Chenin Blanc: Ideal for Spring & Summer
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Chenin Blanc is one of the most undervalued grape varieties, one that delivers wines of high quality to price ratios. It is a variety that originated in France's Loire Valley. a crossing of Sauvignon Blanc and Savagnin (a grape also grown in Jura). It is a grape suitable for cooler climates, producing wines of higher acidity, yet ripe and well fruited. The best-known Chenin Blancs are those of Vouvray which is situated east of Tours on the Loire river. although significant plantings are located in Montlouis (across the river from Vouvray) and Coteaux du Layon. South Africa grows much Chenin Blanc, introduced by French Huguenots. In Washington State, much Chenin Blanc was planted in the 1970's, but the popularity waned as demand for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc increased.
In Washington State, especially in the Yakima Valley, the microclimates in cooler sites mirror those of the Loire Valley, making Chenin Blanc a highly suitable white grape. The alluvial and flood minerals also add to the wines' characteristics. There are not many practitioners of Chenin Blanc in Washington. Here are ones that make Chenin Blanc on a regular basis.
L'Ecole No 41 - This winery started producing a Chenin Blanc in the early 'eighties to emulate the Vouvrays that were cherished by co-founder Jean Ferguson. At $18 a bottle, it is a bargain. See the May 2022 issue of the Review of Washington Wines for the 2021 (18.5/20 points). The 2022 vintage will be reviewed in June.
Orr Wines - Erica Orr is a strong advocate of Chenin Blanc. The 2021 from the Gresswell Vineyard scored 19.5/20 points, the highest for any Washington Chenin Blanc reviewed so far. The 2022 Old Vine bottling will be reviewed in the May issue.
Efeste - This Woodinville winery's "Adrienne" bottling is always an exemplary Chenin Blanc. The 2022 from the Columbia Crest Vineyard scored 19/20 points in the April issue.
Convergence Zone - Scott Greenberg's winery in North Bend produces attractive "Sunbreak" Chenin Blancs from the Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain, an ideal high elevation site. The 2022 vintage will be reviewed in the May issue.
Loire Valley Chenin Blancs
Here are some Chenin Blancs we've tasted recently.
2021 Bernard Fouquet Vouvray, "Cuvée de Silex" ($24.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This features a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromasmof pear, white peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, jasmine, meadow flowers, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and silicate minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and hazelnuts, followed by a juicy fruit acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Champalou Vouvray ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses a brilliant gold color and a floral nose of pear, nectarine, grapefruit, pear blossoms, wisteria, jasmine, clover and whiffs of spiced white incense. The flavors, aa well, are appealing, with white fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins, nectarine stones and riverside minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and crème fraice, followed by s crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
Domaine Huet is one of the best producers of Vouvray with regular and single vineyard bottlings ranging from dry (Sec) to sweet (Molleux). The wines are well fruited, persistently minerally, with superb balance. They age well.
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec, Clos du Bourg ($47 - The Thief) - This exhibits a brilliant lemon-gold color and perfumed aromas of Asian pear-apple, golden peach, honeydew melon. grapefruit, apple blossoms, sweet pea flowers, clover and yellow incense. The flavors are well extracted, with yellow fruits dancing on the palate, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, peach stones and limestone minerals. On the back, the wine takes a vigorous turn with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel, followed by a lingering, faintly honeyed yet dry, persistently minerally finish. 19+/20 points.
With finely fruited, high acid wines, the Loire Valley is also especially suited for making sparkling wines from Chenin Blanc. Here is one from across the river from Vouvray.
N.V. La Taille aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Brut Traditionnel ($34.90 - Foodscape) - This displays a brilliant gold color, streaming beads and perfumed aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, cantaloupe, grapefruit, pear blossoms, sweet pea flowers, clover and white incense. The flavors are bright and brisk, marked by grape and pear skins, peach stones and chalky minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with poire and pêche liqueurs, CO2 and touches of nougat and lees on the way to a fairly honeyed yet true Brut finish. 19/20 points.
So what makes Chenin Blanc ideal for spring and summer? It's the freshness and bright fruit acidity that makes them a joy to drink, especially with the fruits and vegetables and spring chicken and seafood of the season.
Looking Ahead to May and November
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Looking Ahead to May
With the April issue of the Review of Washington Wines now on line, we are working on the May issue which goes on line April 25. In it will be Walla Walla Valley Spring Releases from Rotie Cellars, Valdemar Estates, Kinhaven, Gramercy Cellars, Vital and Brook & Bull. On April 9, we will drive to Red Mountain to taste the highly acclaimed wines of Liminal with winemaker Chris Peterson. There will be more 2022 Rosés plus new Best Buys.
