More Wines from France, Italy and California

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 25 August 2019

During the past couple of weeks, we've been drinking some other wines in addition to those from Washington State. Here are my notes.

French Wines

2018 Châteaux Pradeaux Bandol Rosé ($36 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This is one of the deepest colored Bandol Rosés I've seen - deep copper. The aromas are intriguing: fraises de bois, blood orange, pomegranate, orange blossoms, herbes de Provence and spiced incense. The flavors are deep and vivid, marked by grape skins, orange tea and minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, fraise liqueur, recurring orange peel, dried pomegranate seeds and touches of lanolin and hazelnuts, followed by a lingering lightly spiced dry finish. Lynn gives this three out of three stars. 19/20 points.

Here are three more Cru Beaujolais from the exceptional 2017 vintage.

2017 La Tour du Fief Saint Amour ($24.99 - wine.com) - Purplish crimson colored, this emits seductive aromas of strawberries raspberries, currants, wild roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with vivid red fruits dancing on the palate, along with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries and fraise and cassis liqueurs , followed by a pleasingly juiced moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Piron & Lameloise Moulin-a-Vent ($23.99 - wine.com) - This one features a ruby-crimson color and lovely perfumed aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, violets and incense. The flavors are bright and vivacious, with mouth filling red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and schist minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, and framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a pleasing juicy slightly grainy soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Daniel Boulard Côte de Brouilly, "Cuvée Melanie" ($36 - The Thief) - This wine exhibits a deep purplish ruby color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, cerises, cassis, wild roses, violets and oriental incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with delicious red fruits that are endowed with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and granitic minerals. The pleasure continues on the back with pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs, kirsch and soft pencil lead, followed by a juicy yet chewy moderate tannin finish. As a vin de plaisir, this gets a plus. 18.5+/20 points.

Italian Wines

2016 G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso ($16.99 - Esquin) - The Langhe is the region surrounding Barolo and Barbaresco. The back label states this is "sourced from native vines." It shows a ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, red roses, tobacco, dried orange peel and incense. The flavors are bright and generous, with notes of red licorice, cola, black tea and Langhe hillside earth. The back palate is direct and chewy, with pressed berries, roasted hazelnuts and dried cherries, followed buy a juicy moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2016 M. Mareno Dolcetto d'Alba ($19.99 - Esquin) - This Piedmont wine shows a deep purplish-ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, purple lilac and violets. The flavors are mouth filling, brimming with vivid red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, Toblerone chocolate and Alban hills minerals. The chewy textured back picks up pressed berries, and cherry liqueur on the way to a juicy, satisfying finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Castellare de Castellino Chianti Classico ($25 - The Thief) - This is an amiable young Sangiovese. It shows a ruby-garnet color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, orange peel and incense. The medium bodied flavors mirror the aromatics with ample yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, chocolate, Italian roast and hillside minerals. The back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha, recurring orange peel, and pencil lead, followed by a sweet-dry tannin finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale ($23.99 - Safeway) - Ruby-garnet colored, this wine possesses rich aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, orange peel, rosemary and wood smoke. The flavors are generous and fleshy, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. The back pick up roasted fruits and nuts and semi-dried cherries and recurring orange peel, followed buy a dryish ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2014 Tascante Novello Mascalese "Ghia Nero," Sicilia - This was given to us by a friend. This vintage shows a ruby-garnet color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, dried orange peel, tobacco and wood smoke. The medium-full bodied flavors, as well, are distinctive, with semi dried fruits that are intermixed with licorice, roasted coffee beans and Sicilian mountain minerals. The back picks up roasted berries and nuts, recurring orange peel and charcoal, followed by a dry yet finely fruited finish. The 2016 vintage is available from wine.com for $24.99. 18.5/20 points.

Two Iconic California Wineries from the 'Eighties

Back in the mid 1980's, when I owned Esquin Wine Merchants, we witnessed the debut of many California wineries. Among these were Ferrari-Carano in Sonoma and Frog's Leap in the Napa Valley which became California Icons. Esquin was the first store in Seattle to carry their wines. I ran across these two producers at Safeway and I bought these two wines to see what they are up to today.

2018 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County ($14.99 - Safeway) - This Sauvignon Blanc is called Fume Blanc because it is made in an Upper Loire style like a Pouilly-Fume. This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, white peach, Crenshaw melon and grapefruit, with scents of apple blossoms, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, with white and yellow fruits that are accented by pear skin, peach stone and saline minerals. The back picks up melon rind and grapefruit peel on the way to a  crisp, resonant finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Frog's Leap Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($29.99 - Safeway) - This Zin features a ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, brambles, rosebuds, and spiced wood smoke. The flavors are rich and generous, yet focused, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and Napa dusty earth. The back reveals macerated berries, kirsch, charcoal and spices (nutmeg, clove) followed by a moderate (13.5%) alcohol and smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

We Love Grenache

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 23 August 2019

In the next issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line Monday, August 25) there will be six Grenache wines. Grenache is a variety that is increasing in popularity. Here's a bit more about that grape.

