- Written by Rand Sealey
An Update on Nicholas Cole Cellars
Back in March of 2009, I did a Focus write-up on Nicholas Cole Cellars. I found owner-winemaker Mike Neuffer's Estate wines to be highly impressive, rating them 19+ points. Recently, I revisited these wines at the Nicholas Cole tasting room in Walla Walla with General Manager Jeanie Inglis-Chowanietz. The ratings remain the same, but the prices have been reduced considerably in the light of today's wine market. As such, these wines now represent exceptional value for their high quality levels.
My notes (August 16, 2010) in order of tasting:
2005 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Camille," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($35)
This blend of 45% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cab Franc and 1% Petit Verdot offers a smoky, exotic raspberry, boysenberry and cassis nose with scents of dried roses and tobacco. The chewy, textured flavors show a dried fruit character, with tones of licorice and mocha that lead into a ripe, chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. (Not reviewed 3/2009 - new addition).
2006 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Juliet," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($34)
This 53% Sangiovese, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cab Franc blend, with dashes of Merlot and Petit Verdot, exhibits a rich berry nose with scents of tobacco, sandalwood and clove. The flavors are medium-bodied, but show a classy character, with lovely supple fruits that lead on to a long, complex pomegranate and orange peel finish. 19/20 points.
2005 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Michele," Walla Walla Valley Estate ($38)
A blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this is a head-turner. It emits an exotic bouquet of raspberry, cassis, sandalwood, crushed roses, oriental perfumes and cigar box. Finely-fruited and focused, it displays an exoticism that continues through the back, laced with orange peel, silty minerals, mocha and licorice, supported by chewy tannins and fine acidity on the lingering finish. 19.5/20 points.
2006 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Dauphine" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Estate ($36)
Deep purplish colored, this wine offers a sensuous blackberry and cassis nose with whiffs of lavender, incense, spice and pepper. On the palate, the flavors are lush and chewy, yet well-focused - the essence of Syrah. A juicy back is accompanied by licorice, coffee grounds, chocolate, semi-dried fruits and silty earth minerals, followed by a seductive lingering, lightly spiced finish. 19/20 points.
2005 Nicholas Cole Estate Reserve, Walla Walla Valley ($75)
This blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot is a stunning wine. It shows an exotic, intoxicating nose of wild semi-dried berries, with scents of lavender, rose petals and oriental perfumes. The flavors are deliciously silky, yet well-defined, flowing seamlessly through a ripe, berried backdrop, marked by nuts, silt earth and vanilla bean. The oak is subtle, never obvious, even though 100% new Taransaud barrels, and is accompanied by spices, orange peel, toffee and pomegranate on a long, fine-grained tannin finish. 19.5+/20 points.
A Subscriber Comment on Last Week's Blog, "Is Walla Walla going to be the next Napa?"
A few days ago, I received this email from Rick Johnson, owner of Walla Faces winery and Walla Faces Inns in Walla Walla.
"I have to agree with most comments in this article. I think that the remoteness of Walla Walla is why it will never be another Napa. I grew up in Seattle and never travelled to Walla Walla until five years ago. Walla Walla is on the way to nowhere. It has not been a destination until the recent wine industry success. However, that being said it is still not easy to get here. As mentioned in your blog it is a 4.5 hour drive from either Seattle or Portland. Airline access is extremely limited. Horizon currently has only two flights a day coming from Seattle.
I see Walla Walla not as a future Napa. But rather, I see it as a unique wine area in the state of Washington. It has many boutique wineries, scenic interest with the Blue Mountains, and as Debbie says a "cute Downtown" that harkens back to days of old. I know that there are some locals that are afraid of seeing this remote corner of the state changing. I don't think they need to worry too much."
(To see last week's blog, scroll down.)
- Written by Rand Sealey
Is Walla Walla the Next Napa?
In his post of August 10 in his Washington Wine Report (www.wawinereport.com) Sean Sullivan has an article entitled "Why Walla Walla will never be Napa." He points out that "Napa has a built-in tourist industry that Walla Walla will never have." Millions of visitors a year go to Napa, many of them day trippers (with its proximity to the Bay Area). Walla Walla is over four hours away from Seattle and Portland. Also, there are proportionally more small producers in Walla Walla than in Napa where the production scale is huge.
This post elicited 19 comments, much more than usual. One compared Walla Walla to the aggressive growth in Woodinville which seems to be aiming for Number One as a wine destination. The most impassioned comments came from Catie McIntyre Walker (the Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman) who wrote: "Right. I cannot tell you how many times I have stamped my feet, yelled at anybody who would listen to me, cringed when some enthusiastic writer from LA or NY (who has never actually visited Walla Walla) thought they cleverly coined that phrase and several times myself blogged, "Walla Walla will never be another Napa." Due to the fact that we are too far away from anything major - and thank goodness for that!"
