Details

Esquin Wine Merchants has always been a supplier of great wine buys as well as the classics. When I started in 1969, we had Gigondas, Beaujolais, Zinfandel and more. Today, under the ownership of the LeFevre family, Esquin continues to make great wine deals. There is a large section in the store for special purchases that offer terrific value. In my last shipment from Esquin, I had Arnie Millan, the wine buyer, put together a selection of Best Buys for review in this blog.

2019 Board Track Racer "The Vincent" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($14.99) - BTR is a Mark Ryan brand. This Syrah-Merlot combination sports a light copper-pink color and aromas of strawberry, cherry, tangerine, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and light minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.

2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Magician's Assistant" Cabernet Franc Rosé, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($17.99) - One of the best Cab Franc Rosés of the vintage, this is sold out at the winery, but Esquin still has it. Light copper colored, it possesses attractive aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms, and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with grape skins, cherry stones and Yakima Valkley alluvial minerals. The back reveals framboise and kirsch liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel on the finely fruited finish. Very likable, 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Cadaretta "SBS" White Wine, Columbia Valley ($12.99) - Cadaretta has closed down and the properties sold. This was $23 last year, now almost half price. SBS stands for 66% Sauvignon Blanc and 34% Semillon. It shows a brilliant straw-gold color and expressive aromas of pear-apple, Crenshaw melon, citrus, apple blossoms, meadow flowers and lemongrass. The flavors are lively but well textured, with notes of pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and a touches of beeswax and melon rind followed by a BDX-like dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Milbrandt Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($13.99) - This sells for $20 at the winery, but Esquin made a deal for $6 off. It offers a ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, sage and incense. The flavors are generous and direct, yet substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cola, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, and toffee followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2016 Red I.Q. Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($12.99) - This was produced and bottled by the Pamplin Family Winery ibn Sherwood, Oregon. A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot, it offers a ruby color and rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, black roses, tobacco, cedar and incense. The flavors are ample yet focused, with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted nuts and graphite, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.

2018 Soléna "Grande Cuvée" Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($22.99) - This one of the best Oregon Pinots for Under $25 that I've run across. This shows a deep brick red color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, cherries, brambly currants, crushed roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with medium bodied yet substantial red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, French roast and earth. The appeal continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha, toffee and integrated moderate tannin on the solid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga ($20.99) - This is a super "find." Verduno is a small town north of Barolo and Pelaverga is an ancient indigenous red grape. The color is medium garnet-rosé and the aromas are intriguing, redolent of red and orange fruits - raspberry, cherry, blood orange - with scents of semi dried rose petals, tobacco leaf and incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive with light medium bodied yet mouth filing red fruits with notes of red licorice, cola, herbal tea and hillside minerals. The back picks up cherry liqueur, orange peel and a touch of amaro, followed by a ripe finish that is lifted by a bit of fruit acid. Goes nicely with chicken. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Valdo Prosecco "Mara Oro" Brut ($13.99) - This a better Prosecco at the same price as popular brands such as La Marca. It offers a bright gold color, frothy bubbles and floral aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and stone. The flavors are fresh and zesty, with touches of hazelnut and toast on the dry true Brut finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Crous St. Martin Gigondas, "Les Espalieres" ($24.99) - Most Gigondas runs from $30 to $40, so this is a super buy. Composed of 80% Greanace and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, it shows a ruby-crimson color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, brambly currant, black roses lavender, olive and spiced incense. The flavors are generous yet focused, with red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cola, black tea and Montmirial minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Tridente Tempranillo, Castilla y Leon ($17.99) - This Spanish red displays an inky purple-ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of black fruits, black roses, Spanish lavender and incense. The flavors are thick and bold, with loads of dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, chicory coffee and Zamora Valley sand and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and mocha, followed by a warm sweet-dry tannin finish. Packs a lot of flavor for the modest price. 18.5/20 points.

 

Details

Three weeks ago, in my posting of 11 June, I listed the 2019 Rosé wines we have tasted so far (scroll down below to see it). Below are some more we have tried since then, including three from France, the first 2019s from that country. 

