Washington Liquor Privatization a Decade Later / A Super Buy from Cultura

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 14 July 2023

Liquor Privatization a Decade Later

It has been just ten years since that the initiative to privatize sales of spirts as well as wine and beer went into effect on July 1, 2013. With this, Washington State was taken out of the business of selling alcoholic beverages in state stores which is what the initiative was all about. Nearly 60% of the voters in November 2012 chose to put an end to state stores. The initiative included arcane layers of fees and taxes which took time to figure out. There is a $2.83 spirits tax and a 20.5% sales tax on spirits, both levied separately. But the effect of these taxes are mitigated by volume discounts which are permitted by the initiative. Other reductions can be found in production costs in producing spirits in huge volumes in column stills and in bottling in 1.75 liter bottles (I have seen many 1.75's in shopping carts at Safeway). All this is to the benefit of large retail operations such as Costco, Total Wine and Safeway that have the purchasing power to cut costs.

Over the past decade, the benefits of privatization have become evident with more convenience and wider choices. Stores also seem to be catering to the Gen X consumer. I have been struck by how many flavored Vodkas are being offered in just about anything. These products can be made cheaply by simply flavoring neutral spirits. These trends are also transferring to wine as more consumers are buying boxed wines and magnums. What all this means is that privatization in Washington works. And it works better than in a lot of other states. Our neighboring state, Oregon is among the states having the highest liquor prices in the country, thanks to state run stores. Washington consumers have gotten used to privatization and seem to be fine with it.

A Super Buy from Cultura

A couple of weeks ago, I saw on Facebook a posting by Erik McLaughlin about an impressive red from the Cultura winery in Zillah in the Yakima Valley. Then I happened to be in Selah with Lynn's niece who is married to a hops broker who has friends in the wine industry as well. He gave me a bottle of a Cultura wine which I found to be impressive.

2016 Cultura "Chronos" Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($40) - This bend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc offers a garnet edged ruby color and maturing aromas of blackberries, black cherries, plums, black roses, tobacco, cedar, semi dried herbs and stick incense. On the palate, the wine is thick and chewy, with aging softened dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, Swiss chocolate, coffee grounds and dusty earth. The back reveals semi dried berries and plums, roasted nuts, kirsch and toffee, followed by a lingering, chewy, age softened tannin finish. 19/20 points.

This wine happens to be on sale at the winery for $28 a bottle, which makes it a super buy. I also will be putting in an order for other Cultura wines to be reviewed in the September issue. I am always on the lookout for under the radar wines such as this one.

Walla Walla Valley Wine News

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 06 July 2023

New Highway 12 Extended

In mid-June, the new section of Highway 12 above the old highway going through Lowden and Touchet was opened. There had been concern about how that would impact the L'Ecole No 41 and Woodward Canyon wineries in Lowden which would be bypassed by the new highway. I have found there to be no significant impact. Last week, I drove over to pick up some wines at L'Ecole for the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines. As I drove west, I came right on to the new section and I wondered if I would have to go all the way to Touchet. Then I came to a sign for the exit for Lowden and I turned on to it, got on and overpass and then down the road right to L'Ecole. Fast and easy. Actually quicker than on the old highway. Yesterday, driving back to Walla Walla, we saw signage for Woodward Canyon and L'Ecole before the Lowden exit.

Brian Rudin Leaving Canvasback for Echolands

Last week, I saw on Facebook and announcement by Brian Rudin that "After nine wonderful years at Canvasback Wines, I am departing to pursue new dreams. Making wine at Duckhorn has been a rare gift - there is no other wine company like this in the world." Joe Czarny is "Taking up the reins" at Canvasback as the "handpicked successor." It has since been announced that Brian will be working at Echolands (see below). I am absolutely sure Brain and Joe will be great in their new positions.

