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Isn't it about time we stopped reviewing French wines in this blog? Aren't there plenty of American wines to write about in this publication? Do we need to drink so much Burgundy, Mâconnais, Bordeaux and so on? And the French think their wines are so great they put "Grand Vin" on their labels. Zut alors! Merdre! C'est tout!

Poisson d'Avril! That's what the French call April Fool. This is a fishy joke.

So here are some more new French wines we've tasted recently.

N.V. Cattin Brut Crémant d'Alsace Rosé ($18.99 - Esquin, Seattle) - This sparkling wine displays a light copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and lovely aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, pink roses, pink lilac and orange peel. The flavors are vibrant and mouth filling, with pink fruits, grape skins, cherry stones and Vosges minerals. The back is enlivened by fraise and cerise liqueurs and CO2, followed by a bracing finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny ($19 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Cheverny is situated downriver from Pouilly-sur-Loire. This wine is 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Chardonnay. It shows a medium lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of crisp apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, white lilac and wet stone. The flavors are brisk yet accessible, with white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp dry yet fruited finish. This calls for shellfish. 18+/20 points.

2020 Bernard Fouquet Vouvray, "Cuvée de Silex" ($24.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this possesses floral aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, melon, citrus, pear blossoms, wisteria and lightly spiced white incense. The flavors are deliciously ripe and mouth filling, with vivid white and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and silicate minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and line zest, counterpointed a touch of crème fraiche on the finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Domaine de la Denante Bourgogne Chardonnay ($16.99 - Esquin) - From a grower in Davayé, Damien Martin, this is a super value. It offers a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors are bright and true to variety, with notes of grape and pear skins and argilo-limestone minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pêche liqueur and grapefruit peel, followed by a pleasingly juicy, persistently minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Raphael Sallet Mâcon-Uchizy, "Les Maranches" ($12.99 - wine.com) - Uchizy is one of the villages that can hyphenate with Mâcon. Brilliant gold colored, it possesses attractive aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and yellow incense. The flavors are pleasing, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and Mâconnais minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and a twist of lemon zest on the way to a nicely fruited finish. Super value. 18/20 points.

2019 Domaine William Fevre Chablis ($39 - The Thief) - From estate vineyards, this offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and distinctive aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, citrus, hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors are simultaneously crisp and viscous, with notes of pear skin, peach stone and calcareous minerals. On the back, the wine sharpens up with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and lemon zest, counterpointed by crème fraiche on the steely finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes Côte de Brouilly ($25.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais d'isolats a deep ruby color and perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, rose petals, purple lilac, sweet tobacco and sweet incense. The flavors are rich and mouth encompassing with red fruits that are replete with licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside minerals. The saturation continues on the back with pressed fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of tart cherries and soft charcoal followed by a lip smacking finish. Almost as good as the Thivin Côte de Brouilly for much less money. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Toilet-Beaut Chorey-les-Beaune ($47 - The Thief) - Tollot-Beaut is a respected Domaine. This wine offers a deep brick red color and rich aromas of fraises de bois, cherry, cassis, crushed red roses, sweet pea flowers, orange peel and whiffs of sweet incense. The pure Pinot Noir flavors are simultaneously bold and supple, with layers of red fruits that are interwoven with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, toasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a lavish yet taut sweetish tannin finish. When you look at a $50 Oregon Pinot, this really stands out. 19/.20 points.

2019 Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhone, Reserve ($10.99 - Safeway) - Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this shows a purplish ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberries, currants, plums, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are direct, with plenty of red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and scorched earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with raspberry and cassis liqueurs and burnt charcoal, followed by a juicy, spiced moderate tannin finish. A steal at $10.99. 18/20 points.

