Recently Tasted French Wines

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 19 January 2022

Recently, we had some new French wines shipped to us from Esquin and Wine.com. Here's what we've tried so far.

Sparkling Wines

N.V. Domaine Franck Besson "Dentelle" Blanc de Noirs Brut ($19.99 - Esquin) - Produced from Gamay by the Methode Traditionelle, this offers an iridescent gold color, streaming bubbles and intriguing aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, currant, cherry blossoms and wet stone. The flavors are fresh and lacey ("dentelle" in French) with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and granitic minerals. The back is well textured (18 months on lees before disgorgement 6/22/21) and enlivened by bright acidity and CO2. 18+/20 points.

N.V. Jean-Baptiste Adam Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé ($24.99 -Esquin) - This displays a brilliant copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and lovely aromas of wild strawberries, pink cherries, mandarin orange, cherry and orange blossoms, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with pink and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Vosges minerals. On the back, the wine is enlivened but fraise and cerise liqueurs, orange peel and CO2 on the juicy Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Champalou Vouvray Brut, Methode Traditionnelle ($26.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this sparkler shows frothy bubbles and a floral nose of pear-apple, white peach, lemon custard, apple blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are deliciously bright and vibrant, the essence of Chenin Blanc, with notes of grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and recurring lemon ci=ustard, followed by a vigorous yet balanced dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

Burgundies

2019 Domaine Me Goddard Morgon, Côte du Py ($43.99 - wine.com) - This is an exemplary Cru Beaujolais. Deep ruby colored, it emits seductive aromas of black currant, black cherry, pomegranate, black roses, lavender, orange peel, rubbed sage andisplays sweet incense. The flavors are mouth filling and refined, with copious red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with cerise and cassis liqueurs, toasted nuts, recurring orange peel and culminates in a supple fine grained tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-les Beaune Blanc ($53.99 - wine.com) - This displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria and white incense. The flavors are intense, pure Chardonnay. with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and Savigny argillio-calcareous minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and persistent mineralogy on the precise finish. From 40 year-old vines and just 10% new oak, the terroir speaks for the wine. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine de Bellene Santenay Blanc, Les Charmes Dessus ($53.99 - wine.com) - Santenay is situated at the southern end of the Côte d'Or. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this possesses rich, floral aromas of pear, white peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, acacia flowers, butternut and white incense. The pure Chardonnay flavors are simultaneously rich and laser-like, with vivid white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, peach stones and saline minerals. The resonance continues on †he back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of crème fraiche and brioche, followed by s lingering, precisely balanced finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-les-Beaune ($49.99 - wine.com) - Brick red colored (typical of a young Pinot Noir), this emits enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cerise, cassis, rosebuds, pipe tobacco, olive, orange peel and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous yet deep red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and earth. On the back, the wine invigorates with pressed fruits, kirsch and crème de cassis liqueurs, charcoal stick and light oak (20% new) followed by a long, complex ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Domaine Roux Père & Fils Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune ($22.99 - wine.com) From the slopes above Beaune, this offers a brick red color and enticing aromas of raspberry, currant, rose petals, tobacco, orange peel and whiffs of incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, showing high elevation Pinot Noir character, marked by red licorice, cocoa powder, pekoe tea and minerals. The accessibility continues on the back with gently pressed berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Roux Père & Fils Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire ($41.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this possesses rich, smoky aromas of fraises de bois and black currant, with scents of wild roses, tobacco, cedar, orange peel, sage and smoldering incense. The flavors are authentically Burgundian, with thick, chewy layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate, black tea and limestone. The wine thickens on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, all followed by s lengthy slightly grainy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Walla Walla Wine News & Deal of the Month

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 12 January 2022

As we go into the new year, here are some recent developments in the Walla Walla Valley.

