Petit Verdot: the Next Emerging Varietal?
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- Written by Rand Sealey
A couple of weeks ago, I received an email from the Seattle Magazine Washington Wine Awards asking me to participate in a survey of top Washington wines and wineries and emerging trends. One of the questions was to pick the top "Emerging Varietal - a wine grape making an impact as a single bottling or in blends, whether new on the scene or a classic varietal that's creating buzz again." Previous winners were Tempranillo, Grenache, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. On the list for 2012 were Barbera, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Mourvedre, Syrah and others, including Petit Verdot. I consider Syrah, Merlot and Riesling to be varieties making a comeback, but not quite there yet. So I picked Petit Verdot, a variety widely used (usually in small amounts, under ten percent) in "Bordeaux-style" blends, and, occasionally as varietal bottlings.,
While Petit Verdot is used mostly as a blending varietal, increased bottlings of varietal Petit Verdot is an indication of the grape's trendiness. Today's wine scene seems to revolve more around "newer" bottlings, rather than resurgent varietals. In the past year, winemakers have asked me to taste their Petit Verdots and tell them if they should bottle it as a varietal. On this basis, Brad and Ruth Riordan bottled their 2008 Petit Verdot from Red Mountain and Tero Estates will be releasing a 2008 Petit Verdot this year. Yesterday, I was barrel tasting with Trey Busch at Sleight of Hand Cellars, and he showed me a 2010 Petit Verdot from the Blue Mountain Vineyard that was stunning: exotic aromas with a tapestry of deep, complex fruits and flavors, with superb balance. It is to be bottled into 25 cases of magnums. When released, it should score at least 19 points, possibly 19.5.
What is it that makes Petit Verdot so interesting? First of all, it is not an easy grape to grow. The name means "little green" which comes from its notorious tendency to ripen slowly. Sometimes, in cool years, the grape stays green while other grapes have been harvested. The variety has fallen out of favor in Bordeaux for that reason. In Washington State, with more frequent warm harvesting seasons, Petit Verdot can ripen more successfully, with the green color turning to crimson in the late autumn. It is typically an aromatic wine, emiting smoky, exotic perfumes, and a beefy one, adding color, power and muscle to the so-called Bordeaux blends. Here are my tasting notes on a few examples.
2008 Seven Hills Winery Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley ($32)
I tasted this at the winery a few days ago. It is nearly sold out, so it will not appear in an upcoming issue of the Review of Washington Wines. Brilliant ruby colored, it emits sultry aromas of wild berries, currants, mulberries, orange peel, sandalwood and oriental perfumes. The dark fruits are thick and chewy but elegantly wrought, interwoven into a tapestry of flavors: red fruits, licorice, orange peel, graphite, and mountainside minerals (from the Minnick Hills vineyard in the northern edge of the AVA). The back picks up notes of dried orange peel, roasted nuts, and squeezed pomegranate juice, and moderate oak (40% new French) followed by ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
2008 Robison Ranch Cellars Petit Verdot, Red Mountain ($36) - September 2011 issue
This vintage turned out to be so striking that Brad and Ruth Riordan decided to bottle a portion of it as a varietal. It exhibits a deep garnet color and intense aromatics (a trait of Petit Verdot) of roasted raspberries, cherries and currants with scents of dried roses, rubbed sage and smoldering incense. The flavors are permeated with semi-dried macerated berries and nuts, coffee grounds and bittter orange peel on a chewy tannin finish. Blended with 10% Grenache. 18.5/20 points.
2007 Gilbert Cellars Petit Verdot, Wahluke Slope ($36) - February 2011 issue
This wine exhibits a deep purplish color and an intoxicating nose of blackberries, cassis and black cherries with scents of crushed roses, violets and oriental incense. On the palate, the dark fruits are deep and well saturated, imbued with notes of licorice, bittersweet chocolate, minerals and scorched earth. The flavor intensity continues on the back with sensations of macerated currants and berries, kirsch liqueur, twisted orange peel, dried cherries and cinnamon bark, followed by an intense sweet-dry tannin finish. Kudos to winemaker Justin Neufeld for this 19/20 points.