Rusty Eddy's comment is right to the point: "Walla Walla doesn't want to be Napa any more than Washington wants to be California. The value of WW is its uniqueness. (On the other hand, WW wineries and merchants probably wouldn't turn down any additional wine tourist dollars." An anonymous commenter brought up the "Don't Bend Walla Walla" cry a few years ago when a developer from Oregon tried to build a 365 unit development complete with a golf course, trails and a restaurant, but also coveted rural water and farmland in the process.
Catie's final comment was "Walla Walla is a funny little town and has always been that way. We want growth, but not too much, especially if it means we have to change things. Believe it or not, there are several citizens who hate-hate-hate the wine industry and feel that everything wrong with the city, the wineries are responsible and should be made to fix the problems...." Sean's reply was, "Very difficult to get the balance right. I am sure there are many in Walla Walla who are not pleased that the wine industry has grown there...."
I concur with just about all that was said. As one who lives here 40% of the year, I do not want Walla Walla to become another Napa (or Bend for that matter) any more than Catie Walker does. The inherent charm of WW is its eclectic mix of wine people, academics (3 college campuses) farmers and artists, along with the small town ambience and the majestic Blues. That is Walla Walla's biggest asset and future growth needs to be built on that. Oh, about the lack of proximity to Seattle, Portland and other cities, hey, Alaska/Horizon Air where are the Air/Lodging/Car Rental packages for Walla Walla?!!
- Written by Rand Sealey
The 2010 Seattle Wine Awards
A couple of weeks ago, I picked up a copy of a list of the 2010 Seattle Wine Awards and upon perusing it was surprised to discover how much correlation there was with my Review ratings. I had received several announcements about the tasting and the Awards Banquet, but hadn't paid much attention until I looked at the awards list. I have long believed that Wine Competition Gold medals have little, if any, value. I agree with the conclusions of Robert Hodgson in the "Journal of Wine Economics" that "the probability of winning a Gold medal at one competition is stochastically independent of the probability of winning a Gold at another competition, indicating that winning a Gold medal is greatly influenced by chance alone." (See my blog of June 13). But I found a comparison of the Seattle Wine Awards with my ratings of the same wines, to be an exception.
Of the 105 wines in the Awards competition that I have rated highly in the Review of Washington Wines, 90 received Gold or Double Gold Awards. This is an 86% correlation, a remarkably high one. There were 15 wines which got Silver or Bronze which, according to my review scores should have gotten Gold, not a statistically high deviation. I noted that of these 15, ten were in the Syrah/Rhone Style categories where the wide range in styles may account for these differences, as personal stylistic preferences may come into play more than with other varietals or blends. Several of these are very distinctive wines and may not have scored as uniformly well as others in the Awards Tasting.
How do I account for the significantly high correlation between my ratings and the Seattle Wine Awards? I looked at the tasting panel members and saw that all have much experience in the wine industry and in wine appreciation. I have read their bios on the Awards website and found them to be most impressive. The panel is composed of highly qualified wine tasters. I also note that the wines were scored on a modified 20 point system as I do.
My conclusion here is that a wine competition need not always be a random event where the awarding of medals is subjected to the luck of the draw in meeting the preferences of the tasting panel members. In reviewing wines, I have always tried to be objective and evaluate them on a qualitative rather than stylistic one. The Seattle Wine Awards tasting panel has succeeded for the most part in this goal as well.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Full Pull Paul Redux
On April 29th, I wrote a Review Blog article (posted May 1) about Paul Zitarelli's Full Pull Wines wine store. As I explained in the article, the Full Pull system is to offer wines a few weeks before they arrive in the warehouse, take orders and fill them upon arrival. To learn more, scroll down to the bottom of this page, then back to the previous page, then scroll down to that posting. Since that article, there have been several wines offered by Full Pull that have been reviewed favorably in my Review of Washington Wines. I checked with Paul to find out which wines are still available for ordering from Full Pull. Here they are, together with Full Pull's pricing.
2006 Fall Line Cellars, Artz Vineyard Red Blend, Red Mountain (Full Pull TPU $21.99) - Actually, I reviewed the '07 Fall Line (June issue, 18.5 points) which I found to be a bit better than the '06. But the TPU pricing is so great, I'm recommending it. 18+/20 points.
2009 Ross Andrew Pinot Gris, Columbia Gorge, Celilo Vineyard (TPU $16.99) - Paul's recent offering prompted me to try this wine. It's fresh, lively with notes of melon, citrus and a hint of cream,. To be reviewed in the September issue. 18+/20 points.
2007 Grand Reve Collaboration Series III Syrah, Red Mountain (TPU $39.99) - This is reviewed in this month's issue of the Review (August). 19/20 points.
2005 Nicholas Cole Cellars "Camille" Walla Walla Valley (TPU $25.99) - This Sangiovese-Cabernet blend was not included in my January 2009 Focus article on Nicholas Cole, but it would have been rated 18.5 points. For under $26, it's a steal.
2005 Nicholas Cole "Michele" Walla Walla Valley (TPU $38.99) - I found this Bordeaux-style blend to be so stunning that I gave it 19.5/20 points in the January 2009 issue.
