Last week, I participated in two interesting and educational wine tastings, one of Loire Valley Cabernet Francs, and the other, of Southern Italian wines. Here are my reports.
The SOB Cabernet Franc Tasting
On Tuesday, February 17th, the Sons of Bacchus (SOBS for short) and a Daughter of Dionysus assembled for a tasting of Cabernet Francs from France's Loire Valley. Cabernet Franc is the principal red grape of the Saumur region of Anjou. The principal appellations are Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Chinon and Bourgeuil. The wines generally are medium bodied and well fruited, with a distinct gravel and limestone minerality.
Ten wines were tasted blind, in three flights of three or four wines. The best wine in each flight was put into a final round to determine the order of preference of the top three. After the final round, something remarkable came out - all three were from the same producer, Domaine Charles Joguet in Chinon. There was near unanimous agreement among the tasters as to the best wines in each flight. Here they are, in order from the top down, with my scores.
2005 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon, "Clos du Chêne Vert" - This showed a deep ruby color and a smoky, spicy nose of dried fruits. The flavors were well packed, with notes of roasted berries and nuts, and showing much old vine density and minerality (from 30+ year old vines). With a long, rich finish, this was a real classic. 19+/20 points.
2011 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon, "Clos du Chêne Vert" - Medium ruby colored, this wine possessed rich aromas of dried fruits, nuts, cedar, tobacco and smoldering incense. The flavors were rich, fleshy and direct, imbued with chocolate, coffee and minerals, followed by chewy, satiny tannin on the long finish. 19/20 points.
2005 Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon, "Les Petits Roches" - This cuvée was from younger vines. It showed inviting aromas of crushed fruits - cherry, orange peel and raspberry - with scents of tobacco, mulberry and violets. The flavors were medium bodied, yet well extracted, with a dryish, minerally character, followed by a long finish. 18.5+/20 points.
The other wines were outclassed by those of Charles Joguet. However, there were three other noteworthy wines.
2009 Domaine Gauther Bourgeuil, "Clos Nouveau" - This wine offered seductive aromas of wild blackberry, blueberry, and orange peel, with scents of mulberry and crushed roses, and rich, chewy textured red and blue fruit flavors. 18.5/20 points.
2011 Domaine du Collier Saumur, "La Ripaille" - This was a typical Saumur Cabernet Franc, deep ruby colored, with smoky aromas of raspbery, blueberry, cassis and incense, and direct, penetrating flavors. 18.5/20 points.
2005 Domaine Philippe Alliet Chinon, "L'Huissiere" - This showed a deep color, with dark fruit aromas of roasted berries, tobacco, earth, and plenty of direct fruit, with a moderate tannin and acid finish, 18.5/20 points.
Bonus wines were a delightful Gratien & Meyer Saumur Cabernet Franc Sparkling Rosé, served before the tasting (compliments of Erik McLaughlin), a Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc (a rarity, brought by Jamie Kennedy) and and a 2002 Cayuse "Flying Pig" Red (75% Cab Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot supplied by Elizabeth Bourcier). Thanks to Elizabeth Bourcier for hosting. See last week's blog below, for more about Cabernet Franc.
The Whitehouse Crawford Southern Italian Tasting
This was another of the series of tastings at the Whitehouse Crawford restaurant in Walla Walla, conducted by general manager, Jenna Bicknell. It was quite informative, consisting as it did, of mostly indigeneous Southern Italian varieties from Sicily, Puglia, Calabria and Campania. Here are the wines I found most notworthy.
2013 Le Vigne Biondi Etna Outis Bianco ($28) - Produced from Carricante, Cataratte and Minello grapes from the slopes of Mt. Etna, this is a good value from Sicily. It showed a medium gold color and aromas of pear, peach, citrus and star anise, with vivid, laser-like white fruit flavors that were imbued with peach stone and volcanic minerals, followed by a long, dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2012 Le Vigne Biondi Etna Outis Rosso ($28) - Produced from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappucio, this displayed a medium brick red color and enticing aromas of wild raspberrries, cherries and plums, with scents of red roase, orange peel and incense. The dried fruit flavors were direct and mouth filling, imbued with cocoa, coffee and volcanic minerals, followed by a dried fruit and roasted nuts dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2011 Passopisciaro Nerello Mascalese ($44) - This varietal comes from the northern slopes of Mt. Etna in Sicily. It showed a medium brick red color and lovely aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, mountain wildflowers, and spiced incense. The rich ripe fruit flavors were counterpointed by tones of dried cherries and volcanic minerals, followed by a lingering roasted nut and dried orange peel imbued finish. 19/20 points.
2011 Librani "Gravello" Rosso ($30) - Composed of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Calabrian red displayed a deep ruby color and attractvie aromas of blackberry, cherry,plum, black roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors were pleasingly supple, with copious dark fruits that were intermixed with cocoa, coffee beans and gravelly minerals. The back picked up roasted berries and nuts and fruit preserves, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
2008 Mastroberadino "Radici" Taurasi Rosso ($60) - Mastroberadino is famous for this wine, made from the Aglianico grape in Campania. "Radici" means "roots" in Italian, referring to the heritage of indigenous varieties. It exhibited a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of black fruits - cherries, plums, currants - with scents of orange peel, roses and spiced incense. On the palate, the dried fruit flavors kept on going, infused with licorice, tea and roasted nuts, cocoa and toffee, followed by a long, complex sweet-dry tannin finish. Pricey, but highly impressive. 19+/20 points.
Thanks to Jenna Bicknell for putting this on. Tomorrow: Northern Italy.