Other noteworthy Petit Verdots:
2007 Forgeron Cellars Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley ($30) - 18.5/20 points - January 2012
2008 Saviah Cellars Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley ($30) - 18.5/20 points - December 2011
2008 Januik Petit Verdot, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard ($35) - 18.5/20 points - October 2011
2008 Cor Cellars Petit Verdot, Horse Heaven Hills, McKinley Springs Vineyard ($22) - 18.5/20 points - April 2011
February Wine and Food Pairings
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Wines to go with Winter Stews
During the winter months, what better way to eat than with a hearty stew? There are all kinds of recipes for stews, so choose your favorites and pair them with these suggestions from the February and recent issues of the Review of Washington Wine.
Beef Stews - For these, I prefer a hearty red such as a Syrah, a "Rhone style" red or a Malbec.
2008 Buried Cane "Heartwood" Red, Columbia Valley (Feb.)
2009 Amavi Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley (Feb.)
2008 Cuillin Hills "The Dungeon" Red, Washington (Feb.)
2009 Cave B Syrah, Columbia Valley (Feb._
2009 Five Star Cellars Malbec, Walla Walla Valley (Feb.)
Lamb Stews - Merlot or "Bordeaux style" blends work well here.
2008 Northstar "Stella Maris" Red, Columbia Valley (Feb.)
2008 Matthews Claret, Columbia Valley (Feb.)
2008 Northstar Merlot, Columbia Valley (Feb.)
2009 Convergence Zone "Storm Front" Red, Red Mountain (Feb.)
2008 Forgeron Cellars Merlot, Columbia Valley (Jan.)
2008 Kontos Cellars "Alatus" Red, Walla Walla Valley (Dec.)
Veal Stews - These call for a medium-bodied red such as a Sangiovese, Tempranillo or Grenache.
2009 Hollywood Hills Grenache, Horse Heaven Hills (Jan.)
2009 Castillo de Feliciana Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope (Jan.)
2009 Robison Ranch Cellars "Combine" Red, Walla Walla Valley (Dec.)
2009 Nefarious Cellars Grenache, Snipes Mountain, Upland Vineyard (Nov.)
Vegetarian Stews - If there are a lot of legumes and root vegetables, an earthy Cabernet Franc is suitable, if the dish is spicy, try a Mourvedre or Syrah.
2009 Spring Valley "Katherine" Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley (Feb.)
2009 Hollywood Hills Mourvedre, Horse Heaven Hills (Jan.)
2009 Don Carlos Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley (Jan.)
2009 Tertulia Cellars Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley (Jan.)
2008 Saviah Cellars Cabenet Franc, Walla Walla Valley (Dec.)
2008 Coeur d'Alene Cellars "MO" Mourvedre, Washington (Dec.)
Steelhead - A Winter Salmon Alternative
During the winter months, most salmon is frozen from previous months' catch. But there is a wonderful alternative in steelhead trout. Steelhead is very similar to salmon, essentialy a salmonid species that spends its life cycle in fresh water instead of going out to sea. Today, wild steelhead is caught only by sports fishermen. But farm raised steelhead from the cold waters of the Pacific Northwest provide plenty of flavor. They are high in beta omega fats (the good kind) and are easily pan broiled. I use my mixture of 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 teaspoon coriander, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, marinating about 1/2 hour ahead.
With pan broiled steelhead, any of the wines for veal stew, above, will work nicely. Cabernet Franc can also do well.
How I use the U. C .Davis 20 Point System
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- Written by Rand Sealey
It has been over a year since I last summarized in September 2010 the 20 Point System I use in rating wines in the Review of Washington Wines. Since then, many new subscribers have signed up. And it occured to me that I should update my explanation of how I use this system in my Review of Washington Wines to show what it means.