2009 Syncline Gruner Veltliner, Columbia Gorge, Underwood Mountain Vineyard (TPU $17.79) - This is another wine that Full Pull turned me on to. It's an intriguing, offbeat type of white wine from a grape originating in Austria. To be reviewed in September, 18+/20 points.
2008 Maison Bleue "La Montagnette" Grenache, Yakima Valley (TPU $17.99) - I found Jon Martinez' La Montagnette to a fine example of Grenache in the April issue. 18.5/20 points.
2009 Dowsett Family Gewurztraminer, Columbia Gorge, Celilo Vineyard (TPU $17.69) - Another fine white from the noted Celilo Vineyard above the Columbia River. Reviewed in the July Review issue. 18+/20 points.
2009 Hestia Cellars Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley (TPU $13.49) - Owner/winemaker Shannon Jones does a great job with this underrated white variety. 18+/20 points.
2007 Rasa Vineyards "Principia" Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley (TPU $76.99) - A compelling wine, Pinto and Billo Naravane's Principia is the second wine to be rated 20/20 points in the Review.
Washington Wine Tastings at Esquin in August
In Esquin Wine Merchants' August newsletter, there is a schedule of tastings of Washington Wines. There are quite a few wineries for which I have high regard that will be represented at these events. These will be great opportunities to try their wines. Here's a schedule:
Cru Selections Boutique Wineries - Thursday, August 5 5-6:30 p.m.
Trust & Airfield Wineries - Saturday, August 7 2-5 p.m.
Haystack, McCrea & Sinclair Wineries - Thursday, August 12 5-6:0 p.m.
VaPiano & Seven Hills Vineyards - Saturday, August 14 2-5 p.m.
Hestia & William Church Wineries - Thursday, August 19 5-6:30 p.m.
Baer & Cadaretta Wineries - Thursday, August 26 5-6:30 p.m.
Gilbert Cellars & CAVU - Saturday, August 28 2-5 p.m.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Comments on "Stalking the Wines of Washington"
The Wall Street Journal's July 10 "On Wine" column by Lettie Teague has left me somewhat perplexed. It seems as though Ms. Teague purports to have been "Stalking the Wines of Washington" while on a visit to the state (including the Wine Bloggers Conference which I attended) only to ferret out a handful of examples to illustrate the promises and problems of Washington Wines. The article, in my opinion, shows only part of the picture.
The picture that emerges from this article is that Washington wines enjoy high price-quality ratios., adding, "But thanks to the current global wine glut there are a lot of great deals around, at prices that make those of Washington's producers seem rather high - and this has put a crimp in many Washington producers' wine sales." Part of the problem is in the Washington State wine brand. Aside from Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest (brands in themselves) few Washington wines are found in major markets like New York (I found this out myself on a visit to three Manhattan stores last June).
The article points to the scale of production of Washington Wines , in many instances a few hundred cases (I know a lot of these wineries) which make their wines more expensive to produce than their European or South American counterparts. But I know from experience that the overall quality level in our state is much higher. Of the diversity of varieties, the article says "... this seeming asset may be part of the problem." I, on the other hand, think the diversity of grapes is an asset. The ability to produce a multiplicity of varietals well stands in contrast to Oregon which is simply Pinot (Noir) and Pinot (Gris).
Ms. Teague points out that of the 700 registered wineries in the state, the actual number selling appreciable amounts of wine must be much smaller. "Perhaps their troubles were smaller as well.," Ms. Teague suggests. If so, why ask, "is all this growth actually good?" Why do tourists keep coming to Walla Walla, Woodinville and other areas? The article cites only three wineries having difficulty competing with the deep discounting of of high end California wines. (L'Ecole No.41's Marty Clubb is quoted as saying that the Napa Valley does a better job marketing itself.) I know of a substantial number of Washington wineries doing well selling $50+ wines. The two highly successful wineries mentioned are Quilceda Creek and Cayuse, the top two cult wineries in the state.
In conclusion, Lettie Teague's article is a well-written, illuminating column, but one which sheds light on only part of Washington's diverse wine scene.
An Outstanding New Viognier from aMaurice
This wine is not to be missed. It comes from the aMaurice winery's Estate vineyard which adjoins the winery on the hill above Mill Creek Road out of Walla Walla. Planted in 2006 on alluvial soils - 12 inches of topsoil, 20 feet of sandy loam, 60 feet of gravel, then basalt aquifer. I am reviewing it here as only 48 cases were made and likely will be sold out by the end of August.
2009 aMaurice Cellars "Sparrow" Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Estate Vineyard ($33)
This wine exhibits a golden straw color and an exotic nose of pear, peach, lichee nuts, jasmine and orange blossoms, The stone fruit flavors are vibrant and resonate back and forth, with notes of stony minerals, anise and a twist of orange peel, followed by a squeeze of grapefruit juice and a hint of passion fruit on the lingering finish. Partially malolactic fermented, it steers a direct course that veers away from the tropical style of Viognier toward a firm cored North Rhone-like style (say, Condrieu). It is the finest Washington Viognier I've tasted so far. 19+/20 points.