 2006, the U.S. banned the use of the Champagne name except for wineries already using it, being "grandfathered" (so you see Cook's or Andre being called "Champagne"). In the U.S., "methode Champenoise" is still legal, a rankling point for the CIVC. But Champagne houses owning American sparkling wine producers never use that term, only methode traditiionelle. Petilliant Naturelle wines ("Pet Nats") are called "methode ancestrale," bottle fermented sparkling wines without disgorgement. 

In the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines, you will find several American sparkling wines that are designated as methode traditiionelle or (incorrectly) methode champenoise. They are well made sparkling wines, but they are not Champagnes. 

There is a shortage of Champagne in the U.S. due to shipping delays. Many containers of Champagne and other European sparkling wines (French Cremant, Italian Prosecco, Spainish CAVA and German Sekt) are waiting to be unloaded at American seaports. A couple of weeks ago, I ordered one of our favorite brands of Champagne from Esquin and found out that it was sold out. As substitutes, I got these two which we found to be outstanding. Both come from proprietares-manipulants - grower-producers - who grow and make their own Champagnes. Generally proprietaires-manipulants produced more interesting Champagnes than those from negociant-manipulants from the well-known houses.

N.V. R. Dumont & Fils Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature ($50.99 - Esquin) - This wine was aged 4 years on the lees (instead of 3) to give it extra richness to counterpoint the zero dosage. It displays a brilliant light copper color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, nectarine, orange peel, pink roses, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are laser-like yet rich and expansive, with notes of grape skins, nectarine stone and distinct minerality. The resonance continues on the back with bracing fruit acids counterpointed by a leesy texture and fraise and Cointreau liqueurs, all followed by a lengthy, bone dry yet finely fruited finish. 19+/20 points.

N.V. Jean Vesselle Champagne Brut Reserve ($51.99 - Esquin) - From Bouzy, which grows mostly Pinot Noir, this is a striking Champagne. It exhibits a light copper color, fine streaming bubbles and lovely aromas of wild strawberry, peach, mandarin orange, cantaloupe and orange tree blossoms. The flavors are exquisitely wrought, with red and yellow fruits that are interwoven with grape skins, peach stones and saline minerals. On the back, the wine takes a tantalizing turn with fraise and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and recurring orange peel, followed by a lingering CO2 lifted, persistently minerally Brut finish. 19+/20 points.

Happy Thanksgiving

Once again, I have to say that Thanksgiving is a distinctly American Holiday and should be celebrated with American wines. My recommendation is to have a not too tannic wine (steer away from Cabernet Sauvignon) such as a Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir. A sparkling wine such as those in the December issue of the Review of Washington or a California one (Chandon is one our favorites) will also do nicely. Just don't call it Champagne. Enjoy your dinner with your favorite American wine!

French Wines and California Pinots Tasted Recently

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 17 November 2021

New French Wines

Here are our latest discoveries in exceptional yet affordable French wines.

2020 Nicolas Idiart Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc ($27.99 - Esquin) - This is the first Sancerre I've seen with Sauvignon Blanc on the front label. It is a fine rendition of the grape. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of Anjou pear, peach, quince, Casaba melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, jasmine and wet stone. The flavors are fresh and brisk, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. On the back the wine enlivens further with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel, followed by a persistently mineraly, crisp finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Régis Minet Pouilly Fumé, Vieilles Vignes ($30.99 - Esquin) - Pouilly-sur-Loire is across the river from Sancerre. This shows a brilliant light gold color and floral aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, Crenshaw melon, a hint of quince, with scents of pear blossoms, meadow flowers and wet stone. The flavors are vivid and refined, marked by grape and pear skins, cut grass and saline minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire William liqueur and hazelnut, followed by s crisp yet silky finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Perraud de la Grande Burette Mâcon-Villages, Vieilles Vignes ($18.99 - wine.com) - This offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, white peach, pear blossoms, acacia flowers (a trait of Mâconnais) and white incense. The flavors are pure Chardonnay, with bright white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and slate minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and almond, followed by a crisp finish. A cut above the usual Mâcon Villages which gives it a plus. 18+/20 points.

