Looking Back on 2009

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 27 December 2009

Looking Back on 2009

It's been an exciting and stimulating year working on the Review of Washington Wines which was launched in December of 2008. Lynn and I have been back and forth between Seattle and Walla Walla a dozen times. We have made excursions to Woodinville, Spokane, Chelan, the Columbia Gorge, the Yakima Valley, Red Mountain and the Horse Heaven Hills. We've visited over 100 wineries, tasted hundreds of exceptional wines, met many talented winemakers and made lots of friends.

Looking Ahead to 2010

I'm in the process of compiling my list of Top Wines of 2009 and cannot help but marvel how many exceptional wines are being made in this state. And they are getting better and better. There is a younger generation of winemakers who show great promise and new wineries keep popping up. There will be a lot to write about in the coming year. Stay tuned!

Top Wines of 2009 - Don't Miss my January 4th Blog!

In my first posting of 2010, I will publish my list of the Top Washington Wines of 2009. Also included will be my lists of Top New Wineries and Top Values of the Year.

Predictions for 2010 - The January 11th Blog

The next posting will list Wineries to Watch in 2010, Upcoming Wine Trends, and other predictions from the Crystal Ball.

Best wishes for the coming New Year.

Washington Wine Report - An Impressive Blog

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 20 December 2009

Washington Wine Report - An Impressive Blog

A couple of weeks ago, I was browsing through Sean Sullivan's blog, "Washington Wine Report" and happened to run across a review of my "Review of Washington Wines." Sullivan wrote, "Review of Washington Wines' newsletters are easy to read....Long-time recipients of Esquin's monthly flyer will recognize Sealey's engaging writing style." (To read the full review, dated May 21, 2009, go to www.wawinereport.com, and scroll down the list of "LABELS" on the left to "Rand Sealey's Review of Washington Wines" and click.). Thanks, Sean.

Now, I'm reviewing Sean Sullivan's own blog, "Washington Wine Report."

The blog Overview states, "Washington Wine Report is an independent blog focused on bringing Washington wine to you and bringing you to Washington wine." Sullivan's rating system is rather idiosyncratic, using stars and a plus as follows: ** - "An exceptional wine." * - "An excellent wine." + - "A good wine."

Recent postings include the following reviews. The December 15 posting gives the 2008 Domaine Pouillon Gewurztraminer one star. The December 10 posting profiles James and Poppie Mantone's Syncline Cellars in the Columbia Gorge and rates that winery's 2008 Roussanne one star. The December 18 posting announces the results of the Reader Survey which picks the 2008 William Church Malbec as the 2010 Washington Wine Report Reader Wine to Watch. The 2007 Alexandria Nicole "Mr. Big" Petite Sirah is the Reader Survey Wine of the Year.

There is a lot going on in Sullivan's blog. In the current posting there is a notification of a Virtual on-line tasting of Brian Carter's Abacadabra on December 21. The results of the Reader Survey are announced (see above). Numerous links to other blogs and websites are provided. The Friday, December 4 post gives an extensive report on the 2009 Vintage with pictures of vineyards including ones showing the frost lines following the cold snap of October 11. There is much more as well.

Sullivan's writing style is quite engaging. His posts show a through knowledge of wine and the wine industry (I crossed paths with him a couple of times during Fall Release Weekend in Walla Walla). For instance, Ryan Crane's Kerloo Cellars and Sean Boyd's Rotie Cellars are the subject of a Focus profile in the September 11 posting, recounting how each came to Walla Walla to work in winemaking, Crane at Va Piano and Boyd at Waters. In the article, Sullivan comments, "One of Walla Walla's strengths as an emerging wine region is that it remains a small town. Everybody knows everybody." In reading Sullivan's articles, you feel you are getting to know the winemakers being profiled.

All in all, Sean Sullivan's blog is very impressive. It is a must-read for anyone serious about Washington wine. Go to www.wawinereport.com.

Barrel Tasting 2008's in Walla Walla

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 13 December 2009

Barrel Tasting 2008's in Walla Walla

December 4th through 6th was the Walla Walla Valley Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend and most wineries offered samplings from the barrel. I tasted many 2008's and was amazed by much of what I found. It is going to be a fabulous vintage. Most of the wines will be bottled in winter or spring and be released late summer or fall. Some wines will be for club members only. Some are being offered as futures - buy them! Here are some highlights.