Coming Up in November: The First Annual Grenache Festival
Put Friday, November 23rd on your calendars. That will be the First Annual Grenache Festival in Walla Walla at the Corliss Motor Company, starting at 5 pm with a seated comparative seminar, followed at 7 pm by live music, food, plenty of open Grenache wines and tons of fun.
For the seminar, "Black Wine Guy," MJ Towler will host a 12-wine, seated, comparative Grenache seminar and tasting, with introduction by Rand Sealey - to include 75%+ Grenache wines. After the seminar, food will be provided by AK Mercado and Fromageries WW and music from Stephen Malkmus (of Pavement) and another guest. For the party portion, Grenache, Grenache Rosé and Grenache Blanc wines will be poured.
For more information, go to www.grenachefest.com. Tickets are now available for purchase.
Two Superb Spanish Wines from Bodegas Valdemar
When we were at Valdemar Estates to taste the Spring Releases, we were also presented three Spanish wines from the Walla Walla winery's parent company in the Rioja region of Spain. They are phenomenal. They will be released to club members in April and to the public at a later date.
2021 Bodegas Valdemar Alto Cantabria Vinedo Singular - Produced from the Viura grape, this presents a brilliant gold color and striking aromas of pear, peach, Casaba melon, lime, pear tree blossoms, lemongrass, sweet pea flowers, and green incense. On the palate, the flavors are crisp yet viscous, with notes of pear skins, melon rind and Sierra Cantabria minerals. The resonance and complexity continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs, nougat, Marcona almonds, creme fraiche and toasty oak, followed by a seemingly endless rich, yet structured finish. The best Spanish white I've ever tasted. 20/20 points.
2018 Bodegas Valdemar Gargantilla Garnacha - This is world class Grenache from the Valdemar Estate Vineyard. It exhibits a deep ruby color and sultry aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, orange peel, crushed black roses, pipe tobacco, Spanish lavender, wild violets and stick incense. The flavors are simultaneously opulent and deeply structured, with layers of black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, 80% cacao, chicory coffee and earth. The penetration continues on the back with roasted berries, toffee, recurring orange peel and Marcona almonds, followed by a lingering, hedonistic sweet-dry tannin finish. Even more compelling than the super 2017 reviewed in the 02/17 posting below. 20/20 points.
Also see the 02/17 posting for the 2019 Balcon de Pilots Maturana which was also poured on our latest visit.
The 2021 Beaujolais and Maconnais
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- Written by Rand Sealey
The 2021 vintage in the Beaujolais and Maconnais regions of Burgundy is shaping up to be an exceptional one. While Spring frosts reduced crops in some areas, the summer and harvest seasons proceeded normally and the quality is high. We've tasted several and found them to be excellent.
Beaujolais
Gamay is the principal grape of Beaujolais. In 1395, Philippe the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, issued an edict forbidding the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy, pushing that grape further south, below the Maconnais. The wines of Beaujolais have been considered lighter bodied, but today bigger and more serious wines are being produced, especially from the Crus.
2021 Domaine Dupeuble Pere & Fils Beaujolais Blanc ($22.99 - wine.com) - In Beaujolais, only a small amount of white wine is produced from Chardonnay. This one shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Asian pear-apple, white peach, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, peach stones, citrus and stony minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and grapefruit peel on the way to a nicely juice finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais-Villages, "Lantigné" ($18.99 - wine.com) - This is an amiable Beaujolais. Cherry red colored, it possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, red currant, lilac, and orange peel. The flavors are medium bodied yet mouth filling, with generous red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, milk chocolate, orange pekoe tea and loamy earth. On the back, the wine fills out with fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and recurring orange peel, followed by a pleasingly supple tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, "Grands Cras" ($24.99 - wine.com) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a deep cherry-ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, myrtile, cassis, crushed roses, brush, wild violets and incense. The flavors are thick and generous, yet focused, with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs, followed by a solid moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, Côte du Py ($27.99 - wine.com) - This comes from a premier vineyard. Deep ruby colored, it emits enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, lilac, forest brush and sweet incense. The flavors are mouth filling, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with cherry stones, licorice, cocoa, black tea and blue stones. The pentration continues on the back with framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs, roasted nuts and a bit of soft charcoal, followed by a lingering ripe, chewy tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2021 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie, "Les Cocottes" ($32.99 - wine.com) - Because of Spring frost, this wine was made from a friend's vineyard. It shows a purplish color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, myrtiles, cassis, crushed rose petals, purple lilac, arboreal carpet and stick incense. The flavors are generous yet deep and mouth encompassing, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, herbal tea and granitic minerals. The back fills out with pressed berries, roasted pecans, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2021 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly ($34.99 - wine.com) - This an admirable Cru Beaujolais. It displays a brilliant ruby-crimson color and perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, cranberry, red currant, crushed rose petals, lilac, violets and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with lavish red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, chamomile tea and granitic minerals. The appeal continues on the back with gently pressed berries, hazelnuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs, all leading into a lingering, finely fruited finish. A "vin de plaisir." 19/20 points.
