Last night, I conducted a tasting of 2007 Washington Syrahs for Lynn's "Art Class" group. The first four wines were from the Helix by Reininger Phinny Hill Clonal Selection Collection which was purchased at the winery four years ago. I spotted it in its presentation wood box, and I decided it would be a good time to taste the wines. Here is what the accompanying sheet said:

The Helix Clonal Selection Collection (CSC) is the result of a desire to share and educate through experience and adventure. It is comprised of four unique Syrah wines sourced from the Phinny Hill Vineyards owned and mangaged by Dick and Cheryl Beightol. Three are 100% from each of separate clones and the fourth is an equal blend of the three clones. This presentation affords the knowledge and expreience of the "parts" and the "sum" of the Helix 2007 Phinny Hill CSC Syrah.

What is a clone? In viticultural terms, it's a population of vines which are theoretically geneticaly identical, having been propagated vegitatively (i.e. from cane cuttings, not by seeds) which are descendants of a single mother plant in an effort to isolate a specific trait(s).

Clone 174: Origin - Drôme, France. Low cluster weight and lower yield, medium sugar, good balance, cherry fruit flavors, often rated first in Hermitage tastings, overall A rating.

Clone 470: Origin - Tran et Garonne, France. Lower fertility, low cluster weight with loose architecture (open clusters, which discourages fungal disease), higher sugar, full bodied, higher acidity, can be floral, good color, later ripening, often rated first in Hermitage tastings, overall A rating.

Clone Noir: Origin - France, origins are more abiguous because several Syrah clones are referred to as Noir, but this one is believed to be from Hermitage. Dark color (Black Syrah as the name implies), earthy, rustic, spice, more tannic, higher sugar, concentrated.

This unique syrah offering is a wonderful adventure into the world of wine. Enjoy the experience with friends as you explore and evaluate the clonal traits of these wines and discover the symbiotic relationship in the Helix Phinny Hill CSC.

ph Titratable Acidity Cooperage

Clone 174 3.91             .58 g/100ml                 Neutral barrels

Clone 470 3.90             .62 g/100ml                 Neutral barrels

Clone Noir 3.98             .57 g/100ml                 Neutral barrels

CSC 3.92             .50 g/100ml                 Neutral barrels

Here are my notes on the clonal selections tasted and the final blended product.

Clone 174 - Ruby garnet colored, this had a rich, spicy, peppery nose, and notes of roasted berries and windblow earth. The back picked up toasted nuts and fine fruit acids, followed by a spiced, herbed lingering finish, with tannins that were smoothing out.  18.5/20 points.

Clone 470 - This showed a deep ruby colr and an intense, somewhat spiritous nose, with scents of attar of rose, garrigue and violets. The full bodied flavors came on vigorously, and the back showed notes of pressed fruits and well structured acids, all leading into a long finish. 18.5+/20 points.

Clone Noir - Deep brilliant ruby colored, this showed sultry, smoky aromas of roasted berries, garrigue and burnt brambles. The somewhat rustic flavors were deep and rich, with notes of roasted coffee and wind blown earth. The back revealed touches of leather and dried orange peel, followed by a lingering, spicy finish. 18.5/20 points.

CSC Blend - This blend of the three clones showed a deep, brilliant ruby color and a sultry nose of roasted berries, garrigue and smoldering oriental incense. The flavors were rich and deep, untermixed with savory fruits, coffee grounds, Phinny Hill gravel and earth, followed by a long finish, with fruits and tannins smoothing out and melding into an integrated whole, adding up to more than the sum of its parts. 19/20 points.

We also had two more 2007 Syrahs, both from the Walla Walla Valley.

2007 Spring Valley Vineyard "Nina Lee" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - This displayed a deep medium ruby-garnet color and a smoky, earthy, spicy nose of semi-dried raspberries, cherries and cassis, dried roses and cigar wrapper. The medium full bodied flavors were deep and penetrating, with notes of chocolate, licorice and earth. On the back bright fruit acids emerged to give heft to the long, spicy finiah. 19/20 points.

2007 Kerloo Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - This was Ryan Crane's first vintage, released in 2010. Composed of 80% Va Piano and 20% Les Collines Syrah, it showed a deep ruby color and an intense, seemingly young nose of ripe fruits - blackberry, blueberry and cassis - with some maturing scents of dried roses, burnt brambles and incense. The flavors came on with a distinct vibrancy, with deep fruits, intermixed with chocolate and minerals. Bright fruit acids also added vigor to the lingering spiced finish. It could easily go another 5 or 10 years. 19+/20 points.

Also, a 2008 Syrah from one of Cayuse's vineyards in the "Rocks of Milton-Freewater," La Paciencia.

2008 No Girls Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, La Paciencia Vineyard - This showed a semi-opaque ruby color and intense aromas of roasted berries and semi-dried fruits, burnt brambles and smoldering incense. On the palate the flavors were robust and deeply earthy, with that indelible "Rocks" funk. The rich earthiness extended on through the back, along with roasted berries and nuts, all culminating in a lingering spiced and herbed finish. 19+/20 points.

No Review Blog Next Week

On Friday, January 16th, Lynn and I will be leaving Walla Walla for a winter getaway in Hawaii, on the island of Oahu. We will be returning January 24th, and the next Blog will be on 26th, along with the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines.