The Walla Walla Shindig / New & Revisited Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 August 2021

The Walla Walla Shindig

Last Saturday, August 28, we attended the First Annual Walla Walla Shindig, a dinner and auction event to benefit the Blue Mountain Community Foundation, Vital Wins which provides medical care to winery and vineyard workers, the Institute for Enology and Viticulture of the Walla Walla Community College, and the Wine Country Culinary Institute. It was a great event to support community programs. It raised $165,000 packages including trade (Alaska Airlines), winery tours and dinners, and more. Money was also raised by participants' donations.

The event was held at the Yellowhawk Resort, formerly Basel Cellars, on the Old Milton Highway. Dinner was preceded by bubbles from Yellowhawk, and the five course dinner was accompanied by wines from featured wineries. Three hundred guests, seated at 30 tables of 10 each, attended, spread out on the patio and lawn of the Resort. All this was executed with large platters of food for each course, a monumental task for such a large gathering. Kudos to Dan Thiesen, co-owner of Yellowhawk, for coordinating this event. 

Here are the wines poured for each course.

Course One: Yellowhawk White and Rosé Bubbles with Prawn and Melon salad and pickled chili. 

Course Two: 2018 Vital Chardonnay, French Creek and 2020 Pepper Bridge Sauvignon Blanc with Pazanella, local beans and crab.

Course Three: Summer Salmon and corn salad with 2019 Woodward Canyon Barbera, a combination that worked surprisingly well.

Course Four: Beef Tenderloin with 2018 Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley.

Dessert: Trio of Poached Peach, Lemon Curd and Chocolate Cream Tart with 2019 Long Shadows Poet's Leap Riesling. 

There will be a Second Annual Walla Walla Shindig in August, 2022 to look forward too.

New and Revisited Wines Tasted Recently

Over the past few weeks, we've been going through new wines and revisiting some we've had before.

2020 Bastide du Claux Luberon Rose, "Poudière" ($22 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Brilliant light copper-pink colored, this possessed enticing aromas of pink peach, tangerine, pomegranate, pink roses, orange blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are light and sprightly, with notes of grape skins and Mont Luberon minerals. On the back, the wine freshens up with peach and orange liqueurs and pomegranate seeds, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Chêne Bleu "Le Rosé," Vaucluse ($27 - The Thief) - Composed of 79% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault and 1% Rolle, this presents a brilliant copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, tangerine, red currant, blueberry and a bit of mango, with scents of pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are simultaneously delicate and precisely extracted, with notes of grape and currant skins and Vaucluse minerals. The charm continues on the back with gently pressed fruits, fraise liqueur and tangerine peel, followed by a lingering balanced finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Château Pradeaux Bandol Rosé ($37 - The Thief) - From near Toulon, this is a striking Rosé. It displays copper color and an exotic nose of fraises de bois, musk melon, blood orange, papaya, orange blossoms, lavender and spiced orange incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins and minerals. The back picks up fraise and Grand Marnier liqueurs and melon and orange rinds, followed by a lingering, viscous yet dry finish. "Delicious," says Lynn, three stars (highest rating). My score: 19/20 points.

2018 Domaine de la Grosse Pierre Chiroubles, "Claudius" ($27 - The Thief) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a deep purple-ruby color and attractive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, red roses, lilac and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously silky yet well delineated, with red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and hillside minerals. The appeal continues on the back with framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of toasted nuts and  mocha, followed by a smooth, ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.  

Wines revisited:

2017 Tapteil "Artist" Syrah, Yakima Valley, Spilya Vineyard ($40) - The Pearsons have sold the Tapteil Vineyard on Red Mountain to Avennia, but have kept the Spylia Vineyard on the west slope outside the Red Mountain AVA. This vintage shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors are ample yet deep with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate, French roast and earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, creme de cassis and blueberry preserves, followed by a lingering sweetish tannin finish. 19/20 points. Reviewed July, 2021.

2016 Louis Jadot Monthèlie, "Sous Roches" - We had this on International Pinot Noir Day (August 18). It's a real charmer. It shows a medium brick red color and perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, red currants, rose petals, cherry blossoms, orange peel, hillside bushes, sandalwood and sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied and alluring, with red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, pekoe tea and granitic minerals. The back picks up gently pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs orange peel and soft charcoal, followed by a satiny moderate tannin and acid finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chignard Fleurie "Les Moriers" - We bought this (about $25) when we were collecting Beaujolais from the great 2027 vintage. It shows a deep ruby color and aromas of fraises de bois, cerise, cassis, crushed roses, wildflowers, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied and charming, with velvety red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder and hillside minerals. The allure continues own the back with gently pressed fruits, creme de cassis and toffee, followed by a ripe, smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage "La Guiraude" - We purchased this a few years ago (about $56) and it's just coming around. It displays a semi opaque purple-ruby color and an intense nose of black currants, black cherries, black plums, black roses, dark sweet tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, pure Syrah, yet accessible, with lavish dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French press and stony minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, kirsch and creme de cassis. all followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

What is Sauvignon Blanc?

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 22 August 2021

Sauvignon Blanc is widely thought of being a Bordeaux grape variety. They usually come in the high shouldered Bordeaux style bottles and the name Sauvignon Blanc sounds Bordeaux-like. Actually, the grape originated further north, in the Loire Valley. It not a white mutant of Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather, Sauvignon Blanc, crossed with Cabernet Franc, is the parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. As Cabernet Sauvignon grew in popularity in Bordeaux, so did Sauvignon Blanc for white wines. 

Sauvignon Blancs can be categorized into two main styles: Loire and Bordeaux. The former in sloped bottles and the latter in high shouldered ones. The Bordeaux style ones are sometimes blended with Semillon, the other principal white grape of Bordeaux. It is in the Loire Valley that Sauvignon Blanc is produced as a stand alone varietal. In Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, it is known as Blanc Fumé and the ones from Pouilly are called Pouilly-Fumé.  Sauvignon Blanc was introduced to California in the late 19th Century where it made good but not highly impressive wines. But in in the 1970's Robert Mondavi visited the Loire Valley after a trip to Bordeaux and fell in love with the Sauvignon Blancs of Pouilly and Sancerre and he began making a wine from select clones which he called Pouilly-Fumé. The Mondavis no longer own the winery, but a Pouilly-Fumé is still made from grapes grown at the Oakville Estate vineyard.

There are seven Sauvignon Blancs in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines here is how they fall into these two categories, along with some others recently tasted.

Loire Style

2020 Woodward Canyon Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley ($29) - Like Robert Mondavi, Rick Small visited the Loire Valley and fell in love with Sauvignon Blancs. This version shows wonderful purity. Reviewed September. 19/20 points.

2020 Browne Family Vineyards Bitner Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($24) - Also bottled in a sloped bottle, this is a fine value when purchased for $16.99. Reviewed September. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County ($18) - Ferrari-Carano was an early adopter of Fumé Blanc after Mondavi. This one shows a brilliant straw color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear and orange blossoms, lemongrass and cut herbs. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. A super buy at $13.99. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Dominique Roger Sancerre, Domaine du Carrou Sancerre ($29.99 - wine.com) - From a respected grower in Bué, this offers a brilliant gold color with aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, pear tree blossoms, jasmine, lemongrass and flintstone. The flavors are almost laser-like, with a beam of bright fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and chalky minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lime zest, followed by a persistently mineraly finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Nicolas Gaudry Pouilly-Fumé ($22.99 - wine.com) - Today, Sancerre commands higher prices than for those from across the Loire River. This one shows a straw-gold color and slightly smoky aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, Crenshaw melon, pear blossoms, lemon verbena, jasmine and green incense. The flavors are vibrant and crisp yet viscous, with white and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and chalky minerals. On the back, the wine takes an elegant turn with pear and peach liqueurs and precisely balanced fruit acids. Great value compared to the more trendy Sancerre. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre ($39 - The Thief, Walla Walla and Esquin) - Reverdy is our go-to Sancerre. Very precise and finely fruited, it scores 19/20 points. Reviewed in the March 10 Blog posting below.

