A Visit to Seattle and Woodinville

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 16 June 2022

On June 8th, Lynn and I drove over to Seattle from Walla Walla. Below are the noteworthy wine related activities we did.

After getting medical appointments over with, we had dinner at Assaggio on Thursday. The restaurant is owned by Mauro Golmarvi, our former neighbor in West Seattle and our current neighbor in Walla Walla (across Graybill Pond). The dinner was delicious, Ling cod, cooked to perfection accompanied by our favorite Italian white, the 2020 Antinori Bolgheri Vermentino (see the 10 May Blog posting below for a review).

On Friday, we drove over to Woodinville to visit three wineries. At JM Cellars on Bramble Bump, I tasted some fine new releases with owner-winemaker John Bigelow. We loved the 2021 Cinsault Rosé and 2019 Syrah. At Efeste, we had another fine Rosé from the Oldfield Estate Vineyard. The "Big Papa" Cabernet was brawny as usual. DeLille Cellars had a gorgeous 2021 Roussanne and a striking combination of 70% Malbec. These and other wines to be reviewed in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines, on line June 24.

That evening, we had dinner with Lakeside School classmates Don F lynn and Dave Whitridge, a delicious bouillibase with some Rosés I brought. The next day, we had a Class of 1962 60th Reunion lunch with 14 other classmates at the Seattle Yacht Club. Salmon was served and I provided a Grenache themed selection of wines which were happily enjoyed.

That Saturday afternoon, we stopped by Esquin Wine & Spirits tp pick up some wines including some new 2021 Rosés and 2019 Rhone wines. There was a Burgundy tasting and we picked up a 2019 Macon-Venze and a 2018 Nuitin-Beaunoy Bourgogn Rouge, Cote d'Or. These will be reviewed in next week's Review Blog. 

On Sunday, on our way back to Walla Walla, we stopped in Prosser to visit the Thurston Wolfe Winery with Wade Wolfe and Becky Yeaman. The wines were terrific values, all $30 or less and scoring 18.5/20 and 19/20 points. Especially noteworthy were the 2020 "GSM" Blend of Grenache, Syrah and Malbec and the 2020 McKinley Springs Malbec. We had lunch at Wine O'clock were we had a well extracted 2021 Rosé and a tasty 2018 Dolcetto which went nicely with our pear and bacon pizza. No visit to Prosser is complete without a meal at this restaurant. 

Wine Deal of the Week

Starting with this posting, each week's Blog will feature an exceptional value which is not to be missed, especially if you like Cabernet Franc.

2020 Paul Buisse Chinon (Regular: $18.99) - I found this Loire Valley Cabernet Franc at the Plaza Way Safeway in Walla Walla. It was sandwiched among the domestic Cabernet Sauvignons and I purchased it for $11.49. It shows a purplish ruby color and aromas of raspberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, tobacco, herb potpourri and stick incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and calcareous minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with pressed fruits, toasted nuts, framboise liqueur and soft charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

More New and Older Wines Tasted

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 02 June 2022

Below is a bevy of wines we've tasted recently, some new ones, others from our collection.

2019 Château Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($48.99 - Esquin) - Web have had impressive vintages from Vieux Lazaret. Composed of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% barrel fermented Roussanne, this shows a brilliant gold color and ripe aromas of pear, peach, nectarine, tangerine, passion fruit, orange blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and white incense. The flavors, as well, are opulent, with rich yellow fruits that are intermixed with grape and pear skins, peach stones and mas minerals. On the back, the wine enrichens further with a leesy texture and pear and peach liqueurs, followed by a lingering, vigorous fruit acid finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Maison Les Alexandrines Crozes-Hermitage ($26.99 - Safeway) - This is the first Crozes-Hermitage I've seen in supermarket. This one shows an inky purplish color and an intense nose of dark fruits - black currants, black cherries, black plums - with scents of black roses, madero wrapped, lavender and sultry incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, with dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and calcareous minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted walnuts, mocha and charcoal, all followed by a savory lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Régis Minet Pouilly Fumé, "Vielles Vignes" ($29.90 - Foodscape. Walla Walla, $32.99 - Esquin) - This is our go-to  Sauvignon Blanc (Blanc Fumé) from the upper Loire Valley. Light straw colored, it possesses floral aromas of Anjou pear, Crenshaw melon, gooseberry, cut grass and wet stone. The flavors are vivid and precise, with notes of grape and pear skins and calcareous minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire William liqueur and melon rind followed by a crisp, persistently minerally finish. Pairs beautifully with shellfish. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($14.49 - Safeway) - This makes a nice luncheon red. It offers a purplish ruby color and engaging aromas of strawberry,  cherry, red currant. crushed roses, mulberry and light spices. Them flavors are medium bodied and direct with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, medium roast coffee beans and earth. The chewy textured yet quaffable back picks up pressed berries, creme de cassis and soft charcoal on the way to a soft tannin and moderate acid finish. 18/20 points.

