- Written by Rand Sealey
Are Wine Competition Wine Medals Worth Anything?
Recently, I ran across an item on the internet about an article by Robert T. Hodgson in the Journal of Wine Economics, entitled "An Analysis of the Concordance Among 13 U.S. Wine Competitions." The Abstract reads:
"An analysis of over 4000 wines entered in 13 U.S. wine competitions shows little concordance among the venues in awarding Gold medals. Of the 2,440 wines entered in three competitions, 47 percent received Gold medals, but 84 percent of these same wines also received no award in another competition. Thus, many wines that are viewed as extraordinarily good at some competitions are viewed as below average at others. An analysis of the number of Gold medals received in multiple competitions indicates that the probability of winning a Gold medal at one competition is stochastically independent of the probability of receiving a Gold at another competition, indicating that winning a Gold medal is greatly influenced by chance alone."
This confirms my long-held belief that wine competition medals have little, if any, value except for advertising purposes. Years ago, winemakers would tell me that wine competitions were always "a crap shoot." A winery might get a Gold medal at one competition and no medals at another. It has been my experience as a judge at several competitions that the evaluation process is highly subjective. One time, I was at a table with Tom Stockley who liked a certain late harvest Riesling (which I found cloying) so much he wanted to give it a Gold. I dissented, but the table still ended up voting to give it a Gold. This is nothing at all like the kind of professional, objective evaluation that the U.C. Davis 20 point system entails (see my blog of 4 September, 2009). When you have a panel of judges making decisions based upon their own subjective impressions, the chance of a particular wine getting a Gold medal is almost completely random. Awarding Gold medals for wines might as well be based on an alignment of celestial objects.
Wine Crush In Full Swing at Robison Ranch Cellars
Yesterday, I received this email from Brad Riordan, the winemaker: "Well the proverbial you know what is about to hit the fan. I expect starting Tuesday we will get 2-3000# of fruit every morning thru Friday. Numbers are reaching the go point and Merlot, Sangio will start....I will post daily if not more often. BTW the Viognier is doing well."
Wine Tip of the Week
A few weeks ago, we had lunch with some out of town guests at T. Maccarone's in Walla Walla. On the wine list, I found Va Piano's Bruno's Blend V, so I ordered a bottle of it. It made a fine accompaniment to pasta and my Mac Burger. It's currently on sale at Esquin for $19 (regular $22).
N/V Va Piano Bruno's Blend V, Columbia Valley ($19-22)
This blend of 67% Syrah, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot offers a rich raspberry and plum nose with scents of brambles. The flavors are generous and spicy with a suave texture that spreads out in the back along with licorice and cola tones and extends into a ripe tannin finish.18/20 points.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Tips on Washing Stemware
A few days ago, I got an email from a subscriber with whom I had been talking about washing glassware. He wrote that even in Seattle which has soft water, he has a hard time getting glasses clean. So he suggested I write about this in one of my blogs. I replied that I would do so.
In Walla Walla, we have hard water which makes glassware washing hard work. Washing with detergent either in a dishwasher or by hand leads to mineral and detergent build-up inside the glass which causes beading inside the bowl, an annoying situation.
One time, one of my Walla Walla winemaking friends told me how he cleans stemware. Dissolve two compounds (obtainable at wine making supply stores) in bowls or buckets. One of Sodium Percarbonate (trade name: Proxy Clean). In another container, Citric Acid. With a clean sponge, scrub the inside of the wineglass bowl with the Proxy Clean, then rinse in Citric Acid (which neutralizes alkali), then rinse in water and dry with a lint-free towel or chamois. On the East side, of the state, vigorous scrubbing is needed, on the West, much less so.
Wine and Food Pairings
In Walla Walla, I do a lot of grilling on the back deck. My all-purpose marinade is 1/4 cup of soy sauce, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tsp. ground coriander and 1/2 tsp. cumin. Sometimes I add a bit of squeezed lime. I marinate about 20-30 minutes. Last week, we had guests at our house. One evening, we had marinated boneless skinned chicken breasts with Rotie Cellars Southern White and Flying Trout Sangiovese. The next night, we had marinade-brushed skewered scallops and shrimp with red pepper, zucchini and Walla Walla sweet onion, accompanied by Bergevin Lane Viognier and Forgeron Cellars Roussanne.