Buty Winery Closing

Yesterday, Nina Busy announced on Facebook that her winery near the airport was closing down. She stated, "I see wine as a bridge into so many layers of story and connection and Buty as a summation of the time, care and sharing many --so that its community and history is created by all of us."  Coming since the closing of other wineries, particularly Tertulia last fall, this is not surprising. We wish Nina all the best for the future. In the meantime, Buty winemaker, Chris Dowsett has been working at Dusted Valley since summer.

Dennis Murphy and Marty Clubb Named Wine's Most Inspiring People

The Wine Industry Advisor has named Dennis Murphy, owner-winemaker of Caprio Cellars one of "Wine's Most Inspiring People" for his leadership, innovation and inspiration. He has been a leader in the community, especially with the Blue Mountain Action Council. Caprio Cellars is known as an outstanding winery whose wines have scored highly in the Review of Washington Wines. One innovation has been the winery's Sunday Supper to go program. We have ordered a Sheperd's pie meal to be picked up along with a bottle of Caprio wine.

Also named one of "Wine's Most Inspiring People" is Marty Cbubb, managing winemaker of L'Ecole No 41. In addition to his career at L'Ecole since 1989, Marty has been instrumental in forming the Walla Walla Valley Wine alliance and has been an advisor to the Walla Walla Community College Center for Enology and Viticulture.

Paul Gregutt Leaves Wine Enthusiast and Starts a Digital Publication

Recently, Paul Gregutt announced that he was leaving the Wine Enthusiast Magazine to start his own online publication. He will continue to contribute occasional articles to the Wine Enthusiast. Of his new venture, Paul states "...by doing so, I gain the kind of journalistic freedom that can never exist in a work-for-hire environment." On Facebook, I commented: "Great idea! It's better to be independent than to be beholden to a publication with its own rules."  The new publication is called Paul G on Wine (Paulgwine.com) and features wine reviews and in person tastings and interviews.

Echolands Opens a Tasting Room Downtown

Echolands Winery, started by Brad Bergman and Doug Frost in 2018 on Issacs Avenue, has opened a tasting room on 7 West Alder Street in the historic Drumheller Building. The hours of operation are Thursday through Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. Taylor Oswald, an 11 year veteran of Walla Walla winemaking is the winemaker. I have made an appointment to visit the tasting room and will be reviewing the wines in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

Wine Deal of the Month: 2019 Basel Cellars Merlot

Since last summer when the property was sold to Yellowhawk Resort, Basel Cellars has been closing out its wine to focus solely on the new owners' sparkling wines. Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle has purchased the 2019 Basel Cellars Walla Walla Valley Merlot and is selling it for less than half price. At $15.99 a bottle, it's a deal that's not to be missed.

2019 Basel Cellars Merlot, Walla Walla Valley (Esquin - $15.99 - Regular $42) - Sourced from the Double River and Pheasant Run vineyards, this offers a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, rose petals, mulberry, sweet tobacco, cedar, black olive and stick incense. The flavors are ample yet deep and focused, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder and silty minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed fruits, framboise and kirsch liqueurs, roasted pecans, graphite and moderate integrated oak, followed by a lingering, vigorous yet smooth tannin finish that is lifted by balance fruit acids. Almost a 19 point wine. 18.5+/20 points.

Kicking Off the New Year

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 05 January 2022

To start off the New Year, here's what we did.

New Year's Eve for Lynn and me was low keyed, no big parties. We had a variety of caviars - trout roe, salmon roe and sturgeon roe - smoked salmon and patés with a bottle of Frederic Savart "L'Accomplie" Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut given to us by Iowa friends Feff Freude and Laurie Wolf. When the ball came down in New York's Time Square we called it a new year.

New Year's Day, we hosted our neighbors, Connie and Mauro (Assaggio Restaurant) Golmarvi and Chris and Jim Bohnsack for dinner. We started off with Frederic Magnien Crèmant de Bourgogne and Pittaro Metodo Classico with Oysters Rockefeller, supplied by the Bohnsacks. With roasted chicken thighs and vegetables we had two superb Red Burgundies, a 2019 Michel Magnien Morey-St. Denis Premier Cru, Climats d'Or and 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Sentiers. The Golmarvi brought delicious raisin cake with College Cellars Merlot Ice Wine.

