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Next weekend, May 5-7 will be Spring Release Weekend in the Walla Walla Valley. A lot of new wines will be poured. As a guide to wineries to visit, here are previews of new releases from wineries we've already visited. Full reviews will be in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

College Cellars

The Walla Walla Community College's Institute for Enology and Viticulture has three new whites and three reds. If you are looking for value, this is a place to go to.

2022 Riesling, Columbia Valley, Bacchus Vineyard ($20) - This offers floral aromas of pear, peach, apricot lime, honeysuckle and white incense with bright white fruits and a medium dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2021 Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley, Anderson Vineyard ($20) - With aromas of pear-apple, peach and lime and scents of honeysuckle and jasmine, along with deliciously ripe and juicy flavors, this delivers a lot for the modest price. 19/20 points.

2021 Chardonnay, Walla Walla Valley, Anderson Vineyard  ($20) - This possesses considerable varietal character, with pleasingly juicy yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and saline minerals and touches of pecan and creme fraiche. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, Clarke Vineyard ($30) - This has the Merlot earmarks of raspberry, cherry and plum, red roses, tobacco, black tea and roasted nuts, followed by a chewy tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 "Laurelia" Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($30) - This is a standout. It offers rich aromas of raspberry, cherry and red currant with generous yet focused red fruit flavors that lead seamlessly into a long, satiny sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Summit View Vineyard ($30) - Classically-styled with rich aromas and authoritative flavors and a long, firm yet ripe tannin finish, this tastes like a $50 Cabernet. 19/20 points.

Reininger / Helix

Here, I tasted three delicious 2022 whites, one Rosé and an impressive 2020 "BDX" Red Blend. 

2022 Helix Sangiovese Rosé, Royal Slope, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($25) - Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a charming Rosé. It shows a pink-copper color and aromas of strawberry, pink cherry and pink grapefruit and brisk and fresh fruit flavors, and a mouthwatering finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2022 Helix Chardonnay, Royal Slope, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($26) - Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is attractively styled with floral aromas and yellow fruits that are enriched by sur lie stirring and poire and pêche liqueurs. 19/20 points.

2022 Helix Viognier, Royal Slope, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($32) - This is an outstanding Viognier that steers a mid course between the crisp and tropical styles. It shows remarkable precision and well delineated flavors. 19+/20 points.

2022 Reininger Semillon, Walla Walla Valley ($30) - This shows what can be done with Semillon. It possesses intriguing aromas with whiffs of wintergreen and lemongrass and brisk yet viscous flavors with touches of beeswax and grapefruit peel. 19+/20 points.

2020 Reininger "BDX" Red Blend, Walla Walla Valley ($32) - Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Malbec, this offers rich aromas of Marionberry, cherry and plum with ample yet focused flavors. The back picks up mocha and plum preserves, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Itä Winery

For spring, Kelsey Albro Itamera has turned out three interesting wines.

2022 Itä Rosé of Primitivo, Les Collines Vineyard ($28) - This clonal Zinfandel presents a pink-tinged light copper color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, pink cherry, orange and whiffs of garrigue. The flavors are lightly extracted yet mouth filling, with notes of cherry stones, framboise and light spices. 18.5/20 points.

2022 Itä Semillon, "1 of 2" Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($28) - Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this offers aromas of white fruits, meadow flowers and wet stone, with viscous and brisk flavors and touches of beeswax and lime zest on a moderate alcohol (13.6%) finish 19/20 points.

2022 Itä Semillon, " 2of 2" Walla Walla Valley, Les Coillines Vineyard ($28) - This version was fermented and aged in neutral oak. It shows intriguing aromas of white and green fruits and wet stone. The flavors are fresh and round, with a sur lie textured back and nicely juiced low alcohol (11.4%) finish. 19/20 points.

Prospice Wine 

Here, Jay Krutilis and Matt Reilly have turned out nice new wines, a 2022 Rosé and two whites.

2022 Prospice Rosé, Yakima Valley ($22) - Composed of 49% Grenache, 27% Cinauult and 24% Counoise, this is a charming Rosé. It shows a true pink color and aromas of strawberry, grapefruit and currant, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and minerals, followed by a brisk finish. 18.5/20 points.