2008 Rasa Vineyards QED Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Price TBD)

This 85% Syrah, with the remainder consisting of Grenache, Mourvedre and a dash of Viognier, exhibits a deep, inky purple color. The nose emits powerful, smoky aromas of wild berries, tobacco and brambles. There are massive dark fruit flavors from beginning to end, underlain with licorice, roast coffee and loamy minerals. The back palate spreads out and culminates in an opulent, ripe, chewy finish, marked by ripe tannins. This will age beautifully. 19/20 points.

2008 Rasa Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, DuBrul Vineyard (Price TBD)

This is a phenomenally dense 100% Cabernet. The aromas are filled with cherry, blackberry, cigar box, oriental incense and rose petals. It is surprisingly rich and ripe on the palate, with a lush background of dark fruits, yet dry and well structured. Earth, minerals, licorice, coffee grounds and toffee emerge on the back palate and glide into a long ripe tannin finish. It is seemingly forward, yet will age well. It shows great potential. Kudos to Billo Naravane. 19+/20 points - could go to 19.5.

2008 Bergevin Lane Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Franciscia's Vineyard (Futures - $39)

I tasted this from a one year-old barrel - the blend will be a combination of new and older oak. This displayed intense aromatics of wild berries, blueberries, violets and incense. The flavors were thickened by frequent pumping over during fermentation. It had layers of mouth-coating dark fruits, underlain with licorice, mocha, chocolate and minerals, and supported by ripe tannins on the long finish. 19/20 points.

2008 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Unnamed Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Futures - $40)

Reynvaan is certain to be the next cult winery (Christophe Baron of Cayuse is a consultant there). This Syrah exhibits terrific aromatics of black currants, lavender, rose petals and oriental incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, yet with a supple, chewy texture that shows tones of cocoa, licorice and spice and a touch of leather, followed by sweet-dry tannins. Co-fermented with 10% Viognier. 19/20 points.

2008 Reynvaan Family Vineyards In the Rocks Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Futures - $45)

Co-fermented with 6.5% Viognier and 1.5% Marsanne this is another big Syrah. The nose is somewhat closed, yet reveals aromas of black cherry, blackberry, anise, lavender and minerals. The big, thick, earthy flavors are underlain with coffee grounds, licorice, squeezed blueberry juice, and supported by ripe tannins. 19/20 points.

2008 Reynvaan Family Vineyards The Contender Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Futures - $55)

This barrel sample displayed a lovely black currant and black cherry nose with lavender and violet scents and whiffs of pepper. On the palate, it tasted thick, meaty and chewy, stuffed with licorice, minerals, cocoa, espresso coffee and imbued with a sexy texture that glided over the palate on to a lingering, ripe tannin finish. Co-fermented with 5% Marsanne. An amazing wine, this is a contender for a 20/20 points score. 19.5+/20 points.

2008 Robison Ranch Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Spofford Station Vineyard (Price TBD)

This winery was bonded in 2008 and is one to watch for as the wines are released in May or June. Tasted at the Robison Ranch Open House in November, it showed fine aromatics of raspberry, blackberry, blueberries, lavender and rose petals. On the palate, it was well-endowed with ripe, chewy red and blue flavors that held on nicely from beginning to end, marked by licorice, minerals, cocoa, squeezed pomegranate juice, and a touch of white pepper. 18.5+/20 points.

2008 Va Piano Estate Red, Walla Walla Valley (Wine Club)

This blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 14% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot displays a floral raspberry, cherry and cassis nose with rose petal scents. Silky and elegant on the palate, it shows a fine equipoise of fruit and extract along with tones of anise, baker's chocolate, toasty fine-grained oak and smooth tannins. 19/20 points.

2008 Va Piano Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Block 4 (Wine Club)

Dark purplish colored, this wine offers an intense lavender and violet-scented cassis and wild berry nose. The palate reveals loads of layered dark berry fruit with dense underpinnings of roasted fruits, licorice, chocolate and scorched earth. Bright acidity, ripe tannins and a chewy texture, give the wine strength. 19/20 points.

