Holiday Barrel Weekend 2019 in Walla Walla

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 10 December 2019

Last weekend, December 6-8, was Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend in the Walla Walla Valley. It was the weekend when winery tasting rooms had holiday decorations and lights, and most had upcoming releases to taste. Here's what we did.

On Friday morning, December 6, I drove over to Lowden to L'Ecole No. 41 which had a barrel sample of the 2018 Ferguson Vineyard Red and a vertical of Merlots. Then, at Woodward Canyon, there was the 2018 Artist's Series Cabernet. Then back to Reininger for the 2018 Seven Hills Vineyard Carmenère, plus fine new releases to be reviewed in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines. That evening, we went to the Tero Estates and Waters Annual Holiday Dinner at the Marcus Whitman Hotel were a superb five course dinner was served.

On Saturday morning, I drove out to Mill Creek Road to taste the 2018 barrel samples at Walla Walla Vintners and Aluvé. In the afternoon, we stopped by Tero Estates to taste the 2018 Charbono and 2016 Petit Sirah (to be in the January issue0 and hear the Dave Paul 5 duo play their guitars and sing. Then to Reynvaan for the 2014 MTR Productions Syrah, to be reviewed in the January issue. 

The next morning, we stopped by Forgeron and Seven Hills to taste more 2018's. Then we went out on Heritage Road to Smoky Rose Cellars where Josh and Jodi Rosenowski hosted a delicious Holiday Brunch, including a preview of their 2018 sparkling wine and 2018 Grenache.

Barrel Tasting the 2018's

All the winemakers I talked with were very happy with the way the 2018's are turning out. They are gorgeous wines, with lovely aromatics and perfumes and finely fruited flavors. Here are my notes on the wines I tasted.

2018 L'Ecole No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard Estate Red Wine - To be released in 2021, this blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cab Franc and 5% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of blackberries, cherries, plums, cassis, crushed roses and oriental incense. The flavors are thickened generous, marked by basaltic minerals and a long, polished finish. Will be outstanding. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Woodward Canyon Artist's Series Cabernet Sauvignon - Composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Syrah and 2% Cab Franc, this is destined to become a classic. Deep ruby colored, with lovely, perfumed aromas, and bold yet rich and velvety flavors and a long, complex finish. Potential 19.5/20 points.

2018 Reininger Carmenère, Seven Hills Vineyard - This is going to be a gorgeous Carmenère. Ruby-crimson colored, it possesses enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, crushed roses and violets. The flavors are deep and intense, accompanied by fine grained tannins and a long, peppery (a trait of Carmenère) finish. Possible 19.5/20 points.

2018 Walla Walla Vintners Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Cut Bank Vineyard - This Clone 6 Cabernet shows a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of dark fruits, crushed roses, violets and incense. The layers of dark fruits show great varietal purity and develop much complexity on the back, followed by a long finish. Potential 19.5/20 points.

2018 Aluvé Estate Sangiovese, Menozzi Vineyard - Composed of 80% Sangio with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a ruby-garnet color and a rich, smoky nose of red fruits, red roses and incense. The medium bodied yet substantial flavors are filled with delicious red fruits and followed by a long dryish tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Aluvé Estate "Primo Volo" Estate Red Wine, Menozzi Vineyard - This BDX style blend shows a deep ruby color and smoky aromas of blackberry, cherry and plum with scents of crushed roses, tobacco and wood smoke. The flavors are fleshy and deep cored with layers of dark fruits, and builds up on the back with a long sweet-dry tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Aluvé Estate Red Wine, Menozzi Vineyard - Composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 12% Merlot, this shows a ruby-crimson color and lovely aromas of wild fruits, crushed roses, tobacco, incense. The flavors are bold, almost massive with layers of dark fruits, espresso and earth and then marches on into a long sweet-dry tannin finish. Potential 19.5/20 points.

2018 Tero Estates Charbono, Windrow Vineyards - Deep ruby colored, this possesses sultry aromas, scented by orange peel, and a hint of musk and dark, distinctive layered red and black flavors that are infused with licorice, cola and damp earth, followed by a long, again sultry nutted finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Waters Cabernet Franc - Purplish ruby colored, this possesses smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, roses, spice and herbs. The flavors are thick and generous, yet focused, with layers of black and blue fruits, followed by roasted berries and nuts and graphite on the long grainy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Waters Syrah - Deep purplish ruby colored, this shows intense aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, lavender, violets and incense. The flavors are full throttle, with loads of dark fruits and silty earth. The back picks up roasted berries and nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by ripe tannins. Will be a highly enjoyable wine. 19+/20 points.

2018 Balboa Carmenère, Summit View Vineyard - Ruby-crimson colored, this shows a perfumed nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, cassis, roses and pepper (a trait of Carmenère). The flavors are lavish, yet deep and focused, with layers of dark fruits and basaltic minerals. The finish is velvety yet vigorous and long. 19+/20 points.