2019 Domaine Cuillotte Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Cuvée de Noble Souche ($28 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - From a grower in Marsannay, this is a Burgundian gem. It displays a brick red color and attractive aromas of fraises de bois, cerise and cassis, with scents of red roses, cherry blossoms and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously supple, yet substantial. with red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and soft earth. The appeal continues on the back with gently pressed fruits, toasted nuts, mocha, kirsch and creme de cassis, followed by a silky moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Louis Jadot Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, La Dominode ($58.99 in 2019) - From an exceptional but not as great as 2015 or 2019, this offers a medium brick red color and a rich bouquet of wild strawberries, cherries, red currants, crushed roses, tobacco, dried orange peel and sultry incense. The flavors are ample yet deep and focused, with considerable Pinot character, marked by licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. On the back, the wine rounds out with fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a lot, rich finish. marled by smooth tannins. 19/20 points.

2015 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevry-Chambertin, "Mes Cinq Terroirs" ($85.99 in 2017) - This is a beautifully maturing Burgundy. It exhibits a brick red color and a rich bouquet of semi-dried fruits - raspberries, cherries, currants - with scents of dried rose petals, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and stick incense. The flavors are maturing into a round, deep texture - "velours" - with notes of licorice root, dark cocoa, roasted coffee and earth. The back reveals kirsch and cassis liqueurs, roasted nuts, toffee, all leading into a lengthy finish, marked by smoothing tannins. 19+/20 points.

2021 Rosé Wines Update

So far, we have tasted 55 Rosé wines from the 2021 vintage, mostly from Washington State, with a few from Oregon and just two imported ones.

Among these wines, most are amiable quaffing Rosés which will be enjoyable for summer drinking. For the most part, they do not seem to be quite as complicated as their 2020 counterparts, with a few exceptions. The three most outstanding Washington 2021 Rosés were the Saviah Sangiovese-Barbera,, L'Ecole No 41 Grenache and Canvasback Syrah. 

There will be at least ten new Rosés in the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines, including some from Woodinville wineries. Again, mostly enjoyable quaffing ones. One extraordinary and different Rosé is the 2021 Kinhaven Estate which was made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Here are the first two 2021 imported Rosés we've tasted this year.

2021 Ameztoi Getarriako Txakolina Rubentis ($23 - The Thief) - This Rosé from the Basque region of Spain displays a pink color, a frothy rime and intriguing aromas of strawberry, cherry, pink peach, pink grapefruit, cherry blossoms, pink lavender, cut herbs and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with bright pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up strawberry and cherry liqueurs, grapefruit peel and spritz on the light alcohol (11%) crisp, dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2021 Caves d'Esclans "Whispering Angel" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($24 - The Thief) - This vintage shows a light copper-tinged pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pink peach, Mandarin orange, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are light and fresh in a quaffable style, with pink fruits thatnare accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Esclans Valley minerals. The vivacity continues on the back with fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a deftly extracted finish. 18.5/20 points.

No Review Blog Next Week

On June 8, we will be leaving for Seattle, returning Sunday, June 12, so there will be no blog next week. The next blog will be on June 17 and will report on our visit to Woodinville.

Looking Ahead to July

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 25 May 2022

Now that the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines is on line, we are already working on the July issue of the Review of Washington Wines which will go on line June 24. In the Walla Walla Valley, we have already visited Saviah Cellars, Balboa and Grosgrain and have appointments lined up at Kinhaven, Revelry and Gifford Hirlinger. We will be visiting Woodinville on June 10 to catch up on Efeste, DeLille Cellars and JM Cellars. There will be a lot of exciting new wines reviewed, including Grenaches from Saviah and Grosgrain and 2021 whites from Balboa. 

In upcoming Review Blogs, I will write about wines made from the up and coming Grenache grapes, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir and Rosé of Grenache. There will be tasting reports on wines from around the world. And in early July, I will be taking a look at liquor privatization in Washington State ten years later. More later!

Recently Tasted International Wines

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 17 May 2022

Here are some more wines from around the world that we've tried recently.

French Wines

N.V. Langlois Crémant de Loire ($21.99 - Safeway) - Composed of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Pinot Noir, this displays a brilliant copper-tinged pink color, streaming bubbles and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, cherry blossoms and pink flowers. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with bright fruits that fill the mouth, along with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back is enlivened by fraise and cerise liquuers and CO2 on the brisk, dry finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Domaine Brussett Gigondas, "Les Secrets de Montmirial" (Purchased for $57.99 in 2018) - This is Brussett's old vine Reserve. It exhibits a deep ruby color and intense aromas of black currant, black cherry, black plum, crushed roses, dark tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The dark fruit flavors are intense, still youthful, with notes of licorice root, extra dark cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The penetration continues on the back with creme de cassis and kirsch liqueurs band charcoal, followed by a lengthy still ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2019 Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuissé, "Clos" Sur la Roche ($49.99 - wine.com) - From beneath the Rock of Vergisson, this is an outstanding Pouilly-Fuissé. It shows a brilliant gold color an d perfume aromas of pear-apple, white peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria and wet stone. The flavors are intense and mouth filling, pure Chardonnay, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and Vergisson granitic minerals. On the back, the wine gains intensity, with poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon custard on the way to a lingering, finely fruited finish. "Back to France, I love it!" says Lynn. 19+/20 points.