2022 Prospice Viognier, White Bluffs, Gamache Vineyard ($30) - This steers a mid course between the crisp and tropical styles with floral aromas and vivid yellow and white fruits and calcareous minerals. The back picks up touches of cashew nuts, creme fraiche and lime zest. 18.5+/20 points.

2022 Prospice Grenache Blanc, Walla Walla Valley, Les Coillines Vineyard ($30) - This offers intriguing aromas of apple, peach, Key lime and vivid yellow and green fruit flavors that are imbued with saline minerals. lime zest and a hint of nougat. 18.5+/20 points. 

 

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Coming Up: Spring Release Weekend in Walla Walla

Next weekend, May 5-7, will be Spring Release Weekend in the Walla Walla Valley. There will be a lot of new wines being poured. In the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines, there will be new releases from Prospice, Reininger, Helix, Woodward Canyon, Ita and Smoky Rose. Foundry Vineyards will have new wines and pet-nats. And we will introduce Ducleaux Cellars, an up and coming winery in Milton Freewater.

Upcoming in June

Next week's Review Blog will report on the first imported 2022 Rosés, including ones from Provence and other wines from Burgundy. Another blog will take a look at Grüner Veltliner, an intriguing Austrian white variety. 

The June issue of the Review of Washington Wines will also include new releases from the Amos Rome Vineyards in Lake Chelan, including distinctive Grüner Veltliners. More new Rosés will be in that issue.

More later!

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What's in the May issue

The May issue of the Review of Washington Wines goes on line Tuesday, April 25. In it, there will be a lot of exciting new releases. Here's what's included.

Valdemar Estates - There will be three knock-out wines, all scoring 19.5/20 points: the 2021 Dubrul Chardonnay, the 2020 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2020 Klipsun Red Mountain Syrah.

LIMINAL - On April 9, we visited Avennia's Red Mountain tasting room where we tasted the new LIMINAL wines from a collaboration of Avennia and the WeatherEye Vineyard. All the wines were 19.5 or 20/20 points across the board. Also outstanding was the new Avennia 2020 Estate Red Mountain Cabernet, 19.5/20 points.

Rosés - There will be eight new 2022 Rosés. Three standouts are the Aluvé Sangiovese, Kinhaven Cabernet Sauvignon and Gramercy Cellars, all 19/20 points.

New International Wines

2020 Argyle Vintage Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, Willamette Valley ($36) - Composed of 54% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier, this displays a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles, and lovely, perfumed aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currant, pink roses, pink lilac, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are gorgeous, with precisely delineated pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and kirsch liqueurs, orange peel and bottle-fermented CO2 and touches of yeast and brioche, followed by a lingering Brut finish. Purchased for $26.99. 19/20 points.

N.V. Domaine Tissot Crémant du Jura ($32.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Brilliant pink-tinged bronze, this sparking wine brings forth frothy bubbles and seductive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, Mandarin orange, cherry blossoms and orange incense. The flavors are well textured, with pink and orange fruits that are accented by cherry stones and Jurassic minerals. The back picks up fraise and kirsch liqueurs on the CO2 enlivened bone dry (zero dosage) finish. From 60% Pinot Noir, and 20% each of Poulsard and Trousseau (indigenous grapes). 19/20 points.

