A week ago, the Sons of Bacchus (SOBs) assembled for a tasting of German Rieslings 2001 and older. For the most part, they were remarkably fine. It is the natural acidity that makes Rieslings the longest-lived white wines. There were a couple of corked wines and a couple over the hill ones, but the rest were truly remarkable. There were two sets of six Spatlesen and six Auslesen, each group in flights of three wines. There are the top three wines in each group, according to the tasters' ranking, together with my notes and scores.

1996 Reichgraf von Kesselstatt Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese - Deep gold colored, this showed a rich nose of slightly dried fruits and flowers. The flavors were almost viscous, with notes of orange peel, toasted nuts and slate, followed by a long complex finish. I ranked this number one of the Spatlesen. 19+/20 points.

1998 Dr. Loosen Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Spatlese - Almost amber colored, this wine showed a rich nose of dried fruits - peach, citrus, apricot - with a hint of diesel (typical of older Riesling). The slightly spiced flavors were rich and fat, yet balanced with fine acidity and racy minerality. 19/20 points.

1998 Schloss Schöenborn Johannisberger Klaus Riesling Spatlese - This Rheingau Riesling showed a gold-amber color and aromas of spiced, dried fruits, with scents of dried flowers, tangerine and a hint of banana. The flavors were rich and earthy, with fine acidity and a dryish, spiced finish. 19/20 points.

1996 Porta Nigra Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese - This was the top ranked wine in the Auslese group. Interestisngly, it was a shipper's bottling rather than an estate one. It was truly remarkable (my top ranked wine as well). It showed a deep amber color and aromas of dried fruits and flowers, diesel, and orange peel. The flavors combined racy acidity and minerals with lanolin and spice, followed by a long, ultra complex finish. 19.5/20 points.

1989 Schloss Schöenborn Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Auslese - Here, again, Schloss Schöenborn stood out. It showed a deep amber-copper color (characteristic of a 25 year-old Riesling) and striking aromas of dried fruits and flowers, caramel and burnt orange peel. The flavors were comprised of rich dried fruits, with a slightly bitter finish. 19+/20 points.

2001 C.H. Berres Urziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese - This was the youngest wine in the grouping. Sadly, my 1997 was corked, but I had also taken this one for Trey Busch. It showed a medium gold color and a slaty, floral, minerally nose and ripe, dryish, complex flavors that showed a sense of exquisiteness. 19+/20 points.

There were two other noteworthy wines that could have been contenders for the top rankings.

1997 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Auslese - This one showed a medium gold color and and lovely aromas of dried flowers and semi-dried fruits. The flavors were rich, earthy and slatey (typical of a Nahe Riesling), with racy, ultrarefined finish. I ranked this second. 19+/20 points.

1990 Dr. Bürklin Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling Auslese - Forst is one of the premier wine producing towns of the Rheinpfalz. Ths one displayed an amber color and a peachy, appley nose, with a hint of diesel. The flavors were nicely matured, still showing a bit of Auslese sweetness on the back palate, and then turning dryish. 19/20 points.