When picking Rosé wines to buy, keep in mind that there is a wide range of types and styles, depending on the grape varieties used and how they are vinified. The intensity of color is not always an indicator of extraction and body. And styles can range from very dry to medium dry. In writing my descriptions, I try to indicate the wine's character and style. The scores reflect the wines quality apart from their styles. So read the notes to determine which wines best fit your preferences which, especially when it comes to Rosés, can be highly subjective.

New in the Upcoming August Issue

2019 Itä Rosé of Primitivo, Walla Walla Valley, Les Collines Vineyard ($25) - Fermented and aged in stainless steel after six hours' skin contact, this shows a light copper-pink color and expressive aromas of strawberry, cherry, pink peach, tangerine, pink roses and lightly spiced incense. The flavors are nicely extracted and textured with a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Gifford Hirlinger Estate Rosé of Pinot Gris, Walla Walla Valley ($20) - With five days on skins before pressing, this shows a copper-pink color and expressive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, tangerine cherry blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are deftly extracted, more than usual, and a finely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley ($15) - This features a light copper-pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are brisk and lively, followed by a crisp finish. Purchased for $10.49 which makes it a bargain. 18/20 points.

2019 College Cellars Rosé of Grenache, Walla Walla Valley ($20) - A delightful slightly sparkling Rosé, with a copper-tinged pink color and ripe, fresh aromas and flavors with a sprightly freshness from the infused CO2. Touches of fraise and cassis liqueurs preface a zingy finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Nefarious Cellars Rosé, Lake Chelan ($22) - This 70% Syrah, 30% Pinot Noir combination is more extracted than usual. I displays a brilliant copper color and intriguing aromas of raspberries, rhubarb, currant, blood orange, orange blossoms, lavender and incense. The flavors are striking, picking up creme de cassis and Grand Marnier liqueurs, followed by a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Hard Row to Hoe Grenache Rosé, Lake Chelan ($22) - Brilliant salmon-pink colored, this possesses floral aromas and fresh, lively flavors with moderate extraction (slow cold fermented), accented by melon rind, pomegranate seeds and glacial minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of tangerine zest, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Tertulia Cellars Estate Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - Produced from 100% Tempranillo, this shows a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, watermelon, tangerine, lavender and incense. The flavors are bright and juicy, deftly extracted, with notes of cherry stones and minerals, followed by a nicely fruited moderate alcohol (11.9%) finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Fly Rod Cellars "Pink Pollywog" Rosé of Mourvèdre, Wahluke Slope ($20) - This features a brilliant copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberries, Rainier cherries, red currants. lavender and pink incense. The flavors are vivid and nicely extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Wahluke Slope minerals, followed by a pleasingly juicy dry finish. 18.5/20 points. 

2019 Time & Direction Rosé of Grenache, Columbia Valley, Thunderstone Vineyard ($22) - This "Cheat Code" Rosé offers a salmon-pink color and striking aromas of strawberry, Rainer cherry, red currant, orange peel, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are bright and lightly extracted, with fraise and kirsch liqueurs and a twist of tangerine peel, followed by a vivid, dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

Full reviews to be in the August issue, on line July 25.

New From France

The tariff on French Rosés has turned out to be not as bad as expected. A 50% tariff was threatened, but ended up at 25%, much of which has been absorbed by growers. Here are three new ones.

2019 Gérard Bertrand "Côté des Roses" Languedoc Rosé ($15.99 - Safeway) - This Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre combination displays a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, tangerine, red currant, spring flowers, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with lightly extracted grape skins, pomegranate juice and Languedoc minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel on the pleasingly juicy dry finish. 18/20 points.