2019 Jean-Marc Boillot Bourgogne Blanc ($26.99 - wine.com) - This comes from a grower in Pommard. It shows a brilliant gold color and enticing aromas of pear, white peach, citrus and wet stone, with scents of pear blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are mouth filling and resonate with notes of pear, peach stones and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine turns silky textured yet well delineated, with poire and pêche liqueurs, light oak (30% new) and a touch of creaminess (full malolactic) on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Justin Girardin Santenay Blanc, "Les Terrasses de Bienvaux" ($32.99 - Esquin) - Santenay is situated at the southern end of the Côte d'Or. This Chardonnay presents a brilliant gold color and lovely aromas of Bosc pear white peach, citrus, pear blossoms, wisteria and a hint of butternut. The flavors are vivid and true to variety, with crisp yet viscous white fruits that are imbued with peach stones and stony minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and recurring butternut, followed by a lingering, finely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Domaine de Chênepierre Chénas ($21.99 - Esquin) - Chénas is one of the least well known us of Beaujolais. This one received a Medaille d'Or at the Concours des Vins du Beaujolais. It offers a deep purplish-ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, black currant, black roses, purple lilac, rubbed sage and sweet incense. The flavors are generous and vigorous a fewous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and schist minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy yet silky textured, with pressed fruits, mocha, and framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a pleasing moderate ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Affordable 2019 California Pinot Noirs

I read in winemag.com (the on-line publication of the Wine Enthusiast) that the 2019 Pinot Noirs from California were exceptional and included many excellent values. I picked up a few from wine.com and at supermarkets and found them to offer high quality for their prices.

2019 Bogle Vineyards Pinot Noir, California ($10.98 - Super 1) - This was one of the Best Buys in the winemag.com article (89 points). It shows a medium brick red color and aromas of red fruits - strawberry, cherry, currant - with scents of rosebuds, orange peel and whiffs of stick incense. The medium bodied flavors are generous and fruit driven, with notes of red licorice, cola and earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, strawberry and kirsch liqueurs, followed by s well fruited soft tannin finish. 17.5/20 points.

2019 La Crema Pinot Noir, Monterey ($16.99 - Safeway) - This shows a medium brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds, orange peel and wafts of orange incense. The flavors are medium bodied and direct, with pleasing red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and Monterey wind-blown earth. The appeal continues on the back with gently pressed fruits, kirsch and recurring orange peel, followed by a plush soft tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2019 La Crema Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($21.99 - Safeway) - This is a fine example of cool climate Pinot Noir. I shows a brick red color and attractive aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, orange peel, forest carpet and incense. The flavors are generous yet substantial, with notes of red licorice, cola, orange pekoe tea and coastal wind blown earth. On the back, the focus increases with pressed fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and touches of nougat and cherry preserves, followed by a pleasing moderate tannin finish, lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Hartford Court Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($34.99 - wine.com) - The Russian River Valley in Sonoma County is one of the best AVAs for Pinot Noir. This one shows a brick red color and engaging aromas of wild strawberries, black currants, crushed rose petals, sweet tobacco, forest carpet, orange peel and sweet incense. The flavors are simultaneously lavish and deep, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, Belgian chocolate, black tea and riverside minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with macerated fruits, roasted pecans, recurring orange peel and soft charcoal, followed by a lingering sweetish tannin finish. The highest quality/price ratio of the Pinots tasted. 19/20 points.

2019 Hanzell "Sebella" Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($35.99 - wine.com) - Brick red colored, this wine possesses attractive aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, brambly currants, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, cedar, forest carpet and orange incense. The flavors are rich and chewy, with notes of licorice root, cola, black tea and gravel and loam. The back reveals macerated berries, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a slightly grainy ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Melville Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($41.99 - wine.com) - The Santa Rita Hills of the Central Coast is another fine AVA for Pinot Noir. This one shows a medium brick red color and intriguing aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, red currants, crushed red roses, mulberry, pine needles and whiffs of stick incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with tasty medium bodied red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and Santa Rita wind blown earth. On the back, the velvety texture is enlivened by bright fruit acids on the soft tannin finish. 19/20 points. 

2019 Twomey Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($49.99 - wine.com and Safeway) - Twomey is a part of the Family of Silver Oak. This is the priciest but best of the Pinots tasted. It shows a brick red color and a seductive nose of fraises de bois, red cherries, brambly currants, crushed rose petals, forest carpet, orange peel and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with lavish yet focused red fruits that are infused with red licorice, cocoa powder, Earl Grey tea and Russian River gravelly loam. On the back, the wine takes an elegant turn with pressed fruits, fraise and cassis liqueur, recurring orange peel and charcoal stick, followed by a lengthy ripe moderate tannin finish, lifted by fruit acids. 19+/20 points.