Top Wines of 2018

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 18 December 2018

Here is our annual list of wines reviewed in The Review of Washington Wines in 2018. Some wines may be sold out.

Wines Scoring 20/20 Points

2013 DeLille Cellars Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($160) - January

2016 Rotie Cellars "Little g" Grenache, Washington State ($60) - October

Wines Scoring 19.5/20 Points

2015 Va Piano Black Label Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($65) - January

2015 Va Piano Black Label Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Stoney Vine Vineyard ($65) - January

2012 Côtes de Ciel "Flagship Reserve" Red Wine, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($65) - January

2015 Gramercy Cellars "John Lewis" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($85) - January

2015 Gramercy Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($95) - January

2015 Sinclair Estate "Mixolodian" Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($50) - January

2014 Sinclair Estate "Appassionata" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($75) - January

2014 Buty "Rediviva of the Stones" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Rockgarden Vineyard ($60) - January

2013 Array Cellars "Nina's Reserve" Chardonnay, Washington State ($36) - February

2015 Long Shadows "Saggi" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($55) - March

2015 Long Shadows "Feather" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($65) - March

2015 Long Shadows "Pirouette" Red Wine, Columbia Valley (($60)

2015 Long Shadows "Sequel" Syrah, Columbia Valley ($60)

2014 Long Shadows "Chester Kidder" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($60) - March

2015 L'Ecole No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($65) - April

2015 Avennia "Arnaut" Syrah, Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard ($50) - April

2015 Avennia "Sestina' Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($65) - April

2015 Saviah Cellars "The Funk" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Funk Vineyard ($60) - May

2012 Tero Estates Hill Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard ($53) - May

2012 Tero Estates Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard ($57) - May

2016 Leonetti Cellar Merlot, Walla Walla Valley ($75) - June

2015 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($95) - June

2013 Corliss Syrah, Columbia Valley ($75) - June

2014 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Lewis Vineyard ($75) - June

2015 DeLille Cellars "Chaleur Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($80) - June

2015 DeLille Cellars "Harrison Hill" Red Wine, Snipes Mountain ($90) - June

2014 Woodward Canyon "Old Vines" Cabernet Sauvignon. Washington State ($75) - July

2015 Seven Hills Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($45) - August

2015 àMaurice Cellars "Fred" Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($60) - September

2014 Revelry Vintners "D11" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Dionysus Vineyard ($80) - September

2016 Rotie Cellars "dre" Mourvèdre, Washington State ($60) - October

2016 Proper Wine Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($60) - October

2015 Rotie Cellars "Homage" Red Wine, Washington State ($60) - October 

2015 àMaurice Cellars "Amparo" Estate Malbec, Walla Walla Valley ($47) - November

2015 àMaurice Cellars "Night Owl" Estate Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($60) - November

2016 Sleight of Hand "Psychedelic" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Stoney Vine Vineyard ($60) - November

2016 Aluvé "Primo Volo" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($48) - November

2015 Walla Walla Vintners "Vineyard Select" Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($60) - November

2013 Tero Estates Plateau Block Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard ($55) - November

2015 Abeja Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Heather Hill Vineyard ($68) - December

2016 The Walls "Concrete Mama" Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, River Rock Vineyard ($73) - December

2015 The Walls "Concrete Mama" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Stoney Vine Vineyard ($73) - December

2014 Rasa Vineyards "Principia" Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($95) - December

2014 Rasa Vineyards "Veritas Sequitur" Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, SJR Vineyard ($95) - December

2014 Rasa Vineyards "Fianchetto" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, XL Vineyard ($95) - December

2016 Mark Ryan "Little Sister" Merlot, Columbia Valley ($75) - December

2015 Woodward Canyon "Old Vines" Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State ($99) - December

2015 Gramercy Cellars "Lagniappe" Syrah, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard ($60) - December

Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend in Walla Walla

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 11 December 2018

This year, the annual Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend was December 7-9. It's the time of year when the wineries and barrel rooms are decorated with lights and greenery. Here are the highlights. 

On Thursday, the 6th, we kicked off the weekend early with a tasting and dinner with Oregon and Burgundy Pinot Noirs brought by our out of town guests. Stu and Barb Vos  came from North Carolina and Jeff and Laurie Freude from Iowa, and Doug and Jan Roskelley from Tero Estates. We had three 2005 Burgundies. The Heritiers Louis Latour Chambertin Grand Cru was outstanding, mature but holding well, with semi dried fruits and a long, complex finish. The 2005 Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru had an odd aroma, not corked, but still off, maybe brettanomyces. The Domaine de Perdrix Echezeaux Grand Cru was also outstanding, smoky and sultry, redolent of oriental perfumes, and still holding well. I kicked in a 2009 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux which also showed well, with considerable elegance and complexity. There were two 2012 Oregon Pinot Noirs from the Shea Vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton district, one from Ken Wright and the other from Shea Vineyards. Both were deliciously velvety, yet well delineated. The tasting and dinner was preceded by a lovely Roses de Jeanne Champagne Blanc de Blancs and a delicious 2000 Grahams Vintage Port which can easily go another 18 years. 

