More Thoughts on the Ste Michelle Cutback
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- Written by Rand Sealey
In my Blog posting of 2 August, which was hastily put together, I meant to say more than that the Chateau Ste Michelle 40% cutback in wine grape purchases over five years was not good news but not really bad either. Since them there have been a lot more comments about the announcement. On Facebook, one commentator posted a circle with Ch Ste Michelle in it with a slash across. Another claimed growers were blindsided (I believe †he growers should have seen cutbacks on the horizon and prepared for them). For winemakers, this makes for an opportunity to pick up grapes from 30 to 40 year-old vines.
There is valid criticism of Sycamore Partners' management. The investment corporation is not really good at marketing. Ste Michelle Wine Estates (SWME) has too many brands, a case of too many products chasing not enough customers. One of the most balanced articles I have read has been that of W. Blake Gray in Wine-Searcher, "Saving Washington's Wine Industry." It points out that the commercial market, which SWME represents, is weakening in relationship to the strong boutique market. But I also happen to think a large part of SWME's role in the market should be in value wines such as those of Ste Michelle and Columbia Crest Grand Reserve. Also there is a part for higher end products including those of Northstar and Spring Valley. A flagship wine helps promote the other product tiers.
And there is a need for all Washington wineries to work together. The best analogy I've read it that of Erik McLaughlin (METIS) who wrote "...we are all pulling oars, if one side is more successful pulling those oars than the other, we'll just keep rowing in circles."
Here are a couple of new wines from Ste Michelle that illustrate this. Full reviews will be in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
2022 Chateau Ste Michelle "Indian Wells" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($17.99 - Super 1) - This is a new entry in the Indian Wells lineup. It shows a light pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry and watermelon, with bright, fresh pink fruits and, on the back, red liqueurs and a nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Chateau Ste Michelle "Indian Wells" Red Blend, Columbia Valley ($18.99 - Super 1) - Deep ruby colored, this possesses engaging aromas and brims with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate and black tea. The back picks up kirsch and cassis liqueurs, followed by s deliciously ripe moderate tannin and alcohol finish. 18.5/20 points.
Wine of the Week
One of the most iconic wineries of the Napa Valley is Beaulieu Vineyards which is famed for its flagship wine, the Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon which was crafted by the legendary winemaker Andre Tellischeff. This wine normally sells for $150 a bottle, but I bought it from the winery three years ago at a 30% discount in a mixed case, which made it $105.
2014 Beaulieu Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Georges de Lateur ($150) - This is a monumental Cabernet. It exhibits a deep ruby color and an intoxicating nose of semi dried fruits - blackberries, dark cherries, black plums - with scents of red rose petals, aged cigar wrapper, sandalwood, dried herbs, violets and oriental incense. The flavors are bold yet velvety, with layers of dark fruits that are interwoven with licorice, 80% cacao, espresso, Rutherford Bench dusty earth. On the back, the wine gains more depth and complexity with maturing macerated fruits that are underlain by kirsch, cognac, roasted pecans, toasty integrated oak and mixed spices and herbs, followed by a lanolin coated ("legs") ultra-long finish that is rounding out into a maturing phase. 20/20 points.
This wine also shows how a winery uses its flagship wine to promote the rest of the product range.
Miscellaneous Wines Tasted Recently
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Here's a roundup of wines from around the world that we've tasted recently.
2021 Château Fouquet Saumur Blanc ($26 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This Loire Valley white is produced from Chenin Blanc. It displays a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of Anjou pear, Crenshaw melon, grapefruit, honeysuckle, meadow flowers, clover and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are deliciously ripe and well textured, with notes of grape and pear skins and riverside minerals. The back picks up poor William liqueur, melon rind and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp, juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
2022 Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Rosé ($10.99 - Super 1) - This 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah combination offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberries, pink currants, Charentais melon, tangerine, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a nicely juiced finish.A super buy. 18/20 points.
