Wine Best Buys of 2021
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Below is our annual list of wines scoring 19/20 points for $40 or less and wines scoring 18.5/20 points for $25 or less. Some wines may be sold out and ones that have rolled over to new vintages have been omitted.
Wines Scoring 19/20 Points for $40 or Less
2016 Henry Earl Petit Verdot, Red Mountain ($40) - February
2018 Wind Rose Cellars "Barrel Select" Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley ($30) - February
2017 Wind Rose Cellars Sagrantino, Yakima Valley ($40) - February
2014 Côte de Ciel Petit Verdot, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($40) - March
2014 Côte de Ciel Syrah, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($38) - March
2018 Kerloo Cellars Grenache, Snipes Mountain, Upland Vineyard ($40) - March
2018 Fortuity Cellars Syrah, Yakima Valley, DuBrul Vineyard ($40) - March
2018 Fortuity Cellars "La Classique" Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($40) - March
2018 Longship Cellars "Ginger Man" Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills, Phinny Hill Vineyard ($36) - April
2018 Longship Cellars "Once is Enough" Petit Syrah, Columbia Valley ($36) - April
2019 Aluvé Estate Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley, Menozzi Vineyard ($36) - May
2020 Abeja Viognier, Walla Walla Valley ($40) - June
2019 Foundry Vineyards Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Conley Vineyard ($32) - June
2017 Tapteil "Artist" Syrah, Yakima Valley, Spilya Vineyard ($40) - July
2015 Thurston Wolfe "Geologist" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($40) - July
2018 Seven Hills Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley, McClellan Vineyard ($40) - July
2019 Grosgrain Grenache, Red Mountain, Red Heaven Vineyard ($36) - July
2019 Grosgrain Grenache, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($36) - July
2019 Grosgrain Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, Los Roscos Vineyard ($36) - July
2019 Grosgrain Mourvèdre Walla Walla Valley ($36) - July
2019 Alton Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, Olsen Vineyard ($36) - July
2020 Brook & Bull Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($32) - August
2017 Tempus Cellars Vintage Red Wine, Columbia Valley, Sagemoor Vineyard ($38) - August
2020 Kinhaven Viognier, Walla Walla Valley ($36) - August
2018 Barrister Carmenère, Wahluke Slope ($39) - August
2017 Barrister Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Pepper Bridge Vineyard ($39) - August
2018 Winescape Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley ($35) - September
2018 Winescape "GSM" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($39) - September
2019 Three Rivers Petit Verdot, Red Mountain, Heart of the Hill Vineyard ($40) - September
2018 Three Rivers "Trivulet" Red Wine, Wahluke Slope ($38) - September
2020 Woodward Canyon Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley ($29) - September
2019 Amos Rome "Foundation" Estate Red Wine, Lake Chelan ($40) - September
2018 Amos Rome Malbec, Lake Chelan ($37) - September
2018 Gard Vintners "Vaucluse" Red Wine, Columbia Valley, Lawrence Vineyard ($40) - September
2017 Bartholomew Tannat, Rattlesnake Hills, Konowak Vineyard ($37) - September
2017 Bartholomew Carmenère, Red Mountain ($37) - September
2020 Foundry Vineyards "GSM" Red Wine, Columbia Valley, Conley Vineyard ($40) - October
2020 L'Ecole No 41 Chardonnay, Ancient Lakes, Evergreen Vineyard ($36) - October
2019 L'Ecole No 41 "GSM" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($39) - October
2020 Saviah Cellars Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Saviah Estate Vineyard ($30) - October
2019 Saviah Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($38) - October
2018 Saviah Cellars "Hunt & Gather" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($38) - October
2020 Vital Wines Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($28) - October
2020 Brook & Bull Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($32) - October
2020 Pepper Bridge Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley ($36) - October
2018 College Cellars "La Laurel" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($30) - October
2018 College Cellars Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley, Clarke Vineyard ($30) - October
2019 The Walls "The Ramparts" Red Wine, Red Mountain ($38) - November
2018 Isenhower Cellars A Bloc Malbec, Columbia Valley ($40) - November
2018 Isenhower Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Wallula Vineyard ($40) - November
2020 Gramercy Cellars Viognier, Columbia Valley ($28) - November
2019 Avennia "Justine" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($40) - November
2020 Mark Ryan Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($40) - November