Free Shipping at Rotie Cellars and aMaurice
Two Walla Wineries whose wines I have recommended in previous issues are offering free ground shipping for a limited time. They are:
Rotie Cellars is shipping orders for three or more bottles for free. See my January issue for the review of the '07 Northern and Southern Red and the July issue for the '08 Southern White. www.rotiecellars.com
aMaurice Cellars is shipping orders for six or more bottles for free. See the June issue for the '06 "Tsutakawa" Red and the August issue for the '08 Viognier. The '06 Malbec and '06 Syrah and '06 Chardonnay are also recommended. www.amaurice.com
Harvest 2009 Begins: Merlot Mania
When we arrived in Walla Walla on September 13th, crush was already starting. On Monday, we visited Isenhower Cellars, and they had bins of Merlot fermenting. Other wineries had just crushed Merlot, were crushing Merlot or were about to crush Merlot. On Thursday, I got an email from Erica Blue at Adams Bench in Woodinville saying they were going to crush Merlot on Friday. "It's a great time of year," she wrote. More about the '09 harvest over the coming weeks.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Where to Dine in Walla Walla
Last winter, according to a news article in the Walla Walla Union-Bulletin, five restaurants went out of business. Of these, 26 Brix was the most prominent. It's biggest problem was generating enough volume to sustain its spacious, nicely-decorated and well-staffed bar and dining areas. It is a real loss, but there are at least five other fine dining places worth eating at.
White House Crawford. The spacious dining area, well-prepared dishes, and the knowledgeable and attentive staff make this a memorable dining experience. The wine list is extensive and well thought out.
T. Macaronne's. This is one of our favorites for casual dining. Tom Macaronne offers an eclectic Italian-oriented menu. The short wine list is revised frequently and often includes new wineries, some of which I have reviewed after discovering them at T Mac's.
Brasserie Four. On Four East Main Street, this is a casual, kid-friendly French bistro-style restaurant that does a fine job. The wine list, unsurprisingly, offers a mix of French and American selections. Other wines by the bottle can be selected from a shelf facing the bar.
Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen. The name leaves no doubt as to the genre of this restaurant. It offers tasty, aromatic, well-prepared dishes. The limited, but well-selected, wine list consists of French, Italian, Spanish and American bottlings.
Creektown Cafe. South of downtown, this is a favorite of locals. Casual and eclectic "American," it is easy to like. Local fish and game are often offered. The wine list features local and international selections.
The Marc. We have not eaten at the Marc, the dining room of the Marcus Whitman Hotel, but we had a well-prepared Walla Walla Winemakers' Fete dinner in one of the banquet rooms.
A note about wine corkage charges. All the restaurants we have dined at allow guests to bring their own bottles provided they are not already on their wine lists. However, most do offer reasonably-priced wines by the glass or bottle. Corkages are generally $15-20, so my suggestion is to order a moderately-priced ($25-40) from the list. If you have that special bottle you want to bring, then by all means do so.
Wine Buy of the Week
In the next issue of the Review of Washington Wines, I will be reporting on "What's New in Woodinville." One of the wines that will be included is the one below. We've served it several times and it has turned out to be a real crowd pleaser. For under $20, it's a fine value, too.
2008 William Church Viognier, Columbia Valley ($18)
From the Connor Lee vineyard, this textbook Viognier offers a lovely nose of white peach, and South Pacific flowers. The stone fruits echo on the palate with a pleasing creaminess and the lush semi-tropical flavors glide effortlessly into a grapefruit and pineapple tinged finish along with a twist of orange peel. 18.5/20 points.
- Written by Rand Sealey
About the 20 Point System
A few days ago, I received an email from a subscriber asking if he could obtain permission to use my 20 point system in a blind Barbera tasting and what it would cost. I replied: "It won't cost you anything and you don't need my permission." I explained that the system isn't really new, It was originated by the University of California at Davis in the late 1950's.
The Davis 20 point system was commonly used in evaluating wines until the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator came along with the 100 point system. The Davis faculty experimented with 100 points in the 1940's, then came to the conclusion later that a 20 point system provided more precise results. The Davis system assigned points on a form: Clarity (2 points) Color (2) Bouquet (4) Total acidity (1) Sweetness (1) Body/Texture (2) Flavor/Taste (2) Acescensy (Bitterness) (1) Astingency (1) Overall quality (4). The last allows for more subjectivity than the other criteria, but less so than a 100 point scale. I generally don't use the forms when evaluating, but have them in the back of my head.
One interesting thing about the U.C. Davis system is that wines scoring 17-20 points are considered "wines of outstanding characteristics having no defects." This must mean that some wines are more outstanding than others. This is what the 17-20 point range means to me:
17 points - Very good, above the average for "premium" wines.
18 points - Exceptional, particularly fine wines.
18.5 points - A step higher, more complex and nuanced.
19 points - Outstanding, wines with great complexity.
19.5 points - A step higher into the realm of superlative depth and complexity.
Occasionally (but not often) I will use a + to indicate a wine that is a notch above it's point level in complexity.
