A few days ago, Doug and Jan Roskelley gave me samples of three Cabernet Sauvignons from different blocks of the Windrow Vineyard in the southern part of the Walla Walla Valley, a few miles northwest of Milton-Freewater. These wines are to be poured at the winery's winemaker's dinner at the Marcus Whitman on Saturday, May 5. They will be initially for Club members only. Here are my tasting notes, together with Doug Roskelley's descriptions of the vineyard blocks.

2008 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvigon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyards, Hill Block ($53)

"Hill Block is the youngest of our Cab plantings (1998) and is 3.4 acres on the side of the bench that Windrow sits on. Exposures vary from due south, swinging to west and then back to southwest. Trellised to VSP [vertical shoot positioning]. The soil (loess and silt loam) is shallow, having been scoured by the wind and has limited water holding capacity. Average yield has been 2.8 tons per acre."

My notes: Blended with 6% Cabernet Franc, this wine shows a deep ruby color and intriguing aromas of roasted blackberries, black cherries, cassis, dried roses, pipe tobacco, eucalyptus and sultry oriental perfumes. The dark fruit flavors are wrapped around a full-bore core, underlain with bittersweet chocolate, black licorice, dark roast coffee bean and scorched loess minerals. The back reveals sensations of macerated berries, cherry liqueur, roasted nuts and fruit confit, with notes of mocha, cinnamon bark, toasty oak, and glycerin. The strength extends on to the long, ripe, concentrated sweet-dry tannin finish. 118 cases produced. 19.5/20 points.

2008 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyards, Plateau Block ($55)

"Plateau was planted in 1996 and sits on top of the bench and is planted on fairly level ground running southeast to northwest. Acreage is 3.8 acres. The soil is deeper having deposits that resulted in part from the soil that was scoured from the hillside. Trained to the Scott Hendry trellis design (4 cordons, two above two). Average yield has been 2.9 tons per acre."

My notes: Also combined with 6% Cabernet Franc, this displays a deep ruby color and smoky aromas of blackberry, cherry, damson plum and freshly brewed coffee, with scents of mulberry, crushed rose, cigar box, black pepper and spiced incense. The roasted dark fruits are mouth-encompassing, with notes of dark chocolate, black licorice, French roast and silty earth minerals. The intensity continues on the back with notes of macerated berries, dried cherries, roasted walnuts, cocoa powder, cinnamon bark and ground clove, all gliding effortlessly into a lingering finish, marked by dryish tannins and spicy oak, juxtaposed by a touch of lanolin. 185 cases produced. 19.5/20 points.

2008 Tero Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyards, Old Block ($57)

"Old Block was part of the original planting of Seven Hills dating back to 1981. It sits on fairly level ground and is planted N-S using the Scott Hendry trellis design (4 cordons, two above two). It is 8.6 acres and average yield has been 2.6 tons per acre. Soils are primarily loess with various depth and excellent drainage."

My notes: Again blended with 6% Cabernet Franc, this exhibits a deep purplish ruby color and aromas of wild blackberry, huckleberry, and black currant, with scents of attar of rose, mulberry, and a hint of mint. The flavors are a bit more expansive than the other two, yet deep and pervasive, interwoven with notes of Belgian chocolate, black licorice and ground roasted coffee beans. On the back, sensations of macerated berries and dried cherries emerge along with tones of toasted hazelnuts, mocha, graphite, light spices (coriander, cardamom) on a deftly oaked finish with near-perfectly integrated tannins and acids. 110 cases produced. 19.5/20 points.

These three wines are superb expositions of terroir-driven South Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and are highly recommended. I urge you to join the Tero Estates wine club so you may be sure to obtain these wines.

State Liquor Stores Auction Winners Announced

The big news yesterday was the Washington State Liquor Contol Board's announcement of the winning bids on the state's 167 liquor stores which netted $30.75 million dollars, nearly double the early estimates of 16 million. Apparently, the bidding was all about location!, location!, location! with the highest bids going for the choicest locations and the lowest for the least desirable ones. One of the high bid stores was the one in Walla Walla on South 9th, which went for $340,000. It will be the only free-standing liquor store in Walla Walla County. The only other liquor stores are small contract stores in Waitsburg and Dayton (in Columbia County). The Walla Walla store, with much more available floor space for liquor and wine, will be able to offer a far wider selection than Super 1 across the street, or even Wal-Mart a few miles south. It looks like a smart investment.

While the winning bidders will be gearing up for the openings of the newly-privatized liquor stores, other retailers are also getting ready for June 1. I was at Esquin a week ago, and saw that the shipping room in back was being turned into what will become the spirits department, in order to meet the 10,000 square foot floor space requirement. In West Seattle, Trader Joe's has opened a new store on Fauntleroy Way, with space already reserved for spirits.

A correction: An artilcle in this evening's Walla Walla Union Bulletin states the bid for the Walla Walla liquor store as $180,400. The $340,000 price was reported in one of the Seattle TV stations' news website.