Coming up in October & November / New Rosès

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 18 September 2021

Coming up in October & November

This weekend, I am wrapping up the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line Friday, September 24. It will be almost entirely about wines from wineries in the Walla Walla Valley, including Abeja, Walla Walla Vintners, L'Ecole No 41, Kontos Cellars, Yellowhawk Bubbles, Saviah Cellars, Vital, Brook & Bull and Pepper Bridge. It was't originally planned that way. We had planned a trip to Woodinville with a stop in Prosser but that got postponed. I was also going to include wines from Kerloo Cellars and DeLille Cellars, but the frenzy of this year's early harvest made the wineries too busy to ship wines, so they are going to be in the November issue, along with Convergence Zone Cellars, Guardian and others. From the Walla Walla Valley, there will new releases from Aluvé, Balboa and Canvasback.

More New Rosés

While Summer will be officially over in a couple of days, it's never too late to drink Rosé wines. Here are a couple of Washington Rosé bargains and a couple from France's Côtes de Provence region, plus one from Monterey, California.

2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rosé Wine, Columbia Valley ($15) - Light copper-pink colored, this possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pink currants, pink rosed and pink lavender, with deliciously up front bright fruits and a pleasing, Provence-Like dry finish. A steal at $10.99. 18+/20 points. A full review to be in the October issue.

2020 Waterbrook Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley ($15) - This shows a light copper-tinged pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine and cherry and orange blossoms. The flavors are light yet deft, with grape skins, cherry stones a minerals, followed on the back with lightly pressed fruits and light alcohol (11.5%). Purchased for $9.99. 18/20 points. Full review in October.

2020 Château Saint-Michel d'Esclans Côtes de Provence Rosé ($13.99 - Albertson's) - This displays a brilliant copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, tangerine, pink roses, orange blossoms and pink lavender. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with pink and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins and minerals. The back reveals fraise liqueur, pomegranate seeds and a twist of orange peel on the dry, nicely fruited finish. Terrific value. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Château Sainte Roseline, Côtes de Provence Rosé ($18.99 - Albertson's) - This comes in an unusual bulb footed bottle and is a real charmer. It shows a light copper-pink color and aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are appealing as well, with fresh, lively fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Provençal hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and a twist of orange peel on the way to a brisk, nicely fruited finish. "Very pleasant," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Diora "La Belle Fête" Rosé of Pinot Noir, Monterey ($13.49, Regular $20 - Albertson's) - This is a surprise winner that I picked up at the Walla Walla Albertson's. It presents a light pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pink currants, pink roses, cherry blossoms and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are surprisingly mouth filling, with exquisite pink fruits that are accented by Pinot Noir grape skins, cherry stones and Monterey hillside minerals. The appeal continues on the back with fraise, cerise and cassis liqueurs and deft fruit acids and balanced alcohol (12.0%) on the lingering, lively finish. "Delicious!" says Lynn, jaw-dropping at the price, 3 stars, highest rating. 19/20 points.

Esquin Specials / Pouilly-Fuissé

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 06 September 2021

Esquin Specials

If you subscribe to Esquin Wine & Spirits emails, you will receive messages almost every day offering special deals that are not to be missed. Most of them are written by Arnie Millan, the Wine Buyer or David LeClaire, the Wine Ambassador. Here are some recent offerings that I had shipped to me.

2020 Celilo Falls Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($12.99 - Regular $17) - Produced from organically grown grapes, this shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of pear-apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms and whiffs of butterscotch and white incense. The flavors are well fruited, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up pear liqueur and lemon zse, followed by a crisp finish. 18/20 points.

2020 Basel Cellars "Old Vine" Chenin Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills, McKinley Springs Vineyard ($19.99 - Regular $30) - This presents a light lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, Casaba melon, citrus, pear blossoms, honeysuckle, lemongrass and green incense. The flavors are bright and vivid, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and saline minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and lime zest, followed by a well fruited dry finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Boomtown Syrah, Columbia Valley ($14.99 - Regular: $21) - Produced by Dusted Valley, this offers deep ruby color and rich aromas of blackberry, cranberry, currant, black roses, sweet tobacco, sagebrush and spiced incense. The flavors are direct and varietally correct, with notes of licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and earth. On the back, the wine turns generously textured with pressed fruits, roasted nuts and preserves, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points."Way overdelivers," says David LeClaire. 