On Friday morning, I drove over to L'Ecole No. 41 in the Lowden Schoolhouse. There, I was greeted by Marty Clubb and Constance Savage (the new General Manager) who presented me with a Magnum of 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot in honor of the 10th Anniversary of the Review of Washington Wines. It was inscribed "Rand, Congratulations on 10 years! Marty Clubb." We reminisced about the decades in the wine industry, including Baker Ferguson, the founder of l'Ecole, who was one of my first customers at Esquin in 1970. I also tasted barrel samples of 2017's (see below) and a Library selection of 2015, 2012 and 2008 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. 

Friday evening was the Tero Estates and Waters Winemaker Holiday Feast at the Marc. It was a fabulous dinner., starting off with Caramelized Brie and Beets with the 2013 Waters Prelude White, then Smoked Pork Belly wit the 2013 Waters Tremolo Grenache-Syrah Blend. In between, the Marc's famous Tableside Liquid Nitrogen Sorbet was served. The entrée was Coffee Crusted New York Strip with the 2013 Tero Estates Plateau Block Cabernet Sauvignon and the dessert was Flourless Chocolate Decadence with the 2015 Tero Estates Cabernet Franc. 

Saturday morning I visited some wineries for barrel tasting, checking out the 2017 and 2016 vintages (see my notes below). In the afternoon, we stopped at Tero Estates to taste some 2016s and to hear Paul Gregutt sing and play his guitar. In the afternoon, we went to Reynvaan Family Vineyards where Matt and Lauren Reynvaan debuted their second MTR Productions Syrah, the 2013 "Memory Found." It was the kind of wine that is for you,"if you like a brawny, meaty yet elegant Syrah." 19.5/20 points. A full review will be in January 2019 issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 

On Sunday afternoon, we went to Jim and Kim Waddle's annual Open House where there were some delectable offerings, including Serrano Ham from a smoked leg, a delicious creamed wild mushroom bruschetta and authentic pâtes. There were lots of delicious wines being poured as well. This made for a fun cap to the Barrel Tasting Weekend.

Wines Tasted from the Barrel

2017 L'Ecole No. 41 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley - This showed enticing aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses and incense. The flavors showed considerable varietal character with notes of cacao, French roast and minerals. 19/20 points.

2017 L'Ecole No. 41 Ferguson Estate Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley - Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec, this showed a deep ruby color and floral aromas and deep, well delineated flavors, marked by dark fruits, coffee and basaltic minerals, followed by a long, long finish. To be bottled Summer 2019 and released Spring 2020. 19.5/20 points.

2017 Reininger Cabernet Sauvignon, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley - Deep ruby colored, this was a highly aromatic wine - blackberries, cherries plums, crushed roses, incense, with deep, authoritative flavors of dark fruits, cacao and minerals and a long finish. 19+/20 points.

2017 Tero Estates Mary's Block Malbec, Walla Walla Valley - Tasted at Waters, this showed a purplish young color and intense aromas of blackberry, cherry, blueberry, black roses and loads of powerful dark fruits. 19+/20 points, possibly 19.5/20.

2017 Waters Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley - With a backbone from the Cold Creek Vineyard, this displayed an opaque purplish color and a bold, intense nose of dark fruits, roses and. Full and authoritative, with a long finish, this should go to 19.5/20 points.

2017 Saviah Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Funk Vineyard - Ruby-crimson colored, this showed seductive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, cassis, roses, lilac, lavender and oriental incense. The flavors were beautifully thick and satiny yet deep and penetrating. 19.5/20, possibly 20/20 points.

2017 Va Piano Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Eritage Vineyard - Aged in neutral oak, this expressed varietal purity with rich, savory aromas and flavors of wild berrries, violets and incense. The wine abounded with alluring ripe fruits on the palate, simultaneously chewy and satiny.  19.5/20 points.

2016 VaPiano Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, Rosebud Vineyard - This presented a deep ruby color and an intriguing nose of dark fruits, crushed roses, tobacco, black olives and incense. The flavors were thick and authoritative, yet accessible. To be bottled early 2019 and released Summer. 19/20 points.

