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Besides tasting wines for the Review of Washington Wines, we've been picking up some new French wines to try. Here are our latest discoveries. 

2020 By Ott Côtes de Provence Rosé ($29 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This features a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink peach, tangerine, red currants, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and Provence hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, recurring tangerine peel and light spices on the dry finish. This evokes a Côte d'Azur afternoon. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine de Salvard Cheverney ($19 The Thief) - This is 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Chardonnay from the upper Loire, near Blois. It displays a straw-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear blossoms, jasmine and oyster shell. The flavors are bright and juicy, accented by grape skins and saline minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp, persistently minerally finish. Terrific value. 18.5/20 points.

2018 William Fevre Chablis, "Champs Royaux" ($33.99 - Esquin) - From a respected grower-negotiant, this Chardonnay offers an iridescent greenish-gold color and aromas of green apple, quince, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, spring flowers and wet stone. The flavors are brisk and brightly fruited, with notes of grape and apple skins and calcareous minerals. The back picks up melon rind and lemon zest on the way to a bracing but unaustere crisp finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château de Pizay Morgon ($19.99 - Esquin) - We stayed at the Château two nights in 2014. This Cru Beaujolais shows a brilliant purple-crimson color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, orange peel, red roses and sweet incense. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously fruit forward, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange  peel, followed by a nicely juiced moderate tannin and acid finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine des Chers Saint-Amour, Vieilles Vignes ($25 - The Thief) - A lovely name and a charming Cru Beaujolais. It shows a ruby color and perfumed aromas of strawberries, cherries, wild currants, crushed roses, spring flowers and sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries, mocha and toffee and then gains intensity on the vigorous, juicy moderate tannin finis. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Daniel Bouland Morgon "Bellevue," Cuvée No. 3 ($40 - The Thief) - This is a rich, tasty Morgon from 40 year-old vines. It boasts a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild fruits  - raspberries, bayberries, brambly currants - with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are ample yet deep and mouth filling, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and rock minerals. On the back, the wine takes a lavish turn with sensations of pressed fruits, framboise, creme de cassis, charcoal stick and lanolin ("legs"), followed by a lengthy moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.

We love the South Rhone wines of Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape. Being Grenache dominated (with some Syrah and Mourvèdre) the reds offer a lot of flavor interest.

2018 Crous Saint Martin Gigondas, "Les Espalieres" ($24.99 - Esquin) - This is a great value. Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, it offers a deep ruby color and effusive aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, rosebuds, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are generous and mouth filling, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a slightly grainy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Notre Dame des Pallières Gigondas ($29.99 - Esquin) - This is a super value. Deep ruby colored, it possesses seductive aromas of wild raspberries, blueberries, black currants, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs) and spiced incense. The flavors are full and generous, yet focused, with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with roasted berries and nuts,  framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas, "Aux Lieu Dits" ($38.99 - Esquin) - From eight vineyards ("lieu dits") this is an elegantly styled Gigondas with a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberries, red currants, pomegranates, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, violets and spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously generous yet substantial, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and mountain minerals. On the back, the wine builds up with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis, all followed by a lingering spiced (nutmeg, clove) precise fruit acid and tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf du Pape ($38.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 65% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, this displays a deep ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of wild raspberries, black currants, black plums, crushed black roses, dark leaf tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are dramatic, with thick dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans and mas earth and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, framboise and creme de cassis and burnt charcoal, all pushing on into lengthy ripe sweetish tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Château Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($50.99 - Esquin) - Most Châteauneuf du Pape is red, but a small amount of white wine is made. Composed of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% Roussanne, this displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, Casaba melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, herbal tea, white lavender and green incense. The flavors, as well, are striking, with vivid white and yellow fruits that are invigorated by grape skins, peach stones and stony mas minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel along with a sprinkling of exotic herbs, followed by a lingering full finish. 19+/20 points.

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As the Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend (May 7-9) approaches, there are some wineries that will not have tasting rooms open. Most were hoping to be open but have not been able to do so. Opening a wine tasting room requires negotiating bureaucratic hurdles. There is Washington State Liquor Board licensing, and a host of city and state regulations to meet. Locations and layouts have to be approved and operations standards have to be met. For instance, machines for washing glassware have to be inspected and tested. And all wine servers have to have MAST alcoholic beverage service permits. Meeting these requirements is time consuming, resulting in delays in getting tasting rooms opened. 

One of the wineries that had to delay opening is Keith Johnson's Devium Wines. Keith has been making his wines at Sleight of Hand Cellars where he is assistant winemaker, but was wishing to have a location to offer tastings of his own wines. Yesterday, I received an email announcement that the new tasting space at the airport, 1460 F St., has been put on hold for another week or two, due to "a clerical error outside of our control" As "a nod to the bureaucratic process," the winery was announcing a sale. 

Other wineries awaiting approval for new tasting rooms are the L'Ecole No 41 Heritage by L'Ecole Wine Bar at the corner of E. Rose and 2nd Ave. (formerly occupied by Tero Estates) and Vital Wines on N. 2nd (in the former Su Lei space). 

One winery that has opened a new tasting room is Dillon Cellars, owned by Marc Dillon Leahy, which is now located on Rolling Hill Lane below Amavi and above Valdemar Estates in the facility formerly occupied by Waters. 

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This year, May 7 - 9, the Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend will be back. Last year, that annual event was cancelled due to COVID-19. Now there will be some semblance - but not real - of normalcy. Tasting room capacities will be limited, at 50%. At some tasting rooms, walk-ins will be permitted, but some will require advance reservations. In any case, reservations are strongly recommended. 