2018 Lavau Gigondas ($26.99 - wine.com) - We have had previous vintages from Lavau, and we like this one, too. A combination of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, it shows a deep purplish-ruby color and intense aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, garrigue, olive and sweet spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with generous yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with fraise and cassis liqueurs and burnt charcoal, followed by a war, spiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

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Now that the April issue of the Review of Washington Wines is on line, work on the May issue is already under way. On April 5, we will be flying to Seattle and then after a few days, flying on to Kansas City for art museum visits in KC and Bentonville, Arkansas (Crystal Bridges), returning to Walla Walla on April 15. So the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines will need to be written up and sent to our website manager before we leave. There will be no Blogs while we are travelling.

We have already visited the Alton and Gramercy wineries in Walla Walla and have appointments coming up at Mark Ryan and Deux Soldats ("Two Soldiers," new in Walla Walla). Other wineries to be included in the June issue are Prospice, Isenhower, Tranche, Brook & Bull and Saviah. More wineries include Côtes de Ciel (the first Washington Arneis white I've ever tasted), Convergence Zone and Browne Family Vineyards. There will be a bevy of new 2021 Rosés. And, believe it or not, some 2020 reds which seem to be more accessible than the more structured 2019's. The 2020's from Alton and Brook & Bull are particularly impressive. The May issue will be going on line on April 25.

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The Alliance of Women in Washington Wines

A couple of weeks ago, I saw on Facebook that Fiona Mack (SMAK Wines) was asking for donations to the Alliance of Women in Washington Wines in celebration of her birthday, so I made a donation. It's a worthy organization. Here's why. 

The Mission Statement is: "The Alliance of Women in Washington Wines is a safe place for your voice to be heard without judgment, and you can safely ask for advice on how to positively change your working environment or career trajectory." The goals are to Inspire, Connect and Advance. 

The Alliance provides forums for women in the wine industry, mentorship and scholarships for enology and viticulture education. For more information, go to www.awwawine.org.

The Alliance's officers are: Tiffany Britton (Brainstorm Cellars), President, K D. Organ (Coventry Vale), Vice President, Maureen Allen Johnson (Goose Ridge), Treasurer and Rebecca Alberts (Fidelitas), Secretary.

This organization deserves the support of all in the wine industry.

More New French Wines

There are some more French wines tasted recently. See last week's Blog posting for others.

N. V. Prosper Maufoux Crémant de Bourgogne Brut ($19.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay, this sparking wine offers brilliant gold color, streaming bubbles and aromas of pear-apple, peach grapefruit, a hint of mango, apple blossoms, white flowers and wet stone. The flavors are fresh and lively, accented by grape skins, peach stones a minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs and touches of brioche and crème fraiche, followed by a CO2 enlivened Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

N. V. Prosper Maufoux Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé ($19.99 - wine.com) - This Rosé displays a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of strawberry, red currant, pink cherry and blood orange with scents of cherry and orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are bright and lively, with red fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and granitic minerals. The back is enlivened by fraise and cassis liqueurs, orange peel and CO2 on the way to a bracing, finely fruited Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Domaine André Bonhomme Mâcon Villages, Vieilles Vignes ($19.99 - wine.com) - From a grower in Viré, this offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and lemon verbena. The flavors are vigorous (old vines) with pure Chardonnay flavors that are accented by grape and pear skins and stony minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of crème fraiche, hazelnut and grapefruit, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Louis Jadot Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc, Premier Cru, Clos des Guettes ($54.99 - wine.com) - Most Savigny-les-Beaune is red, but a small amount of white wine is produced. This one shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and lovely aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, lemon custard, pear tree blossoms, wisteria and gunflint. The flavors are pure Chardonnay, almost laser-like, with steely fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The penetration continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon custard and almonds, followed by a lingering, persistently minerally finish. 19+/20 points. 