2018 Forgeron Cellars Mourvèdre - This displays a brick red color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, roses, garrigue and spiced incense, The flavors are typical of the variety, with notes of licorice, cocoa and scorched earth. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a long, spicy, warm finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Seven Hills Pentad - To be released in November 2020, this five BDX varieties blend shows a deep ruby-crimson color and lovely aromas of wild fruits, sweet roses, sweet tobacco, violets and incense. The flavors are supple and alluring yet deep cored and structured. The back reveals pressed berries, roasted nuts and integrated oak (50% new French), followed by an ultra long ripe tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.

More New Wines Recently Tasted

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 02 December 2019

Over the past few weeks, we have tasted several impressive wines from Europe and Washington. Some were recently acquired French and Italian wines. Others were Washington wines being tasted for the January issue of the Review of Washington Wines. Here are our reviews and scores. 

French Wines

2017 Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas "Tradition" ($21.99 - wine.com) - We have liked Michel and Sylvain Tete's 2017 Saint-Amour (see Review blog of 25 August) so we tried this one, too. It displays a brick red color and rich aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, mulberry, lilac and whiffs of wood smoke. The medium bodied flavors are pleasing and generous yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa, black tea and schist minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, toasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a ripe, satisfying finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Château Fortia Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($44.99 - Esquin) - Most CdP wines are red, so this is something of a rarity. This one shows a brilliant gold color and seductive aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, star fruit, papaya, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and white incense. The flavors are bold, simultaneously crisp and tropical, with vivid white fruits that are accented by mas minerals. The back picks up poire and peach liqueurs on the way to a persistently minerally finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas, "Les Deux Juliette" - ($24.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this offers a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, plum and currant and scents of crushed roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue, orange peel and spiced incense. The flavors are generous and mouth filling, yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and Dentelles de Montmirail minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis, recurring orange peel and charcoal, followed by a peppery ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2016 Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf du Pape, "Cuvée Anoyme" ($39 - Last Bottle) - Last Bottle is a internet retailer of end of vintage closeouts. This one, from a stellar vintage shows a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild blackberries, blueberries, plums, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, orange peel and spiced incense. The flavors are velvety yet bold and forceful, marked by licorice, cocoa, French roast and cobblestone minerals. The penetration continues on the back with pressed fruits, creme de cassis, recurring orange peel and charcoal prefacing the long finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf du Pape ($49.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre from 40 to 70 year-old vines, this is a stellar CdP. It exhibits a deep purplish ruby color and an intense nose of blackberries, blueberries, black currants, crushed black roses, tobacco, lavender and oriental incense. The flavors are lavish, yet deep cored, intermixed with licorice, dark chocolate, and minerals. On the back, the wine powers on into a lush, yet firm and lasting finish. 19+/20 points.

Italian Wines

2015 Villadoria Nebbiolo Langhe, "Bricco Magno" ($16.98 - Super 1) - The Langhe is the area southeast of Alba and includes the Barolo and Barbaresco districts. Ruby-garnet colored, it emits typical Nebbiolo aromas of semi dried fruits - raspberries, cherries, orange peel - and scents of dried roses, mulberry, tobacco and whiffs of tar and wood smoke. The medium bodied flavors are direct, with notes of licorice, cocoa, pekoe tea and earth. The back picks up recurring dried cherries and orange peel, followed by a sweet-dry finish. 18/20 points.

2014 Rivetti Massimo Barbaresco, "Froi" ($29 - Last Bottle) - This was a super deal from Last Bottle (regular retail - $55). This wine steers a mid course between the modern and traditional styles of Nebbiolo. It displays a ruby-garnet color and smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, red currant, dried roses, tobacco leaf, a hint of road tar (a trait of Nebbiolo), dried orange peel and oriental incense. The flavors are expansive yet deep and focuses, with lavish sweet-dry fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. The back picks up roasted berries, grilled hazelnuts and graphite, followed by a lingering dryish tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Mazzei Chianti Classico Riserva, "Ser Lapo" ($31.99) - This is a great buy in a Riserva. Deep ruby-garnet colored, it possesses rich aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, dried roses, tobacco, orange peel and wood smoke. The flavors are deep and complex, with notes of licorice, chocolate, Italian roast and Castellina hillside minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of roasted berries and almonds, kirsch, recurring orange peel and graphite, followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Washington Wines

2018 Cougar Crest Viognier, Walla Walla Valley ($23) - This wine steers a mid course between the crisp and tropical styles of Viognier. It possesses floral aromas and a nicely fruited finish. Purchased for $17.99. A full review to be in the January issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Tenet Wines "The Pundit" Syrah, Columbia Valley ($25) - This is a terrific buy in Washington Syrah. Deep purplish ruby colored, it possesses rich aromas and loads of black and blue fruits, followed by a smooth ripe tannin finish, Shows varietal purity throughout. Purchased for $17.99. Full review to be in the January issue. 18.5/20 points.