There will be Winemaker Dinners as well, but with limited seating. Check the winery websites for more information. Club members have or will be getting announcements. Food trucks will be parked at some wineries as well.

For tips on which wineries to visit and the Spring Releases, check the May (on line now) and the April issues of the Review of Washington Wines. 

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Over the past couple of weeks, we've been sampling some new Rosé wines. The ones from Washington will be in the May and June issues of the Review of Washington Wines. But first, here's one from France's Côte de Provence.

2020 Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Les Templiers" ($15.99 - Safeway) - Light copper-pink colored, this exudes intriguing aromas of strawberries, pink peach, orange peel, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted but well delineated, with notes of grape skins, peach stones, and Provençal hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and pêche liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.

The following wines will be in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line April 23). Here are capsule reviews, full ones to be in the next issue.

2020 Gramercy Cellars Olsen Vineyard Rosé, Yakima Valley ($22) - Composed of 50% Cinsault, 26% Grenache, 24% Syrah, this offers a pink color and enticing aromas ofsStrawberry, currants, watermelon, tangerine and perfumes, with fresh, sprightly flavors and a pleasingly juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 The Walls "Cruel Summer" Rosé, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($25) - This 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre combination shows a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, tangerine, star fruit, summer flowers and white incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, but well delineated, evoking a Côte d'Azur afternoon. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Aluvé Sangiovese Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($23) - Light copper-pink colored, this possesses enticing aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, watcmelob and tangerine with more extraction than the color would seem to indicate, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and minerals, followed by a pleasing dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Efestē Oldfield Estate Rosé, Yakima Valley ($25) - This 52% Mourvèdre, 48% Grenache combination offers lovely aromas of strawberry, kiwi, tangerine, orange blossoms, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with pink fruits, accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - From the Dugger Creek Vineyard, this offers a light copper-pink color and intriguing aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, tangerine, pink roses and cherry blossoms. The flavors are bursting with bright red fruits and the back picks up a bit of spritz on the way to a nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Tranche Estate "Pink Pape" Rosé Wine, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($22) - This Rosé (42% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 23% Counoise) presents a pale pink-copper color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pomegranate, pink grapefruit and cherry blossoms. The flavors are lightly extracted and lively. For those liking a lighter Provence-like Rosé, this merits 18.5/20 points.

2020 Walla Walla Vintners Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - Although not stated on the label, this is 100% Sangiovese. It shows a light pink-copper color and lovely aromas of strawberries, Rainier cherries and tangerine with scents of cherry and orange tree blossoms. The flavors are bright and vivacious with a crisp, minerals dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

The following to be in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

2020 Gorman "The Devil Wears Pink" Rosé, Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard ($18) - Brilliant pink-copper colored, this possesses enticing aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, tangerine, pink lilac, lavender and incense. The flavors are bright and fresh and the back picks up fraise liqueur and pomegranate seed followed by a juicy, lightly spiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Lu & Oly "Flowerhead" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) - A Mark Ryan Family wine, this 89% Sangiovese shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine peel, cherry blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively and the back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs. For those liking a light, fresh style, this gets 18.5/20 points.

2020 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($18) - Light copper colored, this possesses intriguing aromas of strawberry, pink peach, cantaloupe, pink roses and orange incense. The flavors are light but deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, peach stones, pekoe tea and minerals, followed by a brisk, nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.

In addition to the above wines, the June issue will have this Sparkling Rosé:

2016 Northstar Brut Rosé. Methode Champenoise, Columbia Valley ($50) - This features a brilliant copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and exuberant aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, orange peel, cherry blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are accented by cherry stones and saline minerals and enlivened by the CO2, followed by a crisp, lively true Brut finish. 19/20 points.

 

 

 

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A Special Announcement

Effective today, April 1, 2021, the Review of Washington Wines will be called The Review of Walla Walla Wines. With over 120 wineries in the Walla Walla Valley, there are plenty of wines to be reviewed in each issue. No need to go traipsing all over the state to taste wines to be reviewed. We can just work at home. 

Just kidding. April Fool's Day!

No Review Blog Next Week

On April 6, we will be driving over to the Westside, stopping in Woodinville to visit some wineries. On the way back, we will stop in Prosser. The wines will be in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

More Rosés

I picked up a couple more French Rosé wines at the Thief Bottle Shop in Walla Walla. See last week's blog posting for others.

2020 J. Mourat "Rosée de Jardin" Val de Loire Rosé ($19) - This is a delightful light Rosé. It shows a light copper-tinged pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, watermelon, and tangerine with scents of cherry blossoms, spring flowers and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are lively and deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peek on the way to a brisk dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Famille Lefage "Miraflors" Rosé, Côtes Catalanes ($20) - This comes from the French side of Catalonia. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color and fragrant aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Mediterranean minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a nicely juiced dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.

The following Washington Rosés are to be reviewed in the May issue.

2020 The Walls "Cruel Summer" Rosé, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($25) - This 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre Rosé is made in a light, Provencçal style. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Prospice Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - This combination of 49% Grenache, 27% Counoise and 24% Counoise is made in a Tavel-like style with bright red fruits that are given texture by sur lie aging. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - From the Dugger Creek Vineyard, this 60% Sangiovese, 40% Barbera combination offers a fresh, brisk sale with bright red fruits and a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Tranche Estate Pink Pape, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($22) - This Grenache-Cinsault-Counoise Rosé was cold cluster fermented, giving it a vivid, nicely fruited character. 18.5/20 points.

This weekend, we will be stopping at Aluvé and Walla Walla Vintners to try their rosés which will be in the May issue.

  1. New 2020 French Rosés
  2. French and Portuguese Wines Tasted Recently
  3. French and Italian Wines Tasted Recently
  4. Washington Wine Savings at Esquin