2016 Tero Estates Herb's Block Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard - Ruby-garnet colored, this possessed an exotic nose raspberry, cherry, plum, rose petals, tobacco, truffles and incense. The flavors were thick and well structured yet fleshy. The finish was long and chewy. 19+/20 points.

2016 Tero Estates Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley - This varietal showed a deep ruby color and a sultry, smoky, perfumed nose of black cherries, plums, crushed roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors were bold and fleshy, yet focused, with a long, spicy finis. Will age well. 19+/20 points.

2017 Dunham Cellars Syrah, Columbia Valley, Lewis Vineyard - Fermented in new French oak puncheons, this showed a semi opaque purplish color and intoxicating aromas of wild blackberries, blueberries and cassis, with scents crushed roses, sweet tobacco, violets and incense. The true to variety flavors were full bore, with a penetrating long finish. 19.5/20 points.

2017 Dunham Cellars Kenny Hill Red Blend, Columbia Valley - This blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Malbec and 13% Petit Verdot showed a deep ruby-crimson color and a perfumed nose of dark fruits, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, sweet oak and incense. Th e flavors were long and velvety, accented by toasty oak (100% new French) all throttling into a long, long finish. 19.5/20 points.

The Less Well-known Appellations of Burgundy

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 03 December 2018

In Burgundy, the Appellations d'Origine Controlle such as those of Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Corton, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet are well-known. But what about Marsannay, Monthelie, Maranges and others? Wines from near more famous towns can produce exceptional wines that can be great values as well. Here are some wines Lynn and I have tasted recently that merit attention. 

Marsannay 

Marsannay is situated at the northern end of the Côte d'Or, next to Fixin. Red (Pinot Noir) white (Chardonnay) and rosé wines are produced. One of the top producers is Regis Bouvier from whom the following two wines come.

2016 Regis Bouvier Marsannay Blanc, "Les Longeroies" ($34.99 - wine.com) - This shows a crystalline gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, lime, wet stone and white incense. The flavors are simultaneously rich and taut, with notes of peach stone, pear skin and saline minerals. The back picks up Calvados and pêche liqueurs and toasted nuts on the way to a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Regis Bouvier Marsannay Rouge, "Clos du Roy" ($38.99 - wine.com) - This displays a deep brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cerise and cassis with scents of rosebuds, orange peel, lavender, forest carpet and wafts of wood smoke. The true to variety flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with notes of cocoa, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The smooth textured back picks up gently pressed fruits, creme de cassis and recurring orange peel, followed by a pleasing soft tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

Monthélie

Monthélie is located between Volnay and Meursault. The wines are mostly red and the best vineyard is the Premier Cru Les Champs Fuillot which is just across the road from the Premier Cru Volnay Caillerets. 

2016 Louis Jadot Monthélie "Sous Roches" ($42.99 - wine.com) - Brick red colored, this possesses perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, old tree cherries and red currants with scents of wild red flowers, lilac and incense. The medium bodied flavors, as well, are charming, with notes of licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries and crème de cassis, followed by a pleasing soft tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2015 Domaine Dubuet-Monthelie Monthelie 1er Cru, Les Champs Fuillot ($42.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this emits seductive aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, crushed roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of oriental incense. The flavors are alluring, with velvety yet substantial pure Pinot Noir flavors that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast and minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, kirsch and creme de cassis, leading effortlessly into a faintly sweetish finish. 18.5+/20 points.

Saint-Aubin

Saint-Aubin is situated on the slope overlooking Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet. The vineyard plantings consist of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir and the wines are similar to those if it's neighbors.

2015 Domaine Gérard Thomas Saint-Aubin "Champs Tirant" ($32.99 - Total Wine) - This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and a distinctive Chardonnay nose of white peach, citrus and wet stone. The flavors, as well, are striking, with notes of peach stone, grape soon and limestone. On the back, the wine intensifies, with sensations of Calvados and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon zest and crème fraiche, followed by a crisp yet viscous finish. 18.5/20 points.

Maranges

Maranges is at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, just past Santenay, comprised of the communes of Dezize and Sampigny. The wines are mostly red with some white. 

2015 Domaine Maurice Charleux & Fils Maranges 1er Cru, Les Clos Roussots ($28.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this possesses a smoky nose of strawberries, cherries, currants, orange peel, crushed roses, pine needles and incense. The medium bodied flavors show distinct Pinot character, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, breakfast tea and earth. On the back, the wine intensifies with sensations of macerated berries, toasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and graphite, followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Jean-Claude Boisset Maranges 1er Cru, La Fussière ($32.99 - wine.com) - This bottling, from a respected Nuits-St. Georges negociant offers a deep ruby color and intense aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, black roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors are robust for a Côte de Beaune, with layered red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The back palate is vigorous, with distinct Pinot character, along with smooth tannins. 18.5/20 points.