Echolands New Winery Under Construction

In the June 11 issue of the Walla Walla Union-Bulletin, there was an article about the new production facility, hospitality center and barrel room being constructed Mill Creek Road east of Walla Walla which will be a 27,000 square foot facility. By the new facility, 75 acres have been earmarked for a high elevation vineyard that can be dry farmed like the neighboring Walla Walla Vintners, Aluvé and Figgins vineyards. The winery will be a state of the art facility and, with Brian Rudin, the winery plans to go big. Doug Frost, an author and wine consultant in Kansas City, is the CEO and proprietor. 

Avennia to Open a Tasting Room in Walla Walla

Last week, it was announced that the Avennia Winery in Woodinville is planning to open a tasting room in Downtown Walla Walla in the newly opened Wala Wála (old spelling) Pedestrian Plaza on 1st Avenue between Main and Alder streets. "It's at the epicenter of what's going on downtown," says CEO and owner, Marty Taucher. This continues the trend of wineries outside of Walla Walla opening tasting rooms in Walla Walla. In the past two years, Guardian Cellars, Kerloo Cellars and Patterson Cellars have opened tasting rooms in the area. And Avennia's new facility will the winery's third tasting room in addition to the ones at Woodinville and Red Mountain. 

Looking Ahead to August / Austrian Rosés

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 29 June 2023

Looking Ahead to August

I'm now working on the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines. In the July issue, "Coming up in the August Issue" says "Walla Walla Fall Releases Preview." Actually, August is too early for reviewing Fall releases. Most of the new wines will be Summer releases, mostly onesies and twosies. These will include recent releases from Brook & Bull, Balboa, Northstar, Deux Soldats and others. A special feature will be "Super Values from L'Ecole No 41. On July 4, we will go to the Yakima Valley to visit Owen-Roe in Wapato and VanArm Cellars in Zillah. Other reports will include current vintages from Kerloo Cellars and Nefarious Cellars on Lake Chelan. 

Austrian Rosés

On Friday of last week, I was in Foodscape to pick up our order, and owner Hannah MacDonald showed me three new Austrian Rosés that had just come in. So I bought a bottle of each. We found all three to be attractively styled, suitable as either as food wines or for summer sipping.

2022 Gerhard Markowitsch Carnuntum Rosé ($21.90 - Foodscape) - This comes from the Eastern edge of Austria and is composed of 50% Zweigelt (a crossing of St. Laurent and Blaufranckisch), 30% Blaufrancisch and 10% each of Pinot Noir and Merlot. It shows a light copper-pink color and floral aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, Mandarin orange, pink roses, pink lavender and orange incense. The flavors are fresh and nicely wrought, with pink fruits that are imbued by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up kirsch and orange peel, followed by a pleasing pink juice finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2022 Weingut Soeliner Wagram Rosé ($22.90 - Foodscape) - From Kamptal, this is composed of 80% Zwiegelt, and 10% each of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a copper-tinged  pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, tangerine, cherry blossoms and orange incense. The flavors are light but well delineated, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. On the back, the wine enlivens with berry and cherry liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a brisk, nicely juiced light alcohol (11.5%) finish. 18.5/20 points.

2022 Birgit Weiderstein Gottlesbrunn Rosé ($23.90 - Foodscape) - From Niederösterreich, this is comprised of 50% Zweigelt, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Blaufranckisch. It offers a bright copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, wild roses, orange blossoms, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are deliciously brisk and fresh, with pink and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals in a balanced style. The back picks up kirsch and orange peel on the way to a nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

Another 2022 Rosé Update

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 22 June 2023

Last weekend, I read an article in the Weekend Wall Street Journal by Lettie Teague, "Where to Turn in the Midst of a Rosé Rut." In it, she noted that Rosé wine sales are down overall, but some ones, according to retailers she interviewed, are selling well. Her recommendations in the article include three from Provence ("Provence still rules," said one retailer), one from the Languedoc and one Vin du Pays. One of these was the 2022 Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence, a brand developed by Sacha Lichine who popularized Rosé wines from 2006 on. I scored this wine 18.5+/20 points, noting its agreeable style. Another one I reviewed was the 2022 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis (a Provence sub appellation) which I scored 19/20 points. See the 31 May Blog posting for these two wines.