2020 Louis & Claude Desvignes Morgon, Côte du Py, "Javennèiers" ($31.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cerise and cassis, with scents of crushed roses, purple lilac, blood orange and wild violets. The flavors are deliciously supple, with mouth filling red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, black tea and limestone. The back reveals pressed fruits, roasted nuts, crème de cassis and orange peel, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2021 La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Rhône ($17.99 - Safeway) - Purplish ruby colored, this offers rich aromas of raspberry, currant, plum, red roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue, olive and spiced incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted nuts and soft charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2020 Domaine Le Clos des Lumnières Côtes du Rhône ($17.90 - Foodscape) - This 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah combination shows a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry and currant with scents of black roses, lilac, tobacco, thyme, white pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and earth. The back picks up kirsch and cassis liqueurs and mocha, followed by a savory, chewy tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas, "Aux Lieu Dits" ($50.99 - Esquin) - Deep purplish-ruby colored, this wine emits intoxicating aromas of blackberries, mountain blueberries, black currants, black roses, dark tobacco, garrigue (a trait of Gigondas), sandalwood, wild violets and spiced incense. The flavors are bold and mouth filling, with black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, black tea and Montmirial minerals. The back reveals macerated fruits, creme de cassis and blueberry preserves, followed by a lengthy ripe tannin finish. "That Gigondas style is right there," says Lynn. 19+/20 points. 

2019 Caves de Tain Hermitage Blanc, "Nobles Rives" ($45 - Last Bottle) - I picked this up on a one shot deal off the $75 regular price. Produced from 100% Marsanne, it exhibits a brilliant lemon-gold color and striking aromas of Asian pear-apple, white peach, pink grapefruit, Kaffir lime, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, white lavender and yellow incense. The flavors are simultaneously viscous and laser-like, with vivid white and yellow fruits that are interwoven with pear skins, peach stones and riverside minerals. On the back, the wine gains intensity, with poire and pêche liqueurs, roasted hazelnuts, toffee and lime peel, all followed by an ultra-long semi dried fruit finish. 19.5/20 points. 

2018 Allegrini "Palazzo della Torre" Rosso Veronese ($30) - This north Italian red presents a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, blood orange, crushed rose petals, tobacco, leaf, oregano and stick incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with warm, supple (double fermented) red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, Italian roast and Veronese hillside earth and minerals. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted hazelnuts, raspberry and cherry liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a smooth tannin finish. Safeway: $26.99. 18.5/20 points.

Lynn loves California Chardonnay. Here are a couple she really likes.

2021 Simi Chardonnay, California ($25) - From a historic winery (established 1876) this shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear-apple, white peach, pineapple, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with yellow fruits that are accented by apple skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and vanilla, followed by a juicy finish. Safeway: $20.99. 18.5+/20 points. 

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($35) - From a respected winery, this offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Asian pear-apple, Elberta peach, Key lime, apple blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria, vanilla bean and green incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with yellow fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins, peach stones and coastal minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and lime zest, followed a lengthy finely juiced finish. Super 1: $29.99. 19/20 points.

 

 

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Walla Walla Spring Kick-Off Weekend

Last weekend, April 7-9, was Walla Walla Spring Kick-Off. Until last last year, the second weekend in April was known as Cayuse Weekend because that was when Christophe Baron held his winery opening and pick-up. Then other wineries opened up for spring releases and called it Spring Kick-Off. Why two spring release weekends, the other being the first weekend in May? Wineries now want to take advantage of opportunities to get visitors, especially after the COVID epidemics of the 2020-2021. An informal winery survey on Facebook by Sean Sullivan (Northwest Wine Report) indicated that the turnout for Spring Kick-Off was normal, about the same as last year, which is not surprising

Casey McClellan Named Interim Director at WWCC's Institute for Enology and Viticulture

Recently, it was announced that Casey McClellan has agreed to take on the job of interim director of the Community Colleges winemaking program. He replaces Stylianos Logothetis who resigned as director to return to Greece. Casey brings to the Institute decades of experience as an industry leader and owner-winemaker at the Seven Hills Winery. In the meantime, a search is under way for a new director.

Kate Derby Named Head of Winemaking Operations at Spring Valley Vineyards

It has been announced that Kate Derby Raymond has been named head winemaker at Spring Valley Vineyards. As granddaughter of Shari and Dean Derby and niece of Devin Derby, she has years of experience in the family-run winery north of Walla Walla. The former head winemaker, Serge Laville has departed after 20 years at Spring Valley.