Mâconnais
Mâconnais is the birthplace of the Chardonnay grape. There is a village in the heart of the region named Chardonnay. The soils are varied, granitic, calcareous and slatey. The sun drenched slopes produce pleasing, fruity wines.
2021 Domaine Perraud Mâcon-Villages, "De la Grande Burette" ($19.99 - wine.com) - This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear-apple, white peach, witht notes of apple blossoms, acacia flowers and yellow incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, pure Chardonnay, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and stony minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and lemon zest, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Les Pierres Grises Saint Veran ($22.99 - wine.com) - Saint Veran is situated adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé. This one shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and enticing aromas of pear-apple, white peach and citrus, with scents of apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors, as well, are captivating, with white fruits that are intermixed with grape and pear skins and limestone ("grey stones"). The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and a touch of nougat and a twist of grapefruit peel, followed by a brisk finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 André Bonhomme Virê Clessé, "Les Pierres Blanches" ($27.99 - wine.com) - Viré Clessé is one of the best climats in the heart of the Mâconnais. This one displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, pear blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria and yellow incense. The pure Chardonnay flavors are exquisitely wrought, with yellow fruits that are interwoven with pear skins, peach stones and white stones ("pierres blanches"). The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and crème fraiche, followed by a lingering, silky, finely fruited finish. 19/20 points.
2021 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé ($29.99 - wine.com) - This highly respected house has turned out a lovely Pouilly-Fuissé. Brilliant gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of pear-apple, peach, pear blossoms, wisteria, honeysuckle and flintstone. The flavors are deliciously ripe and mouth filling, pure Chardonnay, with notes of grape and pear skins and granitic minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of nougat and crème fraiche, followed by a lingering, precise finish. 19/20 points.
New Zealand and French Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs
New Zealand is best known for its Sauvignon Blancs. The cool maritime climate and stony soils are particularly suitable for this variety. Here are a couple we recommend that are excellent values.
2022 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($16.99 - Safeway) - Marlborough is on the South Island of New Zealand and is well-known for its Sauvignon Blancs. This one shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of green pear, melon, kiwi and lime with scents of pear blossoms, jasmine, lemongrass and wet stone. The flavors are brisk, yet ripe and juicy, with yellow and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up pear liqueur, melon rind and a twist of lime zest on the way to a bracing yet fruited finish. A bit crisper than the below wine, it calls for seafood. 18.5/20 points.
2022 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($17.99 - Safeway) - Kim Crawford is a popular brand in the U.S. It displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, white peach, melon, passion fruit, kiwi and lime, with scents of pear blossoms, jasmine, cut grass and stone. The flavors are a bit more tropical than the above wine, with yellow and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and melon rind. The vibrancy continues on the back with white liqueurs and a twist of lime zest on the brisk, fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
French Wines
2020 Domaine Les Pins Bourgeuil, "Les Rochettes" ($21.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - The reds of Bourgeil in the Loire Valley are produced from Cabernet Franc. This one offers a deep-ruby-crimson color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed rose, mulberry, tobacco, herb potpourri and stick incense. The flavors are generous and mouth pleasing, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate. caffé au lait and riverside earth and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with framboise and cerise liqueurs and plum preserves, followed by a ripe, chewy moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Domaine Maurice Ecard Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Serpentières ($30 - lastbottle.com) - Back in the 1980's, we visited this Côte de Beaune property. This vintage shows a brick red color and perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, orange peel, crushed rose petals, lilac, sandalwood and orange incense. The flavors medium bodied yet deliciously full and expansive, pure Pinot Noir, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, Swiss chocolate, Earl Grey tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed fruits, hazelnuts, fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a lingering moderate tannin finish. "Delicious, wow!" says Lynn. Super one-shot deal at half the normal price. 19/20 points.
2019 Famille Perrin Vinsobres, "Les Cornes" ($25.99 -Safeway) This South Rhone red is composed of 50% each of Grenache and Syrah. It shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, black roses, garrigue, hillside brush, olive and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with ample yet deep and focused red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate, roasted coffee beans and stony minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and soft charcoal, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Lirac Wines
Lirac is situated across the Rhône River from Chateauneuf du Pape to whose wines these are similar. The reds are predominately Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvèdre. The whites are combinations of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Roussane. They can be excellent values.