2020 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($16.99 - Safeway) - New Zealand is another country producing fine Sauvignon Blancs, particularly from the Marlborough region. This one features a light lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, lemon, guava, kiwi, quince, verbena, cut grass and green incense. The flavors are crisp and laser-like, with notes of grape and pear skins and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear liqueur, lemon zest and tropical juices followed by a dry, fruity finish. 18+/20 points.

Bordeaux Style

2020 Three Rivers Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, Red Mountain, Artz Vineyard ($38) - This 67%, 33% combination is modeled after a fine White Bordeaux such as a Graves Blanc. Reviewed September.  19/20 points. 

2020 Seven Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($20) - The grape composition is not specified, but it comes on Bordeaux-like. September issue. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Seven Hills Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($30) - From hand-picked hillside vineyards, this shows considerable complexity. Reviewed September, 19/20 points.

2020 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($12) - Crisply-styled, this is a super value at $7.99. 18+/20 points. 

2020 Novelty Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($20) - Another fine value when purchased for $15.99. 18+/20 points.

New Rhone & Burgundy Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 18 August 2021

Recently, we received a shipment of new vintages of Rhone Wines and Burgundies from wine.com, an on-line purveyor of a wide selection of wines from around the world. Here's what we got.

Tavel and Gigondas

Among our favorite wines are those of Tavel (Rosés) and Gigondas (Grenache based Reds).

2020 Domaine de la Modorée Tavel Rosé, "La Dame Rousse" ($36.99) - This is pricey for a Rosé, but worth it. It displays a brilliant copper-pink color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, pomegranate, red currants, blood orange, pink roses, orange blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are well extracted, yet deft, with delicious red and pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, orange peel and mas minerals. The resonance continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and, again, orange peel, followed by s lingering, lightly spiced dry yet finely fruited finish. 19/20 points. This Domaine also makes an excellent Cotes du Rhone Rose ($26.99). See posting of July 1 below. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Famille Perrin Gigondas, "La Gille" ($35.99) - From a respected South Rhone producer, this offers a deep ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of wild raspberry, cranberry, brambly currant, orange peel, crushed wild roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, garrigue, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous, yet focused red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine opens up with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory, juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Paul Jaboulet Gigondas, "Pierre Aiguille" ($23.99) - Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this displays a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, black currant, crushed black roses, tobacco, black olive and spiced incense, The flavors are generous (typical of Grenache) yet focused, with loads of up front fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and rocky minerals. The penetration continues on the back with pressed fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha, and charcoal, followed by a satisfying spiced, chewy finish. Delivers a lot of flavor for the price. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Lavau Gigondas ($27.99) - With 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this is a robust Gigondas. It exhibits a deep ruby-crimson color and an intense nose of blackberry, black currant and black plum, with scents of black roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs), olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are medium full-bodied, with ample, yet focused dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine intensifies with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, crème de cassis, mocha and charcoal, followed by a savory ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. Lavau also produces a bargain priced ($15.99) Tavel Rosé, reviewed below May 29. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirial" ($37.99) - This boasts a semi opaque ruby color and an intoxicating nose of raspberry, black currant, black plum, black roses, dark tobacco, garrigue, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous, yet focused, with layers of dark fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial terraces granitic minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, crème de cassis, toffee and burnt charcoal followed by a lingering, savory (cardamom, clove) ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

The Burgundies of Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret

In 2014, on our trip to France, we visited Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret in Vosne-Romanée. We saw the ancient cellar and tasted outstanding wines. The Domaine owns extensive holdings in the Côtes de Nuit and Côtes de Beaune. When I recently found the wines being offered by wine.com, I put in an order for them.

