How I Began Reviewing Adams Bench Wines

It was on March 14, 2009 that we first visited the Adams Bench Winery in Woodinville. We had heard about it from other winemakers in the area, so we decided to check it out. Visits were by appointment only, so we scheduled a time. When we arrived, we were greeted by Erica Blue, co-owner (with husband Tim Blue) and winemaker. We sat at a table in front of the barrel room and winemaking equipment crammed into the small winery below the Blues' home on Hollywood Hill above Woodinville. The first releases were the 2006 "Reckoning" Red Wine and the 2006 "the V" Cabernet Sauvignon. They were reviewed in the April 2009 issue of the Review of Washington Wines, with scores of 18.5/20 points for the Reckoning and 19/20 points for "the V," highly respectable scores for the winery's second vintage (a limited bottling of a 2005 red blend had been released in 2008). 

The following year, we revisited Adams Bench to taste the newly released 2007 vintage. I found the Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon to be the first wine to score 20/20 points in the Review of Washington Wines. I wrote, "It is not a 'blockbuster' in the sense of weight and depth. But it is one of the most highly nuanced and harmonious wines I have ever tasted. I seen 40 minutes analyzing this at the winery in Woodinville." In scoring the wine, the clincher was the 4 out of 4 points for overall quality, "Wines of 'noble' quality with distinct and distinguishing character." Here is the full review:

2007 Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard - This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, from a block planted in 1999, exhibits a deep ruby color with rose edges, and a gorgeous nose of blackberries, cassis, crushed roses, exotic perfumes, lavender and spiced ripe berries. On the entry, a silky array of flavors fans out on the palate: ripe, lightly toasted fruits, sweet-dry berries, orange peel, vanilla bean, licorice, coffee, cocoa powder and minerals. The deep and seamless back palate adds even more complexity with traces of burnt sugar, mocha, dustings of clove and nutmeg and a sense of cinnamon bark. A dribble on the back of the tongue reveals tones of pomegranate juice and a precise juxtaposition of fruit acids, textures, tannins, etc. on a long, long finish. The fine-grained tannins are evident, suggesting 2-10 years aging, but are so satiny as to be unobtrusive. 20/20 points.

Over the years, I reviewed subsequent vintages from Adams Bench. Many of the wines scored 19.5/20 or 20/20 points. Such consistency is remarkable for any winery. Recently, I pulled out a couple of 2009 wines to see how they were showing. Here are my notes. 

2009 Adams Bench "Artz & Shaw" Red Wine, Red Mountain - Composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, this showed a deep ruby color and an opulent bouquet of semi dried dark fruits, crushed roses, brandied cherries, pipe tobacco and smoldering oriental incense. At nine plus years of age (stored at 57 degrees F) it still showed vivid fruit, rich and fleshy yet deep and penetrating, with notes of licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and Red Mountain scorched earth. The velvety yet chewy textured back picked up semi dried fruits, roasted chestnuts and mocha, followed by a savory long finish. 19+/20 points. Reviewed August 2012 - 19+/20 points.

2009 Adams Bench Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard - This vintage displayed a deep ruby color and an intense bouquet of blackberries, old tree cherries, plums, cassis, attar of rose, sweet tobacco, cedar, vanillin, anise and exotic incense. The flavors were thick and muscular, almost massive yet refined, infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French press coffee and alluvial minerals. The wine intensified on the back with sensations of macerated berries, roasted walnuts, lanolin ("legs") and graphite. The oak was evident yet smooth and sweet, with some tannins to shed yet with plenty of fit. It could go another 10 years. 20/20 points. Reviewed August 2012 - 20/20 points.

Other Wines Recently Tasted

2017 L'Ecole No. 41 "Old Vines" Chenin Blanc ($14) - This is one of the greatest values in Washington white. Light lemon-gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of Anjou pear, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, lemon verbena and clover. The flavors are vibrant and resonant with notes of grape and apple skins, peach stone and saline minerals. The back picks up poire William and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points. Reviewed September 2018 - 18.5/20 points.

2013 Array Cellars "Dijon Clone" Chardonnay, Yakima Valley ($32) - Back in February 2018, I reviewed Array Cellars 2013 Chardonnays. Last week, I pulled out a bottle of the Dijon Clone from the Otis Harlan Vineyard. It showed a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors were well delineated, Burgundy-like, with notes of peach stone, pear skin and alluvial minerals. The leesy textured back picked up poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of creme fraiche and hazelnut one a still vibrant finish. Excellent value. This and the other 2013 Chardonnays are still available. 19/20 points. 

2015 Georges Duboeuf Fleurie, "La Madone" - Once in a while, we'll drink a Beaujolais for the fun of it. This one showed a ruby-crimson color and perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry and currant with scents pf roses, sweet pea flowers and violets. The flavors were filled with expressive red and blue fruits that were accented by licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back picked up roasted nuts, kirsch and creme de cassis, followed by an elegant ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2015 Domaine Ragot Givry, "Vieilles Vignes" - The Côte Chalonnaise of Burgundy is another area whose wines we like. This one showed a deep brick red color and a rich, smoky nose of fraises de bois, cherries, red currants, crushed red roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors were not highly complicated, but very tasty with definite old vine Pinot Noir character, underlain with licorice, cocoa and earth. The back picked up roasted berries and nuts, toffee and soft pencil lead, followed by a moderate tannin finish. Purchased for $27.99 from wine.com. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Louis Jadot Côte de Nuits Villages - This is our go-to Red Burgundy and we drank a bottle last night. From the communes of Premeaux and Comblanchien, it showed a brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, raspberry and black currant, crushed roses and wood smoke. The Pinot Noir flavors were pleasingly supple yet substantial with plenty of red fruit, intermixed with cocoa, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The back revealed pressed berries, roasted nuts and fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a ripe smooth tannin finish. Purchased for $45.99 from wine.com. 19/20 points.