Last weekend, we drove over to Red Mountain and Prosser to get up to date in the Yakima Valley. Here are a couple of impressive whites. Full reviews to be in the January issue.

2018 Frichette Semillon, Red Mountain, Artz Vineyard ($30) - This is an outstanding rendition of an under appreciated white variety. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, melon, grapefruit and white flowers and resonant flavors and a zingy nicely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Fortuity Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Yakima Valley ($24) - This was tasted at the Walter Clore Center (a report to be in in January). It is a nice Sancerre-like Sauvignon Blanc with fresh, floral aromas, crisp flavors, saline minerality and a resonant finish. 18.5/20 points.

Mark Anderson Remembered & What We're Having for Thanksgiving

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 24 November 2019

Walla Walla Pays Tribute to Mark Anderson

On Saturday, November 23, many friends gathered at the Cordiner Hall Auditorium for a Celebration of Mark Anderson's life. The remembrance was introduced by Whitman College President Kathleen Murray who recounted Mark's many achievements, including his service as Overseer of Whitman. Tributes were delivered by Paul Anderson, brother and friend, Byron Peterson who worked at the Walla Walla Foundry, Dylan Farnum, President of Walla Walla Foundry, Squire Broel, artist and friend, Ted Cox, Walla Walla Piano Group member and friend, and Ian Boyden, artist and friend. His belief was that just about anything could be done he would be determined to get it done. An example was how he took out the back wall at the Foundry Vineyards tasting room and put in an art gallery in the space that was formerly the barrel room. There were countless other things that Mark got done, He will be remembered for that.

What We're Having for Thanksgiving

On Thursday, November 28, Lynn and I will be joining Ted and Joyce Cox, daughter Amy and Ted's sister, Mel and brother in law Tad from Fresno for Thanksgiving. We always have Walla Walla Valley wines for this distinctly American tradition. We have nothing against foreign wines, but firmly believe Thanksgiving should be celebrated with our own wines. Here's what we're having. 

Treveri Blanc de Blancs, Columbia Valley - We will have this sparkling 100% Chardonnay wine with the before dinner appetizers. It is a fun wine and the crispness makes it a counterpoint to the upcoming dinner.

2015 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Queen's Road" White Wine, Walla Walla Valley - This aromatic Roussanne, Viognier combination will go nicely with the white meat, better than Chardonnay.

2015 Cayuse Vineyards "God only Knows" Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, Armada Vineyard - A medium bodied red with a lot of flavor is a fine fit with turkey. The GOK will fill the bill.

2014 Rôtie Cellars "Northern Blend" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley - We believe Syrah pairs better with turkey and the aromatic accompaniments better than the more austere, tannic Cabernet Sauvignons. This Syrah, co-fermented with 5% Viognier will go well with the savory dinner fixings. 

2010 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Stonessence" Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - From the "Rocks," this will have just the right cobblestone and silt funkiness to go with the dinner. 

Treveri Brut Syrah, Columbia Valley - This sparkling red will make a rich, effervescent accompaniment to dessert. The dryness of a Brut counterpoints sweetness. 

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Mark Anderson's Passing a Loss for Walla Walla

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 19 November 2019

The death of Mark Anderson on Wednesday, November 13 at age 65 is a great loss for the Walla Walla Valley community. His contributions have been immeasurable. He was a a native of Walla Walla and graduated from Walla Walla High School in 1973 and from Whitman College in 1977. He married his wife, Patty in 1976. In 1980, the couple started the Walla Walla Foundry which cast sculptures for famed artists such as Manuel Neri, Maya Lin and Jim Dine (whose story-high Pinocchio, cast for Boras, Sweden wowed us). He and Patty also founded the Foundry Vineyards winery in 2003 to bring together wine and art at the tasting room and gallery on Abadie Street, off 13th Avenue.

Mark's many accomplishments include anchoring Art Walla which brought public art to the community, managing the Gesa Power House Theater, participating in the Walla Walla Piano Group, and serving as an Overseer of Whitman College. He was always ready to help and his friendliness and generosity were incomparable.

Mark's legacy will live on through his family. His wife, Patty, is a mover and shaker in the community. Daughter Lisa Anderson is an events manager at Foundry Vineyards. She did a superb job in preparing the gallery for the celebration of my 50 years in the wine industry. Son Jay is the artistic director of Foundry Vineyards and winemaker. The Foundry Vineyards 2016 red wines will be reviewed in the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines. Last spring, the winery released Jay's pet project, the "Pet Nats," pétillant naturel sparkling wines which sold out quickly.

A Celebration of Mark's life will be held on Saturday, November 23 at 4 p.m. at Cordiner Hall at Whitman, followed by a reception at the Reid Center Ballroom. A report on this event will be in next week's Review Blog.