2019 Domaine Servin Chablis, "Les Fargues" ($29.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This comes from a vineyard sandwiched between Premier Crus Vosgros and Montmains. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and striking aromas of green apple, white peach, lime, apple blossoms, jasmine and flintstone. The flavors are crisp and dynamic, with white and green fruits that are accented by grape and apple skins and oyster shell. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of Calvados and pêche liqueurs and lime zest, followed by a persistently minneraly finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Justin Girardin Bourgogne Rouge ($24.99 - Esquin) - From a grower in Santenay, this shows a purplish color, typical of a young Pinot Noir, and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, red roses, bayberry, orange peel and whiffs of baking spices. The flavors are medium bodied, yet substantial and mouth filling, with red fruits that ate intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and earth. The slightly chewy textured back picks up red fruit liqueurs and recurring orange peel on the way to a ripe, pleasing moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Clos Ste. Magdelaine Cassis Blanc ($43.99 - wine.com) - Cassis is situated just east of Marseille and this is produced from Ugni Blanc, Claudette, Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc. It shows a brilliant gold color and intense, floral aromas of pear, peach, papaya, citrus, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, butternut and yellow incense. The flavors are simultaneously viscous and laser-like, with vivid yellow and white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and Provençal minerals. The back reveals poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and crème fraiche followed by a lingering precise fruit acid finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Famille Perrin Gigondas, "La Gille" ($34.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this emits rich aromas of raspberry, black currant, black plum, black roses, tobacco, garrigue, cracked pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are generous and mouth filling, with copious red and black fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts and crème de cassis, followed by an, again, peppery finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Domaine Nôtre Dame des Pallières Gigondas, "Bois des Mourres" ($32.99 - Esquin) - This combination of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre offers a deep ruby color and seductivre aromas of raspberry, black currant, plum, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are ample and mouth filling, with red and black fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine warms up with roasted berries and nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and burnt charcoal followed by a heady (16% alcohol) yet even tempered spice and pepper dusted finish. 18.5/20 points.

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Three Walla Walla Valley Vineyards Sold

The big wine industry news the past few weeks has been the sale of three choice vineyards in the South Walla Walla Valley. Here they are.

Windrow Vineyards - This property is located west of Milton-Freewater and was part of the original Seven Hills Vineyard first planted in 1981 by Dr. Herb Hendricks and Dr. James McClellan. The sale was facilitated by Michele Rennie's blue and vine group brokered by EXP Realty. The vineyard was part of the Tero Estates winery adjacent to the vineyard, for which Doug Roskelley was winemaker until he passed away in 2021 after which the property was put up for sale. The buyer has not yet been disclosed except to say that "The new owner grew up in Milton-Freewater and is very excited to be coming home. She plans to honor the legacy while taking the property to the next level."

Tertulia Cellars - This property was acquired on February 12 by Patterson Cellars in Woodinville. The winery closed in December, largely due to COVID and was put up for sale. The sale includes the Whistling Hill Vineyard adjacent to the Winery on Whitely Road on Walla Walla's Southside. The winery will be rebranded and Patterson Cellars, Walla Walla and operations will be conducted in both Woodinville and Walla Walla. 

Waliser Vineyard - On March 6, it was announced that the Waliser Vineyard in the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater has been sold to the Figgins Family Properties which owns Leonetti Cellar. The nine acre vineyard is adjacent to the Holy Roller Vineyard which is owned by the Figgins. This expands the Figgins presence in The Rocks. The Waliser Vineyard was planted by Tom Waliser in a site that was formerly an orchard. The terms on the sale were not disclosed. Tom Waliser stated, "I'm honored to see the Figgins family become its new steward."

More New French Wines

Here are some more of our finds in French wines. See last week's blog for previous ones.

N. V. Domaine Allimant-Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Brut ($21.99 - Esquin) - Blended from Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris, this sparkling wine offers a brilliant lemon-gold color, frothy bubbles and aromas of pear, peach, honeydew melon, apple blossoms, wildflowers, jasmine and brioche. The flavors are crisp and precise, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and slaty minerals. The back picks up poire William liqueur, melon rind and a bit of spice (from the Riesling) on the CO2 enlivened finish. 18.5/20 points.