Initially, when I started the Review of Washington Wines in December of 2008, I was going to use the 100 point scale as it seemed to be the one most widely understood by wine consumers. But in talking with Chris Camarda of Andrew Will Winery, he convinced me to do otherwise. Chris pointed out that almost no one will buy a wine that gets 85 points, even though, using school grading, that would be a B and hence very good. As an alternative, I turned to the University of California Davis 20 Point System for evaluating wines for my Review of Washington Wines.
The Davis 20 Point System was commonly used in evaluating wines until the Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator came along with the 100 point system. The Davis faculty experimented with 100 points in the 1940's, then came to the conclusion in the late 1950's that a 20 point system provided more precise results. The Davis System assigned points on a form with the following standards.
Clarity (2 points) - Brilliant, neark sparkly, clear with no haze or particulates.
Color (2 points) - Approproate color for varietal/type and age.
Bouquet (4points) Distinct varietal characteristics, balanced bouquet ("corked" is a defect here).
Total Acidity (1 point) - Proper balance, appropriate for varietal/type and age.
Sweetness (1 point) - Appropriate sweetness, well enhanced/well balanced.
Body/Texture (2 points) - Appropriate body for varietal/type and age.
Flavor/Taste (2 points) - Complex flavors, appropriate for varietal/type and age.
Acescensy (Bitterness) (1 point) - Well balanced, no perceptible bitterness.
Astringency (1 point) - Appropriate levels of tannin for the varietal/type and age.
Overall Quality (4 points) - Wines of "noble" quality with distinct and distinguishing character (It is here that there is room for subjectivity. Wines that are "charming" with some special character get 3 points. Typical or unexceptional wines get fewer points.)
The scores are totaled for a given wine to obtain the following ratings:
17 - 20 points - Wines of outstanding characteristics having no defects.
13 - 16 points - Standard wines with neither outstanding character or defect.
9 - 12 points - Wines of commercial acceptability with noticeable defects.
5 - 8 points - Wines below commercial acceptability.
1 - 5 points - Completely spoiled wines.
This system became standard usage throughout the 1960's and 1970's. This, interestingly, coincided with the breakout years of high quality California wines, with the emergence of wineries such as Heitz Cellars, Robert Mondavi, Freemark Abbey, Chappelet and others. Up until that time, most wines were "standard" or "commercial."
One interesting thing about the U.C. Davis System is that wines scoring 17 - 20 points are considered "wines of outstanding characteristics having no defects." This must mean that some wines are more outstanding than others. This is what the 17 - 20 point range means to me:
17 points - Very good, above average wines.
18 points - Exceptional, fine wines.
18.5 points - A step higher, more complex and nuanced.
19 points - Outstanding wines with much complexity.
19.5 points - Great wines that show extraordinary character.
20 points - Wines that are not only flawless, but possess superlative depth and complexity.
Occasionally (but not often) I will use a + to indicate a wine which is a notch above its point level in complexity.
The beauty of the 20 Point System is its simplicity which reduces (but does not eliminate) the influence of subjectivity in the evaluation process. Wines get rated on the basis of their overall balance and total performance. It also reduces the bias of the 100 point system toward awarding to only a small percentage of wines scores above 93 points. Most 100 point scale ratings peak out at about 92 points, so there is a range of 89 - 92 points for most Recommended/Highly Recommended wines, with 93 or more points becoming a sort of Holy Grail that wineries strive for.
A final comment is about the high number of wines receiving 18.5 or more points in my Review of Washington Wines, with a fair number of 19 points or more scores and even a few 20 points. The reason for this is that these wines are just that outstanding. Washington wines are becoming of age, and more truly exceptional wines are being produced. These, however, are just the ones at the top. There still are many more wines that are simply good or of standard quality (16 - 17 points). My goal with the Review of Washington Wines, is to bring to consumers' attention the wines that are the most exceptional ones.