2016 Cotes de Ciel Counoise, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($35) - November
2016 Cotes de Viel Syrah, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($38) - November
2018 Eight Bells "Southern Voyage" Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($38) - November
2017 Eight Bells "David's Block" Red Wine, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard ($38) - November
2018 Mustard Seed Cellars Syrah, Umpqua Valley, Oregon ($38) - November
2018 Mustard Seed Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Oregon, Winesap Vineyard ($38) - November
2018 Mustard Seed Cellars Malbec, Oregon, Cockburn Vineyard ($38) - November
2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Enchantress" Chardonnay, Yakima Valley ($28) - December
2018 àMaurice Cellars "ReRe" Artist Red Wine Blend, Columbia Valley ($40) - December
2018 Foundry Vineyards "Artisan" Red Blend,
2019 Gilbert Cellars Pinot Noir, Horse Heaven Hills ($38) - December
2019 Clearwater Canyon Cellars Carmenère, Washington, Phinney Hill Vineyard ($32) - December
2019 Clearwater Canyon Cellars "The Wine Project" Red Wine, Lewis-Clark Valley ($32) - December
2019 Clearwater Canyon Cellars "Coco's Reserve No. 5" Red Wine, Washington ($38)
N.V. Browne Family Vineyards "Gigi" American Sparkling Rosé Wine ($40) - December
Wines Scoring 18.5/20 Points for $25 or Less
2019 Amos Rome Estate Chardonnay, Lake Chelan ($22) - March
2018 Freehand Cellars Syrah, Yakima Valley ($23) - April
2018 Freehand Cellars Petit Verdot, Yakima Valley ($23) - April
2020 Gramercy Cellars Picpoul, Walla Walla Valley ($20) - May
2020 Efeste Riesling, Ancient Lakes ($20) - May
2020 Walla Walla Vintners Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, Sagemoor Vineyard ($22) - May
2020 Gorman "Luanne" White Wine, Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard ($25) - June
2019 College Cellars Semillon, Walla Walla Valley, Clarke Vineyard ($18) - June
2020 Grardian Cellars "Angel" Sauvignon Blanc, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard ($20) - June
2020 Wautoma Springs Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($17) - July
2020 Thurston Wolfe "PGV" White Wine, Columbia Valley ($15) - July
2020 Thurston Wolfe Albarino, Yakima Valley, Crawford Vineyard ($20) - July
2020 Grosgrain Albarino, Walla Walla Valley, Phillips Vineyard ($24) - July
2020 Balboa Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley ($25) - August
2020 Balboa Grenache Blanc, Walla Walla Valley, Blue Mountain Vineyard ($25) - August
2020 Balboa Grüner Veltliner, Columbia Valley ($25) - August
2019 Tempus Cellars Riesling, Ancient Lakes, Evergreen Vineyard ($22) _ August
2020 Orr Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley, Upland Vineyard ($25) - August
2020 Orr Grenache, Royal Slope ($25) - August
2018 Orrb Merlot, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($25) - August
2020 Entiat "Cordellerian" White Wine, Columbia Valley, Double DD Vineyard ($23) - August
2020 Chateau Ste Michelle Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley ($18) - August
2020 Foundry Vineyards "White on White" Wine, Columbia Valley ($20) - August
2020 Gard Vintners "Freyja" White Wine, Royal Slope, Lawrence Vineyard ($18) - August
2020 Seven Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($20) - September
2020 Helix Chardonnay, Royal Slope, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($21) - September
2020 Amos Rome "Bighorn" White Wine, Lake Chelan, Lookout Vineyard ($20) - September
2020 College Cellars Marsanne, Walla Walla Valley, Anderson Vineyard ($20) - October
2019 College Cellars Viognier, Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($20) - October
2018 College Cellars Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Clarke Vineyard ($25) - October
2019 Guardian Cellars "Chalk Line" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($25) - November
2020 Gard Vintners Sauvignon Blanc, Royal Slope, Lawrence Vineyard ($25) - November
2020 Gard Vintners Semillon, Columbia Valley ($25) - November
2020 Gard Vintners Albarino, Royal Slope, Lawrence Vineyard ($25) - November
2020 Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Columbia Valley ($16) - November
2019 Poet's Leap Riesling, Columbia Valley ($20) - November
2018 Newsprint Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($21) - November
N.V. Tirridis Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine ($24) - December
2019 Clearwater Canyon Cellars "Renaissance" Red Wine, Lewis-Clark Valley ($25) - December
2019 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills, Horse Heaven Vineyard ($20) - December
The Top Wines of 2021
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
Here is our annual listing of wines scoring 20/20 points and 19.5/20 points (using the University of California Davis 20 point system) for the year.
