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Allen C. Shoup Passes Away

Yesterday, November 9, I was saddened to learn that Allen Chester Shoup, former head of Land Shadows and previously of Chateau Ste Michelle had passed away on November 7. He was a giant in the Washington Wine industry for decades. He began his wine career in Modesto, California as a marketing director for E & J Gallo Wines in the mid-seventies before becoming Chateau Ste Michelle's vice president of marketing in 1980. He went on to become president and CEO of Stimson Lane Vineyards and Estates from 1983 to 2000, expanding the portfolio to include other Washington wineries, including Northstar and Spring Valley, and California wineries, including Villa Mt. Eden and Conn Creek. International joint ventures included Col Solare with Piero Antinori and Dr Ernst Loosen for Eroica Riesling. After retiring from Stimson-Lane, he went on to found Long Shadows which brought together international winemakers to craft world class wines at a state of the art winery near Walla Walla. He was succeeded by his stepson, Dane Narbaitz as CEO of Long Shadows. 

I remember Allen Shoup as being a warm and friendly person, always ready to help. He was highly innovative, helping elevate Washington state wines, including participation in the creation of the Washington Wine Commission and the Auction of Washington Wines. I met with him at numerous Chateau Ste Michelle and Long Shadows tasting events. He will be missed but not forgotten.

French Wines Recently Tasted

We love Gigondas. Being Grenache dominated wines, they are a delight to drink and are food friendly. Here are three that we have tried recently.

2019 Crous St. Martin Gigondas, "Les Espalières" ($29.99 - Esquin) - Comprised of 80% Grenache with 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this offers a deep ruby color and rich aromas of strawberry, cranberry, red currant, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, lavender, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with medium bodied but substantial red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and Montmirial minerals. The back reveals pressed berries, roasted nuts, fraise and cerise liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a juicy ripe  tannin finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine la Boussïere Gigondas ($44.99 - Esquin) - This displays a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of wild raspberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, sweet tobacco, lavender, olive, charcuterie, wild violets and incense. The flavors are bold and mouth filling, replete with black licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. On the back, the wine intensifies with macerated berries, roasted nuts, creme de cassis, grilled meats and charcoal, followed by a lingering vigorous fruit acid lifted finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine du Bousquet Gigondas, Reserve ($54.99 - Esquin) - Nearly opaque ruby-crimson colored, this emits rich, smoky aromas of blackberry, mountain blueberry, brambly currant, black roses, tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are deep, almost massive, with loads of dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French press and Montmirial minerals. The wine deepens on the back with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, creme de cassis, grilled meats and charcoal, followed by a lengthy firm yet super ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

Most of the wines of Châteauneuf du Pape are red, with less than ten percent of the production being white, from multiple varieties. Here are two whites we recommend highly.

2020 Brotte Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Les Hauts de Barville" ($40.99 - Esquin) - This is unusual in that it is 100% Roussanne. It shows a brilliant gold color and semi-tropical aromas of Asian pear-apple, white peach, passion fruit, lemon custard, apple blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and butternut. The flavors are deliciously ripe and juicy, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and mas minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of butterscotch and crème fraiche, followed by a lingering precise fruit acid finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($44.99 - Esquin) - This is a typical CdP Blanc in that it is composed of 20% each of Roussanne, Clairette, Picpoul. Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc. It features a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, Casaba melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysucje, jasmine, lemongrass and yellow incense. The flavors are bright and vivid, with yellow and white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and mas minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel on a precise lengthy fruit acid balanced finish. 19+/20 points.

And here's a White Burgundy that's outstanding and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. It comes from Santenay, near the southern end of the Côte d'Or, and could pass fora Chassagne Montrachet, just to the north.

2020 Justin Girardin Santenay Blanc, "Les Terrasse de Bievaux" ($36.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this possesses floral aromas of pear-apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria and wet stone. The flavors are vivid, pure Chardonnay, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and terraced slope granitic minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat, crème fraiche and grapefruit peel on the lingering, finely fruited finish. 19/20 points.

 

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Harvest 2022 a Wrap

As of this writing (November 3) the 2022 wine grape harvest is practically finished. Yesterday, many vineyards made their last picks and today, a few more will be making their final push before cold, rainy weather returns tomorrow. Winemakers are generally happy with the grapes they got (see below for the September 29 Blog). Because of the delayed harvest - about three weeks - due to the cold, rainy spring, there will be some challenges, especially with the late maturing Cabernet Sauvignon, but not as much so as in 2010 and 2011.