2021 Domaine Lafond Lirac Blanc, "Roc Epine" ($23.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne and 20% Viognier, †his shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Asian pear-apple, Elberta peach, Charentais melon, pineapple, citrus, apple blossoms, honeysuckle, jasmine and lightly spiced white incense. The flavors are simultaneously brisk and viscous, with notes of grape and pear skins and riverside minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poor and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and lemon custard, followed by a balanced fruit acid finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Domaine Lafond Lirac Rouge, "Roc Epine" ($23.99 - wine.com) - This South Rhône combination of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre displays a purplish ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and incense. The flavors are ample and mouth filling, with copious red and purple fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, French roast and riverside minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed berries, framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a fruit acid lifted moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Domaine de Coursac Langedoc Rouge, "Les Garriguettes" ($21.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - Composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Cinsault, this Southwest France red shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant, crushed roses, garrigue (lavender, herbs) and spiced incense. The flavors are ample yet substantial, with copious red and blue fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and Languedoc scorched earth. The back picks up pressed fruits, red liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2022 La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana ($23.99 - wine.com) - Vermentino is an indigenous white grape of Sardinia and coastal Tuscany. This is one of the best we've seen. It shows a bright lemon-gold color and aromas of pear, peach, citrus, honeydew melon, pear blossoms, day lilies, anise and yellow incense. The flavors are brisk, yet viscous, with yellow fruits that are underlain with pear skins, peach stones and saline minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs and touches of creme fraiche and nougat, followed by a sensuous, juicy finish. 19/20 points.
2021 OZV Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi ($13.99 - Safeway) - Here, OZV stands for Old Zinfandel Vines. This one shows a deep buy cool and ripe aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, red roses, purple lilac, tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors are generous, typical of Lodi, brimming with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, chocolate and baked earth. On the back, the wine warms up with roasted berries and nuts, cherry pie and plum preserves, followed by s juicy, spiced (nutmeg, cinnamon) 14.8% alcohol finish. Here's your pizza wine. 18+/20 points.
2022 J Vineyards Pinot Gris, California ($17.99 - Safeway) - We've liked Pinot Gris from France, Italy, Oregon and Washington. So how about California? This one offers a medium gold color and enticing aromas of Bosc pear, wihe peach, Crenshaw melon, lime, pear blossoms, white lilac, jasmine, lemongrass and green incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with green and white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, melon rind and minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs and lime zest, followed by s pleasingly juicy finish. 19/20 points.
2021 Pike Road Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($22.99 - Safeway) - Deep brick red colored, this Pino† emits enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, orange peel, rosebuds, tobacco leaf and incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and dusty earth. The wine fills out on the back with pressed fruits, red fruit liqueurs and pencil lead, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
Lynn's Rosé Wine Tasting
Last week, Lynn had her Ladies' PAWS (Perfectly Aged Wine Sippers) group for a tasting of various Rosé wines from France and Washington State. They were from different grape varieties, so it was like comparing apples and oranges, highly personal decisions about favorites. Here were the two favorites. The wines were tasted blind and revealed on completion of the tasting.
2022 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($17.99 - Super 1) - This Washington Rosé was the favorite of four of the seven tasters. Made from grapes given extended hang time to produce a juicy pink wine, it's a crowd pleasing type of Rosé.
2022 Domaine de Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Les Commandeurs" Rose ($26 - The Thief) - This Consult, Syrah, Grenache combination was the second favorite, preferred by three tasters. It's a fine example of Provence Rosé.
As a bonus after the tasting, Lynn poured the following Rosé which everyone liked and considered to be a super buy.
2022 14 Hands Rosé, Columbia Valley ($14.29 - Southgate Market) - Brilliant copper pink colored, this possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, currant, watermelon, tangerine, pink roses, pink lilac and mandarin orange. The flavors are bright and fresh, accented by grape skins, melon rind and minerals. The back picks up pink liqueurs and and tangerine peel, followed by a nicely juiced finish. Lynn: 3 of 3 stars.