Wines Scoring 20/20 Points
2018 Force Majeure Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($125) - June
2019 Rotie Cellars "Big G" Estate Grenache, Walla Walla Valley ($85) - December
2019 Rotie Cellars "Love Rocks" Syrah, Rocks of Milton-Freewater, ENTAV Clone 470 ($65) December
2019 Rotie Cellars "Love Rocks" Syrah, Rocks of Milton-Freewater, ENTAV Tablas Creek Clone ($65) - December
In the January 2022 issue there will be three wines scoring 20/20 points that did not make it into the December issue
2018 Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard ($80)
2018 Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Mays Discovery Vineyard ($80)
2028 Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($80)
Wines Scoring 19.5/20 Points
2018 Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($70) - January
2018 Valdemar Estates Syrah, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard ($80) - January
2017 Prospice Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Quintessence Vineyard ($80) - January
2017 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($65) - January
2017 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Pepper Bridge Vineyard ($65) - January
2017 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($65) - January
2017 Pepper Bridge "Trine" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($70) - January
2018 Tierra Labrada Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Elevation Vineyard ($85) - January
2018 Tierra Labrada Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley, Elevation Vineyard ($85) - January
2018 Tierra Labrada Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Elevation Vineyard ($95) - January
2019 Canvasback Riesling, Columbia Valley ($30) - February
2017 Canvasback Syrah, Red Mountain ($70) - February
2017 Canvasback Cabernet Franc, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($70) - February
2017 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($70) - February
2017 Kontos Cellars "Brielle" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($65) - March
2018 Kerloo Cellars Grenache, Yakima Valley, Lonesome Springs Vineyard ($57) - March
2018 L'Ecole No 41 Ferguson Vineyard Estate Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($70) - April
2018 PASXA Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, River Rock Vineyard ($80) - May
2018 PASXA Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, River Rock Vineyard ($80) - May
2018 PASXA Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, SJR Vineyard ($80) - May
2018 Avennia "Sestina" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($75) - May
2017 Avennia Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard ($95) - May
2018 DeLille Cellars Red Willow Blend Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($75) - May
2018 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate Red Wine, Red Mountain ($90) - May
2018 DeLille Cellars Harrison Hill Red Wine, Snipes Mountain ($105) - May
2018 Force Majeure "Parvata" Red Wine, Red Mountain ($70) - June
2018 Force Majeure "Epinette" RedWine, Red Mountain ($95) - June
2019 Holocene "Apocrypha" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($60) - June
2019 Holocene "Memorialis" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($60) - June
2018 Canvasback Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Funk Vineyard ($70) - June
2018 Canvasback "Grand Passage" Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($84) - June
2018 Woodward Canyon Estate Reserve Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($89) - June
2019 Valdemar Estates Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, DuBrul Vineyard ($50) - June
2018 Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard ($80) - June
2018 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard Hill Block ($58) - June
2018 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard Plateau Block ($58) - June
2018 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Old Block ($58) - June
2017 Fidelitas Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Quintessence Vineyard ($70) - July
2018 Wautoma Springs "Long Vine" Clone 8 Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($100) - July
2018 Va Piano "Black Label" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($75) August
2018 Va Piano "Black Label" Cabernet Sauvignon, Rattlesnake Hills, DuBrul Vineyard ($105) - August
2018 House of Bones Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge, Celilo Vineyard ($45) - September
2018 Proper Wines Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($85) - September
2017 Northstar "Premier" Merlot, Columbia Valley ($80) - September
2020 Abeja Chardonnay, Washington ($45) - October
2018 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($65) October
2018 Pepper Bridge Seven Hills Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($65) - October
2018 Pepper Bridge "Trine" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($70) - October
2020 Canvasback Riesling, Royal Slope ($30) - October
2018 Abeja Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Heather Hill Vineyard ($75) - November
2018 Kontos Cellars "Dorsey" Baker Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($55) - November
2018 Saviah Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, The Stones Speak Vineyard ($55) - November
2019 Brook & Bull Reserve Makbac, Walla Walla Valley ($58) - November
2019 Mark Ryan "Little Sister" Merlot, Columbia Valley ($80) - November
2019 Mark Ryan "Dead Horse" Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($90) - November
2018 The Walls "Mahana" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, River Rock Vineyard ($56) - November
2018 Gramercy Cellars "Langiappe" Syrah, Columbia Valley, Red Willow Vineyard ($65) - November
2018 Gramercy Cellars Estates Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($72) - November
2019 Valdemar Estates Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($50) - December
2019 Valdemar Estates Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($65) - December
2019 Valdemar Estates Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Blue Mountain Vineyard ($75) - December
2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Longwinds Vineyard ($72) - December
2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard ($72) - December
2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($72) - December
2019 Rotie Cellars "Little g" Grenache, Washington State ($65) - December
2019 Rotie Cellars "dre" Mourvèdre, Washington Stater ($65) - December
2018 àMaurice Cellars "Owl and Crown" Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($75) - December
2017 Kontos Cellars "The Boss" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley ($195 - 1.5 Liter) - December
2018 Sleight of Hand Cellars "Psychedelic" Syrah Walla Walla Valley, Stoney Vine Estate Vineyard ($60) - December
An Oyster and Chablis Tasting Plus More Burgundies
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- Written by Rand Sealey
An Oyster and Chablis Tasting
On Friday, December 3, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of oysters and Chablis. Six wines were served: one Chablis, three Premier Crus and two Grand Crus. The wines were accompanied by Kumamoto and Kushi oysters from Foodscape and jambon persillé (a parsley aspic which, according to my research, makes an excellent accompaniment to Chablis besides oysters). Here are my notes.