The day after, January 2, we got together with the Golmarvis and Bohnsacks for a dinner with eight other guests at the Green Gables which is being refurbished by Connie and her sister, Karrie into what will be a stunning b & b and dinner locale. The Pittaro Italian bubbly  and Gilles Nicault's 2009 Copinet Champagne were poured along with Judy Jamison's tasty red pepper bruschetta and Robin Levinthal's delicious salmon paté. Gilles also brought magnums of Coté Nicault Grenache, Long Shadows Feather Cabernet Sauvignon. Ron and Judy Jamison took a trio of tasty Paso Robles reds from where they used to live. The Bohnsacks took a Proper Reserve Syrah. We took a bottle of 2017 Cayuse Edith Rosé (holding up beautifully) and two superb Red Burgundies from Louis Jadot, a 2015 Morey-St. Denis Premier Cru and 2015 Corton Pougets Grand Cru. Gilles and his mother, Christianne who sat across from us loved them. Mauro prepared a delicious pasta bolognese and grilled chicken dishes and Vinny and Patty Bauer brought an apple tart that was to die for. Great wine, food and friends to start off the year with. Thanks to Mauro, Connie and Karrie for getting this together.

Looking Ahead to 2022

Details

Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 28 December 2021

It's anybody's guess as to what 2022 will hold for the wine industry. Much will depend on what the impact of the COVID-19 Omicron variant will be. We'll just have to wait and see what happens. A surge in new COVID cases will be certain to have an effect, maybe even a shutdown like that which occurred in 2020. Many wineries have already shut down for the winter and will reopen in spring.

In the meantime, wineries are taking care of the 2021 vintage which looks promising. And there will be plenty of new wines to be released in 2022. Also, we will continue to review more winter releases, including Golden Ridge Cellars and explore wineries we haven't reviewed before, including Category 5 in Woodinville and Van Arnam Vineyards in Zillah whose wines we recently discovered.

New Wines Tasted Recently

N.V. Graham Beck Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, West Cape ($19.99 - wine.com) - This South Africa bubbly is composed of 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay and made by "Method Cap Classique." It shows a copper tinged pink color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, orange, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant (disgorged April 2021) with red fruits that are accented by grape skins and cherry stones. On the beck, the wine enlivens with fraise and cherry liqueurs and CO2 in the Brut finish. 18.5/20 points. 

N.V. MAN Family Wines Brut Sparkling Wine, Cap Classique Brut ($20.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this presents streaming bubbles and rich aromas of pear, peach, orange peel, custard and orange incense. The flavors are fresh, bright and well textured (12 months on lees) with notes of grape and pear skins and peach stones. The wine enlivens on the back with pear and peach liqueurs, CO2 and recurring orange peel, followed by a biscuit, creamy yet brisk finish. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Frederic Magnien Crémant de Bourgogne, Blanc de Noir Extra Brut ($26.99 - wine.com) - This displays a light lemon-gold color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of strawberry, pear-apple, pink cherry, apple blossoms, sweet pea flowers and white incense. The flavors are fresh and resonant, with pink and white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, cherry stones and granitic minerals. The back is enlivened by the CO2 and brisk fruit acids on the Extra Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Reserve Exclusive ($47) - This Champagne displays a brilliant lemon-gold color, frothy bubbles and fragrant aromas of pear-apple, peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, wisteria, brioche and white incense. The flavors are bright and mouth encompassing, with yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and saline minerals. On the back, the wine amplifies, w`ith pressed fruits, lees, recurring brioche and then turns brisk, with bright fruit acids and CO2, followed by a true Brut finish. Purchased at Safeway for $33.83. 19/20 points.

N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine, Anderson Valley ($35) - This California combination of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay offers a brilliant lemon-gold color, streaming bubbles and aromas of pear-apple, white peach, Key lime, apple blossoms, lemon verbena and whiffs of vanillin and white incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and North Coast minerals. The resonance continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs, lime zest and touches of brioche and toasty oak on the brisk finish. Purchased for $23.99 at Albertson's. 18.5/20 points.

N.V. Scharffrenberger Brut Excellence Rosé Sparkling Wine, Mendocino County ($25.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant copper-pink colored, this offers pinpoint bubbles and lovely aromas of wild strawberry, pink cherry, blood orange, cherry and orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and North Coast minerals. The wine enlivens on the back with fraise and cerise liqueurs, recurring orange peel and CO2 on the way to a nicely fruited Brut finish. "Delicious!" says Lynn. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre ($39 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Previous vintages have been our go-to Sancerre. This vintage shows a light lemon-gold color and enticing aromas of green apple, white peach, lime, apple blossoms, meadow flowers and whiff of spiced white incense. The flavors are soft and rich, yet bracing and dynamic, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and calcareous minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lime zest, followed by a lingering ultra precise finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Macon Villages, "Clos Saint Pancras" ($26.99 - wine.com) - From a grower in Pierreclos, this is a cut above the usual Maconnais. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear-apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are bright and lively, true Chardonnay, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and limestone minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp, finely fruited, well defined finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Henry Fessy Beaujolais-Villages, Vieilles Vignes ($13.99 - wine.com) - This an amiable yet serious Beaujolais. It shows a ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry and red currant, with scents of rosebuds, tobacco, mulberry and hillside brush. The flavors are ample yet deep (from 60 year-old vines) with notes of licorice, cocoa, herbal tea and minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. A bargain at $13.99. 18+/20 points.

2019 Maison L'Envoyé, "Terre de Thé" ($18.99 - wine.com) - This an attractive Cru Beaujolais. It displays a brick red color and ripe aromas of strawberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, tobacco leaf and whiffs of spiced incense. The flavors are generous yet muscular, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a rich, juicy moderate tannin finish. "It's lovely - fresh and pleasant," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay, Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands ($30) - This is a Wagner Family (Caymus) product. It displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Asian pear-apple, white peach, Key lime, apple blossoms, honeysuckle and green incense. The flavors are bright and lively, with notes of grape and pear skins and Santa Lucia Highlands minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of crème fraiche, toasty oak and nougat, followed by a lengthy balanced finish. "Wow," says Lynn. When purchased for $19.99, this overdelivers. 19/20 points.

2019 Sea-Sun Vineyard Pinot Noir, California ($30) - Made by Charlie Wagner, this also overdelivers. Composed of 94% Monterey County and 3% each of Solano and San Luis obispo counties, this offers a deep brick red color and an intense nose of black cherries, black currants, black plums, black roses, sweet pea flowers and sweet incense. The wine brims with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and wind-blown earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, kirsch and creme de cassis on the way to a supple yet vigorous moderate tannin finish. Purchased for $19.99 at Safeway. !8.5/20 points.

2019 Chalone Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir, Chalone AVA ($29.99 - wine.com) - This is a tasty Pinot Noir. Brick red colored, it emits intoxicating aromas of wild fruits - fraises de bois, cranberry, black currants - with scents of crushed roses, bayberry, sweet tobacco and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously generous and mouth filling yet focused, with lavish red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, black tea and Gavilan Mountain limestone minerals. The back reveals macerated berries, roasted hazelnuts, fraise and cerise liqueurs and soft charcoaL, followed by a suave yet precise moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2019 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Freestone Vineyards ($49.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this possesses a rich nose of wild strawberries, old tree cherries, red currants, crushed roses, swwwt tobacco, sandalwood and sweet incense. The flavors are simultaneously vigorous, mouth filling and and velvety, with red fruits that are interwoven with red licorice, cocoa powder, Earl Grey tea and dusty earth and stones. The sensuousness continues on the back with pressed fruits, fraise and cassis liqueurs and lanolin ("legs"). The finish is warm (14.19% alcohol) but balanced by fruit acids on the lengthy ripe sweetish tannin finish. 19+/20 points.