Chateau Ste Michelle's Grape Purchase Reduction
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- Written by Rand Sealey
The big news last week was the announcement that Chateau Ste. Michelle will be reducing its purchase of wine grapes from independent growers by 40% over the next five years. This will represent a 10,000 acre reduction which growers will have to find other customers for. This also amounts to a reduction of approximately $400,000,000 in retail sales if the grape surplus is not utilized. This is a significant impact on the market. There has been a lot of commentary on this by others, Sean Sullivan (northwestwinereport.com), Paul Gregutt (paulgwine.com) and Tom Wark (Fermentation - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.), so here, I'm giving my take on this topic.
In my opinion, this is not good news, but not really bad either. The wine industry has had its ups and downs over the decades, ever since repeal. So the next challenge won't be anything new. There are times when cutbacks are a financial necessity. Sure, adjustments will have to be made. As for the owners of Chateau Ste. Michelle, Sycamore Partners, a private equity company in New York, I think more forward thinking is in order. Under the Allen Shoup and then Ted Bassler leaderships, Ste. Michelle expanded grape purchases and added new brands. Now there seem to be too many brands (are 14 Hands, Intrinsic, Borne of Fire and others really necessary?) Grape growers and wineries also need to get more creative about how to absorb the grape purchase cutbacks and grow the consumer market, especially with the trade barriers such as distribution, regulations, and shipping laws. If the industry as a whole works together, there will be a better future.
Looking Ahead to September / The Heat Wave
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Looking Ahead to September
Now that the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines is now on line, here's what we're working on for September. There will be some summer and early fall releases from the Walla Walla Valley, including ones from The Walls, Golden Ridge, Reininger/Helix and Va Piano. Next week, we will drive over to the Tri Cities to visit Convergence Zone (recently moved from North Bend) Batholomew, and Longship. Also featured will be the Mark Ryan Family wines and others from Downtown Walla Walla including Guardian Cellars and Gard Vintners. In the Highly Recommended section there will be outstanding new releases from Force Majeure.
The Heat Wave
Last month was the hottest July on record, with highs on the nineties and occasionally above 100 degrees. The highs for August are forecasted to be in the 90s for at least the next ten days. So far, this is a repetition of last years' growing season - a cold spring followed by a hot summer and an early harvest. Is this going to become the "New Normal?" We shall see.
One consequence of this heat wave is the suspension of wine shipments because of the hot weather. High temperatures are the enemy of wine which in some cases can result in "cooked" wines. Shippers are waiting for highs to ease into the 'eighties before shipping again. This can mean lost sales for wineries. One solution would be chill pack shipping, using packs that have chill packs inserted into the boxes to keep the wines at safe temperatures during transit. But few wineries are doing this. If they want to generate sales, I would recommend they use chill packs.
Washington Wine News / More New Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Recent Washington Wine News
Auction of Washington Wines Honor Roll
For the Auction of Washington Wines in August, the following wine industry members have been named to the 2023 Event's Honor Roll.
Ted Basler - Lifetime Achievement Award - To the former Chateau Ste Michelle Chief Operating Officer for his contributions for over 40 years.
Marty Clubb - Award of Distinction - To the Managing Winemaker of L'Ecole No 41.
Emerging Leaders
Becca De Kline - 4 Feathers Wine Services
Devyani Gupta - Winemaker, Valdemar Estates
Michelle Moyer - Enology Professor, Washington State University
Ashley Trout - Winemaker, Vital Wines and Brook & Bull
Congratulations to all for their leadership!
Ryan Pennington Named COO at L'Ecole No 41
After ten years at Chateau Ste Michelle, Ryan Pennington has been named Chief Operating Officer of L'Ecole No 41 in the Walla Walla Valley. There, he joins Managing Winemaking Marty Clubb and Winemaker Marcus Rafanelli as the winery celebrates its 40th Anniversary. The Pacific Northwest Wine Competition Moves to Walla Walla
Pacific Northwest Wine Competition Moves to Walla Walla
Starting July 9th, The Pacific Northwest Wine Competition has moved to Walla Walla from Bellingham. This year's Competition was held at the Walla Walla Community College's Institute foe Enology and Viticulture from the 9th through the 12th. One hundred and ten wineries entered wines totaling 557 wines. Top winners include Alexandria Nicole's Best of Show 2022 Shepards Mark White and Double Golds for Plumb Cellars and Golden Ridge Cellars in Walla Walla.