Côte Chalonnaise

The Côte Chalonnaise is situated south of the Côte d'Or and north of the Maconnais in the Odense River Valley. The main communes are Mercurey and Givry (mostly reds) and Rully and Montagny (mostly whites).

2016 Faiveley Mercurey, "La Framboisière" ($38.99 - wine.com) - This offers a a deep brick red color and enticing aromas of framboise, cerise, cassis, red roses, sweet tobacco, lilac and white incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with velvety yet deep, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and riverside minerals. The back reveals sensations of framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha and pencil shavings, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. A real charmer which gives it a plus. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Château de Chamirey Mercurey ($35.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this emits definite Pinot aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, roses, tobacco, earth and incense. The flavors are simultaneously velvety and muscular, endowed with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and riverside earth. The penetration continues on the back with pressed berries, roasted nuts and charcoal dust, followed by a smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Domaine Ragot Givry, Vieilles Vignes ($29.99 - wine.com) - This is a well-priced Pinot Noir. It shows a brick red color and enticing aromas of cherry, plum and black currant with scents of crushed roses, tobacco leafing incense. The flavors are supple yet deep and well dilates, with notes of cocoa, French roast and earth and minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Chaintré

Pouilly-Fuissé and Macon-Villages are well known sources for Chardonnay. But what is Chaintré? The commune straddles the Macon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé delimited appellations. The Villages wine is called Macon-Chaintré and the wine from the Fuissé side can be called Pouilly-Fuissé. 

2016 Domaine Cormin Macon-Chaintré ($24.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses floral aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of pear skin and limestone. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs on the way to a brisk, finely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.

2016 Domaine Cormin Pouilly-Fuissé (31.99 - wine.com) - This comes from the Fuissé side of Chaintré and is organically farmed. It shows a brilliant gold color and perfumed aromas of pear, white peach, citrus, acacia flowers, peach blossoms and white incense. The flavors are well extracted and finely fruited (indigenous yeasts and sur lie aging), with notes of peach stone and pear skin and limestone. The varietal intensity continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of brioche and lemon zest, followed by a brisk terroir-driven finish. 18.5/20 points. 

2016 Marie-Pierre Manciat Pouilly-Fuissé, "Les Petites Bruyères" ($28.99 - wine.com) - This is a fruit-driven style of Pouilly-Fuissé. It displays a brilliant gold color and a lovely floral nose of pear, peach, apricot, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, lemon verbena, and whiffs of white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with varietally pure character, marked by grape and pear skins and granitic minerals and touches of nougat and crème fraiche, followed by a pleasingly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

How the Review of Washington Wines Came into Being

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 25 November 2018

In December of 2008, the inaugural issue of the Review of Washington Wines went on line. Here's how it came into being.

When I owned Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle from 1969 to 1997, it was run mainly as a mail order based business. I sent newsletters and brochures to our customers with descriptions of the wines offered. So I have been a wine writer since 1969. Many customers came to trust my wine selection judgment and descriptions.

In 1997, I sold Esquin to Chuck LeFevre, who still owns the wine store in SODO. I continued as a consultant, mostly in the writing of descriptions for the store's newsletters. In 2008, Lynn and I moved part-time to Walla Walla where we now live full-time. I wrote monthly descriptions of Washington wines for Esquin. 

When the recession of 2008 hit, I was let go at Esquin, which was no great surprise. Then I came up with the idea of putting my wine writing experience to work in an independent on-line publication. I named it the Review of Washington Wines (even though it included wines from contiguous cross-state AVAs). I produced a sample issue which I showed to friends in the industry and to consumers and was encouraged to continue with the project. 

Then, after considerable research, I found Advantagecom Networks in Walla Walla to do the website development and hosting for reviewofwashingtonwines.com, a relationship that has continued to this day. Amy Kinney has been a great help in producing every single monthly issue. Steadily, the subscription list has grown  and the number of wines reviewed in each issue has expanded from 30 initially to 40, then 50, and now 60 per month. 

So now as we go into the eleventh year of this publication in 2019, I look forward to tasting more wines and writing more reviews. Another milestone next year will be my celebration of fifty years in the wine industry. There will be a celebration event in the spring, which will be announced. All of you will be invited. My thanks to all of you who have made my publication a success.