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Chenin Blanc is one of the most undervalued grape varieties, one that delivers wines of high quality to price ratios. It is a variety that originated in France's Loire Valley. a crossing of Sauvignon Blanc and Savagnin (a grape also grown in Jura). It is a grape suitable for cooler climates, producing wines of higher acidity, yet ripe and well fruited. The best-known Chenin Blancs are those of Vouvray which is situated east of Tours on the Loire river. although significant plantings are located in Montlouis (across the river from Vouvray) and Coteaux du Layon. South Africa grows much Chenin Blanc, introduced by French Huguenots. In Washington State, much Chenin Blanc was planted in the 1970's, but the popularity waned as demand for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc increased.

In Washington State, especially in the Yakima Valley, the microclimates in cooler sites mirror those of the Loire Valley, making Chenin Blanc a highly suitable white grape. The alluvial and flood minerals also add to the wines' characteristics. There are not many practitioners of Chenin Blanc in Washington. Here are ones that make Chenin Blanc on a regular basis.

L'Ecole No 41 - This winery started producing a Chenin Blanc in the early 'eighties to emulate the Vouvrays that were cherished by co-founder Jean Ferguson. At $18 a bottle, it is a bargain. See the May 2022 issue of the Review of Washington Wines for the 2021 (18.5/20 points). The 2022 vintage will be reviewed in June.

Orr Wines - Erica Orr is a strong advocate of Chenin Blanc. The 2021 from the Gresswell Vineyard scored 19.5/20 points, the highest for any Washington Chenin Blanc reviewed so far. The 2022 Old Vine bottling will be reviewed in the May issue.

Efeste - This Woodinville winery's "Adrienne" bottling is always an exemplary Chenin Blanc. The 2022 from the Columbia Crest Vineyard scored 19/20 points in the April issue.

Convergence Zone - Scott Greenberg's winery in North Bend produces attractive "Sunbreak" Chenin Blancs from the Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain, an ideal high elevation site. The 2022 vintage will be reviewed in the May issue.

Loire Valley Chenin Blancs

Here are some Chenin Blancs we've tasted recently.

2021 Bernard Fouquet Vouvray, "Cuvée de Silex" ($24.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This features a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromasmof pear, white peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, jasmine, meadow flowers, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and silicate minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and hazelnuts, followed by a juicy fruit acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2021 Champalou Vouvray ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses a brilliant gold color and a floral nose of pear, nectarine, grapefruit, pear blossoms, wisteria, jasmine, clover and whiffs of spiced white incense. The flavors, aa well, are appealing, with white fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins, nectarine stones and riverside minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and crème fraice, followed by s crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

Domaine Huet is one of the best producers of Vouvray with regular and single vineyard bottlings ranging from dry (Sec) to sweet (Molleux). The wines are well fruited, persistently minerally, with superb balance. They age well.

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec, Clos du Bourg ($47 - The Thief) - This exhibits a brilliant lemon-gold color and perfumed aromas of Asian pear-apple, golden peach, honeydew melon. grapefruit, apple blossoms, sweet pea flowers, clover and yellow incense. The flavors are well extracted, with yellow fruits dancing on the palate, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, peach stones and limestone minerals. On the back, the wine takes a vigorous turn with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel, followed by a lingering, faintly honeyed yet dry, persistently minerally finish. 19+/20 points.

With finely fruited, high acid wines, the Loire Valley is also especially suited for making sparkling wines from Chenin Blanc. Here is one from across the river from Vouvray.

N.V. La Taille aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Brut Traditionnel ($34.90 - Foodscape) - This displays a brilliant gold color, streaming beads and perfumed aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, cantaloupe, grapefruit, pear blossoms, sweet pea flowers, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and brisk, marked by grape and pear skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with poire and pêche liqueurs, CO2 and touches of nougat and lees on the way to a fairly honeyed yet true Brut finish. 19/20 points.

So what makes Chenin Blanc ideal for spring and summer? It's the freshness and bright fruit acidity that makes them a joy to drink, especially with the fruits and vegetables and spring chicken and seafood of the season.

 

  1. Looking Ahead to May and November
  2. The 2021 Beaujolais and Maconnais
  3. New Zealand and French Wines
  4. What's in the Points?