Grenache is believed to have originated in Aragon in the twelfth century.  The Spanish name is Garnacha. Over the centuries, the grape spread to Sardinia and Southern Italy which were under the rule of the Kingdom of Aragon, and then to the Langeuedoc-Roussillon, South Rhone and Provence regions of France where it was called Grenache.

Grenache is especially suited to Mediterranean climates and terroir, benefiting from the warm sun and rocky soils. The wines can be at the same time velvety and muscular. Transposed to America, the grape does well in the warm, terroir-driven parts of California and Washington. 

We especially like Grenache because it fits Northwest cuisine especially well. We think it makes a better companion to salmon or chicken than Pinot Noir., And yet it can be robust enough for beef and lamb. 

Here are some noteworthy producers of Washington Grenache.

The Walls - "Concrete Mama" - 2016 vintage reviewed December 2018.

Rotie Cellars - Southern Blend (70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah) - 2017 reviewed April 2019. "Little g" Grenache - 2016 reviewed October 2018.

Gramercy Cellars - "The Third Man" (75% Grenache, 13% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre) - 2016 reviewed May 2019.

Ocelli Cellars - This winery makes only Grenache, 100% varietal. - The 2014s to be reviewed in the September issue.

Isenhower Cellars - "Rara Avis" - 2016 reviewed April 2019.

Castillo de Feliciana - This Spanish varietal specialist calls it Garnacha. 

Below are some Spanish, Sardinian and French Grenache wines tasted recently.

2016 Las Rocas Garnacha, Calatayud ($12.99 - Safeway) - From a region in southwest Catalonia, this shows a ruby color and smoky aromas of black cherry, black currant, plum, black roses, tobacco, Spanish lavender and incense. The flavors are intense and direct, with black and blue fruits intermixed with licorice, coffee beans and minerals. The back picks up roasted berries and nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by a ripe, chewy dryish tannin finish. Excellent value. 18/20 points.

2016 Terroir Históric Priorat ($36 - The Thief) - Priorat is situated in Aragon in the district of Zaragosa. This Garnacha is deep ruby colored and emits intoxicating aromas of raspberries, black currants, mulberries, black roses, tobacco, Spanish lavender, tarragon and wood smoke. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous yet deep and taut red and black fruits that are infused with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, chicory coffee and fractured rock minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, fruit liqueurs and pulverized charcoal, followed by a chewy sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2016 Argiolas "Costera" Cannonau de Sardegna ($25 - The Thief) - The Sardinians claim the Garnacha grape (which they call Cannonau) originated on their island. But it is most likely from Aragon. This displays a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, black cherry, plum, black roses, mulberry, lavender and incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with notes of licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and stony minerals. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted hazelnuts and charcoal, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2016 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas, Vieilles Vignes, "La Louisiane" ($39.99 - wine.com) - From 80% Grenache planted in 1942, plus Mourvèdre and Cinsault, this boasts a semi opaque ruby-crimson color and intoxicating aromas of wild raspberries and strawberries, black currants, lavender, forest carpet, violets and white pepper. The flavors are simultaneously muscular and velvety, with layers of red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The back reveals macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, charcoal and lanolin ("legs"), followed by a lingering, grainy ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

See last week's Review Blog for South Rhone wines previously tasted. 

More 2017 Beaujolais and 2016 and 2015 Rhone Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 14 August 2019

This summer, we have been doing more exploring of French wines, in particular those from Beaujolais and the Rhone Valley. Here are our notes and scores.

Beaujolais Wines

Among our favorite wines for frequent enjoyment are those from Beaujolais, especially the Crus that come from the best communes. The 2017 vintage is exceptional, close in quality to 2015 (the 2016 vintage is good, but not stellar).

2017 Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-a-Vent ($19.99 - wine.com) - Distributed by Georges Duboeuf, this offers a ruby color and sultry aromas of strawberries, raspberries, black currants, roses, sweet tobacco, orange peel and incense. The flavors are generous, yet deep, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, framboise, toffee and burnt toast, followed by a smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 La Soeur Cadette Chénas ($26.99 - wine.com) - This is one of our favorites and I ordered more. It displays a deep purplish ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, sweet currants, wild roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of incense. The flavors are charming yet vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea, and granitic minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and toffee, followed by a soft tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chignard Fleurie, "Les Moriers" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Chignard is another of our favorite producers. This vintage shows a brick red color and attractive aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries and red currants, with scents of red roses, summer flowers and whiffs of wood smoke. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously supple and ample, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and limestone minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with sensations of pressed berries, fraise and framboise liqueurs and a bit of toast, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points. 

For more 2017 Beaujolais, see the Review Blog of 14 May.

South Rhone Valley Wines

The following wines come from Châteauneuf du Pape and the nearby communes of Vacqueyras and Gigondas. In this region, the Grenache grape is predominant, along with some Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah.