N. V. Domaine Allimant-Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé ($23.99 - Esquin) - Made exclusively from Pinot Noir, this shows a brilliant copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and white flowers. The flavors are pleasingly juicy and well delineated, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Vosges minerals. The back picks up fraise and kirsch liqueurs and orange peel, all enlivened by the CO2 on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

Prince de Didonne Pineau de Charentes ($38 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This is produced from the same grapes as for Cognac - Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche - fermented with residual sugar and fortified to 17% alcohol. It displays an amber color and an intriguing nose of ripe pear, yellow peach, dried orange peel and a hint of butternut. The flavors are strikingly vigorous, with notes of pear skin, orange peel and Charentais coastal minerals, followed by a lingering sweetish finish that is lifted by bracing fruit acids,. Drink as an aperitif or dessert wine. 19/20 points.

2020 Domaine Talmard Mâcon Chardonnay ($17.99 - Esquin) - This comes from the village of Chardonnay, where the grape takes its name. It shows a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of pear-apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and a hint of butternut. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with bright fruits that are accented by pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a nicely fruited finish. "Eighteen dollars, oh my God!" says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Cheveau Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly, "Sur le Mont" ($24.99 - wine.com) - From a vineyard below the Rock of Solutré, this offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach and citrus with scents of pear blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of butternut. The flavors show considerable Chardonnay character, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and Solutré minerals. On the back, the wine takes on a viscous texture, along with poire and pêche liqueurs, counterpointed by bright fruit acids on the finish. "A lot of flavor, I love Chardonnay." says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Château Thivin Brouilly "Reverdon" ($28.99 - wine.com) - From a highly regarded producer, the Famille Geoffray, this Cru Beaujolais displays purplish ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, crushed roses, tobacco, purple lilac and wafts of sweet incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with copious red and blue fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola, black tea and earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a deliciously juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly ($32.99 - wine.com) - This comes from the slope high above Brouilly. It displays a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of wild raspberries, black currants, blood orange, black roses, sweet pea flowers, violeta and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously supple yet full and mouth filling, with copious red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and granitic minerals. The saturation continues on the back with pressed fruits, sweet nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Louis Jadot Monthelie, "Sous Roche," Domaine Gagey ($46.99 - wine.com) - Monthelie is situated between Volnay and Meursault. This wine exhibits a brick red color and seductive aromas of strawberry, brambly currant, blood orange, crushed roses, orange blossoms, sweet pea flowers, and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are deliciously supple yet deep and mouth encompassing, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and calcareous minerals. The wine fills out on the back with pressed berries, fraise, cassis and orange liqueurs, all followed by a lingering, ripe yet sturdy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Maranges Premier Cru, Clos de la Bouterie ($49.99 - wine.com) - Maranges is located at the south end of the Côte d'Or. This exhibits a deep brick red color and lovely aromas of wild strawberries, cherries, black currants, wild roses, purple lilac, sweet tobacco and sweet incense. The flavors are alluring, with ripe, supple red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, black tea and calcareous minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with macerated berries, roasted pecans, fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, all followed by a lingering balanced acid and tannin finish. 19/20 points.

 

 

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As off this writing, I am working on the April issue of the Review of Washington Wines. Spring is the time when wineries release new vintages, so there will be a lot of new wines. Also, I have reached out to wineries around the state to have wines shipped to me in Walla Walla. In this issue will be new wines from Amavi Cellars, Kontos Cellars Vital Wines, Three Rivers and l'Ecole no 41. From around the state there will be reviews of Cairdeas in Lake Chelan, Longship Cellars in Richland, Savage Grace in the Columbia Gorge and Freehand Cellars in Wapato. There will be several more new 2021 Rosés as well. 

The April issue will include over 30 new 2019 reds. From my impressions, that vintage looks to be an age-worthy one. The wines appear to be more structured than, say, the 2018's with firm yet ripe tannins and balanced acidity. See my blog posting of 30 September, "The 2018 and 2019 Vintages Compared," for more about this.

  1. The GG Antinori Dinner & More French Wines
  2. New 2019 Red and White Burgundies
  3. What's Ahead for the Institute for Enology and Viticulture?
  4. Walla Walla Wine News & More Burgundies