2020 Domaine Lafond Lirac Blanc, "Roc Epine" ($22.99 - wine.com) - This blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne and 20% Viognier offers a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of Bosc pear, apricot, grapefruit, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and sweet white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with brisk white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, apricot stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire William liqueur and grapefruit peel on the nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine Lafond Lirac Rouge, "Roc Epine" ($22.99 - wine.com) - This 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah combination shows a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cranberries, black currants, crushed roses, garrigue, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and stick incense, followed by a ripe tannin finish, lifted by vigorous fruit acids. Delivers a lot for the price. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine de la Modorée Lirac, "La Reine des Bois" ($44.99 - wine.com) - This is the top cuvée from a top producer. Composed of one-third each of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it displays a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of raspberry, blueberry, brambly currant, crushed roses, tobacco, garrigue, orange peel, olive and spiced incense. The flavors are bold and mouth-filling, yet refined, with layers of black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and riverside mineral,s. On the back, the wine invigorates with framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs, roasted nuts and ground charcoal, followed by a spiced (nutmeg, clove) firm yet ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2019 Domaine de la Modorée Lirac, "La Dame Rousse" ($31.99 - wine.com) - This 50/50 Grenache, Syrah combination offers a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, lavender, lilac, olive and sweet spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, combining the suppleness of the Grenache with robustness of the Syrah, with notes of licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs, blueberry preserves and roasted nuts, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2018 Alain Jaume Lirac, Domaine du Clos de Sixte ($26.99 - wine.com) - A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, this displays a deep ruby color and an enticing nose of raspberry, cranberry, black currant, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender, sage, thyme and incense. The flavors are ripe and mouth filling, with red fruits that are marked by licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha and soft charcoal followed by a savory moderate tannin and acid finish. A good choice for those liking a smoother styled Rhone. 18.5/20 points.
See the 02/17 posting below for the 2021 Domaine de la Modorée Lirac Blanc and the 2019 Domaine de Marcoux Lirac Rouge.
What's in the Points?
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- Written by Rand Sealey
A few days ago, I received and email from Todd and Carrie Alexander with scores for their Holocene Wines 2021 Memorialis and 2021 Apocrypha Oregon Pinot Noirs from Paul Gregutt in the Northwest Wine Guide and my Review of Washington Wines (erroneously called Report of Washington Wines). Both wines scored 95/100 points by Paul Gregutt and 19.5/20 points by myself. These are very high scores, indicating wines of really high quality. Of the Memorialis, Paul writes, "Wow - a lot going on here." I wrote, "This is a striking Pinot Noir..." Of the Apocrypha, Paul wrote"...firmly rooted in black and blue fruits, supple yet forceful..." I wrote "This is an exquisite yet beautifully structured Pinot..." My review were detailed (in the March issue of the Review of Washington Wines) and Paul's shorter (looking like the reviews he used to write for The Wine Enthusiast).
One interesting thing about these reviews is how they are different when using the 100 point and University of California Davis 20 point systems. Below is an article I wrote in 2017 about the 20 point system and what it means. Another interesting thing is that Paul's reviews are available on paulgwine.com without scores and on Paul Gregutt's Northwest Wine Guide (on paulgregutt.substack.com) with scores. When Paul started his own review publication, he reviewed without scores. But with subscriber demand, he made the reviews available with scores. I have always reviewed with scores using the UC Davis 20 point system which antedates the 100 point system. See below.
The University of California, Davis 20 point wine scoring system was developed by the Enology faculty in the 1940's and '50's in order to arrive at a consistent system for qualitatively evaluating wines. The system was standard until the advent of the Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator 100 point systems. The Davis System comprises of the following points assigned to wines:
Clarity - 2 points
Color - 2 points
Bouquet - 4 points
Total Acidity - 1 point
Sweetness - 1 point
Body/Texture - 2 points
Flavor/Taste - 2 points
Acescency (Bitterness) - 1 point
Astringency - 1 point
Overall Quality - 4 points
Half points may be assigned.
The two most important attributes are Bouquet (4 points) and Overall Quality (4 points). All other points indicate appearance and balance.
Bouquet definitions:
Distinct varietal characteristics, balanced bouquet - 4 points
Simply fruity characteristics, some bouquet - 3 points
Underdeveloped nose, closed, non-apparent - 1 point
Defective nose, off odors - 0 points
Overall Quality definitions:
Wines of "noble" quality with distinct and distinguishing character - 4 points
Wines that are "charming" with some special character - 3 points
Wines that are typical of the varietal / type and age - 2 points
Wines with no exceptional characteristics but not flawed - 1 point
Wines with no exceptional characteristics and possess flaws - 0 points
Both the two above Holocene Pinot Noir score 4 points for bouquet ("Distinct varietal characteristics, balanced bouquet") and 3.5 points for overall quality (near "noble" quality). Combined with the other assigned points they each add up to 19.5/20 points. This is a different scoring than a 100 point one. As I have stated before, do not multiply the 20 point score by 5 to get an equivalent score. These are not equivalent systems.
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