2019 Minuty "M" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - Light copper-pink colored, this possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, white cherry, red currant, tangerine, pink roses, pink lavender and Provencal herbs. The flavors are fresh and lightly extracted, accented by grape skins, cherry stones and gravelly minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and a twist of tangerine peel, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. Fine value. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Château de Sêgeriès Tavel Rosé ($25.99 - wine.com) - This is not a pale, light Rosé. Lynn calls it "deep Rhone." It possesses intense aromas of fraises de bois, pomegranate, red currants, orange peel, wild roses, lavender and exotic incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, bursting with red fruits that are infused with grape skins, pomegranate seeds and stony Provence minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a vigorous, well-fruited dry finish. 19/20 points. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Details

A few weeks ago, Brian Rudin, the winemaker for Canvasback, asked me if I would like to taste some samples of the winery's 2018 Cabernet Sauvignons before bottling. I said sure. So Brian pulled some samples for me, "from tank, pre SO2 added and pre-filtration, so they should show well for 12-24 hours once you open. The SO2 is low and they will therefore open quickly." Here are the wines tasted, with Brian's comments and my notes. The pluses on the scores indicate the potential to advance, from, say, 19/20 points to 19.5/20.

2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Longwind Estate Vineyard - "Our first bottling of our Estate fruit, from 5 year-old vines. 98% CS, 2% Merlot. Clones 8 and 2 for Cab, Clone 15 Merlot." My tasting notes: "This shows a deep ruby-crimson color and an intense, berried nose of blackberries, cherries, blueberries, with scents of crushed black roses, sweet tobacco, cedar and a hint of mint. The flavors are attention-getting, with loads of black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, dark cocoa, roasted coffee beans and Red Mountain calcareous earth. The back reveals macerated berries, toasted nuts, creme de cassis, kirsch and toasty oak, followed by a long finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Klipsun Vineyard - "We've been working with Klipsun since 2012, but this is the first time we've vineyard designated it. 92% CS, 7% Malbec, 1% Merlot. We blended the Malbec into the Cab the same day we pressed the Cab in November 2018 to capture its blackness of color and blue fruit..." My notes: Deep ruby colored, this possesses intense aromas of blackberries, black cherries, crushed roses, dark tobacco, black olive, sweet pea flowers, rosemary and stick incense. The flavors are generous and sweetish, yet deep cored and tightly focused, with interlayering of licorice, cocoa, French roast and earth. The back reveals macerated fruits, roasted walnuts, kirsch, mocha, toasty oak and pencil shavings, followed by a lingering sweetish tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard - "78% CS from 1994 Cordon Block, 20% Merlot from 2003 block and 2% Cabernet Franc planted in 1998. We love this old-vine fruit, delivering s classic WA profile. The CS and the CF hang on to a lot of tannin and pyridine right up to the end of the season...A restrained style for us." My notes: Semi opaque ruby colored, this emits sultry, smoky aromas of blackberry, black cherry, plum, cassis, black roses, dark tobacco, cedar, mint and sweet oriental incense. The flavors are powerful, yet restrained, with layers of dark fruits that are infused with licorice root, dark cocoa, Sumatra   roast and mid Red Mountain earth. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, kirsch and cassis liqueur, integrated oak and pulverized charcoal, followed by an ultra long firm, yet sweetish tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Canvasback Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley - "80% CS (McClellan and Eritage vineyards), 12% Merlot (Eritage) and 8% PV from Seven Hills Vineyard. We take some pretty deliberate measures to make this Cab distinctly different from our RM Cabs. We're looking for that earthier, mineral, somewhat more restrained expression, to contrast with our big red-fruit laden Cabs." My notes: Semi opaque ruby-crimson colored, this possesses intoxicating aromas of blackberries, huckleberries, black cherries, Damson plums, black currants, black roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco, black olive and incense. The flavors are thick and fruit forward, with dark fruits that are underlain with licorice, extra dark cacao, French roast and loess minerals. The wine intensifies on the back with macerated berries, roasted walnuts, mocha, toffee, toasty oak and creme de cassis and kirsch liqueurs. The dark fruits last and last on the ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2018 Canvasback Grand Passage Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain - "This one is 99% CS, 1% Merlot. 72% CS from Quintessence Blocks 2 and 23, with 25% CS coming from the 1985 planting at Blackwood Canyon. We love Quintessence for its black fruit, its lush tannins, its sleek modern shape and its acid retention. The Blackwood was clutch for its hefty structure and its sweet-spot pyrazines. On its own, it's all black/blue fruit, juniper berry, crushed cedar and graphite, so we blended it in at second racking to get our classic pyridine tones dialed. I think this our best one yet." My notes: This shows an inky purple-crimson color and seductive aromas of wild fruits - blackberries, black cherries, black plums, black currants - with scents of black roses, sweet tobacco, black olive, rosemary, sage, fennel, juniper berries, sweet oriental incense. The flavors are thick and lavish, yet deep cored, projecting elegance, marked by notes of licorice root, dark cocoa, extra dark roast and damp earth. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted walnuts, kirsch, creme de cassis, integrated oak and sleek tannins on the ultra long finish. 19.5+/20 points, likely 20/20.