The beauty of the 20 point system is its simplicity which reduces (but does not eliminate) the influence of subjectivity into the evaluation process. Wines get rated on the basis of their overall balance and total performance. This is what I strive to do.
For more information about the Davis 20 Point System go to: http://www.musingsonthevine.com/tops_rate.shtml
Super September Buys at Esquin
In its September mailer, Esquin Wine Merchants is offering more great buys. Here are three that are not to be missed.
2008 Barnard Griffin Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley ($7.99 bottle / Regular $13)
This is one of the best buys in an everyday white I've found in a long time. Rich nose of melon, peach and honeysuckle. The fruit compote flavors are bright and vivid with cream and lichee nut undertones. The lively juiciness pour on through into a bright orange peel and lime juice finish. 17.5/20 points.
2004 Sandhill Merlot, Red Mountain ($9.99 bottle / Regular $25)
Esquin sold out of the 2003 vintage, and now has the 2004. It emits a bouquet of roasted berries and cherries, cigar box and sage. The dark flavors are underlain with Red Mountain loam and minerals along with bittersweet chocolate, espresso and roasted nuts followed by dry tannins. The only negative is the slightly bitter dusty tannin edge on the finish (drink with a juicy steak to cut this edge). Hence 18.5 points minus .5 points for acescensy (bitterness) - see the 20 point system above - equals 18/20 points, still impressive for $9.99.
2006 Waters Syrah, Columbia Valley ($18.99 bottle / Regular $28)
Principally from the Minnick vineyard near Prosser, this wine exhibits a deep color with a rich, smoky boysenberry and cassis nose with scents of crushed roses, tobacco and sage. The rich earthy, terroir-driven flavors are underlain with basalt minerals and tones of espresso coffee, licorice and bittersweet chocolate. The back palate contains vibrant pomegranate and plum fruits that are imbued with a creme brulee texture and spices in the silky tannin finish. It doesn't hit you as being real big, but the nuances are more complex than any Syrah I've tasted for under $20. 18.5/20 points.
- Written by Rand Sealey
How I Became a Wine Writer
It was in 1969 that I became a professional wine writer. In December of that year Esquin Wine Merchants of Seattle was opened. From the beginning, it published and mailed monthly newsletters modeled after those of the San Francisco store of the same name. They were mostly about French and German wines. Washington wine was still in its infancy. I would write detailed descriptions of each wine being offered so customers would know just what they were getting. That was the marketing cornerstone.
In those early years, Esquin was basically a mail order business. A typical newsletter would describe about a dozen wines together with an order form. From the late 'seventies on, I would take trips to France and Germany and report on my wine discoveries upon my return. In the 'eighties the business grew steadily. As the wine selection expanded, the newsletter became a four page tabloid with over a hundred wines. But the original concept remained the same. In 1997, though, I finally decided to let Esquin go into the future with a new owner.
Settling my parents' estate kept me busy for a year afterwards until one day when Esquin's owner, Chuck Lefevre, asked me if I was interested in returning as a consultant to do the newsletter. So I agreed. Then, in March of 2007, my wife and I happened to stop in Walla Walla on the way home from Sun Valley. We fell in love with the town and its wines. In January of 2008, we bought a second home there. I subsequently proposed adding a "Washington Wine Review" to Esquin's monthly on-line newsletters. The experiment, however, somehow got lost among Esquin's myriad marketing activities and was abandoned by year's end. It was then that my independent Review of Washington Wines was born, with the launch issue going on-line in December.
I have not had any formal training in wine tasting and writing. My first wine event was as an undergraduate at Columbia University where I attended a tasting conducted by the California Wine Institute. My learning since has come from decades of experience. My approach has always been the same: to evaluate wines objectively and write descriptions as accurately as possible. After nearly forty years, I am still doing the same thing.
Check out the Washington Wine Commission's Website
This is a website any serious follower of Washington wines should bookmark. It has all kinds of information about Washington wines, news and tips for wine country visiting. For instance, there is a link to Budget Travel's article "Wine Country Contenders," which lists Walla Walla as one of those places where "Perhaps they're not the first place you think of when it comes to wineries, but these four regions offer character and great wine without the hoopla." Go to www.washingtonwine.org.
Wine Tip of the Week
Woodinville Wine Cellars has turned out a very nice "combination of select barrels" consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah, aged in 40% new oak.
2006 Woodinville Wine Cellars Little Bear Creek Red, Columbia Valley ($20)
This offers a ripe raspberry, plum and spice nose with generous, yet focused red (berry and cherry) and dark (plum, blueberry) flavors that are accented by licorice, cocoa, bramble, nutmeg and clove notes. Overall, it delivers considerable flavor depth and interest for under $20.