Looking Ahead to December

Over the past few days, I have been starting work on the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines. We were in Spokane two weeks ago and there will be a report on the Barrister, Robert Karl and Winescape wineries (see the Blog posting of October 25 for a preview). Tomorrow is the start of Fall Release Weekend in Walla Walla and we have appointments to visit Abeja, Dossier, Deux Soldats, Reynvaan, Va Piano and Foundry Vineyards. Then next week, we will be in Woodinville to visit DeLille Cellars, Sparkman, Lauren Ashton, Tinte Cellars and Adams Bench. In mid December we will be publishing our list of Top Wines of 2022, wines scoring 20/20 and 19.5/20 points and of Best Buys of 2022. wines scoring 19/20 points for $40 or less and wines scoring 18.5/20 points for $25 or less. 

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We love Rosé wines, not just for spring and summer, but for fall and winter. Here are some we've had recently, some bubbly as well as still ones.

Sparkling Rosés

N.V. Chateau Ste Michelle Sparking Brut Rosé ($18) - We had this at the Nordstrom Grill in Spokane last week. It showed a brilliant copper-tinged pink color, streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, orange peel and cherry blossoms. The flavors were fresh and vibrant, with pink fruits that were accented by grape skins, cherry stones and light minerality. The back picked up red liqueurs andorange peel, followed by a dry finish. Super value when purchased for $14.99. 18/20 points.

N.V. Chateau Ste Michelle "Luxe" Sparkling Brut Rosé ($25) - As "Luxe" suggests, this is an upscale version. It shows a brilliant pink-tinged copper color, streaming bubbles and lovely aromas of strawberry, cherry, blood orange, cherry blossoms. pink lilac and orange incense. The flavors are bright and exquisite, with orange and pink fruits that are intermixed with grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. On the back, the wine is enlivened by fraise and cerise liqueurs, orange peel and CO2, followed by a dry Brut finish. Purchased for $18.99. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Domaine Tissot Crémant du Jura ($30 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This is high elevation Crémant from the foothills of the Alps. Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 20% each of Poulsard and Trousseau (indigenous grapes), it shows a copper-pink color and fragrant aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, cherry blossoms and orange peel. The flavors are exquisitely wrought, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and alpine minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and orange peel on the way to a CO2 enlivened bone dry (zero dosage) finish. 18.5+/20 points.

N.V. Luc Belaire "Luxe" Brut Rosé ($32.98 - Super 1) - This French Sparkling Rosé displays a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and floral aromas of strawberry, cherry, orange, cherry and orange blossoms and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are deftly wrought, with gently pressed fruits, cherry stones and orange peel. The back is enlivened by bright fruit acids and CO2, followed by an exquisitely balanced dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco di Sobara Secco ($22 - The Thief) - From Emilia-Romanga and made from the Lambrusco grape, this displays a brilliant copper-crimson color, streaming bubbles and aromas of strawberry, cherry, pomegranate and blood orange, with scents of roses, lavender and orange incense. The flavors are brisk and mouth filling, enlivened by grape skins and CO2. On the back, the wine is brightened by cherry liqueur, pomegranate seeds and orange peel on the dry, zingy moderate alcohol (11.5%) finish. 18.5/20 points.

Still Rosés

2021 A to Z Wineworks Oregon Rosé ($17) - This attractively-styled, like the flower label. Sangiovese based, it shows a brilliant copper-tinged pink color and floral aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pomegranate, cherry blossoms, pink lilac and orange peel. The flavors are bright and lively, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up red liqueurs and a twist of orange peel on the crisp, well-fruited finish. Lynn" 3/3 stars. 18.5/20 points. 

2021 Simi "Editor's Collection" Rosé, Sonoma County ($19) - Composed of 91% Pinot Noir, 7% Chardonnay and other varieties, this is a charming Rosé. It shows a pink-tinged copper color and attractive aromas of strawberry, watermelon, blood orange, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of peach stone and saline minerals. The back picks up fraise and pêche liqueurs and melon rind, followed by a juicy acid finish. Purchased for $30.99 at Safeway (excessive middleman markups?). Lynn: 3 of 3 stars. If you find it for under $20, buy it. 18.5/20 points.