Here, we have five Cabernets, all nearly equal qualitatively but each a bit different, from the terroirs of the sources. These wines are especially impressive coming as they do from a winery that began in 2011 as a Washington extension of the Napa Valley Duckhorn winery with just a Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Now there are five distinguished Cabernets. These 2018s will be bottle aged for 1 to 1 1/2 years before release.

 

Details

Yesterday, Wednesday, June 17, we had a tasting and lunch at Valdemar Estates, the showpiece winery in the South Valley. As per requirements for wine tasting rooms under Phase 2, the staff wore masks and scrupulous sanitation was observed. Luckily, the layout of the tasting and dining areas is spacious and amenable for the seating spacing requirements (tables 5 feet apart). There is outdoor seating as well including cross seating spaces. The dining menu has been updated with plates such as Spanish stew and Lamb pinchos in addition to the usual jamón and chorizo tapas. We had delicious roasted asparagus wrapped with jamón and sprinkled with grated Manchego. Lynn took the white wine flight and I took the Valdemar Estates flight. Here are my abbreviated notes (full reviews to be in the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines).

2019 Valdemar Estates Roussanne, Columbia Valley ($40) - This shows a brilliant gold color and seductive aromas of Bosc pear, white nectarine, blood orange, white lilac and white incense. The flavor are mouth filling and resonant, with notes of herbal tea, and poire William and Grand Marnier liqueurs. 19/20 points.

2018 Valdemar Estates Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, DuBrul Vineyard ($50) - This barrel-fermented Chardonnay shows wonderful purity, with ripe, floral aromas and simultaneously rich and racy flavors that are underpinned with peach stone, pear skin and stony minerals. This recalls the Anvil Chardonnays that Marie-Eve Gilla used to make at Forgeron Cellars. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Valdemar Estates Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($65) - This Syrah (with 5% Grenache) shows a semi-opaque ruby color and seductive aromas of wild fruits, star anise and spiced incense. The flavors are generous yet full bore, showing great elegance throughout. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Valdemar Estates Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Blue Mountain Vineyard ($75) - This possesses an inky color and intoxicating aromas of wild fruits, lavender, violets, sage and oriental incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive yet refined. The penetration continues on the back, followed by a long, opulent finish. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Valdemar Estates Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Stoney Vine Vineyard ($75) - From the "Rocks," this shows a deep ruby-crimson color and rich, smoky nose of black and blue fruits, with scents of lavender, violets, cracked pepper and incense. The flavors are bold and authoritative yet elegant with distinct cobblestone and loam minerals and a long, long finish. 19.5/20 points.

 

Details

Listed below are the 2019 Rosé wines we have tasted so far this year. As the summer approaches, we thought you might like a guide to the ones currently available. Sadly, there are no French Rosés here. The Trump administration tariff has jacked up the cost of these wines by 50%.

In the listing below, Rhone and Provence style Rosés are identified as to varietal composition (in order of percentages) with the following abbreviations: G - Grenache, S - Syrah, M - Mourvèdre and C - Cinsault or Counoise. 