2008 Kontos Cellars Malbec, Walla Walla Valley (Wine Club)

Again, as with the '07 Malbec, you will need to join the Kontos wine club to get this wine. This vintage displays a deep crimson color, an intense nose of blueberries, currants and violets. The true blue flavors are deep and finely fruited accompanied by licorice, cocoa and mineral tones and followed by a twist of berry juice and a dash of pepper on the ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2008 Tranche Cellars Barbera, Columbia Valley, Northridge Vineyard (Price TBD)

This is a fine, bright rendition of Washington Barbera. It exhibits a dark ruby color, an intense violet-scented cherry and berry nose. The flavors are thick and well-extracted, underlain with licorice and a twist of blueberry juice on the ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2008 Tranche Cellars, Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Pride TBD)

Tranche is one of the Corliss winery's various projects. This Syrah offers a lovely violet and lavender scented cassis, blueberry and blackberry nose. The gorgeous dark fruit flavors are intermixed with licorice, chocolate, mocha, earth and a twist of extracted pomegranate and blueberry juices on the chewy tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2009 SuLei Cellars Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley, Cockburn Hills Vineyard (Price TBD)

Nearly all the wines I tasted from the barrel over the weekend were reds, but at SuLei I sampled this noteworthy white. It displayed a brilliant gold color, a young, enticing lilac, peach and melon nose. The flavors were pleasant and lively, with a bit more acidity than the '08 I reviewed last September. Just settling down, it showed a zingy ripe passion fruit and citrus finish. 18.5/20 points. Also watch for the 2009 Rose and 2008 Roller Girl Red to be released next spring.

Walla Walla Holiday Barrel Tasting: The Inside Scoop

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 07 December 2009

Walla Walla Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend: The Inside Scoop

The Walla Walla Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend is one of the Valley's biggest events. Held on the first weekend of December, this event has a festive atmosphere as barrel rooms are decorated with lights and greenery, and many wineries offer tastes from their barrels. This is also the time when new vintages are released. This years' Weekend, from December 4th to 6th, was awesome as there were many exceptional wines. There will be fuller reports in the January and February issues of the Review. But, here's an Insider Preview:

Reininger Cellars has released a fine 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards ($38 - 18.5/20 points) and a ripe, robust 2006 Ash Hollow Vineyard Syrah ($41 - 19/20 points).

Woodward Canyon released its 2007 Artist's Series #16 Cabernet Sauvignon - thick, chewy and well-extracted ($49 - 19/20 points).

Northstar has a nice, rich beautifully balanced 2006 Walla Walla Valley Merlot ($50- 18.5+/20 points).

Reynvaan Family Vineyards' 2007 "In the Rocks" Syrah is a knockout ($50 - 19/20 points). The winery is sold out, but this is worth seeking out, Next week, I'll report on its 2008's.

Tranche Cellars, one of the Corliss projects, showed a superb 2007 Roussanne (67%) - Viognier (33%) blend ($30 - 18.5/20 points). Again, some fantastic 2008's from the barrel.

Artifex, the state of the art custom crush facility was the site for an Open House for five of its wineries: Lullaby, Tulpen Cellars. Rasa Vineyards, Cadaretta and Reasons. A full report will be in the February issue of the Review (the January one doesn't have room for everything). But don't miss the sensational 2007 Rasa QED ($50 - 19/20 points) and the Reasons 2007 Malbec - big, deep and dark ($35 - 19/20 points) and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35 - 18.5+ points). Cadaretta also released a big, brawny 2007 Syrah ($35 - 18.5+/20 points).

Next week's blog (December 14th) will report on the 2008's tasted from the barrel. Stay tuned!

Holiday Suggestions

As I mentioned in the December issue of the Review (to go on line Dec. 10) there was not room for this section, so it is being published here. So here are my suggestions.

Give a Gift Subscription to the Review of Washington Wines

What better way to give to a fellow wine lover than a subscription to this publication? Unfortunately gift subscriptions cannot be entered through the Review's signup system, but they can be done manually from mail orders. For instructions on how to do this, scroll down to the November 22 blog below.

Give a Winery Club Membership

Most wineries have Wine Clubs where members get six or more bottles shipped or picked up twice a year. Most clubs offer a 20% member discount on purchases as well. To learn more about how this works, see the April issue of the Review. You can order a membership for a friend and have the shipments charged to your credit card.

Give Washington Wines

This is almost a no brainer. This is especially appropriate for out of state friends and family. Wineries and retailers will ship where it is legal to do so. In states that do not allow shipments from out of state, there may be retailers there that will deliver.