2021 La Vielle Ferme Rosé ($14) - This French Rosé delivers a lot for its modest price ($9.99 at Safeway). It offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry and orange peel, with scents of pink roses, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of grape skins and cherry stones. The back picks up fraise liqueur and orange peel on the way to a brisk, juicy dry finish. 18/20 points.

2021 Osatau Rioja Rosado ($17 - The Thief) - From the Rioja Alavesa District, this organic Rosé offers a copper-pink color and floral aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, orange peel, cherry and orange blossoms, lavender and orange incense. The flavors are deft and nicely extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Sierra Cantabria minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with cherry liqueur and orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish.  Super value. 18.5/20 points.

2021 Conde Valdemar Rioja Rosé ($25) - Composed of 92% Garnacha and 8% Mazuelo, this offers a brilliant copper-tinged pink color and floral aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pomegranate, red currant, pink roses, gardenia and orange peel. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with pink fruits that are accented by grape s=kins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with strawberry and currant liqueurs, pomegranate seeds and orange peel, followed by a lingering dry finish. "I can't get over it,! says Lynn - 3 of 3 stars. 18.5+/20 points. 

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Last weekend, Friday and Saturday, we drove up to Spokane where we visited three wineries which have turned out some impressive releases. Here's a rundown of what we tasted. Full reviews will be in the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

Barrister 

This winery is owned by two lawyers, Greg Lipsker and Michael White, and the assistant winemaker is Tyler Walters. We tasted a collection of excellent 2019's and 2018's at the winery on Railroad Avenue in Downtown Spokane. The winery produces a consistent non vintage "Rough Justice" blend ($25) and the XVL version is engaging with considerable depth and character (18.5/20 points). The 2019 Wahluke Slope Carmenère (19/20 points), 2018 Dionysus Vineyard Petit Verdot (19/20 points) and 2018 Summit View Walla Walla Valley Tempranillo (19/20 points) were outstanding as well.

Robert Karl

Joe and Rebecca Gunselman's Robert Karl Cellars is located on Pacific Avenue. There, we tasted four new reds with Rebecca.  A 2019 Phinny Hill Cabernet Franc which represents good value ($30 - 18.5/20 points), an outstanding 2019 Cabernet dominated Inspiration Red (19/20 points), a 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (19/20 points) and the 2017 Gunselman Bench Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet (19/20 points).

Winescape

This winery is located in the bucolic Southeast Spokane Valley. It is owned and run by retired Washington State University Medical School Professors, Patricia and Phil Butterfield. There, we tasted three red: 2018 Columbia Valley Merlot (18.5/20 points), 2018 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (18.5/20 points) and the Cabernet (59%) and Merlot (29%) dominated red that showed lots of depth and flavor (19/20 points). 

 

 

 

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Winemaker Comments on My Reviews

In the process of producing each issue of the Review of Washington Wines, I email copy of the reviews to the winemakers to check for accuracy. The replies I receive often have comments on my reviews. Here are some that I received about reviews that will be in the November issue which goes on line October 25.

From the Mongata Winery on the South Fork of the Walla, I got this from Scott and Vicki Nokleby, Founders and Partners: "For both Scott and I, reading and experiencing this has been fantastical. We wouldn't want to change or add a single thing in this beautiful music to our ears. We love and appreciate the thoughts and so many awesome textured words.I want to open a bottle of each right this minute!" Vicki added, "...how amazing to see the sensory experience you drew up for the Resurgent vineyard place of wines."

I replied, "Thanks for your kind words. For me, the most rewarding aspect of being a wine writer is making discoveries of new wineries that are dedicated to quality such as yours."

Here are comments from a couple of other winemakers.

Rich Funk, Saviah Cellars: "Your wine descriptions sound like a beautifully written poem, thanks for the excellent write up of our first Tempranillo from The Stones Speak vineyard."

Devyani Gupta, Valdemar Estates: "Thank you so much for visiting us this weekend. I love your copy on the 2019 Klipsun Cabernet. Many of your descriptors match a rather daring food pairing we will be doing for fall release dinner (spoiler - it includes olive...and chocolate!)."

 

 

 

  1. A Visit to the Mongata Winery
  2. Wine News & A Medley of International Wines
  3. Harvest 2022 Update & Looking Ahead to November
  4. A Medley of European Wines