I, too, have noticed a rut of Rosé wines in supermarkets, with a lot of 2021's and even 2020's on shelves, including ones from Provence. The presence of older vintages is an indication of how well they are selling. But there are real gems to be found. We have found the 2022 Sancerre Rosés to be outstanding. "Sancerre through the roof," said one retailer interviewed by Lettie Teague. See the 16 May Blog posting below for the superb Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy's "Terre de Maimbray," 19.5/20 points. Also outstanding are the Domaine du Carrou, 18.5+/20 points and the Lucien Crochet, 19/20 points. Also outstanding is the 2022 La Bastide Blanche Bandol from just east of Marseille, scoring 19.5/20 points in the 24 May posting below.

There are excellent Washington State (and Oregon) Rosés as well, but the real standouts are the 2022 Mongata (June Review issue) and Canvasback (July issue), both scoring 19.5/20 points. Interestingly, both come from the Resurgent Vineyard on the South Fork of the Walla Walla River in Oregon. It's a toss up between the two. The Best Buy is the 2022 L'Ecole No 41 Grenache Rosé from the Alder Ridge Vineyard on the Horse Heaven Hills 19/20 points ($23 - April issue).

New Rosé Wines Tasted Recently

2022 Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhone Rosé ($10.99 - Safeway) - Fermented in stainless steel, this offers a light pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, pink currant and Mandarin orange, with scents of pink roses, lilac and pink incense. The flavors are light but well delineated, with notes of grape skins, orange peel and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs on the way to a brisk, juicy finish. Lynn: 3 of 3 stars. Super buy. 18.5/20 points.

2022 La Vieille Ferme Rosé ($12.29 - Super 1) - This is another super buy in French Rosé. It shows a light copper tinged pink color and attractive aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, pink currants and tangerine, with scents of pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and tangerine peel, followed by a nicely fruited finish. Lynn: 3 stars. 18.5/20 points.

2022 Figuière Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Signature Magali" ($20 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Composed of 35% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this displays a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pink currant, pink grapefruit, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Provençal minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp, juicy finish. A nice, approachable Rosé. 18.5/20 points. 

2022 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé ($31 - The Thief) - Most Gigondas is red, but some Rosé is made. This one shows a brilliant copper-pink color and intriguing aromas of strawberry, pink currant, Mandarin orange, pink rose, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are pleasingly juicy, leaning to orange, with notes of grape skins and Montmirial minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a lightly spiced finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points. 

2022 Domaine Bailly-Reverdy Sancerre Rosé, "La Mercy Dieu" ($36 - The Thief) - Most Sancerre is white (Sauvignon Blanc) but some red and Rosé are made from Pinot Noir. This one is outstanding. It exhibits a brilliant copper tinged pink color and lovely aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, Mandarin orange, pink roses, daylilies and pink incense. The flavors are deliciously juicy, yet elegant, with pink fruits that are imbued with cherry stones, orange peel and upper Loire River minerals. On the back, the wine is illuminated but fraise and cerise liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a lingering, precise finish. 19/20 points. 

Here's one from Spain's Basque Region

2022 Ameztoi Getario Txaklcolina Robutis ($23 - The Thief) - This is an intriguing Rosé made from an indigenous grape. It shows a light pink color and aromas of wild strawberry, pink cherry, pink grapefruit, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are brisk and deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Basque minerals. The back picks up cherry and kirsch liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a low alcohol (11.5%) juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.

The following two wines will be in the August Review of Washington Wines with full reviews.

2022 Seven Hills Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($22) - This was released later than usual as the winery has the 2021 to move through. It shows a brilliant light pink color and attractive aromas of pink flowers and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted and nicely juiced. 18.5/20 points.

2022 Nefarious Rosé, Columbia Valley ($22) - This one from a Lake Chelan winery features a copper-tinged pink color and perfumed aromas, juicy flavors and an appealing fraise liqueur and orange peel accented finish. 18.5/20 points.

Finally, keep in mind that when it comes to Roses, preferences are highly personal. Certain Rosés are not for everyone. There are many styles to choose from and one should read the descriptions to determine if a wine fits one's taste.