2018 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($31.99) - All Domaine produced, this presents a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, orange peel, crushed black roses, tobacco, sage and stick incense. The flavors are deliciously rich and supple, yet deep cored, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, pekoe tea and earth. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, mocha, framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and soft charcoal, all followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish, lifted by bright fruit acids. "Delicious," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, "Les Dames Hughettes" ($36.99) - The Hautes Côtes is situated above the Côtes de Nuits. This wine is a fine example of high elevation Pinot Noir. It shows a brick red color and smoky aromas of fraises de bois, cherry and red currant, with scents of crushed roses, bayberry, orange peel, sagebrush and sultry incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with medium bodied but substantial red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates and fleshens out, with pressed berries, roasted nuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, Les Narbantons ($69.99) - Savigny is situated between Aloxe-Corton and Beaune. This shows a deep brick red color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, black cherries, black currants, wild roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and smoldering incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with mouth filling red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and Savigny hillside minerals. On the back, the wine thickens with macerated fruits, grilled nuts, mocha, fraise and cerise liqueurs and crème de cassis, all followed by s lingering chewy yet satiny moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Pernand-Vergelesses, Premier Cru, Les Vergelesses ($79.99) - From a vineyard situated near Corton, this shows a brick red color and classic aromas of fraises de bois, old tree cherries, wild currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, sandalwood, orange peel, violets and oriental incense. On the palate, the flavors are deliciously velvety ("velours") yet vigorous, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, café au last and high elevation earth and granite. The wine builds up on the back with sensations of pressed fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, all followed seamlessly by a lingering, satiny tannin and balanced fruit acid finish. 19+/20 points.

Passing the Baton at Woodward Canyon

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 11 August 2021

Yesterday, I received an email with the following announcement from the Woodward Canyon Winery in Lowden, west of Walla Walla, quoted as follows:

Woodward Canyon is excited to announce the promotion of Jordan Dunn-Small from Director of DTC Sales to General Manager, Jordan is the daughter of founders Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small. She has been working at Woodward Canyon for seven years and has served as Director of DTC Sales since 2018.

Jordan grew up working at the family business during summer breaks and event weekends. Prior to officially joining the Woodward Canyon team in 2013, Jordan spent time working for the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, Tertulia Cellars and Long Shadows Vintners.

Jordan's brother, Sager Small, is Vineyard Manager for Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard and is also actively involved in sales and marketing for the winery. Rick and Darcey will move out of day-to-day operations but will continue to work on small projects, attend special events, and help mentor the next generation. They will also continue to serve on the Board of Directors.

"Having grown up in the wine industry and seeing ask of my parents' hard work, it's an honor to be entrusted with the legacy of our family business," said Jordan. "My brother and I look forward to continuing inner parents" footsteps while also bringing a new perspective to the business."

Woodward Canyon and the Small family have worked on strategic and succession planning over the last 10 years to ensure a smooth transition in family leadership for the winery that was founded in 1981 and is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year.

"Darcey and I could not be more pleased that Jordan and Sager both chose to return to Walla Walla and the family business," said Rick. "We are excited to watch them build on what we started forty years ago and take it to a new level."

I have known Rick since the winery was started in 1981. I remember him pouring his Riesling and Chardonnay (which were made while the newly planted vineyard was maturing). And his Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignons, with labels depicting Walla Walla Valley pioneers set the benchmark for Washington Cabernets. He was also instrumental in getting approval for the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area in 1984. 

Rick and Darcey were avid travelers and visited wineries and chateaux in France. In a visit to the Loire Valley, they became enchanted with the Sauvignon Blancs of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, which became the model for the Woodward Canyon Sauvignon Blanc. 

Their contributions to the Washington wine industry are immeasurable. As the second oldest winery in the Walla Walla Valley, Woodward Canyon has a great legacy which will be continued by the next generation.