2019 Louis Jadot Chorey-les-Beaune "Les Beaumonts" ($47.99 - wine.com) - Chorey is situated below Aloxe-Corton. This displays a brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rosebuds, cherry blossoms, orange peel and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with supple red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and damp earth. The appeal continues on the back with gently pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs and soft pencil lead, followed by a smooth ripe tannin finish, For those who appreciate a charming Pinot Noir, this gets 19/20 points.

Back in 2018, when I learned that the 2015 was turning out to be a great year for Burgundy, I bought heavily into that vintage. Recently, we opened a few bottles which have turned out to be beautiful wines.

2015 Louis Jadot Côtes de Nuits Villages (Purchased for $44.99) - This multi vineyard blend shows a garnet edged brick color and rich, sultry maturing aromas of semi-dried fruits - cherries, plums, orange - with scents of crushed roses, tobacco leaf, sandalwood and stick incense. The flavors are rounding out with supple red fruits that are intermixed with licorice root, coffee beans and earth. The back reveals roasted berries, toffee, dried orange peel and smooth tannins on the suave finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Faiveley Mercurey Premier Cru, Clos ds Myglands ($44.99) - Deep garnet edge-colored (typical of a maturing Burgundy), this possesses sultry aromas of semi-dried fruits - strawberry, cherries, black currants - with scents of crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, dried orange peel, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are rounding out with what the Burgundians call "velours," with notes of licorice, cocoa, coffee beans and Saone river minerals. On the back, the wine retains its focus, supported by pressed fruits, roasted nuts and creme de cassis, followed by a lengthy chewy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Fuées ($124.99) - Deep ruby-garnet colored, this wine possesses an intoxicating bouquet of wild strawberry, old tree cherry, black currant, crushed rose petals, orange peel and exotic incense. The flavors are simultaneously bold and refines with thick red fruits that are infused with licorice root, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. The penetration continues on the back with fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs, dried orange peel, suede leather and charcoal stick, followed by an ultra-long sweetish tannin finish. Will continue to age beautifully. 19.5/20 points.

2015 Domaine Jacques Fréderic Mugnier Nuits-St. Georges Premier Cru, Clos de la Maréchale ($124.99) - This is a classic Nuits-St. Georges. It exhibits a ruby-garnet color and a rich bouquet of semi dried fruits - raspberries, cherries, red currants, orange peel - with scents of dried roses, aged cigar wrapper, sandalwood and oriental incense. The flavors are rich and vigorous, with notes of licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the Burgundian "velours" emerges with dried fruits and orange peel on the lengthy finish. 19.5/20 points.

International Sauvignon Blancs

Recently, we picked up some Sauvignon Blancs from around the world that show what can be done with this undervalued variety.

2020 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($18) - Back in the 1980's Ferrari-Carano was one of the first wineries to call Sauvignon Blanc "Fumé Blanc" after the ones of the upper Loire Valley. This vintage shows a brilliant straw color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear blossoms, jasmine, lemongrass and green incense. The flavors are brisk yet nicely fruited, with notes of grape and pear skins and stony minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, grapefruit peel and neutral oak on the crisp finish. "I love it," says Lynn. A bargain when purchased for $13.99. 18.5/20 points.

2021 Wautoma Springs Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($18) - This is a bright, fresh, lively Washington Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and saline minerals, and a bit of passionfruit on the back adds a bit of tropicality. Full review to be in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 18.5/20 points.

2020 J. de Villebois Pouilly-Fumé ($29.99 - Safeway) - This is Fumé Blanc (the local name for Sauvignon Blanc) from Pouilly-sur-Loire. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and striking aromas of green apple, white peach, gooseberry, lime, gunflint and white smoke. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with white and green fruits that are accented by grape and apple skins, peach stones and Kimmeridgian marl minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with Calvados and pêche liqueurs and lime zest on the way to a crisp, persistently minerally finish. 18.5+/20 points.

When it comes to wine, New Zealand is best known for its dry, crisp Sauvignon Blancs. Most are commercial but here are two fine examples.

2021 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($16.99 - Safeway)  - Light straw colored, this possesses expressive aromas of green pear, gooseberry, kiwi, lime, peat blossoms, jasmine, cut grass and wet stone. The flavors are brisk and lively yet ripe and mouthwatering, with notes of grape and pear skins and riverside minerals. The back picks up pear liqueur and lime zest on the way to a racy yet finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2021 Anthony Joseph Vidal Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($28.99 - Safeway) - This displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of green apple, white peach, passionfruit, gooseberry, apple blossoms, lemongrass, dill and wet stone. The flavors are crisp, almost laser-like, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The resonance continues ob the back with apple and peach h. liqueurs, and three months on lees adds texture, all accented by lime zest on the brisk finish. 18.5+/20 points.