2019 Lamblin & Fils Chablis ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This communal appellation wine shows a light gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, melon, pear blossoms and hillside wildflowers and a hint of wintergreen. The flavors are delicate, yet well delineated, with notes of grape and pear skins and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Domaine Sylvain Chablis Premier Cru, Forêts ($39.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This is the first Premier Cru Chablis for under $40 I've seen in a long time (most are $50). It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, orange peel, apple blossoms, hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors are crisp and resonant, yet accessible, with notes of grape and pear skins and hillside minerals. The back picks up apple and peach liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Louis Moreau Chablis Premier Cru, Vau Ligneau ($45.90 - Foodscape) - This shows a brilliant gold color and aromas of green apple, Crenshaw melon, grapefruit, apple blossoms, hillside flowers and wet stone. The flavors combine green and yellow fruits with oyster shell stones and and melon rind. The back reveals Calvados liqueur and grapefruit peel on the way to a bracing, steely finish. Goes great with Kumamotos. 19/20 points.
2019 Fevre-Fevre Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume ($48.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses a steely, floral nose of pear, peach, lime, pear blossoms, wildflowers, and wet stone. On the palate, the wine is dynamically styled, with ripe fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and Kimmeridgian calcareous minerals. The finish is especially exquisite for a Premier Cru, with a long, balanced finish. Judged the best 1er Cru by most tasters. 19+/20 points.
2019 Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($99.99 - wine.com) - This is a great step above Premier Cru. It displays an iridescent gold color and rich, floral aromas of old tree pears, peach, melon, lime, apple blossoms, wildflowers and gunflint. The flavors are steely, pure high elevation Chardonnay, marked by grape and apple skins and oyster shell minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, followed by a persistently minerally finish. 19.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos ($109.99 - wine.com) - This is made in an elegant, crisp negociant style. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it presents floral aromas of apple, peach, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, wildflowers and wet stone. The flavors are a bit less focused than the Louis Michel Le Clos, with charming white and green fruits that are accented by grape skins and calcareous minerals. The wine finishes crisp and minerally. 19+/20 points.
Other New Burgundies
2020 Roux Pere & Fils Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse ($18.99 - wine.com) - This offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are fresh and bright, showing considerable Chardonnay purity, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. Fine value. 18+/20 points.
2019 Laurent Perrachon & Fils Saint-Amour "La Gagière" ($19.99 - wine.com) - This is a lovely Cru Beaujolais. It displays a brilliant ruby color and perfumed aromas of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate, red roses, sweet pea flowers and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are charming, with red fruits that are imbued by red licorice, chocolate, black tea and granitic minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a pleasingly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Château des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent ($24.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a brick red color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, brambly currants, black roses, tobacco, bayberry and stick incense. The flavors are thick and vigorous, with generous red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine enriches further with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a warm (14% alcohol) chewy ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
The following three wines come from a Domaine in Morey-St. Denis, that of Frederic and Michel Magnien, that has extensive holdings in the Côte de Nuits. The wines are aged in amphorae, which make them quite distinctive.