New Wines Tasted Recently
Here are some new wines we've tasted lately.
2022 Charles & Charles Rosé, Columbia Valley ($15) - A collaboration of Charles Bieler and Charles Smith, this is a blend of 48% Syrah, 31% Grenache and 21% Mourvèdre. It shows a light copper-pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, pink currant, watermelon, tangerine, pink roses, pink lavender and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, with grape skins, pink fruits and light minerals. On the back, the wine turns brisk and quaffable, with fraise and cassis liqueurs, melon rind and tangerine peel, followed by a crisp, dry finish. A super buy at $11.99. 18+/20 points.
2022 Lu & Oly "Flowerhead" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) - This Sangiovese dominated Rosé offers a copper-pink color and fragrant aromas of strawberry, pink cherry and Mandarin orange and fresh pink fruits and saline minerals, followed by a nicely fruited finish. Full review to be in the September Review of Washington Wines. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Famille Foillot Altesse, Rousette de Bugy ($32.90 - Foodscape) - Altesse is a grape similar to the Furmint of Tokay. Brilliant gold colored, it emits intriguing aromas of Bosc pear, nectarine, lemon and passion fruit, with scents of pear blossoms, honeysuckle and sweet yellow incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with well delineated yellow fruits that are marked by notes of grape skins, nectarine skins and Jura minerals. On the back, the wine takes a brisk turn with poire William liqueur, lemon custard and melon rind, followed by a juicy yet dry and racy finish. 19/20 points.
2022 Ferrari-Carano Fumé, Sonoma County ($16.99 - Safeway) - Modeled after a Loire Fumé Blanc, this Sauvignon Blanc presents a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, Crenshaw melon, pear blossoms, jasmine, meadow flowers and green incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of grape and pear skins and Sonoma Valley minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs, melon rind and lemon custard, followed by a juicy finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.
2021 J de Villebois Pouilly-Fumé ($35.99 - Safeway) - Pouilly Sur Loire is less well known than Sancerre but makes similar wines. Those one shows a brilliant gold color and typical aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, gooseberry, Crenshaw melon, pear blossoms, meadow flowers, flint and white incense (fumé). The flavors are brisk, with yellow fruits that are imbued with pear skins, peach stones and Kimmeridigan marl. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and touches of almond and lemon custard on the crisp, juicy persistently minerally finish. 19/20 points.
2022 Andrew Browne Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($24) - See the August issue of the Review of Washington Wines for this version of a Loire style Sauvignon Blanc. 18.5/20 points.
2022 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($15.99 - Safeway) - New Zealand, especially Marlborough, presents another, crisp style of Sauvignon Blanc. This one presents a medium lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of green apple, quince, Casaba melon, lime, apple blossoms, jasmine, lemongrass and wet stone. The flavors mirror the aromatics with brisk white and green fruits that are accented by grape skins, melon rind and north shore minerals. The back picks up applejack liqueur and lime zest on the way to a bracing, yet well fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 La Crema Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($27.99 - Safeway) - The Russian River is one of California's top AVAs for Chardonnay. This one exhibits a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, white peach, citrus, Crenshaw melon, pear blossoms, acacia flowers, wisteria and white incense. The flavors are precise, pure Chardonnay, with yellow fruits that are marked by pear skins, peach stones and Russian River minerals. On the back, the wine resonates with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of brioche and lemon custard, followed by a lingering, balanced finish. 19/20 points.
2020 Seghesio Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($26.99 - Safeway) - From a 125 year old winery, this offers a purplish ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, Damson plum, black roses, sweet tobacco, oregano and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention getting, with red and black fruits that are infused with red licorice, cocoa, espresso and baked earth. On the back, the wine fills out with raspberry and cherry liqueurs, plum preserves and roasted nuts, followed by a warm (15% alcohol) spiced (nutmeg, clove) juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
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