I've been tasting quite a few 2010 Washington reds as more wineries deplete their inventory of 2009's and move into the next vintage. As you may recall, 2010 saw a protracted harvest through sometimes cool weather and occasional showers. It was in mid November that the last grapes were harvested.

One thing I have heard winemakers say is that the 2010's show more phenolic compounds than the 2008's and 2009's (from warmer vintages). The main phenolic compounds are flavenoids which give red wines flavors and tannins, mainly from the skins. As a consequence, the aromas and flavors are more on the dark fruit (e.g. blackberry, black currant) than the red fruit (e.g. raspberry, cherry) part of the spectrum. Also, the phenols impart more bush-like aromatics (mulberry, brambles, etc.) than in warmer vintages. I recently retasted Rotie Cellars' 2010's (first reviewed in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines). Here are my notes:

2010 Rotie Cellars, Southern Blend, Columbia Valley ($40)

Deep ruby-garnet colored, this blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre emits rich aromas of blueberry, cherry, cassis, licorice, coffee beans, brambles and incense. The medium-bodeied flavors show a moderate richness, with notes of licorice, cocoa powder and earthy minerals. The back reveals notes of dried cherries, bitter orange peel, roasted walnuts and moderate toasty oak, followed by a chewy, sweet-dry tannin finish. Approachable now. Straddles the "old" and "new" world style. 19/20 points.

2010 Rote Cellars Northern Blend, Columbia Valley ($40)

Composed of 95% Syrah, co-fermented with 5% Viognier, this displays a purplish ruby color and a dark nose of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, burnt orange peel and smoldering incense. The dark fruit flavors mirror the aromatics, with a penetrating direct intensity that is reinforced with notes of dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans, dried currants, and vanilla bean, followed by a squeeze of macerated blueberry juice and a touch of leather, all leading into a slightly nutted sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

Here, with these two wines, the phenolic aromatics (burnt orange peel, brambles, incense) are forward, and the fruits are dark (e.g. black currant) rather than ripe, and are focused, rather than ample. Ester-oriented aromatics such as roasted nuts and macerated fruits emerge on the back of the nose.

Another thing I have heard some winemakers say is that the 2010"s are more "Old World" than usual for Washington wines. That is to say that they are more structured and classically styled. They sometimes straddle the old and new world styles (as indicated in the last sentence of my notes on the Rotie Southern Blend). Along these lines, here's another review of a 2010 "Rhone Style" blend:

2010 Murphy & Ott "Double Bluff" Red Wine, Horse Heaven Hills ($18.99 at Esquin)

According to the back label, this Syrah/Grenache/Cinsault blend is "Inspired by the great everyday wines of Southern France." Deep ruby colored, it offers a nose of black cherries, black currants, anise, tobacco, dried roses and mulberry. On the palate, the fruits are direct and focused, with notes of coffee beans, Horse Heaven earth and minerals, continuing on the back with notes of dried cherries, bitter orange peel and cinnamon bark, followed by a dryish tannin finish, with just a touch of ripeness. More old world than new world. 18/20 points.

Will the 2010's be more ageworthy than, say, the 2008's and 2009's? My answer would be yes and no. Some wines that I have tasted from the barrels have shown great potential (including a killer Petit Verdot from Sleight of Hand). But the best are yet to come. Some wines, such as the Murphy & Ott above, are much like the "value" wines of Spain and Southern France, well-structured but not highly complex, ones for near to mid term consumption.

Best Buys for August

Here are some great values, found at Esquin and other places, that should not be missed.

2010 Waters Syrah, Columbia Valley ($18.99 at Esquin)

Deep purplish colored, this shows an attractive nose of blackberry, blueberry and cherry, with scents of anise, black roses, lavender and rubbed sage. The aromas are echoed by the dark fruit flavors, intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, espresso and minerally earth. The wine's directness continues on the back with notes of squeezed berry juices, tart cherries, roasted chestnuts and bright fruit acids on a moderate tannin finish, marked by savory spices and herbs. Almost an 18.5 points wine. 18+/20 points.

In view of the above discussion of the 2010 vintage, it is interesting to note that the Waters back label states: "From some of the best cool-climate vineyards that Washington State has to offer, this Syrah offers natural balance and generous acidity that one would expect in a Syrah from the "Old World."

2010 Idilico Garnacha, Washington State ($18.99 at Esquin)

Garnacha is the Spanish name for Grenache, so named here because the owner-winemaker, Javier Alfonso, is from Spain. Purplish ruby colored, it emits an intriguing nose of black cherry, Damson plum, anise, brambles and black roses. The flavors are medium-bodied, yet reveal a black fruited intensity, intermixed with licorice, dark roasted coffee beans and loamy, minerally earth, followed by sensations of dried cherries and orange peel on a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. Again, more old world than new in style. 18.5/20 points.

2010 Array Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($23.99 at Esquin)

The Array winery makes only Chardonnay. This one comes from three highly-respected vineyards: 41% Conner-Lee, 33% Dionysus and 26% Stillwater Creek. Brilliant gold colored, it offers an attractive nose of pear-apple, white peach, apple blossoms, acacia flowers, flintstone, citrus, and a wafting of toasted oak. The flavors are true to variety and well extracted (from full cluster fermentation in oak barrels) and equipoised, integrating apple, stone fruit and stony minerals. The back picks up notes of peach pit and a touch of cream (from full malolactic) counterpointed by a squeeze of lemon zest on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Cor Cellars "Momentum" Red, Horse Heaven Hills ($14.99 at Esquin)

Composed of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 24% Petit Verdot and 14% Malbec, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and rich, sultry aromas of raspberries, plums, cherries, brewed coffee, black roses and loamy earth. The medium-bodied flavors are generous and fleshy, marked by chocolate, mocha and wind-blown Horse Heaven earth and minerals. The ripeness continues on the back with notes of macerated plums and spiced cherries on a supple moderate acid and tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2011 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Cold Creek Vineyard ($15.49 at Thriftway)

From one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the state (planted in the 1970's) this displays a brilliant greenish-tinted gold color and fragrant aromas of green apple, white peach and grapefruit, with scents of honeysuckle, clover and wet stone. On the palate, the white fruit flavors are fresh and lively, accented by notes of peach stones, grape skin extracts and alluvial minerals. The back picks up touches of citrus, passion fruit, flintstone and honey on a lingering, racy medium-dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard ($20.99 at Thriftway)

This Merlot shows a deep ruby color and an intense nose of raspberry, cherry, plum, rose petals, sandalwood and sweet spiced incense. The flavors are generous and full, abounding with ripe fruits that are intermixed with licorice, Swiss chocolate, roasted coffee beans and Horse Heaven earth and minerals. The richness continues on the back, with notes of squeezed plum juice, mocha and toasted almonds on a lingering, moderately oaked sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.