2019 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir ($28.99 - wine.com) - From vineyards outside of the Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St. Denis and Vosne-Romanee, this shows a brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, blood orange, red roses, purple lilac, sweet tobacco and brambles. The flavors are ample yet deep, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside earth. The appeal continues on the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côteaux Bourguignnons Pinot Noir ($29.99 - wine.com) - This comes from a small vineyard above the Côte de Nuits. It displays a deep crimson color and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, black roses, juniper berry, a hint of mint, and incense. The flavors are strikingly deep and full (sealed in by the amphorae) with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine Michel Magnien Côte de Nuits Villages ($49.99 - wine.com) - This comes from Brochon which is situated between Fixin and Gerry-Chambertin. It shows a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild strawberries, red cherries, red currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously ripe and mouth-filling, with lavish red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted pecans, fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a long, supple slightly grainy tannin finish. 19/20 points.
More Sparkling & French Wines
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
In last week's blog, I wrote about the differences between Champagne and other sparkling wines. Since then, we've been trying other sparkling wines from Europe and the U.S. Here are our finds.
N.V. Domaine Ste Michelle Brut Sparkling Rosé, Columbia Valley ($11.99 - Safeway) - This sparkler sports a light copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and pink lilac. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, mouth-filling, with red fruits that are accented by cherry stones, orange peel and minerals. The back enlivens with red fruit liqueurs, orange peel and CO2 on the way to a tangy nicely fruited finish. At $11.99, this is a steal. 18+/20 points.
2017 Argyle Vintage Sparkling Wine, Willamette Valley ($24.99 - Safeway) - This vintage is comprised of 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier. It displays an iridescent gold color, pinpoint bubbles and aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, white lilac, orange peel and white incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant ("disgorged on demand") with white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lees and brioche, followed by a CO2 enlivened Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Chandon, Blanc de Pinot Noir Brut Sparkling Wine, California ($18.99 - Safeway) - This copper-tinged gold colored wine offers streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink chewy, grapefruit, pink roses, cherry blossoms and wildflowers. The flavors are brisk yet well textured, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The slightly leesy textured back picks up touches of toasted nuts, brioche and creme fraiche, followed by a true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Chandon Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, California ($18.99 - Safeway) - A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this shows a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and fragrant aromas of strawberry, cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, comprised of red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and kirsch liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 La Marca Prosecco Rosé ($13.99 - Safeway) - La Marca is the best selling Italian Prosecco in the U.S., but is surprisingly good for a commercial brand. This vintage (check the date on the back) offers a copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and fresh aromas of strawberry pink cherry and orange peel. The flavors are brisk, enlivened by CO2 and accented by grape skins and cherry stones, followed on the back by strawberry liqueur and recurring orange peel on the crisp low alcohol (11%) finish. A Lynn favorite. 18+/20 points.
2020 Jeio "Bisol 1542" Prosecco Brut Rosé ($18 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Light copper colored, this possesses streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink peach, Mandarin orange, pink roses, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are nicely fruited, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with strawberry and peach liqueurs and recurring orange peel, enliven by CO2 on the crisp, juicy low alcohol (11%) finish. 18+/20 points.
N.V. Loosen Bros "Dr. L" Sparkling Riesling ($19 - The Thief) - This German Sekt shows a brilliant lemon-gold color, streaming bubbles and fragrant aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and crisp, with white and yellow fruits that are accented by grape and, pear skins, CO2 and steely minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens further with pear and peach liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a dry, persistently minerally finish. "This is delicious - has character," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d'Alsace, Brut Réserve ($19 - The Thief) - Brilliant gold colored, this emits streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of apple, pear, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, white lilac and wet stone. The flavors are bright and resonant, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens further burgh poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon custard and toast, followed by a lively Brut finish. "So delicious," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Louis Boulliot Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé, "Perle d'Aurore" ($23.99 - Safeway) - This is Pinot Noir with a bit of Gamay. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles, enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currant, blood orange, rose petals, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are nicely balanced, with pink fruits that are enlivened by grape skins and CO2. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a true Brut finish. "So festively pretty," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Laherte Frères Champagne Extra Brut ($52 - The Thief) - Here, Extra Brut means 4.5 g/L dosage instead of 6) Composed of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, it displays a light copper color, a frothy mousse and lovely aromas of Anjou pear, pink peach, blood orange, pear and orange tree blossoms and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are dramatic, with yellow and white fruits that are infused with grape and pear skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, recurring orange peel, lees and brioche, all counterpointed by CO2 on the dry, steely finish. 19/20 points.