Wine News / The 20 Point System
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- Written by Rand Sealey
The Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance / Alaska Airlines Promotion
The Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance has teamed up with Alaska Airlines for a promotion that wine lovers should take notice of. The promotion includes:
A 20 percent discount on round trip Alaska Air flights to Walla Walla
No baggage handling fees for up to one case of wine checked (must be packed in approved shipping boxes)
Tasting fee waivers at over 75 wineries, plus discounts at restaurants and businesses
For more information, go to: www.wallawallawine.com/flyalaska
The Robison Ranch Cellars Winemakers' Dinner at Nell's Restaurant
On Sunday, January 15th, Nell's Restaurant on Green Lake in Seattle teamed up with Robison Ranch Cellars in Walla Walla for a winemakers' dinner. The event for 69 people was sold out and was a great success. The dishes, prepared by owner/chef Philip Mihalski were perfectly paired with six Robison Ranch Cellars. Winemaker Brad Riordan gave excellent presentations of his wines. For pictures of this event, go to the Review of Washington Wines Facebook page. The menu:
Passed Hors d'Oeurves with 2010 Spofford Station Vineyard Semillon
Cumin Crusted Mahi Mahi with Hearts of Palm, Frisee and Satsuma Orange Vinagrette with 2010 Pinot Gris
Hedgehog Mushroom Risotto with 2009 Blue Mountain Vineyard Combine
Ahi Tuna with Fingerling Potatoes, Savoy Cabbage and Leek with 2009 Blue Mountain Cabernet Franc and 2008 Walla Walla Valley Merlot
Braised Lamb Shoulder with Polenta and Rapini and Rosemary Jus with 2008 Spofford Station Syrah
Chocolate Banana Tart with Lustau East India Solera Sherry
The U.C. Davis 20 Point System
For the benefit of newer subscribers, I would like to emphasize that the 20 Point System is quite different from others, especially the 100 point systems. Do not multiply scores by five to get equivalent 100 point scores. The 20 Point System valuations do not translate directly to another scale. For an explanation of how the 20 Point System works, go to my September 7, 2010 blog. To find it, go to the bottom of this page, then scroll back to page 14 where you will find that posting.
More Best Buys for 2012
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- Written by Rand Sealey
In my blog of December 30, 2011, I listed some wines that were reviewed in 2011 to look for as Best Buys. Here are several more that I have picked up in the Seattle area.
2010 Willow Crest Estate Pinot Gris, Yakima Valley ($8.99 at Esquin - Regular $12)
Brilliant greyish gold colored, this wine offers a ripe nose of pear, Crenshaw melon, lilac and honeysuckle. The white fruit flavors are fresh and vibrant, imbued with a stony minerality. The back picks up notes of hazelnuts, grape skin and grapefruit, counterpointed by a touch of creaminess on the finish. 17.5+/20 points.
2009 Willow Crest Estate Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley ($11.99 at Esquin - Regular $15)
This wine displays a brilliant ruby color and an attractive nose of blackberry, cherry, anise and rosebuds. The medium bodied flavors are direct, yet interesting, with notes of earth and minerla, cola, squeezed cherry juice, licorice and milk chocolate. It holds together well through the back and on the quaffably moderate tannin and acid finish. 17.5/20 points.
2010 Northwest Wine Academy Chardonnay, Yakima Valley, Seymour Vineyard ($10.99 at Esquin - Regular $12)
This comes from the enology school of South Seattle Community College. Brilliant gold colored, it offers attractive pear-apple and citrus aromas, with scents of apple blossoms and acacia flowers. The medium bodied flavors are bright and true to variety, accented by notes of Misoula Flood minerals, poached apples and toast on a faintly honeyed, citrus-tinged finish. 18/20 points.