2020 Domaine de la Jousselinère Rosé, Val de Loire ($12.99 - Regular: $18.99) - Produced from the Gamay grape, grape, this displays a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currant, tangerine, pink roses, cherry and orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with fresh, light fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and alluvial minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a pleasing dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Moulin de la Roque Bandol Rosé ($24.99 - Regular: $31.99) - This is a lovely Rosé. Composed of 52% Mourvèdre, 22% Grenache and 26% Cinsault, it displays a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, red currant, watermelon and tangerine. with scents of pink roses, pink lavender and orange incense. The flavors are vivid and mouth filling, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seed and calcareous minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs, melon rind and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a lingering deliciously juicy yet dry finish. 19/20 points. "My favorite Rosé of the year,' says David.

2020 Marquis de Goulaine Chinon "Haut Presle" ($17.99 - Regular $21.99) - This is a bright young Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. It displays a purplish-ruby color and aromas of black raspberry, cherry, blueberry, black roses, juniper berry, sage and incense. The flavors are thick and generous, with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and alluvial minerals. The appeal continues on the back with macerated berries, toasted almonds, framboise and cerise liqueurs, followed by a juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. "Drop dead gorgeous," says Arnie Millan. 

2019 Yohan Lardy Moulin-a-Vent, "Les Michelons" ($23.99 - Regular: $27.99) - This Cru Beaujolais features a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currants, crushed roses, bayberry and wild violets. The flavors are supple yet vigorous, with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed berries, roasted nuts, mocha and crème de cassis, followed by a savory, ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Saint-Galet Châteauneuf du Pape ($24.99 - Regular $29.99) - Composed of 80% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre and 8% Syrah, this displays a deep purplish-ruby color and seductive aromas of raspberries, black currants and plums with scents of crushed roses, sweet tobacco, garrigue, wild violets and spiced incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet mouth filling, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. On the back, the wine thickens with framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha and soft charcoal, followed by a supple ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points. "I'll buy a case," says Arnie.

2020 Muga Rioja Rosé ($17.99 - Regular: $19.99) - This Spanish Rosé is produced from Garnacha and Viura with 5 hours maceration. It shows a light copper-apricot color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, orange peel, cherry and orange blossoms and whiffs of orange incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and saline minerals. The appeal continues on the back with sensations of strawberry and cherry liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a dry, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Fuso Terre Siciliane Red Wine, "Vini Quotidiana" ($15.99 - Regular: $18.99) - "Vini Quotidiana" means "Daily Wine." Produced from Nero d'Avola and a a bit of white grapes, this is a tasty young red. It shows a brick red color and rich aromas of raspberries, cherries, plums, red roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco, oregano and incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with ripe red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa and limestone minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, raspberry liqueur and plum preserves followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points. "Outstanding example of a bravura wine," says Arnie.

Pouilly-Fuissé

Pouilly-Fuissé was one of Dr. Frasier Crane's favorite wines. It is one our favorites, too. It comes from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy and is produced entirely from the Chardonnay grape. The sloped vineyards are nestled under the granite outcroppings of the Rocs de Soulutré (which we climbed in 2014) and Vergisson. It is the limestone soil that makes Pouilly-Fuissé distinctive. There are excellent Pouilly-Fuissés from Burgundian négociants such as Louis Jadot and Louis Latour, but the best ones come from individual vignerons and come from old vines. Here are three examples that I purchased from wine.com.

2018 Dominique Cornin Pouilly-Fuissé, "Les Chevrières" ($41.99) - From a grower in Chaintré, this offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and lovely aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, Casaba melon, pear tree blossoms, verbena, lemongrass and green incense. The flavors are vivid, almost laser-like, with yellow and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and limestone minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and lemon zest, followed by a slightly nutted finish, marked by precise fruit acids. 19/20 points.

2018 Domaine Saumaize-Michelin Pouilly-Fuissé, "Vignes Blanches" ($43.99) - From a grower in Vergisson, this displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, white peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and green incense. The flavors are exquisitely wrought, pure Chardonnay, with notes of grape skin, peach stones and calcareous minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of creme fraiche and almonds, followed by a lingering, precise finish. 19/20 points.

2018 Château Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé, "Tête de Cuvée" ($44.99) - From select parcels, this is an exquisite Pouilly-Fuissé. It displays a brilliant gold color and perfumed aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, Crenshaw melon, citrus, pear blossoms, acacia flowers (a trait of Mâconnais), lemon verbena and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are silky yet well delineated, with varietal purity, marked by peach stones and minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and oak, followed by an, again, exquisite finish. 19/20 points.

