Off Aromas in Wine

A lot has been written about 2.4.6 trichloranisole ("TCA") cork taint in wines, but what about other taints that can affect the smells in wines? Here's a rundown on others. TCA taint is now less of a problem than it used to be.  During the past three months, I have run across only one "corked" bottle. Most wineries now use quality certified corks or composite ones such as Diam.

Brettanomyces -  Called "Brett" for short, this is a rogue yeast, cousin to the wine fermentation Sacchromyces. It gives the wine a "barnyard" smell. Some Oregon winemakers claim Brettanomyces adds complexity to red wines. If that's the case, a little bit goes a long way.

Ethyl Acetate - This is an ester that is present in most wines, at a normal range of 50-60 g/L, but when the level reaches 150-200 g/L the wine can acquire a "rotten egg" smell. Ethyl Acetate comes from the same bacteria that produces vinegar. Proper sanitation helps prevent the occurrence of ethyl acetate.

Sulfur Dioxide - SO2 is present in most wines, usually added as a preservative. But an excess can produce smells of burning matchstick or in extreme cases, rotten egg. 

Premature Oxidation - Called "Premox" for short, this occurs when wine has been overworked by excess oxygenation, producing wines more mature than they should be. A week ago, I opened a bottle of 2016 Grenache that Lynn said was off. I smelled it and said, "premature oxidation - premox." Premox occurs more often in white wines than red. 

Reductivity - This is the obverse of premature oxidation. It occurs when a wine doesn't get enough oxygenation. This O2 starvation can also produce H2S gas, giving a skunky smell. Some claim putting copper such as a penny in a glass of reductive wine helps.

Secondary Fermentation - Secondary fermentation in the bottle is desirable in sparkling wine, but not in still wine. It can be caused by remaining fermentation yeast in the wine, causing the wine to foam. 

Luckily, the above taints occur less frequently than in the past. When I owned Esquin Wine Merchants in the 'seventies and 'eighties, customers would brink back "bad" or "corked" wines. But with more sanitary wine production methods, this occurs less often.

Saviah Deals of the Week

Yesterday, I received an email from Saviah Cellars announcing a five day only sale on selected wines. Two of the wines were the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2020 Syrah, both from the Walla Walla Valley and priced at an unbelievable $25 a bottle. I picked up a bottle of each wine, which have just been released. Here are my reviews.

2020 Saviah Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley ($25 - Regular $35) - This shows a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of blackberry, Bing cherry, Damson plum, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, cedar, a hint of mint and stick incense. The flavors are true to variety, ample and deep, with red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, French roast and loamy earth. On the back, the wine fills out with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, kirsch and graphite, followed by a suave ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Saviah Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($25 - Regular $35) - Deep ruby colored, this emits enticing aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, with copious black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and silty minerals. The back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha, creme de cassis, blueberry preserves and charcoal, followed by a ripe, almost decadent sweetish tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

This deal is for on line orders only and expires at midnight, Sunday, December 4. Other wines are on sale as well.