I take an analytical approach to evaluating wines and writing reviews of them. This is the basis of the UC Davis 20 Point system (see my Review blog of 25 January, 2012) which evaluates wines qualitatively on their components (Clarity, Color, Bouquet etc.) on a score sheet. Recently, I attended Ann Noble's class on Sensory Evaluation of Wines at the Walla Walla Community College. There, we explored the evaluation of wines through aromas and other components. This is what wine tasting is all about.

 

Wines have a series of components which comprise a begining, middle and end. There is color, then aromas (what the taster smells), then flavor (body, texture, taste), then the back (which comprises mostly of aromas that come to the olfactory nerves though the back of the nose), and then the finish (acidity, tannins, sweetness or dryness).

 

For me, writing about wine means putting these components into words, from beginning to end. It is like writing a paragraph (as we learned in grade school). The paragraph sentence describes the wine's overall impression and the other sentences amplify that. Here is an example from one of my recent (June issue) reviews.

 

2009 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($45)

Composed of 79% Cabernet, with 14% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and a rich, intense nose of blackberry, cherry, cassis, roast chestnuts, dried rose petals, herbs and oriental incense. [This describes the composition of the wine and the initial components, color and aroma.] The flavors are deep and penetrating, wrapped around a deep core, marked by black licorice, graphite, minerals and roasted coffee beans. [This describes the flavors and body/texture.] The back picks up notes of dried cherries and orange peel, roasted nuts [sensed by the olfactory nerves on the back nose] and a thrust of scorched earth on the lingering toasty oak laced and spiced (coriander, cardamom) medium-full tannin finish. [This describes the components tasted on the back of the tongue, bitterness/astingency.] All this combines depth and elegance in an impressive package. 19.5/20 points. [This is the overall impression, and the score is a qualitative evaluation. This can be considered the "paragraph sentence.].

 

Below is another example, a "Best Buy" review to appear in the upcoming July issue.

 

2011 Maison Bleue "La Famille" Rosé of Mourvedre, Yakima Valley ($20)

I had this wine in a blind tasting and it came in close to a Bandol Rosé (also Mourvedre), for which it was a dead ringer. Pale pink-copper colored, it emits an intriguing nose of wild raspberry, Rainier cherry, orange peel, jamine, dried rose petals and a whiff of spice. The palate reveals precisely balanced dried fruits, recurring orange peel and melon rind, that lead seamlessly into a back that ix given texture from glycerin and grape skin on a deftly spiced lingering finish. 19/20 points.

 

Here, the first sentence (paragraph sentence) gives the overall quality, comparing the wine to a Bandol. The rest of the paragraph describes the wine's components from the beginning, though the middle, and on to the finish. This is the formula for all my reviews.