The Walla Walla Shindig / New & Revisited Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 August 2021

The Walla Walla Shindig

Last Saturday, August 28, we attended the First Annual Walla Walla Shindig, a dinner and auction event to benefit the Blue Mountain Community Foundation, Vital Wins which provides medical care to winery and vineyard workers, the Institute for Enology and Viticulture of the Walla Walla Community College, and the Wine Country Culinary Institute. It was a great event to support community programs. It raised $165,000 packages including trade (Alaska Airlines), winery tours and dinners, and more. Money was also raised by participants' donations.

The event was held at the Yellowhawk Resort, formerly Basel Cellars, on the Old Milton Highway. Dinner was preceded by bubbles from Yellowhawk, and the five course dinner was accompanied by wines from featured wineries. Three hundred guests, seated at 30 tables of 10 each, attended, spread out on the patio and lawn of the Resort. All this was executed with large platters of food for each course, a monumental task for such a large gathering. Kudos to Dan Thiesen, co-owner of Yellowhawk, for coordinating this event. 

Here are the wines poured for each course.

Course One: Yellowhawk White and Rosé Bubbles with Prawn and Melon salad and pickled chili. 

Course Two: 2018 Vital Chardonnay, French Creek and 2020 Pepper Bridge Sauvignon Blanc with Pazanella, local beans and crab.

Course Three: Summer Salmon and corn salad with 2019 Woodward Canyon Barbera, a combination that worked surprisingly well.

Course Four: Beef Tenderloin with 2018 Valdemar Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley.

Dessert: Trio of Poached Peach, Lemon Curd and Chocolate Cream Tart with 2019 Long Shadows Poet's Leap Riesling. 

There will be a Second Annual Walla Walla Shindig in August, 2022 to look forward too.

New and Revisited Wines Tasted Recently

Over the past few weeks, we've been going through new wines and revisiting some we've had before.

2020 Bastide du Claux Luberon Rose, "Poudière" ($22 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Brilliant light copper-pink colored, this possessed enticing aromas of pink peach, tangerine, pomegranate, pink roses, orange blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are light and sprightly, with notes of grape skins and Mont Luberon minerals. On the back, the wine freshens up with peach and orange liqueurs and pomegranate seeds, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Chêne Bleu "Le Rosé," Vaucluse ($27 - The Thief) - Composed of 79% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault and 1% Rolle, this presents a brilliant copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, tangerine, red currant, blueberry and a bit of mango, with scents of pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are simultaneously delicate and precisely extracted, with notes of grape and currant skins and Vaucluse minerals. The charm continues on the back with gently pressed fruits, fraise liqueur and tangerine peel, followed by a lingering balanced finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Château Pradeaux Bandol Rosé ($37 - The Thief) - From near Toulon, this is a striking Rosé. It displays copper color and an exotic nose of fraises de bois, musk melon, blood orange, papaya, orange blossoms, lavender and spiced orange incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins and minerals. The back picks up fraise and Grand Marnier liqueurs and melon and orange rinds, followed by a lingering, viscous yet dry finish. "Delicious," says Lynn, three stars (highest rating). My score: 19/20 points.

2018 Domaine de la Grosse Pierre Chiroubles, "Claudius" ($27 - The Thief) - This Cru Beaujolais offers a deep purple-ruby color and attractive aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, red roses, lilac and whiffs of sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously silky yet well delineated, with red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and hillside minerals. The appeal continues on the back with framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of toasted nuts and  mocha, followed by a smooth, ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.  

Wines revisited:

2017 Tapteil "Artist" Syrah, Yakima Valley, Spilya Vineyard ($40) - The Pearsons have sold the Tapteil Vineyard on Red Mountain to Avennia, but have kept the Spylia Vineyard on the west slope outside the Red Mountain AVA. This vintage shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors are ample yet deep with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate, French roast and earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, creme de cassis and blueberry preserves, followed by a lingering sweetish tannin finish. 19/20 points. Reviewed July, 2021.

2016 Louis Jadot Monthèlie, "Sous Roches" - We had this on International Pinot Noir Day (August 18). It's a real charmer. It shows a medium brick red color and perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, red currants, rose petals, cherry blossoms, orange peel, hillside bushes, sandalwood and sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied and alluring, with red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, pekoe tea and granitic minerals. The back picks up gently pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs orange peel and soft charcoal, followed by a satiny moderate tannin and acid finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chignard Fleurie "Les Moriers" - We bought this (about $25) when we were collecting Beaujolais from the great 2027 vintage. It shows a deep ruby color and aromas of fraises de bois, cerise, cassis, crushed roses, wildflowers, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied and charming, with velvety red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder and hillside minerals. The allure continues own the back with gently pressed fruits, creme de cassis and toffee, followed by a ripe, smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage "La Guiraude" - We purchased this a few years ago (about $56) and it's just coming around. It displays a semi opaque purple-ruby color and an intense nose of black currants, black cherries, black plums, black roses, dark sweet tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, pure Syrah, yet accessible, with lavish dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French press and stony minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, kirsch and creme de cassis. all followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

What is Sauvignon Blanc?

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 22 August 2021

Sauvignon Blanc is widely thought of being a Bordeaux grape variety. They usually come in the high shouldered Bordeaux style bottles and the name Sauvignon Blanc sounds Bordeaux-like. Actually, the grape originated further north, in the Loire Valley. It not a white mutant of Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather, Sauvignon Blanc, crossed with Cabernet Franc, is the parent of Cabernet Sauvignon. As Cabernet Sauvignon grew in popularity in Bordeaux, so did Sauvignon Blanc for white wines. 

Sauvignon Blancs can be categorized into two main styles: Loire and Bordeaux. The former in sloped bottles and the latter in high shouldered ones. The Bordeaux style ones are sometimes blended with Semillon, the other principal white grape of Bordeaux. It is in the Loire Valley that Sauvignon Blanc is produced as a stand alone varietal. In Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, it is known as Blanc Fumé and the ones from Pouilly are called Pouilly-Fumé.  Sauvignon Blanc was introduced to California in the late 19th Century where it made good but not highly impressive wines. But in in the 1970's Robert Mondavi visited the Loire Valley after a trip to Bordeaux and fell in love with the Sauvignon Blancs of Pouilly and Sancerre and he began making a wine from select clones which he called Pouilly-Fumé. The Mondavis no longer own the winery, but a Pouilly-Fumé is still made from grapes grown at the Oakville Estate vineyard.

There are seven Sauvignon Blancs in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines here is how they fall into these two categories, along with some others recently tasted.

Loire Style

2020 Woodward Canyon Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Walla Walla Valley ($29) - Like Robert Mondavi, Rick Small visited the Loire Valley and fell in love with Sauvignon Blancs. This version shows wonderful purity. Reviewed September. 19/20 points.

2020 Browne Family Vineyards Bitner Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($24) - Also bottled in a sloped bottle, this is a fine value when purchased for $16.99. Reviewed September. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County ($18) - Ferrari-Carano was an early adopter of Fumé Blanc after Mondavi. This one shows a brilliant straw color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear and orange blossoms, lemongrass and cut herbs. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. A super buy at $13.99. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Dominique Roger Sancerre, Domaine du Carrou Sancerre ($29.99 - wine.com) - From a respected grower in Bué, this offers a brilliant gold color with aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, pear tree blossoms, jasmine, lemongrass and flintstone. The flavors are almost laser-like, with a beam of bright fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and chalky minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lime zest, followed by a persistently mineraly finish. 18.5/20 points.

2019 Domaine Nicolas Gaudry Pouilly-Fumé ($22.99 - wine.com) - Today, Sancerre commands higher prices than for those from across the Loire River. This one shows a straw-gold color and slightly smoky aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, Crenshaw melon, pear blossoms, lemon verbena, jasmine and green incense. The flavors are vibrant and crisp yet viscous, with white and green fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and chalky minerals. On the back, the wine takes an elegant turn with pear and peach liqueurs and precisely balanced fruit acids. Great value compared to the more trendy Sancerre. 18.5+/20 points.

2019 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre ($39 - The Thief, Walla Walla and Esquin) - Reverdy is our go-to Sancerre. Very precise and finely fruited, it scores 19/20 points. Reviewed in the March 10 Blog posting below.

2020 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($16.99 - Safeway) - New Zealand is another country producing fine Sauvignon Blancs, particularly from the Marlborough region. This one features a light lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, lemon, guava, kiwi, quince, verbena, cut grass and green incense. The flavors are crisp and laser-like, with notes of grape and pear skins and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear liqueur, lemon zest and tropical juices followed by a dry, fruity finish. 18+/20 points.

Bordeaux Style

2020 Three Rivers Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, Red Mountain, Artz Vineyard ($38) - This 67%, 33% combination is modeled after a fine White Bordeaux such as a Graves Blanc. Reviewed September.  19/20 points. 

2020 Seven Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($20) - The grape composition is not specified, but it comes on Bordeaux-like. September issue. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Seven Hills Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($30) - From hand-picked hillside vineyards, this shows considerable complexity. Reviewed September, 19/20 points.

2020 Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($12) - Crisply-styled, this is a super value at $7.99. 18+/20 points. 

2020 Novelty Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($20) - Another fine value when purchased for $15.99. 18+/20 points.