2016 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($39.99 - wine.com) - This wine displays a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, currant, mulberry, lavender, brambles, white pepper and oriental incense. On the palate, the flavors are thick and savory, marked by licorice, creme de cacao, French roast and cobblestone minerals. The saturation continues on the back with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and kidskin, followed by a rich, long spiced (nutmeg, clove) ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape, Vieilles Vignes, "Chante le Merle" ($74.99 - Esquin) - Deep ruby colored, this wine possesses an intoxicating nose of wild fruits - fraises de bois, framboise, cassis - with scents of crushed roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue, grilled meats, olive tapenade and smoldering oriental incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, yet velvety, infused with black licorice, extra dark cocoa, French roast and mas cobblestone minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, grilled nuts, kidskin and charcoal. The alcohol registers at 15.3% but is tempered by vivid fruit acids on the lengthy, grainy ripe tannin finish. As a superb example of old vine CdP, this gets 19.5/20 points.

2016 Clos de L'Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($49.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% each of Mourvède and Cinsault, this wine exhibits a semi opaque ruby color and an intoxicating nose of wild strawberries, raspberries, black currants, tobacco, brambles, lavender, violets, pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are fabulously rich and concentrated, with layers of red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and mas minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a lengthy ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2015 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape ($35 - Last Bottle) - Brick red colored, this emits rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, pomegranates, red currants, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, violets and incense. The flavors are lavish yet forceful, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and mas minerals. On the back, the wine is simultaneously velvety and muscular, with macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and dried pomegranate sees, followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Domaine de la Charbonnière Vacqueyras ($29.99 - Esquin) - This wine presents a ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberries, currants, mulberry, rosebuds, tobacco, brambles, lavender and incense. The flavors are ample, yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The wine thickens a bit on the back with pressed berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and charcoal, and then turns fleshy and savory on the satisfying finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Domaine de Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape ($38.99 - Esquin) - Brick red colored, this wine emits rich aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, currants, crushed roses, mulberry, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are thick an lavish, loaded with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and mas earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, mocha, framboise and cassis liqueurs and burnt charcoal followed by a warm (15% alcohol) but not hot lingering finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirial" ($34.99 - wine.com) - Semi opaque ruby colored, this possesses a rich, smoky nose of wild raspberries, black currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with thick, lavish dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and Montmirial granitic minerals. The intensity continues on the back with  sensations of macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, and touches of leather and burnt charcoal, followed by a lasting ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Les Pallières Gigondas, "Terrasse du Diable" ($36.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 90% Grenache with 5% each of Mourvèdre and Clairette, this offers a deep ruby color and an intoxicating nose of blackberry, black currant, plum, black roses, mulberry, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are robust yet lavish, bathed in dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cacao, French roast and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, grilled nuts and meats and pulverized charcoal, followed by a lengthy ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Most Châteauneuf du Pape wine is red, but a small amount of white wine is produced. Here is an outstanding example.

2016 Vignobles Brunel Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Les Cailloux" ($51.99 - wine.com) - Composed of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, this exhibits a brilliant gold color and rich aromas of pear, apricot, papaya, orange peel, pear tree blossoms, honeysuckle, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are full bodied for a white, with thick, juicy white and yellow fruits that are infused with apricot stone, pear and grape skins and distinct cobblestone minerals. The intensity continues on the back with poire William and Grand Marnier liqueurs, and touches of hazelnut and crème francie, followed by a lingering, persistently minerally finish. 19+/20 points.

Summer News from Walla Walla

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 08 August 2019

Here's some the recent developments in the Walla Walla Valley

Heat Wave in the Valley

This past week, and up to today, August 8, temperature highs have been around 100 degrees. When temperatures reach 95 or so (varying by grape variety) photosynthesis and grape maturing shuts down. Fortunately, temperatures will be moderating tomorrow and through next week into the eighties. This will enable the vines to mature the grapes normally and veraison (when grapes start to turn color) is expected to begin at the end of the month.

Jan Roskelley Retires from Tero Estates

On July 4 - Freedom Day - Jan Roskelley retired as events director at Tero Estates, a job she has held for twelve years. What she has done is truly special and puts an imprint on the winery. But the time came to hang it up. In July, she and Doug took the "Charbys," the Anartolian "pups" on a trip to Texas and Nebraska in their motorhome bus. Upon retuning, they have been clearing the basement winery B & B. Jan will always continue to amaze.

Jon Meuret Retires from Maison Bleue

July also saw another retirement. Jon and Amy Meuret moved to Overland Park, a suburb of Kansas City, on the Kansas side of the river. They had already sold the winery to the Pambrun winery and decided to make a change and move back to Kansas. An avid bicyclist, Jon is embarking on a new career in sports training. Our best to both. 

New in Walla Walla: Dillon Cellars

Dillon Cellars, located on Piper Avenue in the "Incubators" near the airport, opened recently in the space previously occupied by Walla Faces. The owner-winemaker is Marc Dillon Leahy, who has also taken over as winemaker at Maison Bleue (see above). I recently visited the winery and tasted the current releases with Marc. The wines - Syrah, Mourvèdre / Syrah and Merlot - were highly impressive, with scores of 19/20 points across the board. They will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

That's it for now! Next week, there will be reviews of more French wines from Burgundy and the Rhone Valley.