2008 Sagelands Malbec, Wahluke Slope ($8.99 at Esquin - Regular $15)
This is an amazingly goood Malbec for the price. Deep purplish colored, it shows an intense varietal nose of raspberry, blueberry, mulberry, cracked pepper, and even a hint of violets. On the palate, the wine is chock full of red and blue fruit flavors, with notes of licorice, roasted coffee beans, and Wahluke scorched earth. The back picks up touches of mocha, semi-macerated berries and toasted hazelnuts, followed by a chewy, savory moderate tannin finish. This easily beats any Argentina Malbec for under $10. 18/20 points.
2008 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot, Columbia Valley ($23.99 at Esquin - Regular $30)
This wine displays a brilliant ruby color and a typical varietal nose of raspberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, tobacco and rubbed sage. The dark medium-full bodied flavors are thick and ample, with notes of licorice, chocolate and coffee beans. The back picks up touches of mocha and toast on a silky moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2009 Pour Me Red Wine Blend, Columbia Valley ($17.99 at Metropolitan Market - Regular $22)
This hononymically named blend of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Cabernet Franc and 28% Merlot was created for Metropolitan Market and is an excellent value. Deep ruby colored, it emits a rich nose of blackberry, cherry, cassis and rose petals, with hints of mint and eucalyptus. The dark fruit flavors are solid and well put together, showing notes of licorice, chocolate and pencil lead, followed by a squeeze of red currant juice, and touches of nougat and dried cherry on a sweet-dry tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2005 Novelty Hill Merlot, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($19.99 at Metropolitan Market - Regular $30)
This is a fine choice in a red that is approaching maturity. It displays a deep garnet color and rich aromas of blackberry, plum and cassis, with scents of dried roses, sandalwood and smoldering incense. On the palate, the flavors are well extracted, with intermixings of chocolate, French roast, earthy minerals and pencil lead. The back reveals a maturing roundness, integrating notes of mocha, semi-dried berries, toasty oak, dried orange peel, and softening tannins, all leading into a long lightly spiced (cardamom, clove) finish. 18.5/20 points.
The following wines come from the State's largest winery. Evidently, economies of scale enable Chateau Ste. Michelle to deliver high quality-price ratios. They can be found at various supermarkets and retailers.
2010 Ch. Ste Michelle Chardonnay, Columbia Valley ($10.99 on sale - Regular $15)
This is a Chardonnay that overdelivers in terms of price and quality. Brilliant gold colored, it offers an expressive nose of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms and acacia flowers. On the palate, the flavor components are in the right places: white fruits, with a hint of tropicality, stony minerals, moderate oak, and a slight creaminess from sur lie barrel aging, all melding together nicely. With this crowd-pleaser, who needs Kendall-Jackson? 18+/20 points.
2009 Ch. Ste. Michelle "Indian Wells" Merlot, Columbia Valley ($15.99 on sale - Regular $20)
Deep ruby colored, this wine displays rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, cassis, black roses, cigar box and spiced incense. The dark fruit flavors are well saturated, imbued with licorice, dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans and mocha. The back reveals sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, cinnamon bark and pain grillé, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2009 Ch. Ste. Michelle "Indian Wells" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($15.99 on sale - Regular $20)
This is a tasty, fruit forward young Cabernet, sourced from the Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope. It exhibits a purplish color and attractive aromas of blackberry, cherry, cassis, tobacco and dried roses. The flavors are generous, yet focused, with notes of licorice, Swiss chocolate, espresso and earthy minerla. The wine picks up semi-macerated berries, mocha and coffee bean on a plush textured back. Moderate tannins and acids make it approachable, yet would benefit from six months or more aging. 18.5/20 points.
2008 Ch. Ste. Michelle Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate ($18.99 on sale - Regular: $23)
Deep ruby colored, this offers enticing aromas of blackberry, mulberry, cherry and cassis, with scents of crushed roses and sandalwood. The flavors are deep and supple, with the minerality of the Horse Heaven Hills terroir, as well as licorice, bittersweet chocolate and cola. The penetration continues on the back with squeezed berry and currant juices, touches of mocha, dried cherries and savory herbs an spices, followed by balanced fruit acids and tannins on the finish. 18.5/20 points.
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