Why American Viticultural Areas Matter

While getting my copy for the November issue of the Review proofed by wineries, I got an email from Karen Wade, the Fielding Hills Winery winemaker Mike Wade's wife, suggesting I refer to their Riverbend Vineyard as being in the Wahluke Slope AVA. I replied that "I agree there needs to be more consumer awareness that geographical designations for wines are not just areas, but ones that are designated and delimited as specific American Viticultural Areas." Karen then replied, "I'm glad you feel that way about the Wahluke Slope and AVAs. I think Red Mountain is more widely known because there is actually a population that lives there and a significant number of wineries so people stand on the dirt and taste the wine. The poor Wahluke Slope AVA suffers geographically from 'no reason to go there.' Twenty percent of the wine grapes grown in the state are grown in the Wahluke Slope yet very few people know where it is. Wahluke means 'watering place" in the native language which is also interesting since we would not be growing the large amount of agricultural crops there without irrigation."

American Viticultural Areas are designated by the Federal Alcohol, Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. The requirements for AVA approval consist of "Evidence that the name of the proposed new AVA is locally or nationally known as referring to the area." This needs to be supported by historical evidence and evidence of distinctive growing conditions. This does not mean that there are standards for grape use and production, or any quality standards. They are simply geographical designations. California has hundreds of AVAs and sub AVAs. And there are AVAs over much of the continental U.S. For instance, there is a "Mississippi Delta" AVA which consists of a few vineyards planted with the native Muscadine grape and an experimental station run by the Mississippi State University.

My point here about why American Viticultural Areas matter, especially in regard to Washington Wines, is that they are areas with distinct characteristics and not just places. Many visitors to the Lake Chelan AVA think of it as a place where one can go to wineries and marvel at the views of a beautiful lake while sipping wine. Likewise, the Walla Walla Valley has become a destination place to go taste wines rather than an AVA where grapes are grown.

Another important thing about AVAs is that they enable wineries to label their wines as coming from noteworthy areas and the vineyards that are located in them. This is not only a valuable marketing tool, but also gives consumers information about the wines' sources. Many wineries source their grapes from several AVAs and vineyards. For instance, the Buty Winery (see this month's Review issue) produces some of its wines from the Phinny Hill vineyard on the Horse Heaven Hills.

To learn more about Washington AVAs, I strongly encourage you to read Chapter 2 of Paul Gregutt's Second Edition of his "Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide." This is an even more comprehensive edition than the first, with profiles on hundreds of wineries. I do, however, find that there are at least several wineries that have been omitted. Most may be too new or too small to appear on the radar screen. But there are at least a couple that I think should have been mentioned as "Rising Stars." One is Adams Bench in Woodinville. I find Tim and Erica Blue's wines to be admirable. Their 2007 Red Willow Cabernet Sauvignon was my first wine to score 20/20 points. Adams Bench wines have also gotten high scores elsewhere. In the Wine Advocate, Dr. Jay Miller mentions Adams Bench as being one of "the names worthy of consideration in Washington Wines." Also, dozens of Walla Walla wineries are included, but no mention of Chris and Cameron Kontos and their Kontos Cellars whose wines I consider quite estimable. Curiously, their father, Cliff Kontos, is mentioned as co-owner of Fort Walla Walla Cellars, a three star winery. These omissions aside, I consider Paul's book to be outstanding and highly recommended. I have a signed copy inscribed "For Rand - you got me started down this tasty path! Thank You."