New French Wines
Here are three Burgundies we've run across recently.
2021 Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Nouveau ($19.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Made in carbonic maceration "nouveau" style, this displays a crimson color and ripe, young aromas of strawberry, red red currant, pomegranate, red roses, purple lilac and whiffs of ground spices. The flavors are deliciously young and fresh, with copious red fruits that are accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds and a bit of earth. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and a bit of toasted nuts on the juicy finish. 18/20 points.
2020 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Village ($13.99 - Safeway) - This is an attractive new vintage. It offers a deep crimson color and engaging aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds, purple lilac and whiffs of ground spices. The medium bodied flavors are bright and fresh, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola and earth. The back picks up fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs in the way to a supple soft tannin finish. A tasty quaffable Beaujolais. 18/20 points.
2018 Justin Girardin Santenay Blanc, "Les Terrasses de Bievaux" ($32.99 - Esquin) - Santenay is situated at the southern end of the Côte d'Or. This Chardonnay presents a brilliant gold color and lovely aromas of Bosc pea, white peach, citrus, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and a hint of butternut. The flavors are vivid and true to variety, wish crisp yet viscous with white fruits that are imbued with grape skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and recurring butternut, followed by a lingering, finely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.
What is Champagne?
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
"Would you like some more Champagne?" says the host, even when pouring an American sparkling wine. There is a difference between Champagne from the Champagne district of France and other sparkling wines. Anything else is not Champagne, even if it is bottle fermented. This is a critical issue for the Comité Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC). Legally, in the European Union, sparkling wines from outside Champagne can only be called "methode traditionelle" or "methode classique." In 2006, the U.S. banned the use of the Champagne name except for wineries already using it, being "grandfathered" (so you see Cook's or Andre being called "Champagne"). In the U.S., "methode Champenoise" is still legal, a rankling point for the CIVC. But Champagne houses owning American sparkling wine producers never use that term, only methode traditiionelle. Petilliant Naturelle wines ("Pet Nats") are called "methode ancestrale," bottle fermented sparkling wines without disgorgement.
In the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines, you will find several American sparkling wines that are designated as methode traditiionelle or (incorrectly) methode champenoise. They are well made sparkling wines, but they are not Champagnes.
There is a shortage of Champagne in the U.S. due to shipping delays. Many containers of Champagne and other European sparkling wines (French Cremant, Italian Prosecco, Spainish CAVA and German Sekt) are waiting to be unloaded at American seaports. A couple of weeks ago, I ordered one of our favorite brands of Champagne from Esquin and found out that it was sold out. As substitutes, I got these two which we found to be outstanding. Both come from proprietares-manipulants - grower-producers - who grow and make their own Champagnes. Generally proprietaires-manipulants produced more interesting Champagnes than those from negociant-manipulants from the well-known houses.
N.V. R. Dumont & Fils Champagne Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature ($50.99 - Esquin) - This wine was aged 4 years on the lees (instead of 3) to give it extra richness to counterpoint the zero dosage. It displays a brilliant light copper color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, nectarine, orange peel, pink roses, orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are laser-like yet rich and expansive, with notes of grape skins, nectarine stone and distinct minerality. The resonance continues on the back with bracing fruit acids counterpointed by a leesy texture and fraise and Cointreau liqueurs, all followed by a lengthy, bone dry yet finely fruited finish. 19+/20 points.
N.V. Jean Vesselle Champagne Brut Reserve ($51.99 - Esquin) - From Bouzy, which grows mostly Pinot Noir, this is a striking Champagne. It exhibits a light copper color, fine streaming bubbles and lovely aromas of wild strawberry, peach, mandarin orange, cantaloupe and orange tree blossoms. The flavors are exquisitely wrought, with red and yellow fruits that are interwoven with grape skins, peach stones and saline minerals. On the back, the wine takes a tantalizing turn with fraise and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and recurring orange peel, followed by a lingering CO2 lifted, persistently minerally Brut finish. 19+/20 points.
Happy Thanksgiving
Once again, I have to say that Thanksgiving is a distinctly American Holiday and should be celebrated with American wines. My recommendation is to have a not too tannic wine (steer away from Cabernet Sauvignon) such as a Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir. A sparkling wine such as those in the December issue of the Review of Washington or a California one (Chandon is one our favorites) will also do nicely. Just don't call it Champagne. Enjoy your dinner with your favorite American wine!
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