2019 SMAK Wines "Fall / Winter Rose," Syrah, Columbia Valley ($18) - 18.5/20 points - March

2019 SMAK Wines "Spring Rosé," Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley ($18) - 18.5/20 points - March

2019 SMAK Wines "Summer Rosé" Pinot Gris, Walla Walla Valley ($18) - 18.5/20 points - March

2019 Renegade Wine Co. Rosé, Columbia Valley, G-C-M-S ($13) - 18+/20 points - March

2019 Underground Wine Project. "Why I am Mr. Pink" Rosé, Columbia Valley, Undisclosed varieties ($13) - 18+/20 points - March

2019 Brook & Bull Rosé, Columbia Valley, M-C-C (sold out) - 18.5/20 points - March

2019 Rôtie Cellars Rosé, Washington, M-G ($22) 19/20 points - April

2019 Rôtie Cellars "Stonewall" Rosé, Washington, S-G-M ($25) - 19/20 points - April

2019 Seven Hills Dry Rosé, (Cab Franc, Merlot) Columbia Valley ($18) - 18.5/20 points - April

2019 L'Ecole No 41 Grenache Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills, Alder Ridge Vineyard ($21) - 18.5/20 points - April

2019 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Franc Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) 18.5/20 points - April

2019 Thurston Wolfe Sangiovese Rosé, Yakima Valley ($18) - 18/20 points - April

2019 Gilbert Cellars Rosé, Columbia Valley ($18) - 18/20 points - April

2019 Gilbert Cellars Pétillant Naturel of Grenache, Yakima Valley ($22) - 18.5/20 points - April

2019 The Walls "Cruel Summer" Rose, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard, G-M ($25) - 18.5+/20 points - May

2019 Gramercy Cellars Olsen Vineyard Rosé, Yakima Valley C-G-S ($25) - 18.5+/20 points - May

2019 Vital Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, M (not on label) ($19) - 18.5/20 points - May

2019 Walla Walla Vintners Rosé (Sangiovese) - Walla Walla Valley ($22) - 18.5/20 points - May

2019 Tero Estates Rosé of Charbono, Walla Walla Valley, Windrow Vineyard ($22) - 18.5/20 points - May

2019 Balboa Rosé, Columbia Valley, M-G ($25) - 18.5/20 points - May

2019 Abeja "Beekeeper's Rosé," Walla Walla Valley, M - ($32) - 19/20 points - June

2019 Bledsoe Family "Healy Rosé," Walla Walla Valley (undisclosed) - ($35) - 19/20 points - June

2019 Aluvé Sangiovese Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($23) - 18.5+/20 points - June

2019 Prospice Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, S-G-C ($22) - 18.5/20 points - June

2019 Canvasback Rosé of Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($30) - 19/20 points - June

2019 DeLille Cellars Rosé, Yakima Valley, G-M-C ($32) - 19/20 points - June

2019 Bartholomew Rosé of Carmenère, Rattlesnake Hills ($18) - 18.5/20 points - June

2019 College Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Sangio-Barbera (not on label) ($18) - 18.5/20 points - June

2019 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) - 18.5+/20 points - June

2019 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Sangiovese-Barbera, Walla Walla Valley ($20) - 18.5/20 points - June

2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "Magician's Assistant" Rose of Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($18) - 18.5+/20 points - June

The following to be in the July issue (on line June 25):

2019 Smoky Rose Cellars Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley ($25) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 DAMA Wines Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($25) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 Syncline Rosé, Columbia Valley, M-C-G ($25) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 Domaine Pouillon Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills, G-C ($25) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 COR Cellars "Rosae" Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Horse Heaven Hills ($22) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 Caprio Cellars Estate Rose (Cabernet Franc), Walla Walla Valley ($25) - 18.5/20 points - July

2019 Convergence Zone Cellars "Three Forks" Rose of Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley, Gamache Vineyard ($20) - July

 

  1. Walla Walla County Enters Phase 2
  2. The Virtual Tasting of Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Syrahs
  3. Tasting with Doug Roskelley at Tero Estates
  4. The Latest in Washington Wine Values